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View Full Version : 79 shovelhead 80ci. Does after 7 min. Help!



SmittyWebbJohnson
07-05-2017, 6:43 PM
Ok so to start i have a 79 harley shovelhead. With an s&s super b carb. timing is adjusted accordingly, new battery, fuel flow is good, sparks are good. Now it starts great, with electric starter, but it dies after 7 min. Yes gas is ON. I notice that the idle gradually goes down and then dies. It seems like it smokes from the carb after it dies for about 30 sec. I did notice that there is a slight hiss/scrape sound that can be heard with the rpms over the exhaust, kinda gets worse as engine starts to die. Which makes me believe that it could be i didnt adjust the valves properly ( youtube), the carb itself (jets or something) or it could be a worse issue such as a bad piston ring in the front cyl. Which would suck! Im losing my mind tinkering and just wanna ride the damn thing. Please help, thanks. Oh also it will start right back up, but die sooner.

47str8leg
07-05-2017, 8:21 PM
Hydraulic or solid lifters ? Was it running before any adjustments were made ? Will it continue to run with a slight rev or die regardless ?

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-05-2017, 8:26 PM
Solid lifters, im gonna loosen them up a little tomorrow to see if it helps with the noise aspect. Had them to the point were i could still move them with my fingers. And not long, i had to replace the battery. But I can rev it no problems. But when it starts to die and i roll on to give it gas, rpms will go up but engine is still set on dying

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-05-2017, 8:28 PM
Even when i crank the engine slowly with the kick start you can hear the slight scraping hiss noise, my guess is that its lifters or piston rings (hopefully not)

47str8leg
07-05-2017, 8:55 PM
If it's the lifters it would probably knock or here a clang sound not a scrape or hiss. Too tight and it will hang up a valve , too loose or worn or broken rollers and it would bang up and down .
A hiss and smoke out the carb could be from a hung up valve but not a scraping sound.
Could be seizing up and dying out.

Revelator
07-06-2017, 12:48 AM
check inside of oil tank to make sure oil pump is pumping oil
to the engine. there should be tiny air bubbles in the oil.

Check engine compression and / or leak down test.

tzienlee
07-06-2017, 4:07 AM
when its slowing down try taking the gas cap off & see if it picks up,...
it could be a blocked cap vent that is starving you of fuel,
even the hissing noise sounds like its trying to normalise air pressure in somewhere....

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 5:42 AM
I had the gas caps off bc i thought the same thing. The oil returns to the top if the oil tank, recently rebuilt the oil pump. Ill check the valves and get back to you guys. Ill also check the bowl if the carb. Thanks for the input

Sky
07-06-2017, 6:25 AM
What kind of ignition?
Why were you tinkering in the first place? Regular maintenance or what?

53rigid
07-06-2017, 6:46 AM
I had an ironhead sporty do almost the same thing. Turns out it was a bent valve stem so when things got hot, it tightened up and stopped the motor. I would adjust the valves on the side of the road and it would go a little while longer then I would have to adjust them again. That scraping sound could be the bent valve going through the guide.....

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 4:09 PM
Dyna s single ingition sensor with cam lobe. And has single coil dont know if its dyna though.... no markings might be stock. And tinkering with it bc recently inherited it from my father, trying to bring it back to life, after new battery and sparks it started up, then redid the oil pump due to oil coming out of the breather. Also adjusted the timing and valves.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 4:10 PM
https://youtu.be/2MAnKfO5OCQ heres a video to show what im working with. Ill post one of it running tomorrow..

tzienlee
07-06-2017, 5:10 PM
just watched the youtube film of it,... one question,.... does it make the noise with the plugs out ??... I ask as to me it almost sounds like a blown head gasket,... if the noise goes with the plugs out it would also point to that...????

ManicMechanic
07-06-2017, 5:56 PM
Sounds like broken piston rings scraping the cylinder wall. Take the plugs out and shine a torch down the hole and see what the bores look like or better yet....Gaskets are cheap. Just pull the head and cylinder and have a look.

