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View Full Version : Honda Shadow Electrical issues HELP!!



cpeterson92
07-29-2017, 9:26 PM
So I just bought an 06 honda shadow and im trying to work out all of the electrical issues.

I was told that it was starting but when the guy would go to turn it off it would try to keep starting like it was the solenoid or the on switch. But when i get the bike it wont turn on. When i try to crank it, it wont turn over just the oil light comes on on the speedometer and thats it. None of the neutral lights or anything else will come on. So i started taking it apart and testing the solenoid and such and it seems that the solenoid is good. I left my multimeter at work and i didnt wanna use a cheap multimeter so ive been troubleshooting it with a test light. when i put the light on the solenoid i have power before i turn on the key but as soon as i turn the key the light dims to almost nothing. So i traced the wires back to the left hand controls. (signals, headlight, horn, etc.) I called the previous owner and he said he had that replaced because it had a short so all that wiring was new. But it doesnt seem like the short was fixed because when i unplug the connector going to all that the test light doesnt dim when the key is turned over. So i started trying to eleminate things. When i unplug the headlight the test light doesnt dim as much. Its a very light dim if any at all. Of course i plugged back in that white connector at that point. But while all this is going on, none of the "console" lights are coming on. Being the neutral lights and such. So i try to start it again and nothing. also the signals are super dim and wired oppositely it seems. This is where im at and stopped investigating for the night. I need some pointers and some help!

cpeterson92
07-29-2017, 11:00 PM
been thinking about it and after cooling off and such i think its gonna be a bad ground or a weak battery so ill check that in the morning and hopefully its one of the two.

cpeterson92
07-30-2017, 2:38 PM
Ok so i think i narrowed it down to the neutral switch or oil pressure switch.
Got the bike to start with a fully charged battery. But an hour later nothing. So when i wiggle the wires to those two switches the neutral light flickers a little. And its like the bike doesnt have enough power to crank over. Maybe a loose ground at the neutral switch?

Tattooo
07-30-2017, 3:34 PM
And its like the bike doesnt have enough power to crank over. Maybe a loose ground at the neutral switch?

It could also be a bad starter or starter switch/button......

BUT the first thing you need to fix is all the loose wires you say you move and lights flicker........

farmall
07-30-2017, 5:38 PM
Check Shadow forums and the Carl Salter site for a downloadable manual if you don't have one since you need an accurate schematic.

As Tatooo notes, check all wires. I suggest getting tube of dielectric tune up grease to spooge in any plugs you disconnect for troubleshooting and be CAREFUL with old Honda plugs. Tease 'em apart, don't yank. Not only will the grease protect your plugs pin and socket connectors from moisture or oil by displacing them but it will make them much easier to disconnect in the future.

After fixing the wires and verifying all battery cables and grounds are good then you can proceed with more troubleshooting.

Charge the battery to proper resting voltage off the bike and check it with a meter.

You can always use a test lead (make a variety, you know the drill since ya use a meter at work) to put power to the small terminal on the solenoid to try for starter rotation. If no workee, jump the large terminals briefly (I use a screwdriver) to see if motor spins. Noids must pass enough current for a start, clicking just means they click and continuity doesn't always mean they'll pass enough amps.

Does the bike still have a sidestand kill switch? I hate those fuckers and bypass them. Always check the wiring on those too.

I just work my way back from motor to solenoid to starting switch circuit same as a car or truck.

Never jump from a running car because da tender little bike regulator will try to control the car output. Otherwise any large enough 12 volt battery will do.

Elimination is good and that's what I do. You can pull fuses to take out suspect circuits then concentrate on start and ignition.

Ebay abounds with bare crimp terminal lugs by the bag or box and heat shrink tubing to cover them. The heavy plastic sleeve shit at the auto store works OK but I hold those over a flame then pull off the sleeves with needlenose pliers and discard them.

Get good crimpers. Good wiring supplies will make you smile. Shitty ones will make you want to twist the heads off kittens.

You can do minimalist wiring on Hondas like anything else if the wiring harness pisses you off, but don't hack up the stocker because they are nice for reference.

cpeterson92
07-30-2017, 7:56 PM
Alright so i know its not a bad starter or switch. I got a battery charger and charged it up all the way. It starts right up now with no issues. I got all the loose connections taken care of.

I was hooking up some led tail lights. Any suggestions on staying away from them just let me know. The battery drained while i was doing that so i hooked it back up the charger.

