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machinerguy
12-12-2010, 9:14 PM
If there's an intro blog/ forum, sorry I missed it. So I bought a 65 Tiger long ago and am finaly getting around to putting it together. Any and all criticism or advice or help is more than welcome.
Basically bolt on hard tail bobber. Not a chop 'cause I ain't cutting the frame. I got an old sprnger to use which I straightened from bent. I loaned the stock frontend out for a buddy's mock-up in exchange for babysitting but it came back all fucked up! One of the not so small prices of being a single dad.
Any way I got the motor torn down to basics and removed the visible casting/ parting seams, and tried to even out the finish as best I could. Not going for full polish 'cause I wanna ride, but my model building childhood won't let me leave the uglies on the castings!
My first queation is,"If I build the engine first and it takes a while to build the rest of the bike, what precautions should I take with lubes, etc. with a fresh engine that wont be fired for at least a few months?"
Thisis my first at a lot of things and I will try to post pics as I go.
Old (my) Skool = If you didn't build it you shouldn't be riding it
.

PsYcHoBiLLyRocKeR
12-12-2010, 10:04 PM
First things first get rid of the Pink Horse, Haa Haa thats another thread.... second as long as you put the engine back together right, I would think if you keep it in a dry heated area away from moisture and get the oil circulated through it... ( I'm no Expert ) I wouldn't see any problems

LinkBelt
12-12-2010, 10:05 PM
First off the intro thread is in the main forum. Second off I am in the same boat as you just a little further out to see. I pretty much finished up my motor build and what I've done is just lube the crank to keep the rods free. I keep my motor covered in a plastic bag with a blanket over it cause there is a lot of body work that goes on in the shop I am building it in. Pics are always a plus and there is plenty of talent around here to help with just about any question you got. Anyway Good luck and PM me if you need any help or advice and I will help if I can or at least try to point you in the right direction. :cheersmate:

Stratman
12-14-2010, 9:25 AM
First off the intro thread is in the main forum. Second off I am in the same boat as you just a little further out to see. I pretty much finished up my motor build and what I've done is just lube the crank to keep the rods free. I keep my motor covered in a plastic bag with a blanket over it cause there is a lot of body work that goes on in the shop I am building it in. Pics are always a plus and there is plenty of talent around here to help with just about any question you got. Anyway Good luck and PM me if you need any help or advice and I will help if I can or at least try to point you in the right direction. :cheersmate:


Any quality assembly lube should keep her free.You DID use a moly based assembly lube on contact parts,right?

machinerguy
12-14-2010, 4:55 PM
Thanks,all!
The motor has just been torn down and is in the cleaning / checking process. My backyard playroom is now 12 degrees F so the plan is to bring it into the house for the build. I gotta make a space.
I have a tube of white molykote #105 that worked on car engines. If there's something better, I'll sure spend a few $ on it.
It was a relief to see the sludge trap damn near empty. A few small but very chunky chunks and I scrubbed it with brake cleaner, test tube brushes, and a pipe cleaner. then immediaely oiled the shiny parts.
Once a few more parts arrive, assembly will begin.

LinkBelt
12-14-2010, 6:12 PM
Any quality assembly lube should keep her free.You DID use a moly based assembly lube on contact parts,right?

Of course, I uses white lithium grease.

machinerguy
12-14-2010, 8:46 PM
Of course, I uses white lithium grease.

The lubriplate molykote stuff looks like white lithium, only thinner.

machinerguy
12-17-2010, 7:46 PM
I couldn't pull out the sludge trap tube, but it was so clean I wondered if there was even one in there. Well, there is and its gonna stay. The oil seals have arrived in the mail (thanks Stadfast) so reassembly should commence soon. This botom end shows very litle wear, but I felt it necessary to bust it down to eyeball that crud hole just to make sure.
My bud Shane from the body shop up the street gave me a 5 drawer craftsman box that will become the engine stand. Once it, the pancake compressor, and pedestal grinder / wire wheel make it into the basement, reconstruction will commence.
I've never documented anything before and hope I can pull tis off. Next post, pics.

