Rear wheel spacing troubles!

been trying out the rear caliper on the back and came across another issue!

So, this is how the caliper would sit, which is perfect, with the slot cut there where I can just weld a tab on the frame for it to slide..



but now I've come across this problem...
first, I can't use the wheel adjusters on the inside, as on the right side, as there's no space for it once the caliper is there (pic after this one):



secondly, if I push the wheel as far forward as it can go, so I assume all is straight, the frame plate doesn't seem to sit parallel to the caliper bit? meaning if I get a spacer in there it won't sit flush with the plate?



or is it a case of making a spacer that a bit of clearance and once all tighten it will be fine?

and, as I can't use the wheel adjusters on the inside, I'll have to cut the little tubing off the inside and weld a new one on the outside, but can't find anything like this adjuster?
Took the pic at the hayride, I also guess these adjusters would slot into the plate?

First, leave the caliper out of the set up and put the chain on it. Get it running true and then look at the way the axle plates are sitting. If there is something not straight fix that first.

Chances are the frame will pull in just a hair when you tighten the axle up. That may be why it looks that way?

Now assuming that is ok I would Think you could cut the l/s adjuster off the axle plate and weld it to the front on the outside as in the pix of the other bike you posted. You could also, for the sake of keep it even looking, do the same with the r/s adjuster and just make a longer r/s spacer. Moving them outside will mean you will need a longer axle though. Those outside adjusters have slots which the adjuster bolt locates into and keeps them from spinning on the axle. Some are machined with flats that sit in the axle slot. If your axle fits in the plate groove nicely then it'll work with the slots on the bolts and wont need to go in the groove.

thanks for the advice there.

yes, I'll change both sides to outside adjusters, would look silly diferent on each side. Also thought that I would need a longer axle as no way the one I have will be long enough running the adjusters on the side..

do people get a new one made I guess? or get one from a different bike to suit it?


About making sure its true... any tips on how to check that?
Sometime ago I put a level (only thing I have that I know its true) from the rear to the front sprocket and it was sitting flush on both, would this be the right way to do it?

thanks

Does the adjustment bolt come in contact with the caliper bracket?

If It does, Then your fine since the bracket will move with the axle when adjusting it. & the adjustment
bolt shouldn't interfere with the caliper bracket when everything is tighten up since it is a rigid mount.

*of course the bolt may (slightly mar the finish on the aluminum bracket) but it will not really be visible
since the bolt will be up against it.

You could also make a custom spacer that has an extended area at the rear where it would sort of wraparound
the caliper bracket so that the adjustment bolt would contact the spacer instead of the bracket.

Originally Posted by Revelator

Does the adjustment bolt come in contact with the caliper bracket?

If It does, Then your fine since the bracket will move with the axle when adjusting it. & the adjustment
bolt shouldn't interfere with the caliper bracket when everything is tighten up since it is a rigid mount.

*of course the bolt may (slightly mar the finish on the aluminum bracket) but it will not really be visible
since the bolt will be up against it.

You could also make a custom spacer that has an extended area at the rear where it would sort of wraparound
the caliper bracket so that the adjustment bolt would contact the spacer instead of the bracket.

I see what you mean there, get a spacer, between the axle plate and the caliper bracket, with a bolt threaded on it.. but that wouldnt work..

as once I pull the wheel a bit backwards, the caliper bracket in on the way of the adjuster tube, just took this pic to show what I mean.

I think my option here is to go with outside mounted adjusters....

Just weld a little piece of aluminum plate, like 1/4 or 3/8 thick right on the back of that caliper bracket.

That way the Adjustment bolt can has good contact. I think that would be easier than trying to get that Bolt
to line up with a spacer. & the Caliper moves with the axle so mission accomplished.

Unless You want to hassle making or finding a longer axle,