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View Full Version : Kickback on shovel broke my kicker



DPipke
08-01-2017, 8:24 PM
Was getting gnarley Kickback on my kick only shovel when it was hot. Was getting puffs of smoke out my carb. After a few kickbacks I noticed gear oil leaking, I tried again anyways and of course I cracked the kicker cover right open. What would have caused this? Timing? Or carb? Would really appreciate the help. I am so choked.

Revelator
08-01-2017, 8:44 PM
I believe you need to retard the spark, classic sign of too much advance.

flywheel kick back SUCKS.
If I have My Hi-Comp stroker Pan advanced too much, It has a Hellacious
kick back. One time It kicked so hard, It bent the Shit out of the kick pedal shaft,
(& My leg) rendering it useless!

Another time the woodruff key on the kicker shaft sheared off, Good thing I have
a Baker cover, I think a stocker would have broken a long time ago.

I eventually installed a Starter, ANd now it is fucked up! So I am back to
kicking the sonofabitch.

Dragstews
08-01-2017, 8:51 PM
I can relate ....

78096

Blind man walking here ..... with a limp ..!!!

.../// https://youtu.be/divwM5bEWwk \\\...

Tattooo
08-01-2017, 9:21 PM
Timing advanced to far..........

That's why I like a cam with a lot of overlap/duration....... Cranks so easy..... It's a pleasure to ride and you don't look like a fool kicking it........ Cranks first kick every time, Hot or cold....

SamHain
08-01-2017, 9:31 PM
my buddy split his cover and case recently. Way to start the day.

Revelator
08-02-2017, 12:19 AM
Timing advanced to far..........

That's why I like a cam with a lot of overlap/duration....... Cranks so easy..... It's a pleasure to ride and you don't look like a fool kicking it........ Cranks first kick every time, Hot or cold....

I am running the lieneweber L51 on mine, (93ci) with a morris snap mag.

She is fussy! timing has to be dead nuts spot on or she will not reward. I think my mag may have some issues
with the gear set (G5 impulse) the gears seem pretty sloppy (excessive backlash). I removed the small drive gear at the end of the shaft (it was welded on), & then I shimmed it, which helped remove a little of the slop
on the shaft (up and down play), But gear mesh seems pretty loose, & a timing light strobe
will bounce quite a bit. I guess that's what I deserve for buying a used mag.

adamsmith2919
08-02-2017, 1:11 AM
I believe you need to retard the spark, classic sign of too much advance.

flywheel kick back SUCKS.
If I have My Hi-Comp stroker Pan advanced too much, It has a Hellacious
kick back. One time It kicked so hard, It bent the Shit out of the kick pedal shaft,
(& My leg) rendering it useless!

Another time the woodruff key on the kicker shaft sheared off, Good thing I have
a Baker cover, I think a stocker would have broken a long time ago.

I eventually installed a Starter, ANd now it is fucked up! So I am back to
kicking the sonofabitch.
Mens T-shirts Team 365 (http://www.spazeapparel.com/team365-tt11-mens-tee.html)

Tattooo
08-02-2017, 6:54 AM
I believe you need to retard the spark, classic sign of too much advance.

flywheel kick back SUCKS.
If I have My Hi-Comp stroker Pan advanced too much, It has a Hellacious
kick back. One time It kicked so hard, It bent the Shit out of the kick pedal shaft,
(& My leg) rendering it useless!

Another time the woodruff key on the kicker shaft sheared off, Good thing I have
a Baker cover, I think a stocker would have broken a long time ago.

I eventually installed a Starter, ANd now it is fucked up! So I am back to
kicking the sonofabitch.


Can I ask why you change the timing once you get it set right???

DPipke
08-02-2017, 7:20 AM
I have a dyna s ignition. I have the timing set almost as retarded as the plate on the ignition will allow me to go.... I followed the dyna s instructions so I don't really understand why it worked well for awhile and then suddenly was kicking back every kick. If I can't retard the ignition any more then it allows me too... then what?

farmall
08-02-2017, 8:52 AM
OPs timing is too advanced.



If I can't retard the ignition any more then it allows me too... then what?

Points, which have the advantage of very easy troubleshooting, very low cost, and availability at most US auto stores since they made millions of Chevy six bangers. They work a quarter as much on a Harley for a given RPM as they do on a V8. Not a problem.


Timing advanced to far..........

That's why I like a cam with a lot of overlap/duration....... Cranks so easy..... It's a pleasure to ride and you don't look like a fool kicking it........ Cranks first kick every time, Hot or cold....

This. Also reduces pinging with shit fuel. I like low static compression because HDs are tractors, not race cars. They were sold with low static compression in the old days for good reason.

Whoremonger
08-02-2017, 9:16 AM
Timing advanced to far..........

That's why I like a cam with a lot of overlap/duration....... Cranks so easy..... It's a pleasure to ride and you don't look like a fool kicking it........ Cranks first kick every time, Hot or cold....
Im curious as to what cam you run in your panhead? I run andrews j cams in both my pans . Both will start cold or hot ,no choke 1 kick ignition on.

Dragstews
08-02-2017, 9:54 AM
I am running the lieneweber L51 on mine, (93ci) with a morris snap mag.

She is fussy! timing has to be dead nuts spot on or she will not reward. I think my mag may have some issues
with the gear set (G5 impulse) the gears seem pretty sloppy (excessive backlash). I removed the small drive gear at the end of the shaft (it was welded on), & then I shimmed it, which helped remove a little of the slop
on the shaft (up and down play), But gear mesh seems pretty loose, & a timing light strobe
will bounce quite a bit. I guess that's what I deserve for buying a used mag.

Just bought a new G5 ....
Also the CB gear is new, running down checks for gear lash seen the same slop as your used one has....

78104

Had a chat with Morris about the slop ..
They said that the gear always has a load on it and does not bounce to and fo, said not to worry about it ....

And on that note .... I'm not going to try to tighten up the lash ...
(It is what it is and going to stay what it is) ;)

Tattooo
08-02-2017, 8:29 PM
Im curious as to what cam you run in your panhead? I run andrews j cams in both my pans . Both will start cold or hot ,no choke 1 kick ignition on.


To be honest I really don't remember... I will look back through some of my paper work to see if I have it..... But the Andrews J is a great cam....

Whoremonger
08-02-2017, 10:23 PM
Just bought a new G5 ....
Also the CB gear is new, running down checks for gear lash seen the same slop as your used one has....

78104

Had a chat with Morris about the slop ..
They said that the gear always has a load on it and does not bounce to and fo, said not to worry about it ....

And on that note .... I'm not going to try to tighten up the lash ...
(It is what it is and going to stay what it is) ;)

I have never had a bike ( except for my mini bike when I was a kid)or messed with a magneto. But if it is driven by the same gear as a stock circuit breaker I would say that the slop does make a difference. As a matter of fact I think the service manual gives a spec to stay within. I helped a friend with a stock 68 slab side that would not time for shit started VERY hard and ran like shit when it did start.The timer shaft had about 10-15* rotational slop and some vertticle slop. I corrected it buy having a .005" oversize spacer machined. The bike is now a one kicker shovel no prime kicks iggy off needed. But I also attribute the one kicker to having a j cam, and bendixcarb with accelerater pump. I did the same thing to both my pans and again ,both are 1 kickers ignition on. Gotta do some priming on the pans , both have linkerts and original 1965 auto advance timers. You know way more than I do,but that was my experience with timer slop. Hope it can be of help to someone.