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DINGO
02-12-2015, 4:45 PM
Hey everyone new to the group. I have a GS 450 that runs ok just a little rough. I got it for next to nothing so I figured I would try to make a bare bones bar hopper that I could ride to work as well. I have no idea how this will turn out. Haha I already ripped the turn signals off of it. The wiring is a rats nest but everything important works. I want to slim down the handle bars (even thinking about ditchin the front brakes, simplify the wiring I have seen a lot of guys run a push button directly on the starter solenoid but I don't think that's an option for this bike. So maybe I will just relocate it idk. Still somewhat brainstorming so if anyone has any cool ideas that work on early 80s gs bikes throw it out. I'm going to head out and pick up a cheap flux welder as well I'm not sure if I want to hard tail it right off the bat but I'll at least build some struts out of rebar and lug nuts. Probably a sissy with a small luggage rack. It seems like a simple bike so wish me luck! Any ideas or tips are appreciated I may need some help I only have basic mechanical skills!

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OleDirtyDoc
02-12-2015, 9:08 PM
You didn't by chance happen to steal my baby,did you?

DINGO
02-12-2015, 10:09 PM
Not sure I traded some stuff to my uncle for it. He got it out of Michigan!

Westboundbiker
02-12-2015, 10:46 PM
Always cool seeing another GS450 around! Here's my build: http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39594

DINGO
02-13-2015, 8:49 AM
@Westboundbiker Your build is awesome man! Inspiration always helps!

DINGO
02-13-2015, 11:34 PM
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Gotta love new toys! Harbor freight special.

DINGO
02-15-2015, 7:43 AM
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Made 2 10" struts from rebar and nuts. I need to rip that fender off then trim back the frame.

Westboundbiker
02-16-2015, 7:40 AM
@Westboundbiker Your build is awesome man! Inspiration always helps!

Thanks man! Your build looks like it's coming along pretty well too. I'd be careful with building struts out of rebar. While steel can be assumed to have the same compressive and tensile strength, buckling may be an issue. What diameter rebar is that? I can do a quick back of the envelope for ya, make sure it won't buckle.

DINGO
02-16-2015, 7:45 AM
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Started a little bit of the wiring last night. No turn signals, no low beam, headlight is on and bright automatically now. Took clutch cover off now Im having issues shifting going to go mess with the cable like westboundbiker suggested.

DINGO
02-16-2015, 7:47 AM
Its only 1/2" I think it may only be temporary though not sure I like how the lines of the bike look. It would be good to know if its safe to ride in the mean time though

Westboundbiker
02-16-2015, 8:23 AM
Ok. I'll get back to you soon with the verdict. And while I normally don't like struted bikes; I think it's getting the hardtail ride, without the clean hardtail lines... Using the rebar and nuts looks kinda cool.

DINGO
02-16-2015, 11:55 AM
Ok. I'll get back to you soon with the verdict. And while I normally don't like struted bikes; I think it's getting the hardtail ride, without the clean hardtail lines... Using the rebar and nuts looks kinda cool.

Thanks. I was out messing with my clutch cable adjustment and it basically seems like my clutch just isnt working.I can feel it getting stiffer but I can shift through all the gears with out touching my clutch. If I take my cover off I can move my push rod its completely free spins and moves in and out. but so far in the push rod feels like its just hitting a wall. idk is it just stiff clutch plates and I need to crank the hell out of it?

Westboundbiker
02-16-2015, 12:09 PM
I didn't have to mess with mine that much, just had to adjust it at the lever. So with it backed all the way out, and tightened all the way in, you can shift through the gears without touching the clutch? If that's the case, you're likely going to need to tear into the clutch.

Hotel
02-16-2015, 12:18 PM
Cant wait to see more

EVILBLACKSABRE
02-16-2015, 4:46 PM
Those struts are scary. I'm not questioning your welding skills, but there's going to be a lot of stress on them. You have to ask yourself if you are willing to bet your life on them.

Personally, no matter how skilled a welder is, I wouldn't trust my life to struts made from a couple pieces of rebar with nuts welded on the ends.

CraiGORE
02-16-2015, 5:26 PM
Those struts are scary. I'm not questioning your welding skills, but there's going to be a lot of stress on them. You have to ask yourself if you are willing to bet your life on them.

