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JuanCarlito
05-14-2015, 1:48 AM
Bike: 1979 Honda CB650 running pod filters and a basically open exhaust (does have mini baffles, and some steel wool packing but I don't think they do much lol)
Carbs: Keihin PD50A mechanical slides with drilled out jets.
Question: I need to know which direction to go with the jetting....yes the stock air box would help. Yes proper exhaust would help. But thats not what I have to work with lol. Currently my floats are set to stock height (I think) and the idle adjustment screws are 2 turns out. Slow jet has been drilled to aprx. a #42 (hard to tell exactly) and the mains are aprx. #118. Now, bike starts up really easy needing very little choke which I can shut off very quickly. Idles awesome around 1000rpm or slightly lower. Has decent response from idle till about 1/2 throttle....At which point if I try to crack it open it has major hesitation and stumbles. So....do I need to keep going up in jet size until it makes a difference OR go back to smaller sizes? Also, If it starts super easy with almost no choke, is my idle jet to large and therefore too rich as well??
Thanks

*Note: I am only drilling out jets to get close idea. I want to order proper new ones when I think I know the correct size so I am not spending a fortune on multiple sizes to test*

Sky
05-14-2015, 5:40 AM
Try riding in the upper range with the enricher pulled. even just halfway.
As long as choke plates aren't involved it'll tell you if it likes more gas or not.

JuanCarlito
05-14-2015, 11:53 PM
Try riding in the upper range with the enricher pulled. even just halfway.
As long as choke plates aren't involved it'll tell you if it likes more gas or not.

Well, being the noob I am .... I am not sure what you mean by the enricher? I did take it out tonight and try riding and pulling the choke out slowly....as soon as I did it started to hesitate and stumble...If I tried to open up the throttle with any more than maybe 1/4 choke it died completely. Does that tell anyone anything as to where I stand?
Also I paid more attention to the rpm rather than throttle position tonight...great response from 1000 to 3000....then bogs down and stumbles from 3000 to 3500ish...then it feels like you hit a power boost till just past 4000....everything after 4000 on was stumbling and/or basically non responsive!
Maybe I need a proper mechanic lol

JetBlackII
05-15-2015, 12:25 AM
As for jetting; the main only takes over once the needle is held at WOT... so being you get a stutter at half throttle it's not the main. Seeing how you are rich on the idle but it idles fine? It's not that circuit either... leaving just the main needle jet or float heights at fault... barring electrical or fuel starvation issues, aside from the tank not flowing and filling the bowls... that leaves the accelerator pump not doing it's job to fuel on demand.

You can do the clear hose trick on the float bowl drains to check your float heights... the heights are important and can cause your stumble business. Your accelerator pump could also be faulty as it gives a bump in fuel flow into the cylinder as the bowls are filling up... if it's not working properly needless to say it can act like it's running out of gas and buck around... but in the mid range 1/2 throttle the main needle jet is the typical fault. Starting with little or no choke means you are rich, which is better than lean, lean drys out a motor and rich lubes it up a bit better although it can also carbon the shit out of things and eat the plugs from fouling leading to misfires.

I ran into this issue on my motor swap, I'm currently in the rich range and I get a bog if I whack the throttle to quick, my slides can't respond fast enough... but I'm getting twice the mpg not being able to whack the throttle and get the instant response in every throttle range I'm used too, I haven't put much time into dialing the slides in yet because of that :p The bucking stumbling shit is not fun, especially if you're trying to dial carbs in with heavy fast traffic on your street like mine is.

Carbs have 3 stages, idle, mid, and wot... all 3 of these can be either too rich or too lean. Your idle is rich because of the choke behavior... I bet if you pull the plugs they will be black and sooty as fuck from the starting richness fouling and carbonating everything up. I suggest dropping your needle a clip(up a notch) clean up your plugs and see what it does, if it gets worse the go down from there 2 notches and see if it gets better. You're trying to combat a lean condition with the steel wool stuff in there... take that shit out of there, the big fucking metal pot scrubber shit is best if anyone is going that route, as steel wool is too fine and breaks off too easy... you're just going to be pulling tiny meta wire through your carb and into the cylinder with that business...

pods, depending on the brand they can block off vital ports on the back of the carb that need air to flow through those ports... below is an example of this.

http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae106/werwin/GS%20Cafe/IMG_3091_zps4afd230e.jpg

http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae106/werwin/GS%20Cafe/IMG_3090_zpsbba4a5d6.jpg

If the needle clip positioning and float height is on point doesn't fix it... a poor battery ground or loose connection, clogged tank vent/fuel starvation, and misfire as the coils heat up, timing off not set right/broken rotor key/sticky timing advance. Those are very common culprits that act like a carb issue.