Is that sound there on every rotation? If so then its not bent valves.

I don't think its the head gasket either as I cant seen any obvious sings of a leak in the video you posted but worth double checking. See if there is any oil weeping from the gasket mating surface.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 6:04 PM
It still makes the noise with the spark plugs out... so what your suggesting is new head gasket? Would that be why it would die afeter a certian time you think?

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 6:12 PM
No oil leaking from the mating sufaces on the engine.. and IS on every rotation.. so would you say from the piston rings scraping along the cylinder walls, and when they heat up and expand causes the engine to slowly sieze up or loss of motion for the pistons? It makes sense. Like i said it does start up right after its been running for a while, but dies within 30 seconds... could be bc everything is warmed up though. Would like more input before completely pulling apart the engine. Thanks for the comments so far!

ManicMechanic
07-06-2017, 6:17 PM
Nope...no spark plug means no compression so its not likely to be the sound of gas leaking past the gasket.

I watched the vid again and it really sounds metallic which makes me think its broken piston rings.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 6:17 PM
It also does sound like the scraping, and ticking noise from around the crankshaft area gets slightly progressively worse before dying.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 6:20 PM
So would that cause the engine to die when it heats up? I just want to make sure itll run and stay running before spending hundreds of $'s. Yes it wouldnt hurt to rebuild the engine on the project bike also.

ManicMechanic
07-06-2017, 6:27 PM
Absolutely. Broken rings means loss of compression which would cause the engine to stall. If it is the rings then you don't need to rebuild the whole engine just the top end.

Did you look down the spark plug hole? Do the cylinder walls look scored?

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 6:34 PM
You said look with a torch?? No havent looked yet. Idk if i hav a bright enough flashlight for that small hole haha. But makes perfect sense. It still does no matter if i roll on the throttle as well. Ill take her apart and get back to yall on the results. Might take me a week or so, along wirh treating the wife with "getting her nails done" to get some garage time haha. But ill be sure to post a vid. Of it running before, one of the rings, and after. Now id imagine id have to get it bored out a little, meaning upgraded or wider pistons and or rings, any suggestions?

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 6:41 PM
It still dies* not does.

ManicMechanic
07-06-2017, 6:45 PM
Yeah check the bores by shining a torch down the plug hole. Do that first before you take it apart. If you see a scored cylinder then you have your answer. If the cylinder looks clean then we'll have to investigate further although I don't know what else you could check without opening it up.

Hahaha always gotta treat the wife first.

farmall
07-06-2017, 7:02 PM
What does your compression test or leakdown test show?

Even if you are sure you know what's wrong, test. It would certainly reveal broken rings, but you may have more than one problem.

Assumption is the mother of all fuckups. Test, measure, KNOW.

If you do a ring job do the valves while the top end is off, and thoroughly inspect the bottom end per your factory service manual.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-06-2017, 7:05 PM
Never did a compression or leakdown test before. But will be sure to look it up and do it before doing any ovehaul, thanks!

farmall
07-06-2017, 7:13 PM
The purpose of testing is to diagnose your current problem. Compression testers are cheap at most auto stores. Fewer stock leakdown testers (you also need compressed air to run those) but you can get them online.

Perform your compression test cold, throttle (and choke if you have one) wide open. Kick or spin the starter until guage pressure stops increasing. Remove both spark plugs for the test to reduce drag on the starter or your foot if kicking.

CHECK FOR SPARK after the engine dies. Your coil could be dying as it gets warm but spark OK cold.

I use two spark plugs tack welded together but you can use a rubber band to hold them. Your coil fires pole to pole so connecting the plug shells fires the spark across both gaps as it does when they are installed.

You need to slow down and not get antsy about taking stuff apart. Do check the valve adjustment and loosen if needed.

