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View Full Version : kick start only cone shovel isuues...please help



Jeremy24
05-25-2017, 7:31 AM
So I cant get my motor to run, its kicked over and fired front and rear cylinder but wont stay running

1980 cone shovel
- new pistons, rings, cam, valves, springs, retainers, rebuilt oil pump, new coil, new points, condenser
- s and s e .0295 intermiadite jet, 72 main jet, 3 turns out on accel pump and 1.5 on air mix.
- new o rings gaskets betrween head and intake manifold
- static timed at TCD with .018 gap on both lobes of the cam for the points
- nr-14 plugs
- full charge on battery
-compression on both heads
- getting fuel
- getting spark
-pushrods have been adjusted correctly

Heres what I think it might be..... when I pull the plugs they are dry but when I pull the carb the back of the intake manifold its wet with raw fuel like its not making it into the cylinder, any thoughts? anyone? im stuck

Tattooo
05-25-2017, 7:38 AM
Timing is off....

Jeremy24
05-25-2017, 7:55 AM
Timing is off....

as in advance or retard my points or restatic time with the timing mark moved in the hole?

Tattooo
05-25-2017, 8:40 AM
as in advance or retard my points or restatic time with the timing mark moved in the hole?


What mark are you using??? What push rod is all the way closed when you set the timing... I'm not talking about your points...

Jeremy24
05-25-2017, 12:06 PM
Sorry guess I misread. Its a late 1980 motor so im timing off the line, when the front intake lifter is all the way closed.

Jeremy24
05-25-2017, 12:08 PM
front cylinder compression stroke

farmall
05-25-2017, 12:39 PM
Here's how I and many other old farts do it. Much love for timing plugs but on points engines I leave them installed (with some pipe dope or anti-seize on the threads for future removal to clear wet sumping etc) and do the following:

Verify points gap and contact condition and cleanliness.
Position backing plate so the cover studs are in the middle of the curved slots.
Attempt start. If backfires out the exhaust, it's overly retarded, if out the intake, too far advanced.

SLIGHTLY move the plate by loosening the cover studs so they provide drag and the backing plate isn't loose but can be moved by gentle prying in the slots with a small flat tip screwdriver.

If your engine starts, you are already close.

Try a cunt hair (a millimeter or less, patiently sneak up on the correct setting) more advance or retard (I'd advance first from your description) and observe results. Initial goal is an easy starting engine because if it lights off easily it's damn near spot on. You can always use a light after you get it running and warmed up.

After you manage easy starting, you can fiddle the advance for good on-road performance. Know what pinging/detonation sounds like (tinkle under load when throttle is rolled on). Detonation is bad so avoid too much advance. You won't have easy starting AND too much advance because they are incompatible.

After you get used to timing them by ear you'll be able to do it quickly. The goal of ignition timing can be accomplished easily without a timing light on Harleys. You can always use a light to check timing AFTER you get the bitch starting and running properly.

Avoid prolonged idling since low oil pressure and no airflow over da fins makes air-cooled engines sad. Many folks use fans when they are gonna run a stationary engine for a while.

Remember, SMALL backing plate movements!