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HulkJoegan
05-13-2014, 8:52 AM
I was in the shed working on my 72 CB125, and when I turned the key, I could hear a bubbling, hissing sort of noise coming from my battery. It hadn't ran in a week or so and was dead, but this sound can't be normal. Is that a voltage regulator/rectifier problem? It stops immediately as I turn off the key.

Jetblack
05-13-2014, 4:41 PM
Yep it's over charging I don't know if these had a combo unit reg/rect or not I'm tempted to say it was just a rectifier to balance voltage. A Radio Shack Rectifier works great in that case, here's a nice write up on converting to a radio shack one http://www.herbaloutfitters.com/bike/rectifier_upgrade.html

If it is a combo rect/regulator than any 12v one will work even the el cheapos meant for scooters.

HulkJoegan
05-14-2014, 8:56 AM
Any idea on a part number? I had read up on this conversion in an old post you put up, but for replacing the battery with a capacitor and upgrading the lights to 12v. If I use this radio shack part, will I have to upgrade all my lights?

HulkJoegan
05-16-2014, 6:22 AM
i threw my battery on the charger for a few hours, swapped rectifiers to another I had sitting around, and then put it back on the bike. It keeps blowing fuses. No shorts that i can find. Is the battery fucked? Input?

Jetblack
05-16-2014, 12:01 PM
You're 6V with this bike huh? Well what voltage you have coming out of the batter when you meter it? Is the other rectifier hooked up right? (by component) not wire color. When you just go by wire color and not component tracing shit is most likely wrong... you can go battery free with your bike if you wanted too, it's equipt with an AC generator/magneto.

Here's a ton of detail on these rect. conversions, the numbers given in it are fine for 6V http://hondatrailcts.yuku.com/topic/466/Radio-Shack-Rectifier-Upgrade.

HulkJoegan
05-17-2014, 8:59 AM
My battery is reading just over six volts. I went through my whole harness and fixed any spots that's could be potential shorts. I replaced the stock rectifier with the radio shack part. Put the key in, turned it to power on, fuse still good, turned the kill switch to run, blew the fuse. My Chilton manual only calls for a 10A fuse and I have a 15A blade fuse. Pretty positive the rectifier is wired in correctly

HulkJoegan
05-22-2014, 8:32 AM
Could my coil be bad? I just replaced my condenser and cleaned my points, hoping to solve my problem, but it's still blowing the fuse about five seconds after the kill switch is turned to run, before i can even kick it once.

CraiGORE
05-22-2014, 8:53 AM
4 blades on that rectifier, 1 goes to the battery +, 1 goes to ground, they should be labeled. the other 2 blades are for the 2 wires coming off the stator, doesn't matter which one goes where, they're both passing AC voltage from the stator.


EDIT

Could my coil be bad? I just replaced my condenser and cleaned my points, hoping to solve my problem, but it's still blowing the fuse about five seconds after the kill switch is turned to run, before i can even kick it once.
you're blowing fuses??? really could be a bad ground somewhere, doubt it's coil. those old honda key switches shit out after a while. try disconnecting the switch, and bridging those ignition wires together with alligator clips, etc., to see if it's still happening. basically just bypass the switch and hotwire the bike and see if you're getting the same results.

HulkJoegan
05-22-2014, 9:00 AM
you're blowing fuses??? really could be a bad ground somewhere, doubt it's coil. those old honda key switches shit out after a while. try disconnecting the switch, and bridging those ignition wires together with alligator clips, etc., to see if it's still happening. basically just bypass the switch and hotwire the bike and see if you're getting the same results.

They key switch seems to be fine, I'll turn the power on with the key and the lights come on with no issues, it's just as soon as the kill switch on my right control is turned to run (thus sending power to the condenser, points and coil) it blows the fuse

siamesegun
05-22-2014, 10:24 AM
I would do a continuity check on the different components in the ignition circuit to determine which one is causing the current draw to ramp up. It's odd that you tried a different reg/rec and are still getting shorts. Check this page (http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm) out for some ideas on testing common m/c components with your meter. I also found a pretty nice diagram for your bike here (http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-fansite/wiring_diagrams.php) that might help when chasing this down.

Jetblack
05-23-2014, 4:31 PM
So when you flip the switch it blows the fuse? Have you checked to see if the bar switch is wired right or grounding out on anything? The switch has power to it, but when you flip to complete the circuit it grounds out somewhere and blows the fuse, so the wiring heading into the kill switch is fine, its either in the switch when you flip to run or down stream after it.

HulkJoegan
05-24-2014, 1:46 PM
I checked all components of the ignition loop, then decided to eliminate the kill switch. Put the key in, turned it on, fuse didn't blow. So I found the culprit. Tore the switch apart and it was full of pollen. FUCKING POLLEN! Cleaned that shit out and it works fine. Started first kick.