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Tstang429
04-10-2015, 8:47 AM
Hi all. came on here found some great info on the board thought id join and log my conversion. I purchased a running driving 1987 Kawaski 454 ltd for 250 bucks. Starting off on doing basic maintenance and fixing little things from the previous owners. Plan is to convert to a single seat bobber style bike.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Mobile%20Uploads/20150404_130703_zpsp0dlzukb.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150404_130703_zpsp0dlzukb.jpg.html)
Found first gem from previous owner. some people should not be allowed to have tools.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/20150408_200037_zpsrde9enfp.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/20150408_200037_zpsrde9enfp.jpg.html)

Wolfie
04-27-2015, 5:47 PM
The 454 screams for a hardtail conversion....I had one for flipping....I drew up a frame mod, its cake....and the fact that its belt driven, makes it easier to change the final drive ratio (I shouldda kept that bike)....

,,,If ya wanna bob it, ya need to strip it bare, cut off all the bullshit tabs for the plastic covers and shit, then weld in a hardtail....once ya do that, the rest will come to ya naturally, I hope....trailer rear flat fender (TractorSupply has em cheap !)....solo seat with P Pad....upswept exhaust....the 454 is a sweet bike to mod....its already halfway there.....

Wolfie
04-27-2015, 6:13 PM
.... http://xae.xanga.com/731f902309031283621435/w226206420.jpg

...this is the 454 I started....an easy convert to a hardtail.....

Tstang429
04-27-2015, 8:15 PM
I have been working on general maintaince. Did the valves. flushed coolant fixed those wires with good solid solder joints and removal of the splice connectors. Tested the cooling fan. Found a fender for 25 bucks a custom chrome flat fender.

Tstang429
06-04-2015, 8:24 PM
Side mount plate
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/20150509_212700_zpshckdbavb.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/20150509_212700_zpshckdbavb.jpg.html)
savage shocks installed lowering back two inches
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/20150509_210800_zpslusmqyyu.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/20150509_210800_zpslusmqyyu.jpg.html)
Tinted turns removed factory tail light and inner fender
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/20150516_234452_zpsutfm1ri1.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/20150516_234452_zpsutfm1ri1.jpg.html)
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/20150516_222738_zpssvkuphwf.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/20150516_222738_zpssvkuphwf.jpg.html)
Ride to hell Michigan and new center tail light installed
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/tail_zpswz38l56z.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/tail_zpswz38l56z.jpg.html)
Tinted the center light
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/20150604_214146_zpsz8s6a8nu.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/20150604_214146_zpsz8s6a8nu.jpg.html)

Tstang429
08-05-2015, 8:44 PM
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/3E1E992E-A522-42D1-8992-5AF7A1A5A41A_zps0vjvxiyi.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/3E1E992E-A522-42D1-8992-5AF7A1A5A41A_zps0vjvxiyi.jpg.html)
Rattle canned the tank im happy with how it came out.

JetBlackII
08-05-2015, 10:08 PM
Found first gem from previous owner. some people should not be allowed to have tools.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/20150408_200037_zpsrde9enfp.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/20150408_200037_zpsrde9enfp.jpg.html)

Understandable, to directly wire in the fan switch on these things as that is what it looks like... these things can get pretty hotblooded because the radiator absolutely blows on this thing and changing out a head gasket is not exactly fun on this model at all... had no idea Wolfie had one of these things too... wonder where he is these days.

Looks like you are upgrading stock sort of components for your customization, if the rear is still a tad too high then some CMX 400+ shocks work fine and are 10" eye to eye... that of course puts the center stand right on the belt, which would need to be removed or modified to clear it.

Very fun bike in my personal experience of having one as a daily... mine is very far from stock nowadays.

Tstang429
08-06-2015, 12:33 AM
I wanted to do a trailer rear fender. But I am just not talented as a to get it to fit and be happy. The one I got is just not the right radius. I thought of going up to a local shop that's having a fender blow out and just sitting there with my bike with no fender till we found one that I like. At the same point I see so many bobbers I like the semi modded look. a little stock a little mismatch.
Those wires where the kick stand switch and nutruel light. I removed the kickstand switch all together. Then ran new wires for the light. Easy fix no clue why he did such a bad patch.
I got a set of handle bars for it and they are just to narrow the cost of getting them to fit is not worth it so I need to sell them so i can get another set,. this time im getting a set of biltwell Keystones.
I am not a fabricator nor have means to do any wellding. So all my work needs to be bolt on. I can massage stuff to fit just cant weld anything. That side mount was real easy to make. Sheet metal and a grinding wheel. I am already thinking of removing the center stand cause even the little bit i dropped it I need blocks to get it up high enough to use the stand. Might as well just get a jack and toss that heavy stand.

