View Full Version : The Iron Rose

08-01-2013, 11:38 PM
thought i would throw up some pics of my current build. almost done. but still a lot of work left if you know what i mean. I need some input here. does anybody think the sissy bar is too tall? are the bars too skinny?? im thinking of putting an old skool bottle opener on the top of the sissy bar and/or shorten it. maybe widen the handlebars also. what say you.

08-02-2013, 12:56 AM
I think that sissy bar looks dope. But I prefer wider bars.

08-02-2013, 4:31 AM
looks fine to me.

08-02-2013, 9:23 AM
my vote is higher and less simple do something like straight up then bend it to a point

this is the one I did awhile ago.

http://imageshack.com/a/img252/3701/choppafeild.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/70choppafeildj/)Uploaded with ImageShack.com (http://imageshack.com)

08-02-2013, 11:17 PM
thanks for the comments guys. i decided to keep the tall sissy bar the bottle opener makes it kind of awesome imo. i will probably end up making so different bars. or just bend these at the top outward. i cant go any wider at the bottom or i will hit the tank. i definatley need a new seat this one is crap.i tried to go ratty style on the seat but its to ratty. might make a new one and try my hand at a little leather work next week..

Mark i love that dual headlight setup, except i want round ones. im having trouble finding one descent priced headlight , much less two though.

08-20-2013, 4:34 AM
Hey guys. I have been getting a few things here and there done on this bike, but Im having major troubles with the wiring. Its a rats nest. I was trying to hook up my taillight,and its went downhill from there.... The guy i bought it from removed the huge dash/gigantic gauge cluster, so there are all kinds of wires going every which way. i cant get the brake light to work for nothing. i trace the wires that are supposed to be brake light, but that leads no where. I finally got it to work then all of a sudden it stopped working. I tried tracing the wires for a blown fuse or bad connection but they lead to 10 different places and turn into like 4 wires. its a mess and is very frustrating. Electrical is not my forte. Words of advice???? i was thinking about just redoing all the wiring into a bare bones set up, and i have seen tons of simple diagrams, but i don't know where to start. Should i just rip all the wires out? should i trim carefully? Where should i start to trim/rip? HELP IS NEEDED SO BAD. I was hoping to get this thing on the road next week. Thanks guys

08-20-2013, 5:42 AM
JMO, make it simple,especially if you plan on keeping the bike for a while. The best way I've found to do wiring is to have a diagram, every time you run a wire trace each one out on the diagram with a hi lighter of a different color. Super easy Bro. Don't make it complicated.

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08-20-2013, 8:05 AM
There's some advice on wiring in the sticky at the top. My advice is trace label and snip out what you don't need for a first time custom wiring harness... if you have stupid shit like a reserve lighting unit you can just unplug the unit to help trim some bulk down, if you want to remove wiring bulk when you remove the item you don't want, trace the wire out and snip it at it's first tie in at the harness to another wire or component. Keep at that and it basically chops itself. A word on safety lock outs, those typically need to be grounded to complete the circuit and allow starting, those are clutch switch, side stand switch and nonsense like that. It's best to trace the main wire powering those systems to the IC unit then cut it leaving a little length then ground it to by pass them.

If you have an issue come up in the process feel free to pm me or post it on the board.

08-20-2013, 10:49 AM
Bars too skinny? What does that even mean? Those things are awesome, but to each his own.

08-20-2013, 5:59 PM
thanks link and jet. I'm gonna be trimming some wires tonight!! All safety circuits have already been removed though. Still the bike will go on a 10 lbs weight loss tonight. Whose in the DFW area that can help me put this wiring back together if i screw it up?!?!lol

BigRod, thanks at first i was leary about them, everday they grow on me more and more. Now im diggin em .

08-20-2013, 8:31 PM
thanks link and jet. I'm gonna be trimming some wires tonight!! All safety circuits have already been removed though. Still the bike will go on a 10 lbs weight loss tonight. Whose in the DFW area that can help me put this wiring back together if i screw it up?!?!lol

BigRod, thanks at first i was leary about them, everday they grow on me more and more. Now im diggin em .

He'll j12 I'm in Arlington.