Personally, no matter how skilled a welder is, I wouldn't trust my life to struts made from a couple pieces of rebar with nuts welded on the ends.

hopefully he runs a rear fender ;):D:D

dylanjoseph29
02-16-2015, 5:52 PM
Would honda rebel shocks work on this bike. I'd look into those. U might be able get a similar ride height with shocks.

DINGO
02-17-2015, 8:20 AM
I Had a 85 VT 700 with rebar struts so they dont scare me so much anymore! Haha. I am definitely running a small rear fender though just in case. That whole clutch thing is driving me nuts. Frustrating. The push rod just pushes against the clutch plates and the clutch springs return the rod out when you let off correct? It has to be in the adjustment? I must be just missing the sweet spot!

Westboundbiker
02-17-2015, 11:05 AM
Yeah, if you're able to have it spin free on one extreme of adjustment, but not be able to disengage at the other extreme, you've just gotta search for the sweet spot.

DINGO
02-17-2015, 7:08 PM
Ok Found the sweet spot! Thanks Westboundbiker! You might as well just be building this for me as much as you have helped so far haha! Anyways Lost all of my gauges. Opened up the headlight and started thinning out some of the wiring in there. I ended up cutting a wire that tied into my start button. So instead of tracing it back and playing with 20 different wires I said screw it and snipped my kill switch to. Wired them together and now I bought another push button that Im going to wire to the solenoid and locate somewhere on the frame. Had some 7/8 black steel pipe I got at Home Depot paid 9 dollars for 10' of it. Cut them to length and now I have some home made drag bars. Really was going to try to keep my front brakes but they just weren't going to fit. So off they went. and this is how Im sitting now. 56886 56887 56888

Westboundbiker
02-17-2015, 9:10 PM
Glad to help. And here's my quick, back of the envelope:

Euler's bucking formula for a 2 pinned column:
F=pi^2*E*I/(L^2).
E is modulus of elasticity. For most carbon steels, that's about 30*10^6 psi.
I has to do with geometry. For a solid rod like this, the formula is:
(pi/4)*(radius^4). (For anyone who wants to use a tube, just use (pi/4)*(outerradius^4-innerradius^4))
L is the length.

So, assuming your radius is 1/4 of an inch, and from your image, from center to center of the shackles is ~7 inches,

I=.00307 in^4
F=18500 lb.
So, assuming you weigh 185 lb... you could put 100 of you on there before it'd buckle. I'd say it'll hold up.

By the way, if you ever find your self out in the midwest, hit me up and we'll grab a cold beverage. Us GS brothers gotta stick together!

DINGO
02-18-2015, 8:37 AM
Glad to help. And here's my quick, back of the envelope:

Euler's bucking formula for a 2 pinned column:
F=pi^2*E*I/(L^2).
E is modulus of elasticity. For most carbon steels, that's about 30*10^6 psi.
I has to do with geometry. For a solid rod like this, the formula is:
(pi/4)*(radius^4). (For anyone who wants to use a tube, just use (pi/4)*(outerradius^4-innerradius^4))
L is the length.

So, assuming your radius is 1/4 of an inch, and from your image, from center to center of the shackles is ~7 inches,

I=.00307 in^4
F=18500 lb.
So, assuming you weigh 185 lb... you could put 100 of you on there before it'd buckle. I'd say it'll hold up.

By the way, if you ever find your self out in the midwest, hit me up and we'll grab a cold beverage. Us GS brothers gotta stick together!

Your in MN right? Ill definitely let you know! So you are saying each 7" piece should be able to support 100lbs? I may try to find something 3/4 just to be safe. I weigh 200 on the nose and I would definitely have some wiggle room and not ride that fine line. lol

Westboundbiker
02-18-2015, 12:15 PM
Nope, I'm saying that with just one piece of 1/2 inch rebar, 7 inches long, can support 18500 lb. So having two struts like that will support twice that. So at 200 lb, and with two struts, you could clone yourself 185 times and make a giant human pile of yourselves on the bike before the rebar even bends, lol. The 1/2 inch you've got is waaay more than adequate.

And yeah, I'm in MN, but eventually will end up in IN, but that's still years down the road.

DINGO
02-18-2015, 12:40 PM
Awesome so my welds are probably the weakest points! IN is closer I'm in Ohio.