JetBlackII
08-06-2015, 4:45 PM
I wanted to do a trailer rear fender. But I am just not talented as a to get it to fit and be happy. The one I got is just not the right radius. I thought of going up to a local shop that's having a fender blow out and just sitting there with my bike with no fender till we found one that I like. At the same point I see so many bobbers I like the semi modded look. a little stock a little mismatch.
Those wires where the kick stand switch and nutruel light. I removed the kickstand switch all together. Then ran new wires for the light. Easy fix no clue why he did such a bad patch.
I got a set of handle bars for it and they are just to narrow the cost of getting them to fit is not worth it so I need to sell them so i can get another set,. this time im getting a set of biltwell Keystones.
I am not a fabricator nor have means to do any wellding. So all my work needs to be bolt on. I can massage stuff to fit just cant weld anything. That side mount was real easy to make. Sheet metal and a grinding wheel. I am already thinking of removing the center stand cause even the little bit i dropped it I need blocks to get it up high enough to use the stand. Might as well just get a jack and toss that heavy stand.

The fender I put on mine is 10" wide, it could have went over or under the rear seat rails... I chose to wrestle it over them instead then use the sissy bar mounting holes to hold it and the other sissy bar in place. You could also go the option of inside the rear seat rails and put some fender rails along side of it like sporty's have... or use the stock ones modifying those... that was something I first did in considering my fender options etc. back there... a grinder, cut off wheel, & drill can go a very long way in modifications.

The old starter system lockouts that also kill power when triggered while running... I'm not a fan of such things either. The diagram I made for EN450 wiring in the sticky above this forum, works very well for trimming out those diode lockouts etc. according to others that have used it... mine has Harley controls and other personal custom wiring mods, I haven't dished out to the public and my notes since the move back to NC are who knows where. But eh, focusing on one connection at a time sorts it all just the same.

Looks like you might still have the emissions shit hanging out on it. A company called Lampone makes block off plates, and tells you how to set things up nixing that garbage... aside from a nice power boost; it's a huge PITA adjusting valves when all that sort of shit has to be removed first... it's bad enough all the radiator business has to be disconnected without that junk needing removal too. If you do the valves which you should like clock work every 5-8k with oil changes, beware of the tach drive gear, and the knock pins getting lost in the removal into the motor... they take a dive right for the center chain valley right into the belly of the beast.

Well, I suppose that my have given you more shit to think about as you ride and modify it... my keystones were a factory defect by about 3/8th's of an inch higher on one side; I can't recall the manufacturer, but 20ish bucks? the control/grip area is shorter than Biltwells are by 2 - 3 inches on both sides. I personally love the pull back and rise on them, sometimes on a long road when the setting sun or the moon hits the right spot; I like to bend low and set either right between that little top gap between the bars and enjoy the perspective...

Tstang429
08-20-2015, 6:11 PM
Ok while shes down waiting for a new drive pulley for the belt. Found it severely worn out. Don't have the cash to replace so i decided to spray the tank and install those new bars i got. Only thing is with the bars on i cant vision the finished. Its not normal for me i have a good picture in my head yet for some reason i cant see this done. Gonna post the pic here and see if you guys have any ideas. My thought is to pull the gauges and warning lights go to a center speedometer. Then install two 2 inch gauges on the sides. to left a temp to right a tach. All centered in the new bars. With out further ado here is the current pic. Throw out some ideas I normally can vision start to finish and i was on it then these bars went on and somethings off i cant put my finger on.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/6688EEE5-9C0C-43DF-88B3-4BEE034D9B92_zpsjqhlolrf.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/6688EEE5-9C0C-43DF-88B3-4BEE034D9B92_zpsjqhlolrf.jpg.html)

JetBlackII
08-20-2015, 7:04 PM
I'd try to help with whats off; but your finger not being on it; doesn't help me any more when no words are touching it either... the stock speedo is where to automatic turn signal shut off is located it's an interesting design that ticks off rotations based on your speed and the inertia of the clockwork inside the gauge.

I bought a badlands unit for all my blinker shit; depends on the state you live or may go to after building with the signals... even in SC when they didnt require it I put them on... getting pulled is a time waster and a hassle easily avoided when out of state; and you come across "that guy". Since my bars are keystones as well although differently shaped looking at it may help... I'm feeling too lazy to run and dig up the link; since I'm also doing other work; but Butter Glide / Wabi Sabi / En450 should pull it up if you want another perspective to mentally sort what you have in mind for them.

Tstang429
08-20-2015, 7:43 PM
Jet, I drive a manual daily i gotta ask whats your opion of running no tach. I normally drive by the sound of the motor and seldom look at the tach as it is.