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08-20-2013, 9:12 PM
awesome link! im right off of 35 By Loves in Burleson. When i screw this up how much will you charge me to get it running ill buy the wires and parts. PM if you interested and ill send you my number.

In about an hour im gonna get to trimmin. Wish me luck!

08-20-2013, 11:14 PM
Before i started rewiring i wanted to start it one last time to make sure it was running well, so if i screwed something up i would know for sure its my wiring.... MY luck, after i shut the bike down gas was pouring out of carb #2 . I bet its just a stuck float but still. another set back. If its not one thing it another. It gets frustrating but hey its still fun!

08-21-2013, 6:06 AM
I have some horrible A.D.D. hears a few things I been doing. I'm trying to get some practice in for when i make the seat.

08-21-2013, 8:12 PM
Yeah j12, I'm down to help you. Only thing is we would have to do it around my work schedule and I'd rather do it here at my place where I have Damon near every tool I need at an arms reach. I do some custom shit on my back porch. I call it Back Porch Choppers.

I think I'll be home this weekend if you can get that beast over to my place we can knock it out.

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08-21-2013, 11:13 PM
yeah link ive seen your blog. Awesome stuff man. as for getting it over there thats gonna be the challenge. my dumba$$ sold my only truck and got a gt. lol so unless i strap it on top i dont see me getting it over there until its ride able, then at that point ill definatley be by to see what your up to and maybe a few brews. I wanna take this thing to a few get togethers i hear about up in oklahoma and stuff. I took my gixxer up to bikes blues and bbq but i really wanna see the nity grity biker get togethers for some inspiration for my next project and stuff

Anyways heres a little update. Pretty much my dilemma is trying to get the brake light to work. I finally got the running light to work on it ( i just put a wire to ignition for now) now im just trying to figure out why i cant get the brake switches to work. i want to just splice right into either the front or rear brake switch so im legal. At the brake switches i put a test light to the wires and pull the brake and nothing..... I don't know Sh!t about electrical so I don't know if its because the switch itself isn't getting power to it or what. I have the manual and im looking at the diagram , but this electrical crap wears me out, and pisses me off lol. any suggestions?

08-22-2013, 2:51 AM
can somebody help me out here.... im trying to wire up a taillight. it takes the same bulb as the stocker, and i cant figure it out. My wiring is a freaking rats nest, but all i need is brake light and rear running light. I got my running light wired up and works. but my brake light will not come on. Ive tried to wire it straight to the rear brake switch and it still doesn't work.... There are two wires on the rear brake switch i tested them with a multimeter one wire has .04 volts when key is on and the other has .04 volts when i push the rear brake. Also the front brake is the same reading. Is that not enough volts to turn the bulb on ? I tried to put a wire from the brake light to the wire that switches on when the brake is applied....

08-22-2013, 3:37 AM
Where in DFW you at? I've got a truck we can load it up in and bring it by Links. Get it all cleaned up and have some brews, I'm pretty sure I'm off this weekend too, you down Link?

08-22-2013, 4:17 AM
I live like one mile off of I35W between ft worth and burleson. i got to move my uncle this weekend. Hate to turn down a good time like that and i appreciate the offer though! we def need to get together on a ride though. Nobodyh to ride with around here. if you want me to ill PM you my number so if something is going down you can let me know.

On a side note 10 beers, 2 cans of snuff , 1 big bag of spits and , half a leftover pizza later i got the tail light to work . I still got to make a mount and all that good stuff, but since shes running good and i know the electric works i can get back to the fabbin and such. I HATE ELECTRICAL. Its probably so simple too. like LINK said i probably just making it complicated.. Im gonna go get some sleep now. and back at it tomorrow night . PEACE OUT

08-22-2013, 5:40 AM
Where in DFW you at? I've got a truck we can load it up in and bring it by Links. Get it all cleaned up and have some brews, I'm pretty sure I'm off this weekend too, you down Link?

He'll Yeah I'm down. Let's work this out and get J12 back on the road. Maybe we will fire up the grill as well. Y'all give me a ring a ding 9173234557.

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08-23-2013, 4:17 PM
link and punk definately gonna need your help now.........
I got the bike all wired up i didnt change anything to the wiring i just added wires for the taillight. When I start it up its real sluggish sounds like only 2 cylinders are firing. then after a minute it sounds good. So i took it around the block or tried to . I couldnt even get out of first gear. I had the enging almost pegged out and it still just dies. I dont know if its clutch or the two ignition coils bad or what. Maybe valves out of adjustment????