Now i wasnt sure if it was a parasitic short that caused it to drain or my fault. So just to be safe i tested that out.

I put the meter in line with the battery and it was reading .08. Im not sure if thats normal or not. So i started pulling fuses to see if i could isolate the problem circuit and the voltage didnt change through any of that. So thats kinda where im at.

I started it up about 2 or 3 hours to see if it had drained byt it started right up like a dream. So im gonna try to start it up tomorrow and hopefully it held the charge.

To bypass the kickstand switch do i just need to loop the wires?
I have the manual and schematic for the bike.

Before i start getting into adding electrical and rewiring the whole bike and such i need to get more comfortable around automotive electrical. See im an electrician so i know the concept but this is all a pretty new venture to me.

Im hoping that the voltage is good and that it was a technician error that the battery was drained but we shall see tomorrow afternoon!

farmall
07-30-2017, 8:18 PM
To bypass the kickstand switch do i just need to loop the wires?

"Loop" has no meaning in this context. You need to connect the two wires permanently in a waterproof manner.

A crimped bare butt splice covered with heat shrink tubing is how I do them. Location and how much of the wire you choose to get rid of is up to you. You can also put heat shrink over one of the fugly auto store splices without removing the sleeve if you have to.

Being a sparky you'll do fine. Basic theory of operation for starters, alternators, relays and switches as used on bikes is easy to find on the net, and if in doubt, ask here.

Your electrical supplier or local Fastenal etc often has the right connectors and the best polyurethane, adhesive lined heat shrink but common heat shrink is fine.

cpeterson92
07-30-2017, 8:30 PM
Alright i got it.

Ill probably end up doing that later this week.

What overwhelmed me the most was all the wires but having the schemayic really helps and simplifies it all.

Its just a lot more wiring than what i had imagined. Eventually im sure ill rewire the whole bike so theres no unnecessary wiring for me to try to tuck away.

Tattooo
07-31-2017, 8:01 AM
Unhook the battery while your not working on it..... It sounds like you have a dead short...........

cpeterson92
07-31-2017, 8:25 AM
Would messing with the tail lights with the power on the whole time cause the battery yo drain?

Also do you think it could be a direct short if it starts 24 hours after i put a fully charged battery on it?

Im trying to isolate the short if there is one. Would .09 volts really be a short though?

Tattooo
07-31-2017, 8:31 AM
Would messing with the tail lights with the power on the whole time cause the battery yo drain?

Also do you think it could be a direct short if it starts 24 hours after i put a fully charged battery on it?

Im trying to isolate the short if there is one. Would .09 volts really be a short though?

Sorry I read it wrong..... I thought you said it drained down in 2 to 3 hours..... No you should be ok.... But until your sure you have the wiring figured out I wouldn't leave it hooked up... At leave not for now....

No .09 is not really a short well kinda..... But it will kill an ok battery.......

cpeterson92
07-31-2017, 9:36 AM
I mean i pulled each fuse one by one with the tester in line with the battery and the voltage stayed right there at .09 so if theres a short it would have to be before the fuse box correct?

Tattooo
07-31-2017, 11:16 AM
I mean i pulled each fuse one by one with the tester in line with the battery and the voltage stayed right there at .09 so if theres a short it would have to be before the fuse box correct?

Yep if all the wires go to the fuse box that's got to be it....

cpeterson92
07-31-2017, 11:30 AM
Alright ill check all that out later this week

cpeterson92
07-31-2017, 8:54 PM
So like i previously stated, i had left the battery on the bike to see if it would still drain and it did.

When i got home from work i tried to start it and it was like the power just slowly drained away. It tried to start but had too weak of a charge.

So i started troubleshooting again with my meter in line with the battery and what not. I tried taking loose connectors to see if the .09 would drop so i could isolate the issue. Well when i disconnected the regulator rectifier the voltage dissappeared.

So i started thinking about it and was thinking that voltage is normal. Because doesnt the regulator rectifier transfer energy to send yo the battery? I tested the terminals going to the stator from the rr and it checked out good.

So now i think its just a bad battery.
Any thoughts?
I charged it up and it took about 2-3 hours to get to full charge from 80% on a 3a charger. Seemed kinda slow to me.

I was gonna leave it off the trickle charger all night and see if it holds the charge by tomorrow evening.

Tattooo
08-01-2017, 7:20 AM
When you get the battery charged unhook it and leave it over night... Then check it in the morning to see if it's still charged.... With no draw at all....

