PDA

View Full Version : Frame Info, Taiwan Tedds



BuddhahoodVato
05-22-2014, 5:28 PM
Just picked up this frame for a guy who wants me to land a motor etc in it. This one is the 51-1956 Frame. The Box said Made in Taiwan, surprised us.
The cross over rod is real, real tight. Needs a hole drilled for the pin for the key lock. All in all for what it's going to be used, step up from what was coming down the pike. Will have another extra MSO now.

71butcher
05-22-2014, 6:59 PM
is that a shadow or is there a huge imperfection in the casting on the bottom of the neck?

BuddhahoodVato
05-23-2014, 7:16 AM
key lock

SyndicateChoppers
05-23-2014, 5:37 PM
Just curious if you put it in a frame jig yet to check the measurements etc.

Ive heard and seen nothing but bad from these frames since they started making them in Taiwan. (Im not saying this one has anything wrong with it etc. Im just curious how it measures and specs out)

Also is this the one that fits a 200mm rear tire and an evo motor ?
I heard they were only going to produce the replica frames to fit the bigger rear tire and the taller evo motor ( this is just a rumor I heard and nothing more than that)

Just curious to see what someone who actually has their hands on one and also has a pretty good knowledge of what the original OEM stuff is has to say about them.

If you want please shoot me a pm

bigxrdoug
05-23-2014, 8:33 PM
how much and what is the quality like.

BuddhahoodVato
05-24-2014, 7:16 AM
Syndicatos,
this frame compared to the ones they where banging out of China is far superior. But it all pales compared to the oem puppies.
I don't have a jig, but set next to a real one most of the tabs etc, line up good. The cross over needs some work, the rod will not pass through.
Also this one is not set up for the big tire. As for being taller, never tripped on that.
Landing a motor this week, let's see how it plays out.

BuddhahoodVato
05-24-2014, 7:17 AM
Played out like 1,700 and change. Quality is acceptable right now, for what it will be used it will work.
how much and what is the quality like.

71butcher
05-26-2014, 8:53 AM
key lock

no where the lower bearing cup would go
like the 4th pic from the left

AMFshovelheads
05-27-2014, 3:56 AM
Also is this the one that fits a 200mm rear tire and an evo motor ?
I heard they were only going to produce the replica frames to fit the bigger rear tire and the taller evo motor ( this is just a rumor I heard and nothing more than that)

It's true. they're all over eBay and they sell for about $1300.

BuddhahoodVato
05-27-2014, 7:04 AM
that's not a imperfection, that is character.
the frames you see on eBay do not have the cross over tube.

BuddhahoodVato
06-03-2014, 4:31 PM
New Pics
Mocked up a moto, y transmission spanglish for motor and tranny.
laid a straight edge on it and it lines up [Tranny y Moto]. Back head clears the seat post nicely, mot does seem to sit just a tad lower.
My job is done now.
This frame did not come stamped with any numerous at all, the kind folks at teddie's sent us one we can use. Anyone need a free and clear MSO for display purposes.

BuddhahoodVato
06-03-2014, 4:32 PM
Oh the display MSO is not Gratis...................................

Andy
06-03-2014, 5:37 PM
This frame did not come stamped with any numerous at all, the kind folks at teddie's sent us one we can use. Anyone need a free and clear MSO for display purposes.

I thought his frames had a number on the right side, where the brake pedal bolts to (for the older style setup)? I can't see why he'd send you an mso if there wasn't a number on there?

BuddhahoodVato
06-03-2014, 5:47 PM
Andy, Loco ,cuzzzzzzz they fucked up.

Andy
06-04-2014, 3:35 PM
Andy, Loco ,cuzzzzzzz they fucked up.

Gotcha!

BuddhahoodVato
06-05-2014, 5:51 PM
Adios Jale, "Y" gracias al El Dios De Milwakee.

skr00ball
06-06-2014, 7:10 AM
51-56 frame?

It's a straighleg and the wishbone ended mid 54...

BuddhahoodVato
06-07-2014, 2:51 PM
Duh, everybody be knowing that.
51-56 frame?

It's a straighleg and the wishbone ended mid 54...

Davestune
06-07-2014, 6:06 PM
if u use teh big d ring , im having a brain fart but anyway it will be on that back post some stock hd frames do the same shit barely touches

skr00ball
06-07-2014, 6:26 PM
Duh, everybody be knowing that.

Just figured it was something else Taiwan Tedd Screwed up.

BuddhahoodVato
06-07-2014, 9:45 PM
true, but I always buff it out when I run those, that's why I save the sandwich puppies., or run with out.