Sky
07-06-2017, 9:24 PM
Bike sits, pukes oil, so you jump the gun and rebuild the oil pump.
Did you check for oil return before and especially after you went through the pump?
Did it make the noise before the pump shenanigans?
Have you checked the tappet screen recently?

Has a (maybe) metal on metal sound when cold, so you let it idle till it stops running. Maybe not the best idea...
Or are you playing with or whacking the throttle?
Air cooled motors need more than stationary air...

Are the advance weights free moving and spring back?
Single pickup = dual fire fyi

Red neck leakdown...
Pull the air cleaner, sparkplugs, timing plug/oilcap and pushrods. Add compressed air, listen for leaks.
Listen at carb throat (wot), at the exhaust, timing plug or oil tank, head gasket.

Not trying to be a dick, just comes natural

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-07-2017, 4:23 PM
Thanks for the comments, 1st thing, dont have an air compressor, in military so startong my own tool collection, cant affoed that yet. BUT dont mind getting my hands dirty and have machanical common sense. So i pulled the carb, exhausts, and sparks and still makes scraping sound..sounds like mostly front cylinder. And yes my sparks are still good after it does, checked voltometer and even starts right back up, but dies quicker once warm. So i am going to proceed woth taking the top end off, and get it bored. Any suggestions on bore size factory and what i should have a shop bore it to? Again thanks for the inputs! And going to do it straight by the owners manual.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-07-2017, 4:24 PM
Sorry for not testing, id rather take it apart and search for a visual problem and 100% know whats wrong and im leaning torwards piston rings or valves.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-07-2017, 4:26 PM
Also to answer sky, it was noy returning before rebuilding the oil pump, now it is after. Think it was the relief check ball stick.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-07-2017, 4:27 PM
Also any tips, suggestions, or things i should be extra careful for while removing the top end would be appreciated. Thanks

Sky
07-08-2017, 6:15 AM
Diagnosis before disassembly prevents you from missing something that might not be seen by eye alone.
And it can help you know where to look.

Pump checkball isn't part of the return circuit...

But do let us know what you find.

farmall
07-09-2017, 7:58 AM
The military way is test before teardown. Former Bronco, Phantom and Viper avionics, engine weenie and crew dog here.

You can't always see everything. You'll need to measure as well as visually inspect. Follow the factory manual thoroughly. Be slow and precise. AssUme nothing.

No air compressor just means no leakdown test. You can still use a cheap compression tester, and you should own one so you can take readings after you put it back together (AssUming it's already apart by now).

Have the top end job have the machining done by someone with Shovelhead experience, and that is not most automotive machine shops. Freight is cheaper then redoing a mismachined top end and shipping/packing services are common near base. Dragstews does some sexy work.

BTW a small pancake compressor can fit in a barracks locker (I managed 1-1/2 Ironheads worth of parts in mine) and you do need a way to blow shit out. Cans of carb cleaner only go so far.

SmittyWebbJohnson
07-09-2017, 9:55 AM
I live off base, but am looking into buying an air compressor anyway. If not will definately get a tester. Theres a machine shop that is pretty good so i hear out here, its roughly 100$ to have them bore out anything. They also fabricate. One question though, when buying parts such as pistons or piston rings, does the .010 or .030 mean that much bigger than stock measurements? Also going to buy all new gaskets, and thuroughly clean. Also going straight off the manual no need to worry as much jaha heres a vid. On what i found.. safe to say piston rings??
https://youtu.be/EJa-YgzSUp0

nmaineron
07-09-2017, 11:36 AM
Your squeaking sound follows the rotation of the motor it may be that your pushrod is scraping on the inside of the tube,most likely the exhaust on the front cylinder.If it is scraping and you have aluminum pushrods you should check the tappet screen for debris.

For the the motor quitting,I once had a very similar issue that stumped me, it turned out to be the petcock was not turning on all the way and just letting enough fuel to pass to do exactly what your experiencing.