DINGO
02-19-2015, 8:22 PM
Relocated my start button down on the frame. I think it looks pretty slick.

56924

Also removed the exhaust. I have 1 snapped of bolt on each cylinder. Looks like the previous owner try to use an easy out on it and effed it up even more. Not sure what Im going to do about it yet. Tap and die maybe.

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Nilson
02-19-2015, 9:31 PM
This is a very common problem with the older GS bikes. I would drill it with one size lager and replace with the corresponding bolt. I broke one bolt on my header and that is what I did.
Are you keeping the tank or are you gonna mount something else. This is my favorite GS56926

deathmetaldan
02-19-2015, 9:39 PM
that sucks about the exhaust stud! I have had that happen on almost every jap bike i have ever taken an exhaust off of.

Your options depend on how much you have to work with. I do suggest getting a soldering torch if there is any chance of turning it out.

Westboundbiker
02-20-2015, 7:16 AM
If you have any sticking out, even 1/4 inch, that you can get vice grips on, spray a bunch of PB blaster on em, and let them sit over night, or a few days, reapplying every day or so. then try to back them out. If that doesn't work, try a torch to heat the surrounding metal. Or, if you can find a good welder, they can 'weld out' a bolt. it's really cool to see.
This is a really simple version of what they do. They can also 'pull' the bolt up and out, if its snapped down inside. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRrz-cphBY4

DINGO
02-20-2015, 8:02 AM
@ Nilson That GS looks pretty good! For now Im planning on keeping the tank and just give it the ole rattle can job. One of the studs is sticking out less than an 1/8". I feel like their maybe some hope on that one maybe I can tac a nut on. However I feel like Im going to end up drilling it.

DINGO
02-23-2015, 8:04 PM
Well I dont have many updates. I painted my gas tank but Im not too happy with it. I may just hit it with the trusty flat black. I feel like it looks like shit Lol I sprayed down the two busted off bolts with PB blaster. Its just been too cold out in my garage. its -7 and all I have is a small electric heater. I need to build a wood burner! Anyways once it warms up a bit Ill probably put it back together. Figure out how Im going to rig a seat and rear fender. Paint and straighten out my exhaust situation probably some header tape. Also need to run my tail light/brake light. I may keep the ugly stock air box for now until I come up with the money to clean/rebuild my carbs.

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DINGO
02-23-2015, 8:06 PM
Well I dont have many updates. I painted my gas tank but Im not too happy with it. I may just hit it with the trusty flat black. I feel like it looks like shit Lol I sprayed down the two busted off bolts with PB blaster. Its just been too cold out in my garage. its -7 and all I have is a small electric heater. I need to build a wood burner! Anyways once it warms up a bit Ill probably put it back together. Figure out how Im going to rig a seat and rear fender. Paint and straighten out my exhaust situation probably some header tape. Also need to run my tail light/brake light. I may keep the ugly stock air box for now until I come up with the money to clean/rebuild my carbs.

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And that big heater in the background doesnt work!! :banghead:

Westboundbiker
02-23-2015, 9:27 PM
Well what's wrong with it!? Maybe this can be a bike build and a heater repair thread! hahaha! But check out your local CL for woodstoves and shit. Or drop a couple mentions around buddies and co-workers. Scored mine for free from a co-worker who wanted gas heat.

DINGO
02-28-2015, 10:06 PM
Hahaha What's funny is my brother is an HVAC tech! Screw that heater lol I can't wait until spring though I'm so ready to ride! I have been doing a lot of thinking and I think I'm going to try to get my hands on a xs 650. I still want to complete this bike and ride the piss out of it. I like those xs bikes especially with the kick start and the little bit of extra power. Any ways I still haven't had my pansy ass in that cold garage!

ReN
03-01-2015, 3:59 AM
Always great seeying other GS450 builds. Shout out if you need some info, I have a service manual, so could scan some stuff if desired.

This is my 1988 GS450L. Bought as a basket, gave her some love in the garage. Not rat nor bob ;)

Hardly take her for a spin, but still can't part.

Click to enlarge
https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/15567/196668588.3a/0_182ffb_f409d0dd_M.jpg (https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/r-ennie/view/1585147/) https://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/16191/196668588.3a/0_182ffe_edbfa9e0_M.jpg (https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/r-ennie/view/1585150/)

Westboundbiker
03-01-2015, 3:47 PM
Yeah, I'm working on a 450 as well, do you happen to know what the brake lever piston diameter is? I want to replace my stock one, but want to get the same size, as the brakes seemed perfect, not too touchy, not too soft.