A note about float height, this is set from the factory, for their set it to run lean on air business and often the most overlooked on carb modifications... a +/- 1mm to the stock height and a/f screw adjustment is usually all it takes to run shit open and unrestricted... many people focus on jetting and typically only focus on the main when opening things up... which has almost zero effect on idle or mid as far as size is concerned. You are trying to achieve a good fuel to air ratio with carbs so the engine performs at it's peak when opening shit up... in my experience, mpg takes a huge hit and so does the life of your motor with these modifications, if not dialed in at a near perfect ratio... a lot of bikes out there are running too lean or too rich from these mods... so make sure to read your plugs, even if shit "feels" right on the throttle if you want to ride a bit farther and trouble free.

JuanCarlito
05-15-2015, 9:03 PM
As for jetting; the main only takes over once the needle is held at WOT... so being you get a stutter at half throttle it's not the main. Seeing how you are rich on the idle but it idles fine? It's not that circuit either... leaving just the main needle jet or float heights at fault... barring electrical or fuel starvation issues, aside from the tank not flowing and filling the bowls... that leaves the accelerator pump not doing it's job to fuel on demand.

You can do the clear hose trick on the float bowl drains to check your float heights... the heights are important and can cause your stumble business. Your accelerator pump could also be faulty as it gives a bump in fuel flow into the cylinder as the bowls are filling up... if it's not working properly needless to say it can act like it's running out of gas and buck around... but in the mid range 1/2 throttle the main needle jet is the typical fault. Starting with little or no choke means you are rich, which is better than lean, lean drys out a motor and rich lubes it up a bit better although it can also carbon the shit out of things and eat the plugs from fouling leading to misfires.

I ran into this issue on my motor swap, I'm currently in the rich range and I get a bog if I whack the throttle to quick, my slides can't respond fast enough... but I'm getting twice the mpg not being able to whack the throttle and get the instant response in every throttle range I'm used too, I haven't put much time into dialing the slides in yet because of that :p The bucking stumbling shit is not fun, especially if you're trying to dial carbs in with heavy fast traffic on your street like mine is.

Carbs have 3 stages, idle, mid, and wot... all 3 of these can be either too rich or too lean. Your idle is rich because of the choke behavior... I bet if you pull the plugs they will be black and sooty as fuck from the starting richness fouling and carbonating everything up. I suggest dropping your needle a clip(up a notch) clean up your plugs and see what it does, if it gets worse the go down from there 2 notches and see if it gets better. You're trying to combat a lean condition with the steel wool stuff in there... take that shit out of there, the big fucking metal pot scrubber shit is best if anyone is going that route, as steel wool is too fine and breaks off too easy... you're just going to be pulling tiny meta wire through your carb and into the cylinder with that business...

pods, depending on the brand they can block off vital ports on the back of the carb that need air to flow through those ports... below is an example of this.

http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae106/werwin/GS%20Cafe/IMG_3091_zps4afd230e.jpg

http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae106/werwin/GS%20Cafe/IMG_3090_zpsbba4a5d6.jpg

If the needle clip positioning and float height is on point doesn't fix it... a poor battery ground or loose connection, clogged tank vent/fuel starvation, and misfire as the coils heat up, timing off not set right/broken rotor key/sticky timing advance. Those are very common culprits that act like a carb issue.

