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Jfuller
07-23-2017, 10:56 AM
I got a Morris mag on my bike, everything is set right as far as timing. The issue I'm having is the kill stud is grounded all the time. Pulled the mag apart, and the wire off the condenser is grounded 100% of the time, even when not connected to anything (condenser just sitting in its clamp in the mag) as well as the coil wire. So as far as I can tell, the kill stud on my mag is grounded all the time. Brand new magneto, the bike has never been fired up since the mag was installed. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Jfuller
07-23-2017, 10:57 AM
I should clarify: the condenser wire as well as the coil wire are grounded all the time. And they are daisy chained together inside the mag from the factory.

tzienlee
07-23-2017, 12:50 PM
if you set a multi meter for continuity,
put one end on the motor and the other end on the post on the Magneto.
it will show a ground, .....its not , it's just how it works,
when you push the kill button or clip it shorts out the mag and stops it.
So your mag might not be grounded,....... just looks like it,...
mags also wont spark less both plugs are shorted together and then held to the head or wherever your testing the spark,... if you did it one at a time ,..it wont spark..

Revelator
07-24-2017, 11:19 AM
the grounding post on the mag should have a plastic insulating sleeve/bushing surrounding
it to prevent it from shorting to ground. This insulator is typically a clear
or translucent color, so it may be hard to tell if you are just glancing at it.
so You may just think it is grounded to the mag housing.

Jfuller
07-24-2017, 11:41 AM
if you set a multi meter for continuity,
put one end on the motor and the other end on the post on the Magneto.
it will show a ground, .....its not , it's just how it works,
when you push the kill button or clip it shorts out the mag and stops it.
So your mag might not be grounded,....... just looks like it,...
mags also wont spark less both plugs are shorted together and then held to the head or wherever your testing the spark,... if you did it one at a time ,..it wont spark..

I was using a power probe to check for ground, and it's constantly showing ground at the wire coming out of the coil and the wire coming out of the regulator though with the points open or closed. I tested the wire that goes to the kill stud by itself (still going through the insulator on the mag body) and it was not grounding through the insulator. Should the wire coming from the coil show ground even when not connected to anything? (Other than the coils being in the mag body) as well as the condenser? I was also testing for spark with an inline spark tester, so I'm not sure if that's gonna make any difference?

tzienlee
07-24-2017, 1:44 PM
even if there is no kill wire going to the grounding stud & you put a meter on it & to the motor it will show grounded , but it isn't,.. just the way they are wired......
to test for spark,... either with the cap off,.. hold the mag in one hand with two fingers touching the coil springs and spin the drive by hand, you will feel it if its working... other way is to hold magneto in a vice (gently so it doesn't get marked up !).
use a cable tie and secure the two spark plugs together with the leads all set in the cap, as if its on the bike)....
attach a drill to the straight part on the bottom bit of the drive gear ,
with the right direction selected on the drill (as you hold the drill away from you it should turn anti clockwise,)
gently spin the mag and with insulated pliers hold both spark plugs onto the magneto body and you should see nice blue sparks,...
gotta be done with both plugs or it wont spark,.. nature of the beast.. ..

FredoSNR
07-24-2017, 2:56 PM
It is only a tiny change in resistance that is the difference between running and grounded, the meter/probe is indifferent to this and will beep continuity either way.

Pull the mag and put it in a vice with a drill on the bottom. Take the spark plugs attached to the wires and hold them to the mag body. They should spark like hell if it is working right. Ignore the continuity meter for a second, if it is sparking like that, then you have no issue at all. If it is not sparking, change the condenser and try again. Mine will say that the is a short with the meter and work fine. If this is your first time installing a magneto, you need to time and retime it like 5 times before you may get some love from it. After that you kind of just know if it is there or not.

