View Full Version : Oil Pressure Gauge Kit

01-24-2017, 4:32 PM
I've a 1973 TR6 I'm re building and want to put an oil pressure gauge on it.

Anyone know what fittings I need? I've seen a gazillion different answers about threads and tapers and cracking cases etc. Fuck that, I just want someone to say there you go, use these three bits and this gauge.

There's a couple of kits on the market but they're extortionate prices. What are the fittings they're using?

Please dont reply if you don't know as I'd like to keep this on thread.

Cheers. Foxy

01-25-2017, 4:11 PM
Well, I will try not to waste your time. But I would have to look it up the threads but as you know they changed several times but in my experience if
you CAREFULLY run a US pipe tap thru the timing cover oil port you should be good to go, and a 73 should not be a weird BSP thread (British standard pipe)
Just get a small brass pipe fitting with a barbed end, good quality hose and you are good to go.
Now, can I add a few things?
#1) Good on you laddie for adding a Oil gauge! Smart move. You will take BETTER care of your engine by monitoring that. Use the right oil, warm it up right and not ride like a idiot.
#2) The factory idiot lights are a joke, and the factory stopped using them as they created warranty claims from nervous owners
That being said, I LIKE to add in my own. I use a Chevrolet spec sensor in a T fitting between the engine and gauge. I might still have the part number down in the shop, but it basically comes on at 7 psi. I run the hose from the timing cover up under the tank or hide it and put in a brass T fitting with the Oil sensor in one and continue the line to the gauge.
#3) Buy a Kit??? FUK that! Make your own there and build it cool! You can order a $30 dollar liquid filled oil gauge and hit the hardware store for fittings and the auto parts store for line.
#4) I run these on Triumphs, BSA and Nortons and depends on the bike where I mount everything. But I have some T6 aluminum plate and I make my own gauge holders and put in a small Idiot light next to it. I cut the plate holes with a hole saw and drills, and trim it to shape with my band saw or use a jig saw.
You can make it as elaborate or as simple as you like but the idea is to make it look good and functional. For example stay away from goofy gauge faces too you want it readable and preferably where you can SEE it. Black background and white numbers is good. Pick the right gauge range too. 0-100 is good. You will
be amazed how HIGH the oil can spike when cold but when hot and slow idle it can dip down pretty low. I have seen guys use a short range gauge and
peg it and wont work right anymore.
#5) Most liquid filled gauges are not back lit. Most of the time that does not matter as Joseph A Lucas says " A gentleman does not motor about after dark"
But generally you can still see the gauge even at night. But if that matters I HAVE in the past made a small light for them. Small LED bulb and thin stalk of stainless tubing, cut a small port hole in the side of tubing and welded the top of the tube and faced it off flate. Kind of like a periscope,. Faced it AWAY from me but
shining down on the gauge. It took multiple attempts as the LED was insanely bright so I experimented with openings till I got the right amount of illumination on the gauge.
I hope that gives you some guidance and ideas. The whole idea is to make it functional, but not look cobbled together. On a cafe or stock bike its easier to hide things, on a chopper or bobber everything is more exposed. But with some thought, you can make a really cool set up.

Any moron can order shit out of a catalog, but the cool kids fab their stuff and make it their own.

Here is a kit that a really smart old guy builds (You can copy some of his ideas). This should give you some ideas as well as really good info for anyone
who is looking for how to do this and tech tips. Fred is a very knowledgeable guy and there are some tech articles (MOSTLY NORTON) that are really informative on his website. If anyone needs Norton shit,, Fred & Ella are great people.
See: https://www.oldbritts.com/38_240010.html

01-26-2017, 5:58 PM
Cheers but,

Loads of info, mostly useless.

I'm in London mate, so that "weird" BSP thread size is important. What is the BSP size?

Can anyone tell me what I need, or am I going to have to take a ride up to Venhill to get them to make me a line and fitting? ��?

01-28-2017, 3:53 AM
I am not certain WHY you would need to pay someone else to do something unless you dont have basic tools, Why not just use the blanking plug that is there and tap that for a common hardware store pipe fitting? Many ways to do this.
68 and earlier had 1/8 UNS NSP (Parallel) or 3/8" american styled sizing with BSC 26 TPI.
Around 69 they went 27 TPI NPT (Tapered) then mid year went 27 TPI NPS (Parallel) As I said, You can carefully retap. Those not fitted with a oil pressure sending unit (idiot light) had a short blanking bolt. The non tapered used a sealing washer. The tapered used goo or plastic tape on the threads. Clearly a bodger can crack the cover if you muck about.
If you HAVE the blanking bolt drill the center of it carefully and run a very small Brass hose barb fitting or if clever then a adapter to run a threaded hose fitting up the gauge.
I could beat this to death, or just copy what these guys illustrated quite well.
See: http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=416197&Searchpage=1&Main=45883&Words=18_UBBT_PHRASE_npt&Search=true

01-28-2017, 6:25 PM
Excellent info on the britbike link mate. Cheers

01-29-2017, 4:34 AM
Best of luck, and motor on!

02-04-2017, 6:34 PM

For anyone who's interested. Here's the bits you need....