A note about float height, this is set from the factory, for their set it to run lean on air business and often the most overlooked on carb modifications... a +/- 1mm to the stock height and a/f screw adjustment is usually all it takes to run shit open and unrestricted... many people focus on jetting and typically only focus on the main when opening things up... which has almost zero effect on idle or mid as far as size is concerned. You are trying to achieve a good fuel to air ratio with carbs so the engine performs at it's peak when opening shit up... in my experience, mpg takes a huge hit and so does the life of your motor with these modifications, if not dialed in at a near perfect ratio... a lot of bikes out there are running too lean or too rich from these mods... so make sure to read your plugs, even if shit "feels" right on the throttle if you want to ride a bit farther and trouble free.

AWESOME! Just made note pad full of maybes to check from this post.....back to the shop! Thanks again JetBlack!!

JuanCarlito
05-16-2015, 2:06 AM
Well.....Took the pods right off and zip tied some fabric over the air intakes to keep out debris and took er for a ride to see if the pods where restricting any ports...ran like SHIT! That was not the problem lol. But then I decided when I got home to drain the carbs individually into glass jars and compare how much fuel came out....They were close at 1 and 2. and 2 was close to 3. But 4 was low and none were actually the exact same...SO I checked the manual and cut out a measuring tool and set the floats to .50 in as suggested.And then I had an idea.... I changed out my modified main jets and put in the stock set again....then I re installed the stock air box and re lubed a sticky throttle cable so the throttle actually snapped back to close instead of sticking slightly open :p I also set the idle adjuster screws to 2 turns out as a starting point. The only thing I can't do that I want to is replace the stock idle jets . . . I don't have another set. . . So in theory everything should be far more balanced now. The idle jet circuit will still be rich clearly but hopefully I will be back at a good base to start tuning from. I did roll it out of the shop and start it up. Still required little to no choke, but was still slightly warm from previous test ride. Still idled well around 1000rpm and if I tried to crack it open really fast it stumbled a little, but if I eased it up in throttle I was able to get up to 5000rpm without an issue. I stopped there as it's 1am and the family is asleep and seeing as I have cut off exhaust I don't want my wife and neighbours planning my accidental death lol
Hoping to get a quick test ride in tomorrow and see where I'm at! Who knows if I am really lucky maybe I can find somewhere or someone who has a set of idle jest I can grab, then as JetBlack had said I could probably get it tuned with a simple needle shim and float adjustment. Fingers crossed!!!

Oh and JetBlack the steel wool was in the pipes to dampen the sound a little until I get a new set of shorty mufflers or a new exhaust set. I like the loud pipes but not "hello officer" loud ;)

JetBlackII
05-16-2015, 7:50 PM
Oh you had the steel wool in the exhaust... I thought you had the pods stuffed with that shit. I know pulling carbs off and on suck ass, it's the worst part about dialing them in. Are your carbs on it CV's or mechanical slide? I was web hopping around seeing if I could see some CB650 carbs and notice they switched it up in production. CV's and a free flowing open intake do not get along very well because of the vacuum pressure required to raise the slides... a bank of 4 carbs though and different bowl levels of fuel means they likely need to be sync'd to get the proper vacuum in all the carbs so they all fill up right... one of the boards I found a picture on said they run emgo pods the middle 2 need trimming to clear some shit glue etc. but most said they were running pods fine with a main anywhere from 95-102 and the pilot 42-45 with a stock float height... no mention of the needle, though they also said it wasn't exactly a smooth throttle transition either especially the first 10 minutes ti it warmed up.

It sounds like they are going by the standard pod rule of thumb since they are changing out both jets... up 3 mains from stock with a single bump in the pilot sounds about right from their numbers. This standard requires more tweaking if you have a CV carb though, because air raises the slides not the cable... so knowing what carb bank you have on it will certainly help dial em in quicker. Drilling out the jets is not something I personally recommend as it's easy to fuck up and have no idea what size it actually is, especially if there's a slight off center wobble in the drill chuck or tiny bend in the bit(common).

