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mdironhead
03-11-2016, 9:31 PM
I'm shorting something out but I don't know where. I have a 2001 sportster I'm trimming wires so far the left switch pod and the right switch pod. Since I'm not using anything from the left side I cut everything and typed together. The right side I spliced the grey and both white and black wires together then cut the rest and taped them together. I was in the middle of taping it up when I realize a electrical short smell. Oh poop I left the key on. The object that's smoking looks like a resister it's connected on my seat spliced in with something else. It's definatly aftermarket and I can barely tell what it says but I saw Ssm factory security systems on it. Any who what's my next step?

mdironhead
03-11-2016, 9:33 PM
I think I have too many white and black wires attached to the 12v grey. One was from #4 and the other was from #5 on the plug

Tattooo
03-12-2016, 7:51 AM
I think I have too many white and black wires attached to the 12v grey. One was from #4 and the other was from #5 on the plug
LOL Now Damn that's funny..... I needed that this morning..... LOL

I believe you answered your own question...... You can't just go cutting wires because you think it's cool......

cggorman
03-12-2016, 11:57 AM
. You can't just go cutting wires because you think it's cool......

Sure ya can! :)

1ShovelSteve
03-12-2016, 12:56 PM
I'm trying to rewire a 79 FXE. Bought a new main wiring harness for a FXE but doesn't have the 6 pin connector for the speedo / tac. (Speedo & tac are mounted on the tank). So I bought a FXS wiring harness. Has a 6 pin connector but doesn't fit. Do I have to use the connector from the old harness or do I still have the wrong harness?

mdironhead
03-12-2016, 2:34 PM
Idk what it is I disconnected the grey and white/black. So now basically no wire is touching another wire. But still when I put the key in the start position. The black, brown and purple wires under the seat are sending power to this resister thing which will eventually burn up. And also are there metal caps or something to terminate a wire. The turn signals still get 12v when I turn the key and there just tapped up I wish I could do more

Tattooo
03-12-2016, 2:51 PM
What should have been done is unplug from the harness... Isn't that a lot easier than cutting wires and tape them together.....

Tattooo
03-12-2016, 2:55 PM
Sure ya can! :)

If he can then what is his problem???

mdironhead
03-12-2016, 3:16 PM
I would have and should have unplugged it all together but I'm doing this while it's still in the bike. The bike runs all well and everything but I can't figure this short out. Does anyone know that the dark grey connect on the seat functions?

Tattooo
03-12-2016, 6:39 PM
I would have and should have unplugged it all together but I'm doing this while it's still in the bike. The bike runs all well and everything but I can't figure this short out. Does anyone know that the dark grey connect on the seat functions?

While what's still in the bike?? How is it running well when you turn the key on it starts smoking???

Did you think about posting a pic of the wire? Would you happen to have a manual with a wiring diagram??

DrFxr
03-12-2016, 9:30 PM
Without seeing any pics, I'm making a wild guesstimate here that might help. I'm not familiar with the ssm label, but I believe the "resistor thing" could be a load equalizer for your turn signals. Are the turn signals on? Functional? Disconnected and "wired together"? If you accidentally wired your turn signals together in your splice, they will be over loading the load equalizer and cause it to burn. A load leveler will be a box about the size of a credit card, maybe 1/2" thick, with (typically) 3 wires coming out, that are black, brown, and purple. google badlands load equalizer and see if that looks familiar.
Next step would be to grab your factory wiring diagram and figure out what's what under there. After you know what you don't need, either remove the wires entirely, or cover each cut end individually with marine heat shrink tubing, the kind with the glue inside.

mdironhead
03-14-2016, 2:45 AM
I believe your correct. I wish I knew how to post pictures. I have the signals unplugged. But the existing plug is too big to hide so I took the plug off for the turn signals. Can you post pictures from a cell or only computer

mdironhead
03-14-2016, 2:46 AM
But like I said nothing is touching but it's still over loading. I'll get a diagram

mdironhead
03-14-2016, 6:07 AM
So what I can see from the melted tag on the equalizer. It's for the security system. My bike doesn't not have one as far as I know but that's what the tag said. Also I put a new head light on the bike which is only ground and low beam but I do know they both work at the same time. So violet goes to one signal and brown goes to the other and black is common and that's what's feeding the equalizer. Is this a ground issue