Also, did you get much of a chance to ride yours before you tore into it Dingo? These 450's put out a lot more power than their size gives away. It definitely had a lot more get-up-and-go than my V Star 650, maybe as much as my buddy's Shadow 750.

DINGO
03-15-2015, 6:56 PM
Yeah, I'm working on a 450 as well, do you happen to know what the brake lever piston diameter is? I want to replace my stock one, but want to get the same size, as the brakes seemed perfect, not too touchy, not too soft.

Also, did you get much of a chance to ride yours before you tore into it Dingo? These 450's put out a lot more power than their size gives away. It definitely had a lot more get-up-and-go than my V Star 650, maybe as much as my buddy's Shadow 750.

Yea I rode it a little bit. Mine runs kinda funky, feels like a carb issue. I have it in a ride able state right now somewhat but my carbs still aren't right. Before it would go 60 or so. Since I have been messing with it and fixed the exhaust and intake leak and dumped 1/3 bottle of sea foam in my tank it just kinda sputters lol. Idk if its because of the sea foam and 97 gas or if my carbs are just that far out of whack.

DINGO
03-15-2015, 7:01 PM
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DINGO
03-15-2015, 7:06 PM
Well Its back together for the most part now I just need to get a seat, and tail light. It starts up and idles but when I give it gas it kinda stumbles and puts. every now and then I get it to scream wide open but never when riding it it just starts to go then stumbles starts to go then stumbles. Ive got 1/3 can of sea foam in it now see it that helps before I pop off the carbs.

Westboundbiker
03-15-2015, 9:14 PM
I had that issue- try shimming the needle using some very tiny washers. Not sure where you can pick some up, I only had mine left over from a carb mod kit for my V Star.

DINGO
03-19-2015, 9:00 PM
Ok popped off carbs and cleaned and put them in sync. Bike does run better, well in neutral. My issue is motor runs ok in neutral but when I put in gear it stumbles and puts. Only when under a load it acts like this. It doesn't matter what gear. Like I said though in neutral I can roll through the rpms. My Carbs are not tuned so I still get a little bit of back firing. What Im thinking may have happened is when I cut into the wiring harness I snipped a ground? Does that sound feasible? My bike had the lights to illuminate neutral, and gears 1-6. I snipped all of them and taped them. Maybe they are possibly arcing and confusing a sensor or something with the trans? Idk but it is a bit frustrating.

Westboundbiker
03-20-2015, 10:19 AM
I don't think that'd be it- the way those gear lights work is 12 V is always available at the bulb, but the ground side of the circuit is completed inside the transmission. By snipping the wires, there is no power there- and that's fine, I did the same thing. It won't impact how the trans works, or any performance. Only thing I can think is that since these bikes are so lean from factory, having the less restrictive exhaust and intake aren't letting you get enough power to go under load. Also, you could have a fuel restriction. I also wouldn't think it'd be a loose ground. I'm not too familiar with the intricacies of the ignitor module on these bikes, mine works and I didn't bother doing much research- that may have something to do with it, a missing/screwed up wire into or out of it may cause an issue?

Those are just some guesses, but not sure what else would let you still run through the RPMs in neutral but not in other gears. Have you tried it with it up on a lift, rear tire free spinning? Does it do it then? What about with the chain removed? Can you go through the gears then? That'd be a good way to help narrow down what it could be.

Pendulum
03-21-2015, 5:36 PM
Are you using stock intake? Stock exhaust? You've done a PROPER rebuild of the carbs, using new gaskets and the jets that were already in it, right?

If you haven't torn the carbs down, soaked 'em in Carb Dip, and put 'em back together to FACTORY specs I'd do that first. My GS was a complete shitter until I did that. If you've modified the intake or exhaust, we can deal with that once your carbs are in proper working order. Next would be some carb/intake o-rings from Robert Barr. If you got your o-rings anywhere else, I'd be leary of 'em. After that, check for air leaks by spraying staring fluid at every joint/connection on the air box and carbs. If the idle changes, there's an air leak there. The last thing I'd do is make sure I had good exhaust gaskets.