View Full Version : Bit of advice required please

01-30-2015, 12:09 PM
Hi all, I'm new here but have been lurking for a while. This is my first post other than my saying hello in the other section.
I'm after a bit of advice or some pointers mainly as I'm currently building a bike and not sure which way to go with it.

Ok, the bike is a 1984 kz440. So far I have hard tailed it, removed the side engine cradles and put s ingle spine in. It's a 3 inch stretch and a 3 inch drop. It looks awesome!
It's on mag wheels and I'd really like some spokes on there. Front is a 19" rear 16". I wanted to put a 16" spoky on rear and 21" spoky on front. I am also thinking of putting a set of springers on the front. Here's where I'm a bit stuck.

Is it a simple case of finding some bearings that fit in the original neck but with a 1" stem size as that appears to be the standard size on DNa springers or would it be better to weld a new neck in?
Also will an 18" kz400 spoked rear lace to a 2.75 16" rim without any clearance problems?
If I keep the original forks (not sure yet as springer are mega expensive) how hard is it to find a 21" front wheel on disc brake and make it fit?
Sorry for longish post and multiple questions!

Thanks, Dave!

01-30-2015, 2:27 PM
I have nothing helpful to add about the springer. BUT, about the wheels...

On the front, I don't know exactly what your clearance is, but you can probably stuff just about any 21" in there and not have any issues. Re-aligning your caliper might need to happen but it's a non-issue. A 21" front mx wheel is way skinnier than your 19" mags, and you could probably just space the rotor instead of moving the caliper...

As far as the rear, the smaller diameter the rim, the tighter the bend angle has to be on the outter spokes. The spokes have to pull closer in to alight with the holes in the rim. Along with this, the distance the spoke hole is from the edge of the hub now matters. If the spoke hole is too far in then the spoke will touch the hub before it lines up with the rim. SO, yes, you can probably do it. Call buchanan. Unless you're asking about the wider 16" tire interfering with the bike? If that's the case, you hard tailed it. Any interference you'll have can be measured from how the bike sits right now. I think usual 16" tire width is around 6" at the widest.

Hope it helps. If it doesn't let me know and I'll sling some more bs

01-31-2015, 1:36 PM
Thanks for your reply, makes sense what you say. It's hard to work out how it will all sit without being some kind of engineering wizard.
Made a few phone calls today and I think I may have a solution for both front and back end.
I have bought an early kz400 18" spoked rear, from what I can tell the axle, drum, Cush drive etc are the same as the 440, a guy I found on the inter webs will lace a 16" rim to it with stainless spokes for a very good price so hopefully that's the rear end sorted.

As for fitting a springer to the front end there are a couple of ways to go about it. Ican either weld a new neck in that takes harley 1" bearings, try and find some bearings that are the same outside diameter as the kz and 1" inner or make a sleeve that fits over the stem of the springer to take it out to the same size as original bearings.
I think the sleeve option is probably quickest and easiest so il go with that option more than likely.

Do you know a website or whatever where I can read up on lacing wheels and offsets etc as its voodoo to me at the minute and I'd like to know more.
I'll be starting a build thread once I've got some more bits and pieces to fit and make, no point starting one now as ive not really done anything other than hardtail the frame.


01-31-2015, 9:04 PM
Getting good at wheels just takes doing it. My advice? Lace it yourself it's not that bad. Well, your first one will make you feel retarded, but after that they're a breeze. Look at how the spokes are all lined up in the wheel before you take it apart. And I don't mean just glance at it, memorize that shit. It's important. Look at the difference in bends on inner spokes versus outer. Truing wheels is where the art comes in, but if you have a dial indicator (not test) then it doesn't take all that much to figure out whether or not you're worth a fuck at it... Don't be afraid of wheels, people are more scared than they should be.

I take back what I said about your springer situation. If bearings are your only problem, you can buy pretty wacked out sizes of tapered rollers all over the internet. Look real hard before you start into a bunch of unnecessary fab work. Most tapered rollers in those sizes usually don't go above $10 a shot.

Now that i've typed that out, if they aren't tapered rollers you may be able to buy TWO SEPERATE RACES (inner and outer) and match the track radius and ball size/number to the new gap you created. That would be some high end wizard shit and I don't expect you to pursue it. But, if you do, It would probably go in the chopcult hall of fame if we ever get one...

02-01-2015, 9:58 PM
you can change the stem out on the dna, get with a good machinist and take him the original stem and dna stem. The should be able to turn one out.
re welding a neck is a pain in the ass, how ever re slugging a neck isnt bad at all if the origninal neck can handle it.

02-10-2015, 11:24 AM
Well after measuring everything and then measuring again I placed the order for the forks. The guy who I'm buying them off builds bikes for a living and has kindly offered to machine some sleeves for the stem so I can use the original bearings. Hopefully il have them in a couple of weeks and fitted. I searched and searched for the right size bearings and couldn't find any, apparently imperial I'd and metric od are like hens teeth.

The rear wheel is being laced by someone I found on the web, but knowing what I know now after plenty of reading up I wish I'd had a go at it myself but at least I know it will be right when I get it back.

02-10-2015, 11:49 AM
I don't even read this shit if it doesn't come with pictures...

02-11-2015, 1:10 AM
Haha! I'll be starting a build thread once I've got a bit more done and there will be pictures :)

02-11-2015, 4:13 AM
you can change the stem out on the dna, get with a good machinist and take him the original stem and dna stem. The should be able to turn one out.
re welding a neck is a pain in the ass, how ever re slugging a neck isnt bad at all if the origninal neck can handle it.

thats the way to do it, 'if it were mine" no sleeves is better

02-11-2015, 6:45 PM
Hay Foot...strap one of them mini rockets to that fookers ass, lol....Myth.....BUSTED....splat on the nearest billboard....