ElekVins
12-06-2016, 5:01 PM
Did anybody bought recently a repop knuckle frame from V-twin?
How was it regarding fitment and quality?

montuckymatt
12-06-2016, 9:16 PM
I picked up the 1937 v-twin frame for my 37 U flatty and am happy with it so far. It looks really good. The brake crossover needs to be reamed and I havent stuffed my motor into it yet. Ill give that a shot tomorrow.. I have bolted up the tranny plate and it lines up perfect. Welds look good everything is there as it should be...im no expert but for what I paid im very happy.

ElekVins
12-08-2016, 12:14 AM
Thanks Matt,
please let us know how it goes once motor is in.

hsoj74
12-08-2016, 12:56 PM
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WQ4Ot3O34Zc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here is a side by side from someone with knowledge.

SyndicateChoppers
12-08-2016, 2:05 PM
they are a total hit or miss,

one frame can be excellent
while the next one can be way way off

ive seen them where the motor mount bolts holes are over 1/4" off on each side,
rear axle plates no inline with each other
slight bends in the rear drop outs
I can go on and on

this is the biggest problem with Vtwin Mfg products, you never know what you are going to get, sometimes the stuff fits okay, sometimes it actually fits well, most of the times its way off,

if your going to use one of their frames I would 100% put it in a frame fixture and get ready to correct some problems with it.

Your usually better off buying a factory frame and having it repaired by a reputable shop, this way you know for certain what your getting and the value at the end is usually worth the investment

Taint
12-10-2016, 9:44 AM
Your usually better off buying a factory frame and having it repaired by a reputable shop, this way you know for certain what your getting and the value at the end is usually worth the investment


I've been following this similar thread on both MC forums I visit. While there are a lot of good points being made, I can't understand this rationale whatsoever. Why pay a minimum of $2000 (internet prices, for those of us who don't have many swaps and can't spend time hunting basement bargains) for a 60-70 year old frame that's been stick welded by meth heads, cut on and disfigured, jumped over curbs and streams, left outside for dead, and treated as the second class farm vehicle they used to be, and THEN paying a shop to replace most of the castings and half of the tubes, as well as realign all of the mounting holes...or take your chances with one of these $1800 frames, possibly have to open a few holes up with a drill, or realign a brake crossover, whatever, and have something that only a very few would ever be able to tell apart from OG?

Is it still "factory" once most of the castings have been replaced, tubes have been replaced or massaged, brazed or welded together using a non factory device/non HD employee, etc?

I pose this as a legitimate question, not sarcastic trolling. There's no doubt you know what you're talking about, and you've got an excellent reputation, but I'd like to understand why you believe this.

Just for reference, I have three vintage HDs; two with overpriced frames (if I had to replace em) that will definitely require work to be serviceable. I've considered one of these '56 Pan frames to replace my molded and trimmed frame, but I got bit by the long chopper bug. And they ain't no way I'm paying $2500 for an original 45 solo frame! (TROG effects)

montuckymatt
12-10-2016, 2:29 PM
I couldnt agree more. With my 1937 repop v twin frame it looks very similar to the original. Even has the casting marks on the neck. 1937 being a unique year frame, most that I found were over $5,000 in semi-decent condition. I paid less than half that for mine. I wont lose any sleep over it not being a "factory" frame. Id rather have the money tied up in my big flatty motor anyway. I'll post some pics of it later this week.

SyndicateChoppers
12-11-2016, 4:43 PM
I've been following this similar thread on both MC forums I visit. While there are a lot of good points being made, I can't understand this rationale whatsoever. Why pay a minimum of $2000 (internet prices, for those of us who don't have many swaps and can't spend time hunting basement bargains) for a 60-70 year old frame that's been stick welded by meth heads, cut on and disfigured, jumped over curbs and streams, left outside for dead, and treated as the second class farm vehicle they used to be, and THEN paying a shop to replace most of the castings and half of the tubes, as well as realign all of the mounting holes...or take your chances with one of these $1800 frames, possibly have to open a few holes up with a drill, or realign a brake crossover, whatever, and have something that only a very few would ever be able to tell apart from OG?

Is it still "factory" once most of the castings have been replaced, tubes have been replaced or massaged, brazed or welded together using a non factory device/non HD employee, etc?

I pose this as a legitimate question, not sarcastic trolling. There's no doubt you know what you're talking about, and you've got an excellent reputation, but I'd like to understand why you believe this.

