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MalaVidaCS
02-21-2016, 4:59 PM
Hey guys,

I have tried searching but I couldn't find the answer to my question, please feel free to link me if I have missed a thread that does.

I have a bare metal fender and tank, and i have seen a number of bikes that seem to have left them bare metal, but they are dark and free of rust, and seem to have no problem keeping decals and stickers on the panel, the tank I got is heavily surface rusted just from handling and leaving it sitting unpainted, however, the rear fender feels like it has a light film of some kind of oil and only has a very small patch of surface rust.

I have included pictures of what I have come across, they're members on here so it would be awesome to hear from them directly, but I'd really appreciate any help about it.

I realise the last picture is completely covered with stickers and could have primer or paint underneath them, but thats the look that i'd be aiming for.

also with the last pic, would that be a custom frame or can you buy dropseat frames/sections like that?
i've searched for that to no avail as well!

Thanks in advance!
Tim

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OleDirtyDoc
02-21-2016, 6:47 PM
Clear coat

MalaVidaCS
02-21-2016, 10:04 PM
cheers dude. i have read a lot about clear coating bare metal and it seems to look a lot brighter than the look these guys have. if there is any prep etc that you can suggest or even clears that would work that way.
thanks.

trikerdrew
02-23-2016, 6:50 PM
Could you not slap some matt polyurethane varnish on it?

Or shiny stuff then use 3m scotchbrite to dull it.

Depends how posh you want the finish.

Good luck with it

Drew

trikerdrew
02-25-2016, 12:56 AM
Just been reading a old BSH mag and the product your looking for would be called Ballistol. Bavarian produced gun grease. If you want to see the finish I will scan the article.
Drew

MalaVidaCS
02-25-2016, 5:08 AM
thanks heaps drew! i'll have a look into it online, hopefully i can find it somewhere here to safe you the effort, much appreciated bro!!

cisco
02-25-2016, 12:08 PM
Rust needs moisture and oxygen. Got to be the reason why your rear fender has little rust since some motor or chain oil flew back onto it which helped keep moisture and oxygen from getting to the metal. Many options to get the look your after. BTW the last pic of the stickered tank maybe has stickers then clear coat sprayed on top.
Clearcoat is now cheap to buy in spray can form and can be had in a darker smoke shade. Like said many options exist.....maybe clear then scotchbrite the clearcoat......or scotchbrite the tank then clearcoat it.... or clearcoat then scotchbrite then clearcoat again. The gun grease is a cool idea but I wonder if it might get onto hands or clothing. Also the grease may wear off and the way you'll know is rust will appear. If you don't want rust to start IMO clearcoat at least a few layers thick is the way to go.

None
02-25-2016, 9:24 PM
Boeshield T-9?

It was developed by the Boeing Company for superior aircraft corrosion protection and the long-term protection of aircraft. Won't eat paint either.

racewiththedevil
02-27-2016, 11:43 AM
i've had my share of bare metal bikes. there's a couple ways to go about doing it. i have clear coated before, a couple brands sell FLAT or MATTE clear coat if you aren't looking to have it glossy. with that you can just spray a TON of light coats. though BE CAREFUL when gassing up your bike because if you spill gas on the tank it will eat away the shitty off the shelf clear coats. also, my preferred method - if you just have a bare metal tank and fender, once a week just wipe it down with WD-40. i've done that with one of mine and it keeps the rust away and it's almost like a polishing ritual :P if you have a bare metal FRAME then i certainly advise you to clear coat.

boomboomthump
02-28-2016, 9:51 AM
To add a few points and repeat a few as well...

- Matte clear or scotchbrite'ing glossy clear will keep it less shiny

- Don't use regular clear coat from the hardware store. You want SprayMax (or knock-off's like Eastwood) "2K clear". This is a two part clear which is mixed at time of use, just like real automotive paint. It is $20-30 a can. If you buy this, make sure you have a proper respirator and cover all parts of your skin. The fumes and chemicals are no joke.