08-23-2013, 4:37 PM
link and punk definately gonna need your help now.........
I got the bike all wired up i didnt change anything to the wiring i just added wires for the taillight. When I start it up its real sluggish sounds like only 2 cylinders are firing. then after a minute it sounds good. So i took it around the block or tried to . I couldnt even get out of first gear. I had the enging almost pegged out and it still just dies. I dont know if its clutch or the two ignition coils bad or what. Maybe valves out of adjustment????

J12, I know I said I was down to help and I am the problem is I was just told today that I've got to be in Lake Charles LA. Monday mornong for my next job. I apologize Bro. Hopefully Punk can help. I am looking forward to getting together with you guys though.

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08-23-2013, 9:46 PM
no problem Link yeah let me get my bike going and well go on a ride or something..

Could this problem be that the carbs are flooding out?

08-24-2013, 12:41 AM
Might wanna try slipping some socks over over the pods and see what happens, if you're getting too much air flow pegging the throttle and not going anywhere fast is pretty common. If the clutch isn't adjusted correctly same thing from it too. Make sure you have fire on all the plugs, and that all the pipes are heating up.

08-24-2013, 1:29 AM
I'm wayyy to shitfaced to know if I can help this weekend or not. Send me a pm so I'll see it in the morning. Probably can tomorrow...

08-24-2013, 3:12 AM
lol Thanks 904punk.

Jet thanks for the help! I think is is a combination of a little bit of everything. Also the carb slides wont budge at all so thats probably a big issue lol. As much as i love this bike I hate a four carb setup very much!

08-24-2013, 4:31 PM
Ah, slides can be put in backwards in some carb models, but if you know they are in the right way, and can lift them by sticking a finger in the intake pretty easy, then you might have a vacuum problem that's not raising them when the butterfly opens. If you can't finger raise them at all by finger or it's really tough in backwards. Aluminum oxidizes like a fine grit of sand paper out two of those together and you get sticky slides, I make it a point to polish vacuum operated slides so they glide nice and easy.

Note to people with cable operated slides, do not sand or polish those.

08-25-2013, 1:12 AM
o jeeze. At first i just thought maybe the oxidization stuck them but the other day when i had the bike running i didn't notice the slides moving while on the throttle. any idea as to where the vacuum leak would be?I should add that the previous owner put a harley petcock on the bike. it doesnt have the stock petcock that had two hoses coming out of it. I will also ass that the bike ran descent before with this harley petcock.

08-25-2013, 2:07 PM
Ah it probably had a vacuum operated petcock on it the carbs vacuum is what powered it... aka that "second hose" find where on the carbs the petcock vacuum hose went and cap it... there may be two of them if it T'd to cap off. You can find rubber hose barb caps at hardware stores, you could also in a pinch use some shirnk tube from wiring on it to shrink on the fitting and while the shrink tube is hot squeeze the end together with your fingers to seal the end.

08-25-2013, 8:55 PM
thanks jet. ill try that got a lot of work to do on this thing!

08-26-2013, 1:07 AM
It will make your life easier in the long run if you rip out all the stock wiring and start fresh. Old japanese wiring harnesses suck ass.

08-26-2013, 10:37 PM
Yeah your probably right james. As a matter of fact Im going to redo all the wiring probably not for another month though. I want to get some shakedown runs out of the way and probably change a few things.

08-28-2013, 1:38 AM
k so, (queso) all vacuums are good to go now. I cleaned up the carbs including the car slides they were really stuck. It ran a helluva lot better. Started up pretty good got it to idle pretty good. drove it around a little bit ran OK. But if i get on the throttle hard is bogs and runs bad. I also noticed some blue flames out the exhaust every so often with a little backfire here and there. Later im going to get a feeler gauge set to measure the valve clearances, some clear fuel tubing to wet set the carbs again. Anybody else have any suggestions or guesses? LOL thanks guys your awesome

08-28-2013, 2:59 AM
Nice, so far so good. The bogging is from too much fuel being dumped in the cylinder when you crack it open flooding the plugs... the back fire and flames... is the unburnt fuel that makes it into the exhaust pipes past the combustion chamber.