LinkBelt
12-17-2010, 8:29 PM
woo-hoo pics we love pics. Hey bro if you are still interested in pulling that sludge trap check the tech section at Lowbrowcustoms .com that is how I pulled mine worked great. Oh yeah and +1 on free tools thats always great.

machinerguy
12-28-2010, 1:01 PM
One do-it- yourself bike engine. Some assembly required.10079
New donated tool box with engine stand welded up from scrap.10079
One mighty clean sludge trap.10082
Some of the ugly removed from cases. Cases washed and blown out three times.[ATTACH]10084

machinerguy
12-28-2010, 1:15 PM
Thanks for the hint, Linkbelt. I have Wes's video. It's great. I tried the 3/8 npt tap method, and got the impression that it would cut the end off fo the tube before it broke loose.
My regular playroom includes a very nice and useful 1956 Southbend 10K.10093
...and a not as nice but almost as useful cheap chinee mill-drill.10094
I don't want to fit engine parts in the frozen darkness that the garage becomes, so it'll get built in the basement.The future holds much running forth and back for tools.

machinerguy
12-28-2010, 4:22 PM
Trap allclosed up.10095
Out with th old in with the new.10096
Each rod bolt was a different length, so I marked them with a sharpie,10097
and crunk 'em down 'till they stretched .004 like the good book says.10098
Step 1 complete. Use green Loctite, it's all I had.10099

machinerguy
12-28-2010, 4:28 PM
Brown Permatx Aviation stuff always worked pretty well for me. It'll get squoze between the case halves unless anyone gives me good reason not to.10100
That's it for today, enjoy!

machinerguy
12-29-2010, 7:56 AM
How does she love me? Letme count the ways.
1, Case in the oven.10108
2, Bearings in freezer.10112
3. High pressure lube & bearing press on the counter.10109
4. On the kitchen table, .076 is close enough.10110
No press required. Frozen bearing slipped into hot case by hand.10111

machinerguy
01-21-2011, 6:43 PM
Cam buhings / bearings. Big end mesured .002 clearance. That works for me. Small end had .005-6. New small bearings. The book says "Tap, insert bolt, drive it out". I have no 7/8 tap, so...
I drilled relief through the bearing, made a tool for the slide hammer , and had some fun.10858

10859
Turned a "lead' into od of new brg.10860and slapped 'em in (With a little heat, homemade driver etc.)

machinerguy
01-21-2011, 7:07 PM
New brgs have .003 int. and .002 exh clearance . Half the slop of the old ones. Woo-Hoo. After sorting through various aspect of my learning curve, the moving parts fit smooth as butter. Gooed up, ready to seal.10861
For years used a bendy-beam torque wrench. Bought a new clicky-beam today just to do this job with more love than usual. Set to 20, doing case studs, clicked nice,for a few, and then, cranking, waiting for click, waiting for click, come on click,10862 GGHWAAATTHHEEFUUCGGAADDAAMJWEEZAMUTHASONOFA...
....breathe. I'll make a new one with U.S. threads.
I"ll TRY to contain myself When I return this POS "tool".

LinkBelt
01-21-2011, 7:24 PM
Man I love this thread, you are a very talented builder making you own stuff. can't wait to see more. Funny thing I just picked up a snap on torque wrench at a yard sale for 20.00 checked it and it's good. Any way keep up the good work.