As for going over sized on the cylinders,normally your machinist will tell you what you need for a fit.If you have a broken ring a general clean up may not be an option,He will clean it up to get a true bore and then size it for the piston needed.

farmall
07-09-2017, 2:51 PM
If the rings are done the bore is worn. While it's possible and frequently done in the old days by poor folks, a ring job on a worn cylinder is only a short term fix at best. Rings and glaze breaking don't fix worn and tapered bores.

Let your machinist, with factory service manual in hand, determine what you need. You can buy basic stuff like an overhaul gasket and seal kit but avoid the common mistake of thinking you can figure out what you need without the right measuring tools. Have your machinist inspect the valves and guides. I do a valve job as a rule when ever I do a top end job.

For my most recent bore job I brought my manual to my machinist, (who normally builds drag car engines and knows his shit) then had him measure my bores with his dial bore gauge. Standard bore mics aren't sufficient and don't effectively measure cylinder taper or out-of-round. I ordered the parts and brought them to him.

Also fuck high compression. Lower static compression ratios make for easy starting and tolerate shitty fuel. That's why 1950s Harleys ran them.

Before spending money, ensure the bottom end and wrist pin bushings are good to go! It's not a bad idea to pull the engine since the top end will be off anyway because it isn't much more work, and then you can carry the bottom end to your shop easily.

If everything's worn beyond limits or right at the edge you may choose to upgrade with an S&S kit etc. Dragstews advice and posts on that subject are worth reading.

Doni
07-14-2017, 1:41 PM
I had a very similar problem with my old 70 Shovelhead. I discovered on tear down the the piston pin retainer had popped off allowing the piston pin to walk. It hit the cylinder and wore an oval shaped groove in the cylinder wall. I bought a new cylinder and piston and repaired it only to have it happen again in a months time. It turned out that my 3 oil hole crank pin was tore up with a groove worn into it. On rotation of the motor the one rod would thrust to the side when it encountered the groove which was half way around the crank pin, this caused the piston pin to pop off. I would guess it was caused by bad heat treating of an import Jap crap crank pin. Anyway a complete tear down and rebuild with a quality crank pin and bearing set solved the problem.

Tattooo
07-14-2017, 1:56 PM
I had a very similar problem with my old 70 Shovelhead. I discovered on tear down the the piston pin retainer had popped off allowing the piston pin to walk. It hit the cylinder and wore an oval shaped groove in the cylinder wall. I bought a new cylinder and piston and repaired it only to have it happen again in a months time. It turned out that my 3 oil hole crank pin was tore up with a groove worn into it. On rotation of the motor the one rod would thrust to the side when it encountered the groove which was half way around the crank pin, this caused the piston pin to pop off. I would guess it was caused by bad heat treating of an import Jap crap crank pin. Anyway a complete tear down and rebuild with a quality crank pin and bearing set solved the problem.

Anytime your motor spits out a wrist pin you should always tear down the motor...... No exceptions............ Don't put it back together it's a waste of money......It's always either a bent rod or the crank pin is worn.......

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-06-2017, 8:44 PM
Back at it! thanks for the input. I took it to my machinist and bored out the cylinders, found out my engine is actually a 74 ci (1200cc). So got it all assembled yesterday, new pistons, rings and gaskets, also replaced the oil tappet screen. Adjusted the timing and valve lifters again upon assembly. Started up, no scraping noise. Do get a slight hiss from the front exhaust ( the mount is shit, causing exhaust to leak out where the pipe meets the engine, not too big of a deal, once its running it doesnt seem to come out. BUT! the bike still DIES!!! After letting it run for about 7 min. Or so, it still dies, and my battery seems like its not charged after, it charges when bike is running, but ehen it cuts off, it barely has 12v, new battery too. Also it starts smoking aslightly white smoke from the front of the motor (possibly from the exhaust, or maybe the oil cooler) and the carb! Comes out of the carb once the bike dies. I am loosing my mind. The breather does not blow oil out, the plugs are a fluffy black from running a little rich. Ill try to get a video up tomorrow. Any suggestions? My bike is too sexy to be hiding in the garage!

