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BlackCloudSalvage
03-12-2016, 11:20 PM
Any advice? Things you have realized that you missed the first time around? My first rigid. What am I not thinking about? Make sure this is super tight? Do this...dont do that? Dont forget? Just a evo sportster, solid mount. Stock neck,etc. Just a roller at this point. Thanks

hhc
03-13-2016, 1:12 AM
red loctight on everything. i mean everything, at least with the shit roads up here

docmel
03-13-2016, 9:01 AM
red loctight on everything. i mean everything, at least with the shit roads up here

I agree Red Loctite EVERYTHING.

On all electrical connectors, use quality connectors/solder

Use main circuit braker off the pos side of battery before it gets to the ign switch

BlackCloudSalvage
03-13-2016, 10:44 AM
Thanks. Keep it coming!

wkeysor
03-13-2016, 10:53 AM
I'm 61 still riding rigids - Get your seat, feet and handlebars in the right place. Makes for a lot more comfort.

BadMonkeyMW
03-13-2016, 10:59 AM
I'm 61 still riding rigids - Get your seat, feet and handlebars in the right place. Makes for a lot more comfort.

That's very good advice. Riding position means everything when it comes to being able to put miles on a rigid.

Revelator
03-13-2016, 12:27 PM
stock up on preparation H
get a tool bag
get some rubbers for all the pussy your going to get

but then maybe not if you have hemorrhoids.

boomboomthump
03-13-2016, 10:13 PM
Great, another thread about to turn into a Loctite discussion because of bad advice. I can count on one hand the things that should have red Loctite on it.

KevinN
03-14-2016, 6:25 AM
LED tail lamps. I've been through quite a few 1157 bulbs till I switched.

jsaz666
03-16-2016, 12:30 PM
Great, another thread about to turn into a Loctite discussion because of bad advice. I can count on one hand the things that should have red Loctite on it.

You mean you don't use red loctite when you bolt a rotor to an aluminum wheel? I cannot count on both hands how many times I have had to weld a nut to a rotor or pulley bolt that the Allen or torx head was stripped out due to incorrect threadlocker. I guess I shouldn't bitch, it's a good way to get my hands on good parts cheap!

nomdreas
03-16-2016, 12:37 PM
Give your kidneys some love and throw a decent set of springs under your solo seat. I'm running 6" ers under mine and although my seat could stand a little lower asthetically after a long ride you'll be thanking yourself for that decision.

mrhammer2u
03-16-2016, 2:53 PM
LED tail lamps. I've been through quite a few 1157 bulbs till I switched.

+1
My friends hardtail goes through quite a few bulbs every year. May seem trivial but when it's night and his bulbs are out,..he's a ghost.

TurnerR
03-16-2016, 7:59 PM
I use blue locktight on just about every fastener except the trans sprocket nut for my sporty chop.

Tattooo
03-16-2016, 8:03 PM
Great, another thread about to turn into a Loctite discussion because of bad advice. I can count on one hand the things that should have red Loctite on it.

Yep I TOTALLY agree...... People that has to use a lot of loctite needs to learn how to tighten bolts.....

farmall
03-16-2016, 8:03 PM
get some rubbers for all the pussy your going to get

but then maybe not if you have hemorrhoids.

If you have roids, don't bottom! (runs)

Total love for red Loctite and locknuts and tab lock washers and safety wire here. (Aircraft rarely use lock washers for good, and tested, reason.) I avoid dry threads because of galling and corrosion. Use anti-seize where appropriate such as exhaust pipe mount studs. If I have a Loctited fastener that takes too much force to remove, I heat it. (Loctite is plastic.) I buy common lock nuts by the bag so they are always available.



You mean you don't use red loctite when you bolt a rotor to an aluminum wheel?

I do, because I've fought more dry threads than I care to.

Use quality industrial heat shrink and connectors. Fuck auto store junk. Ain't that expensive for how little you use on a motorcycle. Local Fastenals are a good source.

Tattooo
03-16-2016, 8:05 PM
+1
My friends hardtail goes through quite a few bulbs every year. May seem trivial but when it's night and his bulbs are out,..he's a ghost.


I built my rigid pan in 08 have about 5000 miles on it and have never had to replace the tail light bulb.... It's a 1157....

Flabadabadingdong
03-17-2016, 2:37 PM
Get a snorkel so you don't drown in all the pussy you're going to get.

jsaz666
03-17-2016, 4:43 PM
Get a snorkel so you don't drown in all the pussy you're going to get.

And I'm again reminded why I fucking love this site!!!! LMAO!

Tattooo
03-17-2016, 6:02 PM
To the people that keep blowing tail lights???? How much air pressure are you running in the rear????

BlackCloudSalvage
03-18-2016, 8:27 AM
Thanks for the advice folks.

jsaz666
03-18-2016, 9:55 AM
To the people that keep blowing tail lights???? How much air pressure are you running in the rear????