- Regardless of clear coating, you will inevitably end up with some minor rust developing between the clear and metal. It is minor and you'll only see it a foot away but you should be aware of this.

sidewindersigns
02-28-2016, 12:54 PM
That last picture looks to me like the stickers are actually painted on there. They fit just a little too perfect and I can't see any overlapped edges or the wrinkles you'd expect when you wrap a sticker over a compound curve like that.

76FLHBob
02-28-2016, 2:33 PM
Howdy. For the drop seat, I just had my frame done at Speedking (speedkingusa.com). Just starting to put this together, but Jeff does a great job with the frames - plus if he drop seats your frame, it's still a stock harley as far as the DMV is concerned.

Flabadabadingdong
02-29-2016, 4:42 PM
If you're willing to spend the extra dollars for a permanent solution, they make clear powder coat. That's what I did with my pipes. I can upload a picture of them if you're curious.

MalaVidaCS
03-09-2016, 4:09 AM
you guys are awesome! much appreciated for the info!
a friend from high school actually got in contact with me almost straight after i posted this and hes a painter, offered to paint it for a good price so i couldnt say no, ill put some pics up in the right thread when its again
thanks again, chopcult is the best resource on the net for building bikes.

BuddhahoodVato
03-09-2016, 11:09 AM
Permalac

trikerdrew
03-11-2016, 10:50 PM
Ooh!

Pics and what products did he use?

Nosey sod😁

Drew

Turtle1351
04-09-2016, 9:06 AM
My Sporty tank and rear fender have been bare metal for about 10 years now. Ground down with a DA sander and liberally wiped down with Gibbs oil. I wipe it down with Gibbs 3 or 4 times a year and it still looks like day one.

YouFancy77
04-09-2016, 11:26 AM
You can use a product called Shark Hide you wipe it on and let it dry and it protects the metal

Eurotrashed88
05-01-2016, 6:32 PM
You can buy a flat clear coat from any automotive painter's supply store. Prep the metal, if that only entails wax and grease, and a tack clothe and adhesion promotor, then spray clear as per 'p sheet' recommendation.

Fad9567
05-13-2016, 6:30 AM
Does anyone have any input on the best rattle can clear coat found at autoparts stores?

I bought some Dupli-color clear engine enamel because it says its "oil and fluid resistant" Hopefully that will be a little better at keeping the gas drips from eating the paint than regular clear coat. Havent been able to spray my tank because of 17 days of rain. But will post an update when I do
Just the raw tank when I bought it, now its black to prevent rust but will be stripping it soon.
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matttatts
06-24-2016, 1:10 PM
I gun blued mine.

hhc
06-24-2016, 9:27 PM
i have a polished steel gun that has been in worse conditions than most peoples bikes. just a quick wipe down with car polish every once (i did the gun once a year) and a while and it keeps the moisture and oxygen off it. another solution you can simply oil the steel. clear coat is the least maintenince but there are other options out there as well

Dinnertimedave
06-25-2016, 4:58 AM
If you're willing to spend the extra dollars for a permanent solution, they make clear powder coat. That's what I did with my pipes. I can upload a picture of them if you're curious.

You powder coated your exhaust?? Never thought of that, please can we have some pictures!! I was thinking of getting mine ceramic coated but it's a bit pricey over here!! Has the powder coat lasted well??

gusval
09-02-2016, 10:15 PM
linseed oil

beat
09-19-2016, 7:23 PM
i aint a painter, but i know how it works. the point of primer/sealer is to give bare metal something for the base(color) and clear coat to adhere to.
skipping the primer & base and going straght to a clear coat is asking for problems.
w/ that said i've seen some bare metal clearcoated both w/ professionally painted expensive auto grade some w/ a rattle can.
after a year or 2 they started to rust and or yellow.

bare metal aint my bag, but....IF i were going to do it...
the linseed oil sounds like a good idea.
or maybe try REMOIL. you can get it at any hunting/sporting store or wal*mart in the hunting section. comes in a squirt bottle or aerosol spray can. i would think a part the size of a gas tank would need a spray can. spray or wipe it down and it will protect bare metal. i use it to wipe down my machinist tools.
maybe take an old junky fender or tank or any chunk of sheet metal and sand/grind it to clean/bare metal and hose it down w/ some remoil and leave it outside for a couple weeks to a month and see what happens...i dont know. i dont leave my tools outside.

now, that clear powdercoat thing sounds cool. i didnt know that existed.
if i had a frame or something that the welds were so pretty or a part that was so awesome that i wouldnt want to hide w/ paint that would be the way i'd go.
i said bare metal aint my scene, but i just might have to look into that.

