View Full Version : Can Anyone Positively I D this wheel ?

04-28-2016, 2:37 AM
HI Guys ,
I have a wheel which I was lead to believe was from an XS650 circa early 80's, anyway I suspect that this is not true, I need to replace the rear cush drives as they are terminally shagged, but all the XS650 ones I can find have a metal sleeve around the rubber, the originals in this wheel do not, or at least it doesn't seem so. I need to try and accurately ID which bike the wheel is off if possible, I don't know if the new drives are an upgrade but I can't find any dimensional info on the parts so can't measure anything, anyway here's some pictures if anyone can give me a steer,






Cheers Chris

04-28-2016, 5:54 AM
Metal sleeves are probably an update.
Try to get a measurement from the supplier, then check against the size of the hole(s) in the carrier.
I don't see the yamaha tuning fork logo, sure looks like a Yamaha wheel.
But Triumph had similar, disk only though I think.
Don't think the aftermarket cos had any cast in drums either

04-28-2016, 6:06 AM
I don't see the yamaha tuning fork logo, sure looks like a Yamaha wheel.

Definitely Yamaha. First pic, click it twice to view full size.

Can't help with any model specific info but I know a Yamaha tuning fork when I see one. :)


04-28-2016, 6:29 AM
BTW, is the metal sleeve pressed into the hub? I believe the metal sleeves are on those parts new and then pressed into place. If you remove them, the rubber insert and stud will come out leaving the metal sleeve behind in the hub. You probably need to cut them out. More than likely your rubbers are all chewed up because someone removed them at some point and then tried to force them back into the sleeves in the hub.

I know very little about Yamaha's though so hopefully someone else chimes in for you.

04-28-2016, 9:24 AM
Thanks guys,

@boomboomthump...that seems to ring true, it looks like the sleeves are still in the hubs, I did try and gently drift one out from the back, but the purchase is negligible and it didn't move

How would they be cut out ?

@sky, tried to get dims from the supplier but no luck

looking at the supplier info all the cush drives for the XS250 / 400 /650 seem to have the same part number and for 6 quid each I'm going to buy them and send them back if they don't fit , cheers peeps anyway, much appreciated..

04-28-2016, 10:46 AM
to get the sleeves out you could spot weld little bars (or washers or????) down inside or across the ends the use that to beat against.



04-28-2016, 1:22 PM
Without seeing it, it's hard to say but I've used a small burr or grinding bit on a dremel tool to slice a notch on a sleeve before in another application. You should then be able to chisel it out but again, without seeing exactly what you're up against, it's hard to say.

04-28-2016, 1:27 PM
Something like this might work, though he's tapping an inner bushing sleeve, not an outer one. So you'd need a larger tap.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Dzf1SJgcvBg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

You could also try heating it and hitting it from the rear again.

04-29-2016, 2:11 AM
Ah, Cheers ,....here's the wheel so it seems like a fairly similar process might work,I'll work something out :) Thanks very much All....

05-19-2016, 9:56 AM
Got the cush drives out, but it wasn't easy, here's how in case anyone is interested, sorry didn't take any pictures, forgot in the excitement.:)

Bits required - One length of M18 threaded studding @ 300mm, 5 x M18 Nuts.

First I welded one of the nuts onto the end of the bar, effectively making a very long bolt
Secondly grind down the corners of another nut slightly until it was as tight a fit as possible into the cush drive insert, drop a suitable washer down the insert to shield the casting at the bottom.
Place the nut on the end of the threaded stud so the threads protrude slightly and place it into the aperture of the cush drive insert, drive the free nut down into the cush drive insert by striking the end with the welded nut on it
Once the nut is firmly as far down into the insert as possible, using a fine flat punch, working your way round the insert fold over the top of the insert onto the nut, (don't remove the threaded bar because you possibly won't be able to get it back in once you've folded the top of the insert over)
Then using a bigger flat punch work your way round firmly flattening the folded over metal.
Once its all done, give it a squirt with WD40 or the like and have a fag / cup of tea
Finally wind the threaded bar into the insert as if tightening it and Bobs yer uncle it will pull the insert out.
Once out, cut the section of the threaded bar off insert and all, (the process will probably have knackered the threads anyway and there's little point trying to reclaim the nut)
Then repeat for each insert.

Hope this is helpful to someone...not the most technical solution, but it worked for me with no collateral damage to the wheel