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-06-2017, 8:49 PM
Also, did Not replace valves, just cleaned em up good, they are in decent shape, the springs are good as well.

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-06-2017, 9:02 PM
Im thinking maybe the spark plugs are getting to fouled from being rich, or cound be the breakerless ignition (single dynatek sensor pickup), or the jet on the carb.

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-06-2017, 9:03 PM
But it happens after a couple min. Of idling, also i usually have to start with the choke, even on an 80 degree day...

Tattooo
08-07-2017, 5:45 AM
Do you have a fan blowing on the bike while your idling in your shop??? When the bike is dying have you sprayed starting fluid in the carb like I have suggested??

hound
08-07-2017, 7:20 AM
is the bike just idling in the garage until it dies? It could be getting too hot or not getting oil circulating beacuase its
just idiling. It needs air movement and rpms or it will die for sure.

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-07-2017, 8:28 AM
Well i dont just sit in the garage, i rode it around the street, still dies and starts smoking out the carb for a min. Not too much smoke, but noticeable. And it will start smoking before it dies and idles a little low, even if i give it gas it will die. And havent tried starting fluid, what would that do? Maybe clean the cylinder? The spark plugs are fouled black probably from running rich or the crankcase breather attached to the carb. I clean them off and still happens.

Tattooo
08-07-2017, 11:13 AM
And havent tried starting fluid, what would that do? Maybe clean the cylinder?

NO it will keep it running if it's running out of gas....... Think about it............... That's why I keep asking the same question........

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-07-2017, 1:06 PM
Ok, ill try that today. Would you do it with the filter cover and filter out in order to spray? Or will that cause damage?

Tattooo
08-07-2017, 1:50 PM
Ok, ill try that today. Would you do it with the filter cover and filter out in order to spray? Or will that cause damage?

Either way it's not going to hurt anything..... What ever is easier for you???? Just as long as you can spray it in the carb.... I don't know what kind of breather you have....

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-07-2017, 2:21 PM
The breather comes straight from the crankcase and connects to the intake right next to the filter. How does the crankshaft get oil? I took off the cover where the ignition pickup and cam is, but theres a seal that blocks to the actual crankshaft. So how does it get oil, and how do you drain it without completely taking apart the bottom of the engine? There is oil in there(can see it on the flywheel through the sight hole for tdc). Just a question. Also why do you think its getting very hot? The spark plug wires are hot to the touch when it dies and the battery is drained. Could it be dying from the spark plugs getting too fouled? And would it cause smoke to come out of the intake? Next time it dies ill rotate the engine and see if it will come out the exhaust.

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-08-2017, 3:06 PM
So, its official, im an idiot!! I was reading some forums and it hit me after th8nking like a mad scientist trying to figure out what was wrong, well i didnt think of the super simple stuff i already did to the bike, which first thing was oil change.... the notes in the back of my maintenence manual saidthe previous owner used 20w oil, so me being dumb put 20w50 motor oil from autozone (the one that says its for motorcycles). Ugh i feel stupid, i was readinga different forum and everyone says 50w or even 70w for the summer. Now does that make sense or what, the smoke could have been from the thin oil burning. Correct??

Tattooo
08-08-2017, 4:24 PM
So, its official, im an idiot!! I was reading some forums and it hit me after th8nking like a mad scientist trying to figure out what was wrong, well i didnt think of the super simple stuff i already did to the bike, which first thing was oil change.... the notes in the back of my maintenence manual saidthe previous owner used 20w oil, so me being dumb put 20w50 motor oil from autozone (the one that says its for motorcycles). Ugh i feel stupid, i was readinga different forum and everyone says 50w or even 70w for the summer. Now does that make sense or what, the smoke could have been from the thin oil burning. Correct??


Not really... Many people run 20w50 with no problems.... I don't but many do.... Now back to your shutting off problem....