So you need to add more air to the mixture... two ways to vary the mixture way of the A/F screws to add more air, or the needle jets need to be raised up a tad to help bust the fuel into a finer mist... either you go down a notch with the clip if it has one, or put a small brass washer under them to get a thinner part of the needle when opening the throttle.

One more thing that can cause this... incorrect float height.

My advice is to first turn the A/F screws out one full turn more than what they are now, make sure to always seat A/F screws counting turns in, then add one more turn(360) to tht number and back them out when adjusting them... don't say I know they are at 1.5 out then twist them out 1 more turn, that's a bad adjustment. So try that first and see what happens.

If that doesn't clear it, then open the carb tops and go down a clip or washer shim the needles. Then see what happens.

You want to be looking for signs of a rich or lean condition when doing these adjustments. Lean will make small pops on deceleration and rich will bog down.

If you still have a rich condition after the above two... you need to pull the carbs and set the float height, if they are at the stock height raise the height 1mm over the stock number.

Some times this is not a carb issue, but a timing issue if it starts the first time or two you can count timing out. The other thing is a dry, sticking spark advance simply hit that shit with some lube unless the springs are shot running it lubed will work it's issues out.

Well, that's the complete chain of all I can currently think of that would could and can produce this issue. Starting with the most likely and easiest to check and try. Do one step at a time, check it. Note if it helped or got worse, if it got worse undo what you just did, if it got better but could use a tad more, if you are no more than 3 to 3.5 turns out go out a little more with those as the limit of turns, more than that your pilot is too small. If better but at 3 or 3.5 turns out raise the needle jets.

If that solves it great if not time to crack the bowls and go after the floats, first make sure they are at the stock height if not set them to stock first if that doesn't add the 1mm...

Note all of the above carb adjustments lean it by a small amount, you may only need one or perhaps two if them to balance it. Make sure to clean and check the gap on your plugs since all that fuel flooding hasn't been doing them any favors... although a motor running on the rich side is better than one that's too lean.

08-28-2013, 3:23 AM
Thanks alot jetblack. I really appreciate the help. Im gonna try these things tonight and will report back. Hopefully i cant report back becuase ill be busy on another shakedown run, in this case ill report back tomorrow. lol thanks again

08-30-2013, 1:09 AM
Yeah i have been pretty busy so i havent gotten anything done to the bike latley as far as the carb issues, but i had to take a pic.

09-02-2013, 12:32 PM
Okay, I wet set the floats cleaned up the carbs a little more, and a few other things, now it runs 90 percent better. the only problem now is throttle response. Runs great , the throttle response is just a little slow, im assuming just some fine tuning should fix that up. In that case i will need to find some carb experts around here. Im just so tired of messing with this carb rack lol. got the licence plate and brake light mounted. now i just got to make the seat and tool some leather. pics to come soon.

09-03-2013, 3:51 PM
Heres a couple pics of how i mounted the plate/brake light. I hate it, but it was the only way i could mount it without it interferring with a passenger (if my OL will ride lol).... Pics come complete with cluttered bars, huge ugly headlight, and half ass running bike.Runs great for 10 or so minutes then when its warm and i hit the throttle it bogsdown really bad. I just bought feeler gauges today to check valve clearances. any input?Thanks guy

EDIT: I know the electrical under the seat is horrible. Im trying to get a few things buttoned up before i tackle that animal.

09-07-2013, 2:02 AM
valves are in spec now, carbs clean and synched. now when i give it throttle it studders then clears out and takes off like a rocket . All plugs are as black as can be and sooty.

09-08-2013, 11:40 PM
Running on the rich side, so when you whack it the plugs flood and lose spark, lean the carb(s) a tad by moving the clips up one on the needle jets or removing a washer shim if you have them and you should be good to go.

09-10-2013, 3:23 AM
Thanks jet, I raised the clip up one thus moving the needle down one in the carb body. Its the only available notch left, so i will try this but if its still to rich i have one shim washer i can take out also. i was gonna say hell with the neighbors and crank it up but being 4am ill just wait till morning. or atleast later morning.

Also on a side note. the main jets are 136's. i read somewhere that the suggested jets with my mods are 126. So do you think i should just go ahead and get the 126 jets?