I run about 20lbs, never lost a tail light.

hhc
03-18-2016, 11:11 PM
im running right around 20 ibs as well i nuked lots of tail lights before going led. depends where you ride though too, i end up on gravel and some seriously shitty roads.

on the red lock tight. everyone is going to have there own way of doing shit, if having 16 different kinds of threadlocker and attempting to use the "perfect" one for every application floats your boat then all the power to you. my day job is a natural gas compression technician, i literally work on big vibrating peaces of shit. we use red lock tight on tons of stuff, if your having problems removing it you can simply slightly heat it and it will come right out, impacting motion also releases locktight. as for stripped allens your really gonna blame locktight? allens get stripped because people but a metric key in a standard bolt (or vise versa) and call it close enough. that and the huge amount of truly shit quality allen key sets out there and its a fuck up. i put in and remove allen keys from 5/16 to 1" every day and honestly can not recall stripping one (and like i said we use red locktight on everything)

jsaz666
03-19-2016, 8:12 AM
im running right around 20 ibs as well i nuked lots of tail lights before going led. depends where you ride though too, i end up on gravel and some seriously shitty roads.

on the red lock tight. everyone is going to have there own way of doing shit, if having 16 different kinds of threadlocker and attempting to use the "perfect" one for every application floats your boat then all the power to you. my day job is a natural gas compression technician, i literally work on big vibrating peaces of shit. we use red lock tight on tons of stuff, if your having problems removing it you can simply slightly heat it and it will come right out, impacting motion also releases locktight. as for stripped allens your really gonna blame locktight? allens get stripped because people but a metric key in a standard bolt (or vise versa) and call it close enough. that and the huge amount of truly shit quality allen key sets out there and its a fuck up. i put in and remove allen keys from 5/16 to 1" every day and honestly can not recall stripping one (and like i said we use red locktight on everything)

I am not "blaming" stripped allen heads to threadlocker at all. When I get an aluminum wheel with stainless hardware and everything is stripped, the one common thing is red loctite. And not just a few drops either, combined with that bolt being over torqued. Most rotors are supposed to between 10 and 35lb/ft or so, combine too much red, over torqued, stainless hardware in aluminum wheel along with the wrong tools and that's the recipe for tearing up the hardware. I'm not saying I am perfect by any means either, I have just enough talent to strip a bolt most days.......

BTW, what are you using for LED? Are you using an entire replacement light, or taking an old filament bulb housing with one of those led bulb replacements that screw in like an 1157, if that makes sense? I like LED's due to how bright they are, and around here you need it. Motorcycles seem to be a nuisance.....

Shovel52
03-19-2016, 4:02 PM
good old silicone works just as good as anything on those nuts and bolts, and it's still easy to get them off...been using it for years..

farmall
03-19-2016, 4:47 PM
Silicone used in moderation is handy shit, and if use on threads would keep out moisture. It's also a good way to protectively fill unused threaded holes. Not my idea, I think I read it in an old Super Hunky column back in the Cretaceous period.

hhc
03-19-2016, 10:38 PM
I am not "blaming" stripped allen heads to threadlocker at all. When I get an aluminum wheel with stainless hardware and everything is stripped, the one common thing is red loctite. And not just a few drops either, combined with that bolt being over torqued. Most rotors are supposed to between 10 and 35lb/ft or so, combine too much red, over torqued, stainless hardware in aluminum wheel along with the wrong tools and that's the recipe for tearing up the hardware. I'm not saying I am perfect by any means either, I have just enough talent to strip a bolt most days.......

BTW, what are you using for LED? Are you using an entire replacement light, or taking an old filament bulb housing with one of those led bulb replacements that screw in like an 1157, if that makes sense? I like LED's due to how bright they are, and around here you need it. Motorcycles seem to be a nuisance.....

fucking stainless. i hate stainless hardware with a passion, it has its uses but everyone and there dog seems to think because it "wont" rust it and aluminum must be the perfect match. im just using a replacement bulb ran it all last season with no issues and will be giving it a try again this season.

jsaz666
03-20-2016, 7:06 AM
fucking stainless. i hate stainless hardware with a passion, it has its uses but everyone and there dog seems to think because it "wont" rust it and aluminum must be the perfect match. im just using a replacement bulb ran it all last season with no issues and will be giving it a try again this season.

Agreed. I think its funny when guys say stainless doesn't rust.

You are using a bulb like this? I've used them as replacements in my camper (more amp hours available when only running on batteries) but never on a motorcycle. Ill have to try one.

67847

Shovel52
03-20-2016, 1:23 PM
I have tried one of those bulbs..after a ride across town, my headlight looked like a bowl of pop corn seeds...no way , don't waste your money...however I did buy an led bulb off of ebay with 3 large leds in it and a big heat sink on it, and it's by far the best bulb I have ever run,,,nice and bright and they are supposed to last 50,000 hours, I believe this one will..I could post it if any one is interested....$25 bucks..at the time..your stator will smile too..!

chopperElJefe
03-26-2016, 4:28 PM
Taillight bulbs fuck I've had 2 axl mounted plate/tailight brakets break off my handrail paughco

Tattooo
03-26-2016, 5:04 PM
I run about 20lbs, never lost a tail light.

There you go...... I run about 16lbs.....

hhc
03-31-2016, 10:19 PM
Agreed. I think its funny when guys say stainless doesn't rust.