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-08-2017, 4:46 PM
Well damn. Im so stressed with this. Ill post a video soon...

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-08-2017, 7:02 PM
You think it could be the lifters?? The engine is still just as loud as the exhaust and its overheating.

Tattooo
08-08-2017, 7:10 PM
You think it could be the lifters?? The engine is still just as loud as the exhaust and its overheating.

Timing is off and it's running lean..... What did the starting fluid do when it starting shutting off?????

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-08-2017, 9:01 PM
It seems something is not functioning correctly, the engine is louder than the pipes, and seems like smoke is filling the crankcase and cylinders messing up the combustion and dying. Thanks for the suggestions tattoo, gonna do a compression test soon as well

Tattooo
08-08-2017, 9:04 PM
It seems something is not functioning correctly, the engine is louder than the pipes, and seems like smoke is filling the crankcase and cylinders messing up the combustion and dying. Thanks for the suggestions tattoo, gonna do a compression test soon as well


If the motor is louder than the exhaust I don't think I would crank it anymore..... I'd start tearing it down.......

farmall
08-09-2017, 7:53 AM
"Smoke" can't do shit but lack of oil scavenge can. Was oil returning to the oil tank?

If the battery dies then a charging system test is in order after finding the cause of the noise. It could have a charging system problem causing the shutdown and mechanical problems causing the noise.


How does the crankshaft get oil?

Your factory service manual has a nice diagram. If you referred to your factory service manual you'd not have asked. No offense, but get in that book and do not try to work around getting in that book. Study like you were studying for a stripe.

Study and fully understand theory of operation of all systems.



If the motor is louder than the exhaust I don't think I would crank it anymore..... I'd start tearing it down.......

This.

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-10-2017, 1:47 PM
The battery charges fine when running... as for the noise, i did not check the freeplay in the rockers, may need bushings.. i took off the gearcase, and i believe im on the right page. And i am going by the service manual, everything seems ok, the cam lobes do have mild pitting, but shouldnt affect too much. What i DID find, was there was barely any oil in the gearcase, and the little bit that was in there was very black and old. I have new clear oil in the oil tank... i did replace all the internals on the oil pump.. so why wouldnt it be getting oil in the gearcase and to the crankcase? Im not too sure if the breather gear was aligned properly when i took the cover off.

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-10-2017, 1:51 PM
But i feel like its dying and overheating due to lack of oil, which probably cause my previos pistons to scorch. As for the noise of the engine, i feel like its the lifters not getting enough oil, or could be the rockers need shims.. probably the oil. So i got the gearcase off, i know i should put it back together start it breifly and check for oil return( which i thought was when i last checked, but couldve been just a little too full in the tank). Any suggestions while gearcase off? Or should i put it back together, put oil in the gearcase and check for return?

SmittyWebbJohnson
08-10-2017, 2:27 PM
Or could it be something simple as check ball nut or bypass valve too tight?

farmall
08-10-2017, 3:21 PM
While it is a free flow oil system you could connect a cheap mechanical pressure gauge (auto store gauges are usually 1/8" NPT) and know if you have pressure at your test point. No pressure means lots of noise.

The idiot light pressure sensor is also sufficient. I use those and don't bother with a gauge since running oil pressure drops dramatically when warm. It's all about flow.

It's fairly common for people installing oil pumps to knock one of the tiny half-moon keys out of its slot and not notice. Since you have the cover off, inspect! They are small enough to hide under a small amount of oil. I use small forceps to handle the keys.

I prefer the teflon oil pump gaskets (less likely to tear and don't crush) and replace the circlip every time I remove one but if you are very careful not to expand it you can reuse them. Also remember the correct way to install a circlip is with the "sharp" edged side facing outward so it will dig in rather than work its way off. A magnifying glass and bright light will show the difference on that tiny fucker.

http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-234/files/snap-ring_edges.jpg

Return should be visible and pressure is testable. The stages are mechanically independent.