Here's where I get my jets http://www.z1enterprises.com/ typically less than 2 bucks each per jet... I'd personally hit up some boards using a browser search for "CB650 pod jetting" in quotes like that and write down all the jetting numbers people are using and see which numbers pop up most frequently and get those as the jets when ordering... no reason to blaze the same trail in trial and error when many have already pulled the carbs off 100 times for you figuring it out ;)

JuanCarlito
05-17-2015, 9:36 AM
Oh you had the steel wool in the exhaust... I thought you had the pods stuffed with that shit. I know pulling carbs off and on suck ass, it's the worst part about dialing them in. Are your carbs on it CV's or mechanical slide? I was web hopping around seeing if I could see some CB650 carbs and notice they switched it up in production. CV's and a free flowing open intake do not get along very well because of the vacuum pressure required to raise the slides... a bank of 4 carbs though and different bowl levels of fuel means they likely need to be sync'd to get the proper vacuum in all the carbs so they all fill up right... one of the boards I found a picture on said they run emgo pods the middle 2 need trimming to clear some shit glue etc. but most said they were running pods fine with a main anywhere from 95-102 and the pilot 42-45 with a stock float height... no mention of the needle, though they also said it wasn't exactly a smooth throttle transition either especially the first 10 minutes ti it warmed up.

It sounds like they are going by the standard pod rule of thumb since they are changing out both jets... up 3 mains from stock with a single bump in the pilot sounds about right from their numbers. This standard requires more tweaking if you have a CV carb though, because air raises the slides not the cable... so knowing what carb bank you have on it will certainly help dial em in quicker. Drilling out the jets is not something I personally recommend as it's easy to fuck up and have no idea what size it actually is, especially if there's a slight off center wobble in the drill chuck or tiny bend in the bit(common).

Here's where I get my jets http://www.z1enterprises.com/ typically less than 2 bucks each per jet... I'd personally hit up some boards using a browser search for "CB650 pod jetting" in quotes like that and write down all the jetting numbers people are using and see which numbers pop up most frequently and get those as the jets when ordering... no reason to blaze the same trail in trial and error when many have already pulled the carbs off 100 times for you figuring it out ;)

They are mechanical slide carbs (Keihin PD50a style) and nobody mentions shimming the needle on them because getting the needle out in the first place is a pain in the ass!!! And once you do you'll discover they were not meant for mods...no needle clip position or anything.
Now, I need take the bike for another test run with the stock air filter, stock float heights, and stock main...Idle jet is still larger..and the bike responded better. Still has the midrange to wot problem but makes it to about 4500/5000 RPM before stuttering. I still have to check the plugs and see what kind of read the new set up gives. Then I'm thinking of putting in the modified main jets again and seeing if that makes things better or worse both in throttle response and plug read. Then hopefully I'll know if the problem is fuel related at least in relation to the main jets....If not I am sure the carbs need to be synced properly but I don't have a vacuum sync tool. Also I have not checked the ignition/electrical system properly yet. I know all plugs have a decent spark and fire consistently but not sure about the strength of spark and/or timing etc.
I'll check out that z1 site for sure as I looked on JetsRus and after shipping etc it would cost over $60 for the jets lol...plus some border crossing charge I'm sure.

junkman
05-17-2015, 12:25 PM
Open the air fuel screws up. You said you had them set to 2 turns out. That's not enough. Open to 2.5 turns and see if it gets better. If so open them 1/8 turn and see if gets better. Open or close 1/8 turn at a time until you get it dialed in.

JuanCarlito
05-18-2015, 12:30 AM
Open the air fuel screws up. You said you had them set to 2 turns out. That's not enough. Open to 2.5 turns and see if it gets better. If so open them 1/8 turn and see if gets better. Open or close 1/8 turn at a time until you get it dialed in.

I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.

Dpratt07
05-18-2015, 8:05 AM
an easy way to check which way you need to go is pulling the spark plugs and see if they are black and sooty or burned clean.

Black and sooty=too rich

Too clean = lean

JuanCarlito
05-20-2015, 3:40 AM
an easy way to check which way you need to go is pulling the spark plugs and see if they are black and sooty or burned clean.

Black and sooty=too rich

Too clean = lean

Does this work if there is basically nothing happening when I open up the throttle? My assumption would be I would get a false reading if the bike wasn't at least trying to accelerate etc at the appropriate throttle setting

DavoCycle
05-20-2015, 10:22 AM
If not I am sure the carbs need to be synced properly but I don't have a vacuum sync tool.

