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View Full Version : Does this look infected????



Blacktopbandit
11-09-2010, 6:26 PM
Does this look right too you??? If it doesn't can anyone tell me if it has to be replaced and what would cause this to happen. the alternator looks melted in places.

LinkBelt
11-09-2010, 6:29 PM
nope thats not right. It is shot and would have to be replaced try the Sparx HO package you can get from Lowbrow

Torch
11-09-2010, 8:54 PM
the only thing that looks out of place is the epoxy glue or whatever is right there where the wires come in, they get frayed at that point all the time, as for the bubbles and casting marks on the plastic it all looks perfectly normal for an early stator, On the new stators the plastic casting looks much better but has no efect in the performance of the stator.
If the stator is working then it is ok, and most of the time they are either good or dead and nothing in between. But the magnet wheel (rotor) has a date code of Oct.1970 and is likely very weak, the rotor is the single thing most responsible for a good charging system.
a new stator and rotor kit costs about $200 so Why don't you buy a new $100 rotor and see if that improves the charging and if that doesn't make it better then buy a $100 stator. but never replace the stator with out also replacing the rotor. most of the time a new rotor makes all the difference.

LinkBelt
11-09-2010, 9:04 PM
The torch is more versed in Triumphs then me if he says it's good I'd believe him. I have heard that if you can take a screwdriver and lift the rotor and it stays then the rotor is good. But again more of a thing for the torch to explain.

englishbob
11-12-2010, 6:29 PM
seen one grounded backwards do that.

Gepetto
11-13-2010, 1:21 AM
There is nothing wrong with the stator, like the torch said- it's just an early one. Your primary chain looks a little bit worn out, the adjuster has quite alot of bow to it, might want to check it out since you are in there!

Blacktopbandit
11-14-2010, 10:49 AM
The entire motor is getting torn down and any bits replaced. Ordered a new stator/rotor as it was really weak when i did the lift with a screw driver test. The chain was a bit loose on the sprocket and the adjuster was worn down so that's some more new parts to be ordered. The list grows but nothing that i wasn't expecting.

cntrhub
11-14-2010, 7:40 PM
That bike looks rather well preserved. Clutch plate pressure screws are not all knackered/wallered out. I would file a large V in the center of a flat blade screwdriver, so as to sacrifice that as my clutch special tool-pressure plate remover.

Another trick is to hold the crank bolt. Now grab the magnet and watch to see if it moves on it's internal spline? This part fits over the crank's output shaft and locks there. But if you think about it, that timing mark is set at hello? See how you could adjust the points or time it at the magnet molded housing. But we want the anchored mag block to be stationary. Sometimes the mag unit is timed to wherever that wear is rather where it should be at the staked-position like when new.

cntrhub
11-14-2010, 7:45 PM
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8888&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1289753358

Look at your flat shift drum dogs. I've seen those torn up. Look at your brass push rod insert. I've seen those drop as you see it with a gap you could back a truck in. Both look decent looking in the photo. You may be buying parts you don't need.

Lookey here. if that primary was never removed, you key in both gears to chain links or you create a new chain pattern you can jump rope with the kids using your chain kind of, 'go head, make it's day." :cool:

Blacktopbandit
11-16-2010, 5:03 PM
That bike looks rather well preserved. Clutch plate pressure screws are not all knackered/wallered out. I would file a large V in the center of a flat blade screwdriver, so as to sacrifice that as my clutch special tool-pressure plate remover.

Another trick is to hold the crank bolt. Now grab the magnet and watch to see if it moves on it's internal spline? This part fits over the crank's output shaft and locks there. But if you think about it, that timing mark is set at hello? See how you could adjust the points or time it at the magnet molded housing. But we want the anchored mag block to be stationary. Sometimes the mag unit is timed to wherever that wear is rather where it should be at the staked-position like when new.

Yeah it was in pretty good nik when i bought it. it was owned by the late president of my local CVMG and wrenched on by him and another local Triumph guy. He past a few years back and it was sitting in his daughters garage for the last few years untouched. Got it for a good price and rode it as i got it last season. Gathered most of the parts i need to transform it into a sweet bobber/chopper/whatever over the summer and have started into it now that the weather has gone to shit. It's the first Triumph i've worked on so i've posted another thread for the build.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7135