View Full Version : Millermatic 135 pricing?

06-27-2014, 7:22 AM
Guy on CL has a Millermatic 135 with cart, almost full tank and extra spool of wire asking $650. He was asking $800 a couple weeks ago...

I seen them sell on ebay for around 5 bills but they don't include any of the extras and they are looking kinda haggard. This one looks brand new.

I'm not in an extreme hurry but a basic welding device is definitely lacking in my shed.

Thinking bout offering 6?

06-27-2014, 7:37 AM
My experience with craigslist is people are ready to sell. I would meet up offer $500. Money talks. Worst thing he will say is no.

06-27-2014, 12:06 PM
Man i hit him up on that $500 and he came back at $550 delivered to my door with a free helmet... I'm gonna have to cop this shit...

06-27-2014, 12:19 PM
just have your piece holstered when he gets there. You never know what you are going to get he may drop off and scope a peak at your house. Be careful.

06-27-2014, 1:12 PM
Piece is at home and he's coming to my work, so yeah, i feel ya. I never have CL people to my house, ever. Thanks.

06-27-2014, 2:57 PM
Hmm... I have CL people come to my house all the time.

06-29-2014, 11:00 AM
Hmm... I have CL people come to my house all the time.

Part of me wants to trust in humanity but the other part of me, which wins, doesn't trust anyone I meet online trying buy/sell stuff...

06-30-2014, 6:40 AM
Get the neck ring info off the cylinder to determine where to exchange it. Many threads on Weldingweb about cylinders.

You can download the manual off the excellent Miller site.


The forums there are very good.

07-01-2014, 10:12 AM
Oxygen 125 tanks are exchangeable everywhere as long they are within the test date. Anything bigger then a 125 size, specifically, the larger 4 foot tanks are property of gas supplier/ welding supply and rarely owned by individuals. The larger ones have serial #'s for each tank. Most places won't refill or exchange them for you, unless you have a buddy working there.

07-01-2014, 12:11 PM
Blank neck rings on any size indicate "owner" cylinders so if you score some big 'uns you can press the issue and some local welding suppliers will swap them out or refill them. I scored several government surplus nitrogen cylinders for $25 each I had filled with 75/25 and argon.

Industrial gases are very nice to have around the shop.

07-01-2014, 12:22 PM
Yeah, I've got some cylinders I own, and it's always a guess as to what the local welding shop du jour has to say about them. I think it varies around the country. I have had to get pushy when some joker starts talking about not giving me back my cylinder, that wears me out.

07-01-2014, 1:42 PM
If they can fill onsite, they will fill your cylinder. If they are filled remotely, they probably will just want to swap them out. You lose your nice clean looking one and get a greasy dirty old one that they won't exchange the next time, because it is out of test date.

07-01-2014, 4:13 PM
Thanks for the tips guys. This is my first welder so I'm learning a lot. Right now I'm fighting a wire feed issue. It only wants to feed when the gun cable is very straight. I've got the tip off and its still not very smooth. It's .30 wire. I may need a different feed roll, mine says .24 and 6 I think? I'm trying the 6 side but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. The spool of wire is a little rusty too so I'm trying to run out the rusty top layer and and see if it makes any difference. It originally had .24 wire in it and that worked well, and when I changed out the spool I didn't straighten out the cable right away(rookie move). Could that have jacked up the liner at all?

07-02-2014, 9:01 AM
Liners are cheap and considered expendable. If the liner (which looks internally like the Bowden cables used on most motorcycles) is corroded or accumulating rust it's fucked, plus slight liner kinks are common. With the feed roll released you should be able to manually pull the MIG wire through the gun using your welpers. That allows feeling any kinks etc you might otherwise miss.

Manually pull off the rusty wire instead of running through your liner the next time. Not pointing the gun straight won't hurt the liner unless you KINK the liner.

I'd replace the liner (about twenty bucks) then use clean wire and you should be fine. I hunt guns and liners on Ebay but I do my homework on gun backends etc first.

Liner swapout video.


I've replaced many MIG gun liners while running a toolroom. Cut off the excess using an abrasive disk and make SURE no burrs intrude into the wire path. Don't trim the liner too short.

I always have the gun tip off when feeding fresh wire to avoid jamming/birdnesting.

As to your feed roll, see the manual you downloaded from the Miller site and if that's insufficient post on the Miller forums and/or http://weldingweb.com/forumdisplay.php?16-Miller

I'm not being a dick suggesting posting there. CC is a chopper forum. Superior welding advice in quality and quantity lives on WELDING forums. You have a Miller-specific feed roll question.


You lose your nice clean looking one and get a greasy dirty old one that they won't exchange the next time, because it is out of test date.

I read the hydro dates to prevent that. Cosmetics are irrelevant to cylinder function but when I get a cylinder I do a visual inspection and check the hydro date. Easy stuff.

I DO get blank neck rings for blanks when I swap even if I have to wait. I get my cylinders cheap so I want to off them for a profit when I no longer need them.

Out of date cylinders are normally assessed a test fee on exchange but some LWS ignore that if they like you.


07-02-2014, 11:54 AM
Thanks a bunch! You're not being a dick at all and you are correct, there is a better place to post these questions. I thought I'd throw out my issue here to see what the fellow chopper heads thought, but intend on going there as well. I appreciate the thorough answer!