machinerguy
01-21-2011, 10:08 PM
[Okay, do-it-yinzselfers (Pittsburghese) What now? I found a chunk of 5/16 Toolish stuff in the bin to make a new stud. Before the metallurgists speak up, I think this stuff will handle 20 FORQNTRQFTLBSWTF!!...
breathe.
Fifty five degrees. British. Why not 60? Because of the Higby end. I'll elaborate later.
first cut, relief.10869
second cut, lead @55 deg.10870
third cut, cuting face and angle10871
slid on a stone slip
10873[/ATTACHready to cut[ATTACH]10872

machinerguy
01-21-2011, 10:38 PM
Being a bunch of motorheads, I'm sure everyone has seen the end of a bolt. Some threads were rolled right off the end of the bar. Some were chamfered to a nice 45. Some are lathe cut. Some are rolled.
Being British, none but the best would do. They decided on a standard of "The end of a threaded bar shall be profiled nicely to a radius of twice the bolt's diameter" or some such jolly tea induced likeness to enginering's mundanity.
Here's mine.Done with a file.10876
I like Higbys on Brit scoots.But it's 3 count 'em 1,2,3 degrees f at the lathe. I'm headed for my ol' lady.
Ol' timey bolt on10874.
O'l timey springer.10875
Eyes on the Prize.

machinerguy
01-26-2011, 5:53 PM
Not only did I break a stud, I stretched another and stretched and a bolt, too. After the fact, I made the mistake of taking an untried torque wrench into battle. It has been traded for a smaller one wihch will be tested before it's used.
Now,I've always liked the look and feel of the Brit fasteners, but a A bar of 5/16 O-1 drill rod and a dozen acorn nuts will cost less than $20. I think that's the path I'll choose. Unless someone near Pittsburgh has some hardware to part with.

LinkBelt
01-26-2011, 7:45 PM
Not only did I break a stud, I stretched another and stretched and a bolt, too. After the fact, I made the mistake of taking an untried torque wrench into battle. It has been traded for a smaller one wihch will be tested before it's used.
Now,I've always liked the look and feel of the Brit fasteners, but a A bar of 5/16 O-1 drill rod and a dozen acorn nuts will cost less than $20. I think that's the path I'll choose. Unless someone near Pittsburgh has some hardware to part with.

Ha Ha, thats what I did 5/16 all thread and acorn nuts to hold the case together LOL. Great minds think alike.

CMA406
01-26-2011, 7:59 PM
Any quality assembly lube should keep her free.You DID use a moly based assembly lube on contact parts,right?

i use motor oil only on assembly, got that straight from wes whites video. put a good amount on the crank journals, and a thin coating on the cylinders and some in the piston rings, etc...

machinerguy
01-29-2011, 2:37 PM
I scored a new bolt for $1. Thanks, Ken at South Hills Welding. Since I own a lathe, I'll cut some 26 tpi studs from barstock that I already have and use the original nuts. I bent my good crowbar trying to open my wallet.
I used a light smear of assembly lube and a generous dose of 50 wt m/c oil. Today, it's Pinewood Derby cars with my sons, tonight it's new studs and some torquing.

rusjack
01-29-2011, 4:18 PM
awesome thread so far. I'm really not a fan of those click type torque wrenches, either. I'll use one of these whenever I have the option, but sometimes they are just too big / awkward to get in small spaces. The one I use has the dual needle set up too, so you can remove it and see the max torque you've gone to.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/dial-torque-wrench-bike.jpg

machinerguy
01-30-2011, 2:32 PM
Almost like I knew what I was doing.11322
All torqued, no mishaps.11323
While the cases get the rest of their innards, I need to think about the cylinder bores. Jugs are smooth and shiny, in need of a hone.11324
Pistons appear to still have the stock cast finish with some very minor scoring.11325 I made a chart of my clearances versus stock specs.11326 My engine is a TR6SR28xxx And the cyl, pistons, head, etc are from a TR6C or SC I don't remember. The .008-.012 clearance I have falls into the "TR6 Sports" tolerance, but seems awful slappy to me. The "Early" clearance calls to me because I have an early engine and it's the middle one.
What should it be , really?
The giant machine I run at work will rebore these jugs real nice. Im thinking torque plate fixture. Should I make one to replicate the head AND one to be the cases?
And finally, if I buy new +.01 or+.02 pistons, will they actually be the size i request? Naturally, no boring until pistons are in hand.