Tstang429
08-20-2015, 7:45 PM
Just started tearing things apart till i got what i liked. Now to build my mounts. I need a temp gauge that I am working on. Debating on the tach. Nice to have yet i really dont use it much as it is.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/B3E259C2-551A-48EE-A574-55EE45A34A41_zpssbrcldbz.jpg (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Tstang429/media/Nighthawk/B3E259C2-551A-48EE-A574-55EE45A34A41_zpssbrcldbz.jpg.html)

JetBlackII
08-21-2015, 6:09 PM
Jet, I drive a manual daily i gotta ask whats your opion of running no tach. I normally drive by the sound of the motor and seldom look at the tach as it is.

By ear is best; I could hit 60mph in a rolling second from 5mph in under 4 seconds... don't recommend that too many times without a race crew or a desire to learn engine swaps, I threw my valves due to having them adjusted on the upper side to stretch adjustment time... these pistons are flat with no valve cut outs; so clank clang clang when the trolley.

You can pull the tach, and leave the gear in place, oil won't shoot out of it, that's what I did; or you can pull all of that shit, out cut threads in the bung port, teflon tape a plug and sink it.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Tstang429/Nighthawk/B3E259C2-551A-48EE-A574-55EE45A34A41_zpssbrcldbz.jpg

Shits looking nice man; keep it up.

edit: forgot the temp guage business... fuck that thing... recall the radiator problems I mentioned previous? Keep the old in as a plug at the bottom... and wire the fan directly to a switch on the plastic neck shit, grab a cheap wired digital thermometer, and slap that fucker on a header bolt. When it hits about 150F reach over and flip the switch.

The thermostat opens on these at about 190F and shouldn't rise no more than 210F if it does... flush the rad with a simple green soak it out and garden hose the motor after the hose has sat in the hot sun to get some hot water going in it, at those above 200F temps the rad caked with a bunch of trash... be sure to have all of it plugged up except the drain; if you don't want it to look like a fountain. If you don't get it sitting lower than 190F ((water wetter) helps but can mask over a bunch of crud)) operating temperature you are going to be rebuilding it... or dropping in a newer Gen motor...

This was the R&D bike for the EX500, the Next gen above it in cruiser form was an EN500 but it isn't cammed the same and the gearing is not as tall as on the En450... you can hot cam it with an EX500R one... every fucking thing swaps between the EN450/EN500/EX500 motors, except for the flywheel... these have magnets that can sling free if the PO used a detergent or friction modified oil... the flywheel can be upgraded to the newer gen with minor mods and dropping a second pickup coil from the older side case to work with the old ICU ignitor, you might want to swap out the cam chain adjuster from the old and shitty mushroom type, to the newer stepped type... best done when adjusting the valves, as that's when maintenance comes due... I time all 3 of these things together on a bike to keep it running like a champ: Oil, Valves, and cam chain adjust.

This is the full up to date road and user tested in the market place tech to get one of these tearing up ass and cruising down the road reliably. Mine is upgraded as far as it can fucking go; with minor tuning issues I haven't really addressed from lack of space and peace to work on my shit proper. It runs and rides hitting shifts on the dime to 60 and slow rolls up... which is fine for standard street use.

I got pulled for a 60 in a 35 in under a half block about 3 miles later; and let go... guess Mr. "I too ride" likely brainwashed by Harley didn't think a little 450 could book it so he didn't break his out or just hasn't achieved full dickhead in rank yet.

Tstang429
08-22-2015, 3:08 AM
yea i love this thing. I had a harley dresser thought he was big shit till we left the light and he did not leave me. Know my friends sportster is another story. Dyno tuned fuel injected with vance and hines short shots upgraded air cleaner and stripped down. That things ridiculous. Ill hopefully have this thing back together in a few weeks.

JetBlackII
08-24-2015, 4:01 PM
yea i love this thing. I had a harley dresser thought he was big shit till we left the light and he did not leave me. Know my friends sportster is another story. Dyno tuned fuel injected with vance and hines short shots upgraded air cleaner and stripped down. That things ridiculous. Ill hopefully have this thing back together in a few weeks.

Know this... he's already tuned out... and you're on stock.

If you work the mods out I mention; block offs/pods etc. (hot cam not even required) and since the gearing is so tall? Shift right before 60 into 3rd and btw? clutchless all the way up... and no need to drop throttle on shift in your roll... the tranny is that good Oh and dropping your forks by an inch or two will keep the front end down and allow a better tuck after launch, the front end likes to get light on these babies above a 6k rpm launch with the stock fork height; which is where Harley's whole power band sits on the sporty... if you like the fork height for stance; and don't want a floating front tire, you can throw a EN500 swinger on it which adds about 3 inches and will keep that thing down with the tubes dropped even with the upper tree. I don't suggest it on the down shift for total one handed control when not feeling like both hands on the bars, unless you can hit the rpms for the gears by ear/feel/ or speedo... you can toss a tach on there, many cheap digital one to learn the speed your bike likes to shift best at... BTW red line on these are 11k, if you drop an EX500 in it? 13k.