Did you bench sync them? Should get you close enough, then instead of buying a 4-carb sync tool you can make your own on the cheap using clear tube and oil. (google cheap carb sync)

JuanCarlito
05-20-2015, 12:35 PM
Did you bench sync them? Should get you close enough, then instead of buying a 4-carb sync tool you can make your own on the cheap using clear tube and oil. (google cheap carb sync)

To be honest I am not 100% sure how to bench sync mechanical carbs. Joys of having that "noob" title lol

teamcurtis
05-20-2015, 12:43 PM
http://forums.sohc4.net/

these boys will take care of you....
i lived on that forum when i had my cb350f

JuanCarlito
05-22-2015, 3:24 AM
http://forums.sohc4.net/

these boys will take care of you....
i lived on that forum when i had my cb350f

I have active threads on there :) BUT as of tomorrow or Sunday this problem should be fixed . . . and a whole new bag will be opened :p

JuanCarlito
05-29-2015, 3:42 AM
:banghead: SHOOT ME! :banghead:
When should someone with very little know how call it quits and just hire someone to finish the damn job!! After researching further and watching youtube videos for a few days etc, I bench synced my carbs as best I could going off the baseline carb suggested in the manual, double checked and adjusted the accelerator pump, re set the slow idle adjustment and the idle screw, and have been playing with the idle/fuel screw adjustments and it seems nothing is working! I still have ok response in the lower RPMS/throttle position, but if I try and crack the throttle open full its got nothing!! Like the bike doesn't die and stall out, but it has no power and starts to slow down until I let off the throttle to the last position of acceleration, then it kicks right back in and starts going.
I am guessing that it's probably not a fuel/air issue at this point and instead something more advanced like ignition timing or something along those lines which I am really not good with (any thing electrical) so unless some one out there has some more suggestions for me . . . . Perhaps it is finally time to admit defeat and take it to a REAL mechanic. Was really hoping to accomplish this all by doing the work myself, but at this point I am just getting frustrated.

I can promise one thing though . . . my next bike . . . is going to be a V twin style bike with only TWO CARBS and then I will try and figure out if its possible to modify that into a single carb cause I am done with this bank of four BS LOL

Thanks in advance for any more help and all the help up until this point.

JetBlackII
05-29-2015, 1:26 PM
You having to back off the throttle for it to catch... because when you get hard on the throttle it's too much too soon... as a carb issue this points to the needle... as a mechanical issue it points to the clutch, it should be adjusted where you can sit and rock the bike back and forth at idle(no throttle) simply easing on and off the lever a tad.

If you have a wet clutch what kind of oil and what weight is it you are running? Friction modifiers in many oils are not wet clutch compatible and can cause the plates to slip instead of grab. The slipping and grabbing can equate to jerking as the clutch plates grab/slip/grab... if it is a dry clutch, this can occur if the plates are worn, bent, or out of order. Shell Rotella is a wet clutch friendly oil, in that it doesn't have any friction modifiers that could cause the clutch plates to slip.

It's obviously, a power transmission issue... as the power plant itself seems fine. Power transmission from the front sprocket to the rear, typically is either carb settings, clutch or drive line(chain/sprockets/sprocket shaft/hubs. Where the stutter or flat spot occurs can help define where the issue is... when you said in mid range? On a carb that means the needle jet or float height height... in the clutch as described above, in the drive line; it's a loose chain or belt a 1 inch push up from the bottom center of chain or belt is typical for the adjustment... if too loose it gets a bouncing resonance that causes the motor to work against itself... this is typically seen as a rhythmic lag grab that matches the amount it is out of adjustment at steady throttle/cruise. If the chain gets too far out there... like in the stretch of a rigid frame or longer swing arm a tensioner is required to prevent that harmonic bounce.

Your bike starts and stays running... so I doubt it's an ignition issue unless the bike is cutting out and restarting due to momentum like when you bump start... That translates as a loss of power at speed and the bike starts again, this is much like a miss fire on a cylinder... but more rhythmic but not as rhythmic as chain bounce. Misfiring that keeps dumping fuel in absence of spark? Air is easier to compress than fluid so it starts causing the motor to work against itself in that cylinder... it's difficult to plug read if you don't plug chop it for readings, as fuel can wash the insulator... but it typically is pretty black if it keeps being ran under such conditions. All plugs should look the same or pretty close to rule out misfiring, but it doesn't rule out when the whole thing loses power and catches again because it is a misfire on all cylinders making them appear the same.