image1
02-01-2011, 9:23 AM
will they actually be the size i request? Naturally, no boring until pistons are in hand.


they will be close-ish (depending on manufacturer), but like you mentioned, not cutting till you have the ACTUAL ones in your hands.

machinerguy
04-25-2012, 5:54 PM
I'm back! Its been over a year. Well, I made the amatuer mistake of not putting the slinger / washer behind the crank pinion gear and promptly drove the gear on so far that my homemade puller wouldn't fit. Then I moved, family & all. Finally settled in enough to start back up on my Bristol Beauty.

machinerguy
04-25-2012, 6:22 PM
So I re-split the cases and banged on the crank enough to shift things to the piont that my puller would fit past the pinion. That night, I re-cleaned some stuff, put it back together, put the tranny back in, assembled the inner trans cover and most of the primary and gloated in some self indulgence. I am now waiting for the thrust washer for between the the clutch hub & basket to come in the mail from BritOnly.
I broke the ol lady's camera (drunk) so pics of the new digs, etc are pending. When I fix that situation, I'll post my FREE DIY PINION PULLER in the tech section.
I need info on the Posa Fuel carb that came with the TR6C. The only other one i've seen was in an old Street Chopper mag. This thing looks like simpliciy itself and I would love to run it! Anyone?

machinerguy
02-19-2013, 5:56 PM
Time to resurrect my build. The motor is done except for oil and valve adjustment so into the frame it went. The stock Trump fork is out and I don't have an acceptable wheel for the springer. I do however have some Sportster parts and I really like the alloy rims. So with 2 or 3 lathed up parts and a bearing set from Choppahead, she's wearing a '76 35mm narrowglide.36274C'mon, Choppahead, I'm poor but would gladly pay an extra $5 or $10 for bearings that say Timken, SKF, NSK, or anything but China.
The Brit drum bolted right onto the HD hub. The lathe popped out a drum to hub spacer, a frame to hub bearing spacer, and a nut to replace the one I unwelded from the XL axle. If anyone wants pics, I'll get them. New adjusters were made from hex bar cuz that's what I had.36273I made a proper frame mount for the ol trailer fender and some SS bits for my friend Steve at work to TIG into fender struts. My mediocre skills with the MIG managed to get mounts for the plate & taillight.
Progressing, the kickstand & f motor mount are recently posted in the Brit forum. So next, these risers just scream Harley. Can't have that and I want to run the 7/8 bars anyway.36275 I started these a while ago. 36276Time to finish. Will post pics as I go.

junkyardxl
02-19-2013, 6:03 PM
I love seeing old build threads being revived. Following

machinerguy
02-19-2013, 6:13 PM
The sharpie line on the front rim was to show where the dent was. After some vise/ lever/ wood block treatment, the dent was gone, but a second one showed up, hence the u-shaped mark. All straight now. Needs balanced. The arrow on the rear was a reminder. XL is RH drive, TR is LH drive, so flip the tire. LBS wanted $35 to flip a tire so I did it myself. If I didn't draw the arrow my dumbass would have had to do it twice.

bp131
02-19-2013, 6:50 PM
Nice to see you're back at it. What did you end up doing with the cylinders?

machinerguy
02-19-2013, 7:25 PM
I reamed the ridge off, ran a hone through them and put them together. According to The Book, piston clearance is in spec and cyls show very litte wear so wtf, I'll run 'em.

