PDA

View Full Version : What's the best way to remove paint and body filler?



chupa
05-22-2014, 12:47 PM
Looking for advice from some paint and body gurus about the best way to take off paint and probably a little body filler. Trying to strip the a crazy frank type fender down to bare metal so I can weld some tabs on it and repaint it.

I have a compressor but it's a 4.5 hp and doesn't put out nearly enough air to sandblast.

I tried to spray stripper before it's messy and I didn't get great results.

Any tips?

farmall
05-22-2014, 2:55 PM
I take my nastier shit to a monument outfit. They use a sandblaster to cut tombstones and it cleans off molded frames and sheet metal nicely. Their coarse grit leaves plenty of tooth for coating adhesion.

If that blaster ain't workin' they ain't making money and side jobs such as blasting trailers are common. I wouldn't have anything delicate blasted that way but fenders do fine.

A knotted wire wheel in an angle grinder works pretty well. They are flesh-eating motherfuckers, especially the flat variety so don't wear loose clothing when using them. Every now and then a welding student wouldn't listen, but they got the point after some self-inflicted wheel rash.

Hold the grinder with BOTH hands, even small grinders, and secure your workpiece.

metalheart28
05-22-2014, 10:31 PM
the spray strip sucks. menards has some you wipe on with a brush that will strip anything. I just stripped some powder with it

NeoDutch
05-23-2014, 7:07 AM
Fire.

BuddhahoodVato
05-23-2014, 7:13 AM
Get some of that aircraft paint stripper, that shit is radical.

Cupmonkey
05-23-2014, 7:35 AM
A buddy of mine recommended the gel type air craft stripper over the spray type. Just did a tank a few months back and it worked like a charm

ACXL1K
05-23-2014, 9:40 AM
Fire.
yep, and a metal putty knife

AMFshovelheads
05-23-2014, 9:56 AM
Where do you guys buy that aircraft paint stripper stuff?

Jhax
05-23-2014, 10:17 AM
They sell it at advance auto, auto zone, lowes, etc. in the paint section. Shit is pretty gnarly, buy some heavy duty rubber gloves, work in a WELL ventilated area, and don't use any brushes you ever plan on reusing to apply it, wash the shit out of the parts after you are done with it or it will fuck up anything you apply over the residue

AMFshovelheads
05-23-2014, 10:47 AM
They sell it at advance auto, auto zone, lowes, etc. in the paint section. Shit is pretty gnarly, buy some heavy duty rubber gloves, work in a WELL ventilated area, and don't use any brushes you ever plan on reusing to apply it, wash the shit out of the parts after you are done with it or it will fuck up anything you apply over the residue

Thanks for the heads-up. I expected this stuff to be super toxic.

chupa
05-23-2014, 6:02 PM
Thanks for all the options. I'm going to try a few. I'm going to pick up a wire wheel for my angle grinder but in the mean time I'll give this a go tomorrow:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/dash13/5702B7BF-C522-46A3-8B2F-F860DFFD1277_zpsq8jwwblo.jpg (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/dash13/media/5702B7BF-C522-46A3-8B2F-F860DFFD1277_zpsq8jwwblo.jpg.html)

BuddhahoodVato
05-23-2014, 7:08 PM
That's the shit, that stuff is gnarly, gloves, no smoking, drinking, works tuff. Even gets rid of that dreaded PowerderCoating. I used a stiff wire woodened handle to get the stubborn shit off.
Thanks for all the options. I'm going to try a few. I'm going to pick up a wire wheel for my angle grinder but in the mean time I'll give this a go tomorrow:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/dash13/5702B7BF-C522-46A3-8B2F-F860DFFD1277_zpsq8jwwblo.jpg (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/dash13/media/5702B7BF-C522-46A3-8B2F-F860DFFD1277_zpsq8jwwblo.jpg.html)

SnakeArms
05-23-2014, 8:02 PM
Yeah, wear gloves. When that shit gets on your skin, you will know within seconds.

JamesM
05-23-2014, 10:17 PM
For body filler use a flap wheel until it's close to the metal and then switch over to 80 grit on a DA.

chupa
05-24-2014, 9:36 PM
Ok, first, you guys were right, this shit is gnarly as fuck. It burns your skin right through nitrile medical gloves. Had to pull out the leather. If a little drop flings on you you'll know it pretty quick.

First coat mostly just stripped the clearoat. Here's the bubble action right after I put it on.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/dash13/7B8D79C8-50B3-4CAF-B326-855ED4C099F9_zps7wd6jqqp.jpg (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/dash13/media/7B8D79C8-50B3-4CAF-B326-855ED4C099F9_zps7wd6jqqp.jpg.html)

This is after the third pass

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/dash13/60CC2E00-0D9F-4BD3-8ACE-BBA6906791BD_zpsg7hs2tfb.jpg (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/dash13/media/60CC2E00-0D9F-4BD3-8ACE-BBA6906791BD_zpsg7hs2tfb.jpg.html)

This is pass 5

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/dash13/478EB2AB-D73B-4D16-A482-B09D14E2E2BF_zpsubozwvin.jpg (http://s28.photobucket.com/user/dash13/media/478EB2AB-D73B-4D16-A482-B09D14E2E2BF_zpsubozwvin.jpg.html)

It seems like it's hell on paint, but the bondo is hanging tough. I'm going to switch up tomorrow and try another technique.

badseed
05-25-2014, 12:48 AM
For body filler a wire wheel on an electric grinder will do it. Just put on a dust mask and try not to get it overheated.

Slosh
05-26-2014, 1:36 PM
I used 4 1/2" angle grinder with a flap disk and a very light touch. You have to be careful and pay attention to what you are doing so that you don't start removing metal but it's the quickest way that I've found to remove paint and filler. For the tight spots switch to a wire wheel. After all is said and done hand sand it and you just may want to polish it and clear the bare metal 'cause it'll look that good.

theIVthcrusade
05-26-2014, 3:26 PM
I've always had good luck with these. Used one yesterday to strip the factory finish off a Sporty tank I had. http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/05/11/31/03/0005113103172_500X500.jpg