09-10-2013, 2:12 PM
I think it may be a little large, but with open pipes and pods going back to stock will be the same deal... but running too lean then instead. I think you can adjust around it, by how you say it's acting. If it's still a bit rich after the needle raise... back the A/F screws another turn out, to bring more air to the mixture. Clipping 2.5 to 3 turns off your slide springs if you have them in or drill out your slides vacuum hole with a bit... both accomplish the same thing, and typically gets rid of that initial pause when you whack the throttle.

09-10-2013, 3:43 PM
much appreciated jet.
I ran the bike around a little bit. Ran a heck of alot better but still rich after the one notch adjustment on the needle in the diaphragm. Next im going to take out the shim washers on the needle.

so let me get this straght. the mixture screws are on the top of the carbs right next to the choke, so if i back them out thats more air less fuel?? I was under the impression that turning them IN is less fuel more air. This might be my problem since they were originally at 3 turns OUT and i changed it to 2.5 turns OUT thinking that would provide less fuel more air. Sorry for being so "green" i havent dealt with adjusting a 4 carb setup very much besides this bike. Thanks again for the help

09-10-2013, 4:03 PM
What carbs are you running? On CV types the A/F screws are typically found on the bottom on the air filter side of the venturi.

09-10-2013, 4:07 PM
hitachi carbs

Edit: i just read that turn the screws in = leaner and turn them out = richer.
The recommended starting point is 2.5-3.0 turns out. Maybe i should just turn them 1 turn in and see what happens.

09-10-2013, 4:24 PM
Ah... a special case away from the usual, if you do not mind then I will direct you to this thread, where the folks are way more versed on that carb than I. Many carb theories apply across the board, but some specific carbs have peculiarties that do not cross. I'll read it myself to get a better understanding of this types specifics as well.


Here's a diagram if you don't have one for the carb bank, the A/F screw is after the venturi, so you are indeed right on about the mixture turn direction... that being said try a .5 to 3/4 turn in instead of 1 turn out.



Please be aware in research I have found that the Haynes manual is wrong about the jet locations... here is where they all belong if you used Haynes as guide.

The MAIN (Air) Jet and the PILOT (Air) Jet are Opposite from FUEL Jets.
The MAIN (Fuel) Jet is the one with the Larger Metering Port.
The MAIN (Air) Jet is the one with the Smaller Metering Port.

09-10-2013, 4:49 PM
Another note, these ports are notorious for being clogged so bad it requires a good probing to remove all the shit out of them... soaking alone typically won't cut it.


09-10-2013, 9:45 PM
thanks jet i will check that thread out. and thanks for the diagram. about the enrichemment ports yeah i cleaned them hardcore with a wire tip cleaner.. thanks for your help and support.

09-17-2013, 4:32 AM
Bike still runs like crap. I've done everything i can think of and everything i have ready about, except vacuum sync. Still running rich and if i hold the throttle steady the idle climbs. Anyways heres a couple things i been doing. Solo bag and seat. My lacing skills suck and the strap on the bag needs some more work.

09-17-2013, 4:39 PM
All across the web there's talk of how much a pain in the ass Hitachi carb banks are to tune. You definitely need to sync them, trying to tune without it is virtually impossible how these are designed. Aside from getting a different brand of carbs to run; you'll have to go through a sync using exact instructions for these particular carbs.

I wish it was a matter of jetting, setting and bench sync like every other brand of carb bank, but unfortunately that's not the case with these.

Here's a DIY, YICS tool and instructions for use:


Here's a Discussion about the tools use in tuning:


Nice leather work man

09-17-2013, 8:10 PM
I will get to vacuum syncing jet. i didn't know if i could fix the rich problem pre vac sync or not. That being said once again thanks for the words of wisdom.

09-30-2013, 11:32 PM
got the carp problems fixed. For the most part. It just a little rich still, poor gas mileage, but runs great just needs a small fine tune. Found another problem. going down the road if i get on the throttle it revs as if it was in neutral and the bike does not go faster. This only happens if i get on the throttle hard. If i am just casually driving it does not do this. What are the chances that i just need to adjust the clutch? Im guessing unfortunately the clutch needs to be replaced. What do you guys think?