A combination of any of the above faults can add up to a real head scratcher, because they all have similar symptoms... add a couple of faults together that produce similar symptoms and it can get really fucking hard to diagnose exactly what it is at fault, so we focus on one system ignoring the rest that can cause the same/similar symptoms; In such cases... it's a good idea to make sure to eliminate those systems out of the equation... meaning check the chain/belt tension, adjust the clutch properly(rocking bidness) with proper oil(for wet clutches) in it... to help rule those out out the equation. If the problem disappears... after going over one? Great, if not keep knocking out things that can cause the same issue starting with easiest first to minimize your frustration.

You have one of the hardest issues to pin down going on because, there are several systems that can cause this issue... pretty sure I covered them all, so whittle at each system as mentioned until you narrow it down starting with the quicker checks and adjustment that can be made, if the problem persists after adjusting the chain or clutch? You can prevent compounded frustration, by looking at the work you did as regular required maintenance instead of trying to solve an issue.

But it's either, the needle jet, float height, clutch adjustment/plates, misfire, ignition cutting out, chain adjustment or a combo of any of those causing the over all issue becoming hard to pin down by focusing on just one system as the issue instead of a compounded one.

JuanCarlito
05-31-2015, 3:48 AM
Question . . . If the slow jet is too large causing a rich circuit would that effect the other circuits or do they run independently of each other? I had a thought today that perhaps my slow jet is too large/rich hence the easy start up etc so when I try and crank open the throttle the combined circuits are just far to rich and cause the throttle response issue, then when I let off the throttle and in theory restrict fuel back down to the slow jet circuit the bikes able to "catch up" and accelerate again?
Have I officially gone mad or am I onto a possibility? I feel like these issues started after playing with the jesting but A) can't remember for certain and B) never really tried to go full throttle before due to lack of helmet and brakes lol

Dieselchanic
05-31-2015, 8:58 AM
I don't want to contradict anything anyone has said, but on my sohc750 I had a timing issue and it acted similar to what you're describing. It would start and idle beautiful, but wouldn't rev out very well, and put under a load it would pretty much fall flat. You could ride it by working the throttle back and forth and whatnot... I pulled the advance apart and lubed it and timed it with a timing light. Problem fixed. If you have not set your timing with a light, I suggest you do that. Since it only needs high idle to time it, it should be simple to do and then we could rule that out. I'm having a problem believing it's still a carb issue with what you've already been through, since you can have your carbs quite out of tune and it will still get up and go. Thousands of hack jobs are on the streets to prove that..

JuanCarlito
06-01-2015, 1:33 AM
OK . . . Did I make a difference?
I read everyones comments and suggestions etc, read other threads and forums for people with similar issues an tried to go through and adjust what I could...
Clutch- Havent ruled this out yet but not sure its a factor. I am able to engage the clutch and release to rock the bike as suggested and I don't feel any jerking or anything that makes me think the clutch is slipping. But if there is no change I will go back to this.
Chain- Seems to be within the guidelines based on the shop manual, so didn't play with it at all.
Ignition- I haven't started messing around here yet, but when I test ride if it cuts out again as before I am going to pull the clutch and try revving to see if the bike still has power or is indeed "bump starting" itself when I roll back off the throttle. If the problem is still there I will also go back to this and check the timing with a light and make sure everything there is working.
Carbs- I did mess about with the carbs some more just to rule things out there as I have gotten pretty good at taking them off the bike and tinkering lol. So, at this point I have bench synced them based on the #2 carb as the manual said. Re checked the float heights and set them to factory setting (or close as I could),filled and drained each bowl into glass jars to compare fuel levels (good), re cleaned all the jets and blew compressed air through all lines to make sure they are still clear, adjusted and tested the accelerator pump (working) , re set the idle mixture screws (only 1 turn out to start to compensate for the overly rich slow jet) and as of tonight removed all slides and added a single washer as a shim to the needles as these particular carbs have only one setting on the needles clip.....
SO, as for carbs if this is the problem I should at least see some change now right? lol And if not then I will go back and check the clutch and the timing etc. Also will test the electrical system from charging to spark and see if anything comes up. But guy feeling is thats not it as I have not had any problems with charging the bike, starting, and every time I check the spark plugs for spark they all have strong spark and are working in a sequence, which I assume is the right sequence based on tracing cables paths etc, could be wrong.
I am really hoping I made some progress though because as I drove home from work Friday night my truck blew up on me and is now in the shop until further notice :( My guess is money is about to get tight so pretty sure bikes going to sit as is for awhile either way. Probably order new jets though if anyone has good suggestions as where to order from that ships to Canada. I know of JetsRUs but they are a little pricey to sip my way.
Taking a lot of willpower to leave it at this post for now and save the test ride for after work tomorrow....so on that note....STAY TUNED!