2 to 3 hours isn't that long to charge a battery....

cpeterson92
08-01-2017, 10:34 AM
Alright yeah thats what i did im gonna check it this evening and see what happens.

Tattooo
08-01-2017, 12:16 PM
Alright yeah thats what i did im gonna check it this evening and see what happens.

There ya go.... I bet your battery will be dead.... The draw you have no more than it is shouldn't kill a battery so soon if it's a good battery... But we shall see?????

cpeterson92
08-01-2017, 3:37 PM
Yeah man im hoping its the battery. Ive been all through that bike already.

cpeterson92
08-01-2017, 4:51 PM
Alright i got home today and i put my meter on the battery and it read 12.28 but when i put it on the bike to start it i got nothing. Not even a weak crank.

So i plugged it into the charger and it was at 57%. So at this point im pretty sure it was the battery.

Ill go buy one tonight and pray to god that everything is good to go!

Tattooo
08-01-2017, 5:05 PM
Alright i got home today and i put my meter on the battery and it read 12.28 but when i put it on the bike to start it i got nothing. Not even a weak crank.

So i plugged it into the charger and it was at 57%. So at this point im pretty sure it was the battery.

Ill go buy one tonight and pray to god that everything is good to go!

Just like I thought your battery is shit........ Don't buy the cheapest battery buy a good one...... Batteries plus sells a good one if you have they where you live....

Good luck......

cpeterson92
08-01-2017, 5:19 PM
Yeah thanks for the help!

I just bought this bike and im trying to work out all of the bugs.

Ill be going today to get one for sure!👍

Tattooo
08-01-2017, 5:22 PM
Yeah thanks for the help!

I just bought this bike and im trying to work out all of the bugs.

Ill be going today to get one for sure!��

It sounds like you going the right direction...... Let us know how it does..... Good luck.........

We are here to help.......

cpeterson92
08-05-2017, 7:17 PM
So i put the new battery on fully charged and nothin
The lights dimmed when i hit the button so i know its sending power to the relay to start up.

I opened up the wiring harness to test continuity on all the wires to the relay and everything checked out.

No clicking in the relay when i hit the button.
No continuity in the relay with the battery attached.
I even tried wiring the battery to the relay terminals and nothing. No click.

So my best guess is the starter relay.
I believe it needs to be replaced, so i guess ill try that next.

Advice comments and concerns are highly appreciated..

Tattooo
08-05-2017, 7:25 PM
No clicking in the relay when i hit the button.
No continuity in the relay with the battery attached.
I even tried wiring the battery to the relay terminals and nothing. No click.

So my best guess is the starter relay.
I believe it needs to be replaced, so i guess ill try that next.

Advice comments and concerns are highly appreciated..


Well since you want comments I guess I will go back to my first post..........


It could also be a bad starter or starter switch/button......

BUT the first thing you need to fix is all the loose wires you say you move and lights flicker........

And your response was....


Alright so i know its not a bad starter or switch.

cpeterson92
08-05-2017, 7:39 PM
You're calling the starter switch the relay?

If so yeah i misunderstood that.
I was thinking you meant the switch button by the throttle.

Honestly at first i didnt think it was the relay because i had it starting before.

But as of now it looks like you were right lol

Tattooo
08-05-2017, 7:44 PM
You're calling the starter switch the relay?


Remember I said starter switch/button??? I guess I should have added commas.... Sorry

What I was saying it was in the starter system..... Without being there looking at the bike it's hard to tell.... LOL Look at it this way..... Working/helping people work on bikes on a computer is like working on them with your eyes closed.... This shit is harder than you think.......... LOL

cpeterson92
08-05-2017, 7:56 PM
Ha i thought you were refering to switch and button as the same thing.
As if you were talking about a bad start button. See how that could be confusing? Lol

Yeah i see where you're coming from as if you were working with your eyes closed.

I really appreciate the effort to help though. I hope that the relay solves the problem. Ill post pictures on here when i get it up and running.

But be prepared if this doesnt solve the issue lol if this isnt it yhen its gotta be something in the wiring and at that ooint ill totally open the whole wiring harness and go through it.

Tattooo
08-06-2017, 7:42 AM
But be prepared if this doesnt solve the issue lol if this isnt it yhen its gotta be something in the wiring and at that ooint ill totally open the whole wiring harness and go through it.

I'll be here to help all I can.... But remember in a previous post of mine... Be sure that all the wires are tight and I will also add that the grounds are clean and making good contact.... Good luck...