53rigid
03-14-2016, 6:08 AM
Can't help you out, but you never should have tackled this without a wiring diagram and a solid plan on what you are going to do. Good luck!

mdironhead
03-14-2016, 6:11 AM
Brown to right turn signal switch. Violet to left turn signal switch and black is ground. Maybe it's not grounded

Tattooo
03-14-2016, 8:05 AM
But like I said nothing is touching but it's still over loading. I'll get a diagram


Sure you have something touching or it wouldn't be over loading...... Buy a manual before you burn it to the ground.......

Tattooo
03-14-2016, 8:06 AM
Brown to right turn signal switch. Violet to left turn signal switch and black is ground. Maybe it's not grounded

No something is grounded...... That's why it's over loading...

DrFxr
03-14-2016, 10:53 AM
+1 For Tattoo. You may need to meticulously inspect your harness from front to back. Even though you just performed some "electrical upgrades", the problem could still be coming from somewhere you didn't cut. I would start by obtaining the wiring diagram for your model.
If your bike has integrated turn signal/brake lights, check to see if your brake light functions properly. The front brake switch is prone to failure, as the wire insulation pulls itself out of the potting resin causing a ground issue. If your bike does not have this feature, inspect that switch when performing the tests below.
Next....
Unplug the LH controls completely from the Main harness. Start the bike. No Smoke? Its likely from that side of the harness you unplugged, or one of the circuits it completes(i.e. turn signal, horn, light). Inspect that section and all of its components. Smoke? Leave unplugged, unplug the RH side controls. Run jumper wires from your kill and starter switches to the plug, and start the bike. Be very careful to insulate and not cross/short those jumper wires! If it is easier for you, just remove the turn signal and brake light pin connectors from the switch and plug it back in. The idea is to isolate the circuits. No smoke, its likely the RH turn signal circuit, or a crossing between the turn signal circuits. Still smoking? Inspect those jumped switches thoroughly. If they are working properly,and not grounding out or running juice through the control casing, then your problem is likely somewhere in the main harness. Its very possible that a wire coincidently rubbed through around the same time you did these "upgrades". Also, while moving things around, a wire's insulation may have pulled back on its end and is touching something it shouldn't be. If that equalizer is a necessary part of the circuitry you're keeping, I'd order a new one once you sort this out. Good luck, be patient and thorough.

bluesrock
03-14-2016, 12:17 PM
"How to work on the electrical system"

Don't.

If you still think you must.... Have a wiring diagram, a voltmeter, and the patience of a Tibetan monk.

mdironhead
03-14-2016, 1:07 PM
Man you guys are rough. I have voltmeters, test lights, dummy sticks and a diagram. I like asking you guys first cause half of you guys have done it already. I do electrical work all day it's just not low/ control voltage type all the time. I'll go through everything again I need to get more heat shrink anyway

Tattooo
03-14-2016, 2:28 PM
Man you guys are rough. I have voltmeters, test lights, dummy sticks and a diagram. I like asking you guys first cause half of you guys have done it already. I do electrical work all day it's just not low/ control voltage type all the time. I'll go through everything again I need to get more heat shrink anyway

You do wiring for a living???? I don't think I would have said that even if it's true.... What does low/ control voltage type have to do with it????? Wiring is wiring...... You of all people should know better than to cut wires and tape them together..... WTF!!!!!!

mdironhead
03-14-2016, 7:55 PM
I never said I do it for a living. I'm in hvac. But anyway I seperated everything and started over. I believe there was a short under the tank where there must have been some rubbing or a pinched wire. But so far no more issues. I literally taped every single wire. I checked the load equalizer and no voltage just like It should be

Revelator
03-14-2016, 8:35 PM
I'm guessing that the "taped" wire is just temporary until the wiring is sorted out & then
solder or crimp conns will then be used for the splicing. still not a good idea, a better way would
be small wire nuts for temporary connections.

mdironhead
03-15-2016, 2:56 AM
I have splices used when they can be but wire nuts are too bulky. I need like something to terminate wire ends. I have been soldering but I lost my iron so I just been using a lighter