Since the pump was the last disturbed complex part it's worth checking.

No need to put oil in the gearcase to check for return. If the feed is clear and the pump develops pressure, oil will end up there to be scavenged.

Tattooo
08-10-2017, 3:22 PM
the cam lobes do have mild pitting, but shouldnt affect too much.

LOL It shouldn't affect MUCH. LOL

LOL Jesse I've heard that before what about you?????

Tattooo
08-10-2017, 3:25 PM
Any suggestions while gearcase off?

Oh yea take pics and post them here............

SmittyWebbJohnson
09-18-2017, 9:37 AM
Update: found the cause! Its been a while since i been on here. But while i had the cearcase off, i took off the oil pump cover, one of the geers in the oil pump cover wasnt turning woth the shaft.... it was a broken woodruff key, so oil wasnt ciculating properly.. bike runs great now, also had the heads resurfaced, new guides and valves. SO with all that said, the harley runs great, i ride it around at differnt speeds for at least 30 min. No problem. BUT, now another problem.. when i shut it off when its hot, it wont start back up fine till its cooled off. It will sometimes if its off for only a few min. But other than that it will start and idle rough and die.. any suggestions? Im leading torwards the coil. Not to sure if its stock or dyna s. I have a dyna s single sensor pickup for the points. Would this sound like coil to anyone else? Thanks

Dragstews
09-18-2017, 10:11 AM
LOL It shouldn't affect MUCH. LOL

LOL Jesse I've heard that before what about you?????

http://www.motivationalquotesabout.com/images/quotes/believe-none-of-what-you-hear-and-half-of-benjamin-franklin.jpg

farmall
09-18-2017, 10:18 AM
To check for spark quickly before the engine cools off, rubber band or hose clamp two spark plugs together at the bodies. This makes for easy spark checking without having to be an octopus.

Connect your test plugs to the coil wires after shutdown. Then try for spark.

Since you closed up the gearcase without sending pics, try to find a pic online of what your cam lobes look like.

I replace tappet rollers or tappets when swapping cams to prevent roller failure munching the new cam. Google "harley cam lobe wear" and "harley tappet roller wear" for examples. Pic need not be a Shovel as any roller tappet cam will do for examples.

These tappet rollers are done:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/evo-classic-models/331162d1377958611-pics-of-my-worn-lifter-and-camshaft-img_20130831_070314_748.jpg

Dragstews
09-18-2017, 10:23 AM
Note to OP:

If you do deem your cam is in bad, worn out state...
I have a New Leineweber cam in the classifieds....

Fits 77-84 models.

As farmall said, sure would be a great idea to also replace the rollers too ...

78835

That is, if the lifters and block bores are in good shape....

Sky
09-19-2017, 6:03 AM
Check for spark, yes...
Double check pushrod adjustment
Tight pushrods can cause hard starting when warm.
Long, drawn-out thread, so forgive me if I'm missing it...
But is there an insulator/spacer behind the carb?
Ever check the advanced weight assembly?
And of course timing is everything...

SmittyWebbJohnson
11-15-2017, 6:57 PM
Update* sorry its been a while. But got the bike running. Take it up and down the block. Caeb pops here and then, need to get new jets. So new valves, bored the cylinders, new pistons, rebuilt oil pump. S&s super b carb. So i also had to rewire the ENTIRE bike when i first got it. I have the generator or alternator so to speake wore directly to the battery. The PROBLEM is that i ride the bike no problem and it will just shut off after about 5 min. While riding. Ill try to start BUT nothing will turn on. Lights nothing. Like the battery is completely dead. But i turn off the ignition switch, and wait about 1 min. And ill be able to crank the electric starter no problem and ride for about another 5 min. Or so. Any suggestions?? Thanks

SmittyWebbJohnson
11-15-2017, 6:58 PM
Spark is good, advance is good and set perfect, so is pushrod adjustments.