7and7is
09-19-2016, 8:01 PM
Or this...... https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html#pr-header-back-to-top-link

usmc50lx
10-14-2016, 9:34 AM
72426Linseed oil, or Gibbs Protectant. Gibbs is a aerosol oil that doesn't leave a film. we use it on metal finished cars around the shop to prevent rust before paint. Or to keep bare metal look on some parts like our shop truck

Parisbrom
01-20-2018, 8:17 PM
i just tried fogging oil then wiped down the bare metal as im still building my chop in a dank old building where the air could rust it. just like WD-40.

you can also use johnson paste wax. best way is to heat the metal with a torch enough so the wax melts on and youll see the difference/ areas you miss. how often youll need to do that is up to the amount of driving or rainfall. cant get to all the tight spots so you could do an oil based idea there.

if i dont have enough time to paint before spring ill have this same problem (very likley). also heard about the raw metal airplane clear coat or marine clear coats but have never tried them or dug deep. all in all keep the oxygen or moisture out and it cannot rust

53Bash
01-21-2018, 12:04 AM
Polyeurethane works quite well in my experience, assuming the metal is very clean. I used a spray poly, not sure if that matters.

If you are want some patina developing, linseed oil works well.

DustyDave
01-21-2018, 12:32 AM
A friend did his pan frame by heating it with a propane torch and brushing it with a brass brush then reheating it and rubbing with commercial floor wax. Not my kind of look but I think this group would love it. I won't get a chance to see him until Friday or Friday next week but I'll try to get a pic or two.
Dusty

Parisbrom
01-21-2018, 9:51 PM
Yes please post a pic.

Does linseed oil allow a light rust?

Deff agree that metal has to be clean as it can be though. Acetone it till the rag comes off clean. Also after that the torch will burn off any residue before paint or wax

53Bash
01-22-2018, 12:35 AM
In my experience yes, linseed allows some light rust, but prevents a full bloom. Could be how I did mine doesn't provide as much protection as it would otherwise.

Linseed oil also has a yellow / brown tinge that makes it look more weathered and rusted than it really is & kills normal metalic highlights. Its not what you'd pick if you want a clean, shiny metal like clear coat allows, but works great if you want a grungy look.

One advantage it has is you can touch it up super easy, and don't really need to do any prep before application.

Here's an example; the fork was coated with linseed a year ago after 2+ years sitting on the rack before fab work, has mostly been inside but climate is humid. Metal was never really cleaned beyond what was needed to weld it. That's another thing I like about linseed - it can go OVER rust and still bond properly (or as well as it ever does).

The fender got fabbed today, so is freshly wire brushed / sanded (at least some parts).

https://i.imgur.com/5FhioMX.jpg

Parisbrom
01-22-2018, 8:24 AM
awesome! i will try this as well. very nice amount of patina. totally agree that any oil application would be better for touch up and applying right over the metal/previous rust, looks like it soaks in good without sanding or scotch brite too.

tzienlee
01-22-2018, 9:39 AM
Personally I hate the phony patina and forced rust look that some kids are into today,...
It shows lack of pride in your bike, or cheapness in not wanting to finish a bike properly.
or the lack of Skills to do a decent paint job and the refusal to learn how to do it,
we are only able to ride Vintage bikes, Harleys, Injuns, BSA's Triumphs Nortons' Vincents etc etc etc
Because our forefathers LOOKED AFTER their bikes, they polished them, They Waxed Them,
They re-painted them, when needed they even re-chromed them,...
where do you really thing a rusty POS is going to be in another 50 years ??...
they will be Razor Blades in 10 years I'd bet,....
if you like the old used, rusty, ''Patinad'' look, why not do the bike up nice with decent paint to start with,...
& Then ride them for 20-30-50-100,00 miles without cleaning them & get REAL old & earned ''Patina''.
this is just my opinion on something that really winds me up,... my $00,02 worth anyhow !!....... RANT OVER,...