Just for reference, I have three vintage HDs; two with overpriced frames (if I had to replace em) that will definitely require work to be serviceable. I've considered one of these '56 Pan frames to replace my molded and trimmed frame, but I got bit by the long chopper bug. And they ain't no way I'm paying $2500 for an original 45 solo frame! (TROG effects)

because in the end a good restored frame will fetch you over $5,000 depending on what year it is, at the moment, and I dont see the market going down anytime soon,

on the other hand an aftermarket frame that you buy today that costs $1800 you can maybe sell tomorrow for $1400
if you dont get so lucky and get a frame that is bent or twisted or way the hell off with something you will be paying a shop to fix it yourself if its something that needs fixing that is out of your comfort zone or skill level (most people do not have frame jigs at their disposal)

so really thats my argument for buying and fixing an OEM frame vs. a crap shoot with an aftermarket frame that is well known to have fitment issues

SyndicateChoppers
12-11-2016, 4:52 PM
I couldnt agree more. With my 1937 repop v twin frame it looks very similar to the original. Even has the casting marks on the neck. 1937 being a unique year frame, most that I found were over $5,000 in semi-decent condition. I paid less than half that for mine. I wont lose any sleep over it not being a "factory" frame. Id rather have the money tied up in my big flatty motor anyway. I'll post some pics of it later this week.


If you think that the vtwin 1937 replica frame that you have looks anything like an OEM 1937 frame you have absolutely no idea what you are looking at ( I dont mean that as an insult, I mean it as a point,) look at good pics of an OEM 1937 frame, than look at your vtwin frame that you have there

look close at them both and compare them back and forth

the rear brake side downtube on the rear section of the frame of the vtwin frame is nothing like an OEM frame
the side car loops are nothing like OEM, the seat casting is nothing like OEM, and the front motor mount is not close either.
The bends and angles of the tubing are way off,
the vtwin frame doesnt have the 7/8" backbone support tube like the OEM frames do either
the tool box mount is not correct, I could on for a while about them
the brake stay piece is not correct on the rear axle plate
so besides not having all the hallmarks that an OEM frame does ( who cares if the vtwin neck has one DIF mark in it when its missing 99% of the other hallmarks, including the other 2 hallmarks that the neck is supposed to have)
I have an OEM 1937 frame and I happen to have a Vtwin early repop frame in the shop right now as well, nothing is close between the 2 of them and this is just what I remember off the top of my head when the customer dropped the vtwin frame off for me to use,

now if your not doing a restoration and dont care about having a factory frame than sure it doesnt pay to pay for the expense of an OEM frame,
but if your looking to put some value into a bike that you are building than an OEM frame is the way to go

most people wont see the difference, but the people that can see the difference will see it from a mile away

oh and by the way the frame was just purchased from Vtwin and the motor mount holes are off, so is the rear trans mount, and the axle plates are not level either

montuckymatt
12-11-2016, 6:54 PM
If you think that the vtwin 1937 replica frame that you have looks anything like an OEM 1937 frame you have absolutely no idea what you are looking at ( I dont mean that as an insult, I mean it as a point,) look at good pics of an OEM 1937 frame, than look at your vtwin frame that you have there

look close at them both and compare them back and forth

the rear brake side downtube on the rear section of the frame of the vtwin frame is nothing like an OEM frame
the side car loops are nothing like OEM, the seat casting is nothing like OEM, and the front motor mount is not close either.
The bends and angles of the tubing are way off,
the vtwin frame doesnt have the 7/8" backbone support tube like the OEM frames do either
the tool box mount is not correct, I could on for a while about them
the brake stay piece is not correct on the rear axle plate
so besides not having all the hallmarks that an OEM frame does ( who cares if the vtwin neck has one DIF mark in it when its missing 99% of the other hallmarks, including the other 2 hallmarks that the neck is supposed to have)
I have an OEM 1937 frame and I happen to have a Vtwin early repop frame in the shop right now as well, nothing is close between the 2 of them and this is just what I remember off the top of my head when the customer dropped the vtwin frame off for me to use,

now if your not doing a restoration and dont care about having a factory frame than sure it doesnt pay to pay for the expense of an OEM frame,
but if your looking to put some value into a bike that you are building than an OEM frame is the way to go

most people wont see the difference, but the people that can see the difference will see it from a mile away

oh and by the way the frame was just purchased from Vtwin and the motor mount holes are off, so is the rear trans mount, and the axle plates are not level either
wow, thats too bad the frame you got is so messed up! Im well aware of the differences, I said similar. I decided early on to put my money into the drivetrain rather than frame when I saw the prices of the OEM ones. ($5000 plus) It looks good to me and im not building an investment or something to impress people who do know the differences. I really dig it and thats all that matters in the long run. The motor mount holes, tranny holes line up...axle l plates are level! I purchase the frame from v-twin but it had a tag on it with a date of 3/24/2006. Ive been told this could be a corbin gentry frame that was left over when they sold to V-Twin? who knows. Instead of blowing a wad of cash on an OEM frame I got a repop, save some money and improved my flatty with upgraded oiling, bigger intake valves, T&O wheels, WR intake,cams, relieved ported heads, ect....works for me.