JuanCarlito
06-03-2015, 8:32 PM
Still have work to do . . .
Anyone have a good place to order new jets from in Canada?

JuanCarlito
06-07-2015, 2:51 AM
A.T.U
Those three little letters may have just made all the difference in the world to my bikes running potential! Thank you Dieselchanic for your input and suggestion to look further into the timing. When I finally did start poking around I discovered that my Automatic Timing Unit was seized up. So some good cleaning and lube and now it seems to be working! 1:51am here now so time for a quick few hours sleep, and then . . . . I test it out one more time! This time I have high hopes. We might finally have a fully operational 1979 CB650 Bobber/Brat thing lol
Stay Tuned!

JuanCarlito
06-09-2015, 12:19 AM
FUCK YEA!!!
First off huge thank you to everyone who posted any tips or advice on this thread or my actual build thread! Thanks to all your suggestions, some youtube hours, and the Haynes and shop manuals . . . . WE have a running 1979 CB650 Brat/Bobber thing!!!

After my last post I ended up test firing the bike Sunday morning. Started up as normal except I needed just a little choke at first (I re jetted the slow jets to a 38) but still fired right up. Idle and rev seemed the same but seemed like I could crank the throttle a little more than before. So I figured wtf I'll give it a shot. Put it in first, pointed her down the road and accelerated. All was normal. . . . Until I got to the point she usually died . . . then I cranked on the throttle and to surprise she surged forward!! So shifted to second and BAM still pulling . . . third . . . still pulling . . . .I better go get my helmet lol
After some chores were done and I had a little free time, my dad and I decided to take her for a test run on the highway. My first time riding a bike on the highway....my first time riding with my dad....and the first time riding a bike that I brought back from the dead and achieved my goal of learning a bit about motorcycles! Needless to say . . . It was an awesome day! Bike handles real nice minus the from suspension being a little soft, will upgrade to progressive shocks I think. Was able to accelerate through all the gears and all throttle positions and could easily keep up with my dad on his Virago 750. All the lights work, signals work, even the extremely manly horn works lol Meep Meep
And after all the fussing with the carbs and trying to fix a problem that turned out to be a 15 minute clean and lube job of the ATU I lucked out! Check the plugs when I got home and they were all a nice golden tan except #3 which was a little rich, but I expected that as I just replaced the float and valve seat and just eyeballed the level. (for those interested I have Keihin PD50a carbs, k&n style pods, 118ish drilled mains, 38 slow, a 1 washer shim on the needles, working air cut off and accelerator pump, and cut off exhaust with simple canadian tire turn down tips and a set of TCbros mini baffles installed)
Now that I know she's running good. upgrades planed are :
+Progressive suspension up front.
+New tires
+Possible hard tail
+Clean and polish stuff
+New paint
+New grips and throttle mechanism
+Maybe move the ignition, kill switch, etc
+Nice solo seat and a sissy bar just cause!
Will be updating my actual build thread again with some photos and videos I haven't uploaded yet as well as the changes as they come. Feeling motivated again and feel as if I have a much greater respect for the build process now. Ups and downs, good days and bad . . . in the end, after all the busted knuckles, laughs with friends, strung together curse words to form a new sentence while working alone...Eventually.....You get to start your bike....feel it come to life under you....and feel the wind in your face!