53Bash
01-22-2018, 4:57 PM
we are only able to ride Vintage bikes, Harleys, Injuns, BSA's Triumphs Nortons' Vincents etc etc etc Because our forefathers LOOKED AFTER their bikes, they polished them, They Waxed Them,
They re-painted them, when needed they even re-chromed them,...

Or, at least as often, because they didn't ride them, maybe because they were NOT cared for. Barn finds, "parked in corner of the shop needs X repair", collectors bikes, un-opened dealer crates, etc. In the case of a Vincent, you can buy all the parts to build a new one, and 95% of the time that (or damn near) is what somebody is actually riding. And good thing nobody was hacking the frames up to make choppers...

There's also a hell of a big difference between knocking together something like a sissy bar or fender on your own and letting it get some surface rust because yeah, you really don't care (and can make another even better if you do), and having bits flaking off a vintage frame.

TBH, if you both want to ride something, and need it well protected, clear coverage of any sort is probably a bad choice. The requirement that something be clear and colorless is at odds with the requirement that it have optimal adhesion and rust prevention properties.

DustyDave
02-10-2018, 8:56 PM
A friend did his pan frame by heating it with a propane torch and brushing it with a brass brush then reheating it and rubbing with commercial floor wax. Not my kind of look but I think this group would love it. I won't get a chance to see him until Friday or Friday next week but I'll try to get a pic or two.
Dusty

Thttps://photos.app.goo.gl/Bp6yebIGDJRsB19F2 The Hopper was supposed to send several pictures but this from when he built it is all that made it.
Dusty

SamHain
02-10-2018, 9:46 PM
Personally I hate the phony patina and forced rust look that some kids are into today,...
It shows lack of pride in your bike, or cheapness in not wanting to finish a bike properly.
or the lack of Skills to do a decent paint job and the refusal to learn how to do it,
we are only able to ride Vintage bikes, Harleys, Injuns, BSA's Triumphs Nortons' Vincents etc etc etc
Because our forefathers LOOKED AFTER their bikes, they polished them, They Waxed Them,
They re-painted them, when needed they even re-chromed them,...
where do you really thing a rusty POS is going to be in another 50 years ??...
they will be Razor Blades in 10 years I'd bet,....
if you like the old used, rusty, ''Patinad'' look, why not do the bike up nice with decent paint to start with,...
& Then ride them for 20-30-50-100,00 miles without cleaning them & get REAL old & earned ''Patina''.
this is just my opinion on something that really winds me up,... my $00,02 worth anyhow !!....... RANT OVER,...

Today's paint is shit. Will never age like some good ol lead single stage. Fake patina ain't for me, but I can understand it to get a matched set or touch up on rust repair.

Now bare metal patinas at a much faster rate and that ain't fake, showing off metal work doesn't bother me a bit, real body work...
clear over original paint pisses me off, as it's just going to rust, bubble and annihilate a fucking cool piece of history that survived so many idiots. Then over bare metal, who cares strip it and start over, when it fails.

1234567
02-11-2018, 11:20 AM
81615

seaking
02-13-2018, 9:49 AM
Today's paint is shit. Will never age like some good ol lead single stage. Fake patina ain't for me, but I can understand it to get a matched set or touch up on rust repair.

Now bare metal patinas at a much faster rate and that ain't fake, showing off metal work doesn't bother me a bit, real body work...
clear over original paint pisses me off, as it's just going to rust, bubble and annihilate a fucking cool piece of history that survived so many idiots. Then over bare metal, who cares strip it and start over, when it fails.


They still make single stage lacquer.

Tattooo
02-13-2018, 4:52 PM
81615

I don't understand that fad myself..........

DustyDave
08-01-2018, 12:32 PM
Thttps://photos.app.goo.gl/Bp6yebIGDJRsB19F2 The Hopper was supposed to send several pictures but this from when he built it is all that made it.
Dusty

Here it is finished
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