machinerguy
03-08-2013, 10:12 PM
These started out as 1" plate. A trip throuth the lathe, and now they're hangin' off the back of the mill for some 1/4-20s.36982
I guess I drilled ok, 'cause when I sawed them off, there was a clearance hole in one piece and a tapped hole in the other.36983
Match marks are important.36984
They'll bth get drilled to match the shorter one. They don't make calipers like this anymore.36985
Sometimes even American drills are ground incorrectly out of the box. This one, I reduced the relief angle and split the point by hand.36986

machinerguy
03-08-2013, 10:35 PM
36987 Pilot hole? Schmilot hole! Cuts like butter. Kerosene is the best cutting fluid for aluminum. Like the saw, the drill is a roughing tool so,36988bored to fit . About .872.
Too cheap to go to the hardware store, I'm a threadin' fool.36989
Before I finish the bolts, I gotta get my stack of mounting hardware in order. These rubber mounts have two well used cup-shaped washers (two missing?) that i'll use on the bottom after some unmangling.
On the top, I'll make some new SS washers that'll nest the risers real nice.This is the bushing end.36990
Then the saw.36991

machinerguy
03-08-2013, 10:43 PM
So I was almost there and decided to plop in front of the webs. Here's what I got.36992 Another hour or so, depending on whether I use the old nylocks or make pike nuts out of that 13/16 SS hex. I'll show it.

machinerguy
03-08-2013, 11:17 PM
While I have your attention, I wanna say ,"Thanks Cultists!" for your unmatched generosity. The knowledge, ignorance, skills, unskilled dedication, commitment, bias, heckles, praise, we are the scene. Well, shit , I thought I'd have some kind of profundity here, but all I can think of is Full Tilt Wienerdogs.

ThePete
03-09-2013, 3:06 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/09/qe7ejasy.jpg
Full Tilt Wiener Dogs!

Torch
03-09-2013, 8:44 AM
and thank you for the great build thread....

machinerguy
03-09-2013, 9:55 PM
Found some brand new fine thread nylocks in the bin and finished up the homemade parts.37019
It works!37020
Looks kinda odd with the stock tank.37021
I also have this tank.37022 Looks way better? Opinions? I'll have to cut, weld, etc to mount it. Wish I had a TIG machine.
Got some valves with 1/4-18 npt for petcocks. Should work.37023

machinerguy
03-22-2013, 7:17 PM
The blue tank looks good, but it sits too far back. So, el choppo.37402
I had trouble welding the lock hole in the neck casting, so I just drilled & tapped through for the front hole. 5 threads & loctite ought to do it.37405
Looks better..37404
Damn right I drilled a pilot hole.37406
Got interrupted to backdate an old XL case that a friend is choppin.37403

machinerguy
03-22-2013, 7:50 PM
I get "feelings" when I'm about to cut an old M/C part, but it's a chopper so wtftw? Borrowed a 3/4 hole saw.37417
Bungholio!37418
Still learning to weld, I beveled the bung but not the frame tube.
The fit-up.37419
Looked good so it got ground down and a shot of Rust-O.37420
Couple of rubber sandwich meats, and it shuold hold up. I'll probably make some top washers, too.37421

machinerguy
03-22-2013, 8:08 PM
I hear M/C chains make lousy bolt cutters, so this won't work.37423
5/16-24 are hard to find around here. Even the hardware store that has most of the oddballs I need was out. Gotta thank "You know who you are", for the bolts but still had to modify.37424
Nuts are 17 cents each anywhere.37425
They'll rust. Need paint, but Loctited in.37426
Next are seat and controls. then it's oil and wiring.

Speciman
04-07-2013, 11:46 PM
Marvel Mystery Oil is great too. I put that in one of my bikes that I just had rebult and it sat in my brother-in-laws garage for 25 years (got divorced and had no space for it) . I know, what a waste. He kicked it the first couple of years to keep it from seizing and then moved it to an outside tin shed after 5 years.. I just went there and uncovered it and pushed down on the kicker and it moved like the day I brought it there. I almost fainted but later checked the compression and it seemed ok. There are video's on you tube that rave about Marvel Mystery Oil. They show you how to coat your engine with it, how to clean rust off yopur engine with it and a number of other things. The grease is good for coating but you can't put it in your cylinders if your concern is seizing.