Jfuller
08-21-2017, 9:56 AM
Alright, this thing absolutely has me at my wits end. I have times this mag about 60 times and haven't been able to get anything from it. I rebuilt the carb, as well as changed the condenser in the mag. I have switched to the kill lever on the mag to eliminate the possibility of a bad switch or any bad wiring. I have the magneto timed on the correct timing mark on the correct stroke, using the morris mag timing tool. When the mag is retarded towards the front head, the tool beeps and as soon as it is moved outward the beeping stops. (Points opening I believe.) which is correct as far as I know? I have run out of ideas as well as tried to get ahold of anyone that will even touch this bike at a shop to make sure I haven't missed anything stupid and no shop will touch it due to it being kick only. The only thing I have not done yet is changed spark plugs which I have ordered a new set and they should be in this week. I don't know how changing to a magneto has turned my bike into a direct product of the devil that refuses to cooperate with me in any fashion. It has been down almost 9 months at this point, and I haven't even gotten to go up and down the block or check and see if my lights work. Frustration has set in. I'm not sure if I'm looking for help fixing this bike or looking for someone with a boat to help me drop it in the ocean so it can't infect anyone else's life anymore.

tzienlee
08-21-2017, 2:34 PM
it sounds like you are retarding the mag the wrong direction if I read you right.
looking from on top of the magneto, to advance you turn it anti-clockwise....... and to retard for starting you turn it clockwise
(as in the drawing below).....
when the light goes ON (beep's) is when the points are just opening (At Full advance) not closing,
(at least it is with my mag timing box which is not a Morris item but works the same but with a light instead of a buzzer).

Jfuller
08-21-2017, 4:41 PM
With the magneto clocked outward from the motor (clockwise) the points are closed, when I move it counter clockwise for starting, the points should be open, correct?

Tattooo
08-21-2017, 5:00 PM
With the magneto clocked outward from the motor (clockwise) the points are closed, when I move it counter clockwise for starting, the points should be open, correct?

I didn't see where anyone asked what kind of bike....

tzienlee
08-21-2017, 5:53 PM
With the magneto clocked outward from the motor (clockwise) the points are closed, when I move it counter clockwise for starting, the points should be open, correct?

WRONG...... the points cam (viewed from above) rotates clockwise.

so to advance from a retarded position (open points earlier) you rotate the Magneto body (& therefore the points) anti clockwise (viewed from above).into the path of the oncoming cam.

to retard you turn the magneto body (& Therefore the points clockwise) so the cam gets to open the points later (Retarded) away from the oncoming cam.

the points, when set at full advance should just about to open,
at the point they open the magneto timing tool will either buzz or the light will come on depending on which timing tool you use.
that is the full advance setting.
to retard it for starting you then rotate the magneto body (as seen from above) Clockwise until you get to your chosen retard point.
if when you turn the magneto body anti-clockwise & the buzzing or light goes out it sounds like you are way too far advanced and you are in fact at the point that the points are closing, NOT opening.

FredoSNR
09-04-2017, 1:32 PM
Pull the mag and put it in a vice with a drill on the bottom.

Have you done this yet? You can use a shop towl to spin the gear quickly if you dont have a drill with a chuck. If you come down to LA I will help you with it, assuming it is a genny, I have no experience with the cone setups.

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If you are not sparking like this there is an issue with the mag. What carb are you running? Does it have an accelerator pump? Has the motor been run or fresh rebuild?

Blackbetty
09-05-2017, 8:14 AM
What model morris is it, and by new, do you mean you bought it from morris or from someone who said it was new

I just finished installing an MM74L on my cone and I could not be happier, I can walk you through it. If the buzzbox is working then your kill stud has to be functioning correctly.

Jfuller
09-11-2017, 7:09 PM
I finally got it started up 2 weeks ago, and took it for a ride two days ago. The problem was the flywheel markings on my bike. Nobody knew exactly what timing mark to use, but I have aftermarket flywheels. Once I got that figured out she runs like a top! I got a little bit more carb tuning to do, and a couple other small things to fix and it will be roadworthy. Thank you guys for all the help! I would have never gotten it running if it wasn't for you folks on here. But the magneto was brand new purchased direct from Morris, and the shovelhead motor was rebuilt about 4K miles ago.

For anyone thinking about going to a Morris setup on their bike, just DO IT. They're a pain in the ass to get running right, but they're easy to start and I have FAR more confidence in this setup over the old setup. I got mine running with the knowledge provided on here, and deciding my bike was going to fire up one way or the other. No shop would touch my bike with it being a now mag fired kick only bike, and Folks told me it would never fire up unless I got lucky, and it's pointless for anything ever unless you're building a race bike. Well, my bike fires up in 2-3 kicks every time, and the ignition works PERFECT. No issues with broken legs (yet) and no issues with starting at all once it's dialed in.