Taint
01-01-2017, 1:46 PM
Is it still "factory" once most of the castings have been replaced, tubes have been replaced or massaged, brazed or welded together using a non factory device/non HD employee, etc?

I pose this as a legitimate question, not sarcastic trolling. There's no doubt you know what you're talking about, and you've got an excellent reputation, but I'd like to understand why you believe this.



Here's my biggest question; it's not OEM if it's not how it came from the factory. You've basically made an astoundingly overpriced replica, in my mind, as well as diluting the market of truly OEM/untouched frames. Not trying to discount the hard work to repair a frame, but c'mon. I'd feel extremely cheated to buy a bike sold as original frame bike only to find out it was an extensive repair job. I would consider this more along the lines of "counterfeiting" than "restoring". That's also not to say that the quality isn't improved by this process, but....IT WILL NEVER BE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT again.

Not that sometimes the interpretation of restoration doesn't go exactly as to what was originally intended:

73691
73692
73694

This here is my OEM 45 Solo frame. If anyone has an unmolested crappy Taiwanese repop they'd trade me straight across for this OG casting and tube collection, I will pay shipping for BOTH.

73693

BuddhahoodVato
01-01-2017, 2:23 PM
Here's my biggest question; it's not OEM if it's not how it came from the factory. You've basically made an astoundingly overpriced replica, in my mind, as well as diluting the market of truly OEM/untouched frames. Not trying to discount the hard work to repair a frame, but c'mon. I'd feel extremely cheated to buy a bike sold as original frame bike only to find out it was an extensive repair job. I would consider this more along the lines of "counterfeiting" than "restoring". That's also not to say that the quality isn't improved by this process, but....IT WILL NEVER BE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT again.

Not that sometimes the interpretation of restoration doesn't go exactly as to what was originally intended:

73691
73692
73694

This here is my OEM 45 Solo frame. If anyone has an unmolested crappy Taiwanese repop they'd trade me straight across for this OG casting and tube collection, I will pay shipping for BOTH.

73693

This here is my OEM 45 Solo frame. If anyone has an unmolested crappy Taiwanese repop they'd trade me straight across for this OG casting and tube collection, I will pay shipping for BOTH.
I bet you would hombre.....

BuddhahoodVato
01-01-2017, 2:28 PM
Keenan, on the video again.. Kewl ass hombre, always enjoy my time at his shop..
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WQ4Ot3O34Zc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here is a side by side from someone with knowledge.

Whoremonger
01-01-2017, 10:58 PM
Keenan, on the video again.. Kewl ass hombre, always enjoy my time at his shop..

Tatro a super nice guy and knows ALOT. but man, he will talk your ear off !

Davestune
01-05-2017, 5:11 PM
Here's my biggest question; it's not OEM if it's not how it came from the factory. You've basically made an astoundingly overpriced replica, in my mind, as well as diluting the market of truly OEM/untouched frames. Not trying to discount the hard work to repair a frame, but c'mon. I'd feel extremely cheated to buy a bike sold as original frame bike only to find out it was an extensive repair job. I would consider this more along the lines of "counterfeiting" than "restoring". That's also not to say that the quality isn't improved by this process, but....IT WILL NEVER BE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT again.

Not that sometimes the interpretation of restoration doesn't go exactly as to what was originally intended:

73691
73692
73694

This here is my OEM 45 Solo frame. If anyone has an unmolested crappy Taiwanese repop they'd trade me straight across for this OG casting and tube collection, I will pay shipping for BOTH.

73693

not really , I mean if you have to replace the neck or axleplates then I see your point
hoops on a lot are cut off and can be repaired bent tubes or flatten out tubes can be fixed
But if your doing a restoration then a original frame is a must , tabs can be welded back on tool box mounts, proper brazing and or welding, for the year
If your building a period incorrect then hell ya
I like Harley frames but that's me
there are still plenty of frames out there but you have to look and some need more work than others, usually when the dash/tank mounts are cut off its a loss as hall marks and date code are gone for a correct build
prewar frames are a lot of cash usually 5k on up
this shit is getting harder and harder, my 39 80"flattie has a 41 to 45 unmolested frame, to me I'm happy its a HD frame as this is my period incorrect build, would I use a repop frame with it , Nope that's me. as those tiwan frames don't show correct and stick way the fuck out as stated above.

Again the OEM frames that are less unfucked sell higher reason being there are people with correct bikes or most the parts that need that frame
Its your ride you build it how ya want and none of this matters as long as you are happy
to me a period correct bobber or chopper is all Harley but that's me
one look for a casting tells all......