You are using a bulb like this? I've used them as replacements in my camper (more amp hours available when only running on batteries) but never on a motorcycle. Ill have to try one.

67847

looks kinda like that mine has fewer larger led's though

ReRunCycleWorks
04-01-2016, 6:17 PM
simple things to remember (with any build) pre plan everything.
1. mock up, than mock up, than do a final mock up. To many times first timers get ahead and have to back step. it took a few builds to finally get that point.
2. Try not to jump around work in quadrants so as not to over look anything simple.
3. Map out your wiring even if your not going to run internal.
6. If your building your exhaust or buying it, make sure your frame is equipped to mount it via bungs or something else the flange bolts can only hold so long and be tightened so much before you have bigger issues.
5. Don't devalue the pre final build I guess before you do the final finishing and assembly. With any project you always catch the little tid bits you forgot along the way.

Ik a lot of this is repetitive and long winded but planning is key saves time and money. Also just because it's hard mounted doesn't mean you can't use rubber or I like to use leather washers on oil bags, lights, or anything else to reduce the shake down. Both can be made diy from a craft store or hardware store. As far as going through lights if you don't want led or hid to keep a old school feel I found using a bead of silicone around the inner rim of the light housing and housing ring fixes that issue along with leather or rubber washers on the mounting brackets. I went through 3 headlights in a week before used the silicone trick, after I put 4K on my rigid last season with a old yellow fog light never lost it. If you only but it on the housing and outer housing ring you have the versatility to change the light out without redoing the process.

BlackCloudSalvage
04-03-2016, 8:18 AM
Thanks!!

captstargazer
04-14-2016, 9:26 AM
Keep the advice coming! I would love to hear some pointers as well. Planning on hard-tailing my sporty in the next couple years once I feel I've researched enough. I'm a first generation motorcycle enthusiast and none of my friends are into motorcycles never mind hard-tail choppers so any advice would be appreciated.

cggorman
04-14-2016, 9:49 AM
I am not "blaming" stripped allen heads to threadlocker at all. When I get an aluminum wheel with stainless hardware and everything is stripped, the one common thing is red loctite. And not just a few drops either, combined with that bolt being over torqued. Most rotors are supposed to between 10 and 35lb/ft or so, combine too much red, over torqued, stainless hardware in aluminum wheel along with the wrong tools and that's the recipe for tearing up the hardware. I'm not saying I am perfect by any means either, I have just enough talent to strip a bolt most days.......

Stainless to Aluminum absolutely positively REQUIRES some type of lube or you are virtually guaranteed pulled out threads. Red loctite IS overkill for wheels, tho. I use blue for most things and either metal-free anti-seize, assembly lube, or red loctite everywhere else (mostly engine or suspension stuff) Dry fasteners are evil. Poor torque/preload characteristics and corrosion out the ass.

Jonnycakes
04-14-2016, 4:50 PM
red loctight on everything. i mean everything, at least with the shit roads up here

What he said.........I held onto my gas tank riding down the highway after the mounting bolts came out

jdbuis
04-15-2016, 9:26 PM
Word. LED tail lights. I was putting in a bulb every 2 days for a month before I switched

jsaz666
04-15-2016, 9:57 PM
Stainless to Aluminum absolutely positively REQUIRES some type of lube or you are virtually guaranteed pulled out threads. Red loctite IS overkill for wheels, tho. I use blue for most things and either metal-free anti-seize, assembly lube, or red loctite everywhere else (mostly engine or suspension stuff) Dry fasteners are evil. Poor torque/preload characteristics and corrosion out the ass.

I don't know what the fascination is with stainless hardware lately but it is everywhere.

farmall
04-16-2016, 3:57 PM
Fascination is cuz it's corrosion resistant. Use anti-seize on NEW stainless hardware too. I like the stuff bit it tends to gall without anti-seize or other barrier on the threads.

panheadpete
04-16-2016, 7:26 PM
For the guys having stuff vibrate off do you ever open up your tool bag and go over the bike on a regular basis? Kinda critical on a rigid in my experience and only takes a few minutes

hhc
04-16-2016, 10:30 PM
For the guys having stuff vibrate off do you ever open up your tool bag and go over the bike on a regular basis? Kinda critical on a rigid in my experience and only takes a few minutes

sure do im basicly always fucking with the thing, but get a couple hundred k into a ride and if its not lockwashered or locktighted shit will come loose. i will say i ride on worse roads than im guessing most people with hardtails do (northern BC)

ReRunCycleWorks
05-08-2016, 7:55 AM
Same I'm in western NY its either a crappy asphalt road, brick, or dirt. Ive been running a stock '05 rubber mount 1200 and i still do a run through every couple weeks just because. rigid or not its a great habit to get in to.

triumphbruce
05-08-2016, 8:03 AM
1 hang on
2 check for loose shit
3 repeat

cggorman
05-08-2016, 8:31 AM
Safety wire and/or torque marks. Aircraft style.

jsaz666
05-08-2016, 9:24 AM
ALL great advice. I just moved to upstate New York and on my first day riding around, I lost a nut from the front side of my trans plate and the other was loose. The roads around here are absolute shit.