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Fiend
03-07-2010, 6:48 PM
This will work for any 3 Phase charging system.

Go to Advance Auto Parts and get a regulator for a mid-70s Ford pickup for $13.
It has 5 wire connections:
A+ -- Battery +
F -- Field 1
S -- Not Used
I -- Ignition
Case - Ground

The F terminal goes to one of the two field wires (brush wires to the rotor). The other field wire goes to ground. "I" goes to your switched power and A goes straight to battery voltage. You want to ground the case somehow.

As far as the regulators go, no matter what company sells them they are all basically the same.
You will have 4 pins...you will be able to figure out what pin is what on the regulator Im sure.
One pin isnt used, its for a dummy light on the fords......
One pin goes to +Batt terminal
One pin goes to switched 12V
One pin goes to the White Stator wire, your Green Stator wire goes to -Batt terminal
(ground the regulators case when mounting it)

Bolt the Regulator to something metal.
The chip inside there is actually alot smaller than the box around it.
If you wanted to get crazy you could rip that box apart and fab a smaller box for it,
just leave enough meat somewhere to drill a hole for mount/ground.
Heat isnt an issue with the Reg either so you can put it anywhere.

Here are some Pics of the Ford truck regulator opposed to a stock SOHC CB750 regulator.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 6:49 PM
Ford regulator opened up.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 6:50 PM
Case trimmed down.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 6:52 PM
There is one problem with using this regulator however, it has no rectifier built in.
In all reality your best bet for a Rectifier is Ebay, search for: Three Phase Bridge Rectifier.

There are several sellers that offer an 80Amp 1000Volt rectifer totally incased with factory heatsinks for 12-16 shipped. Its built like a brick shithouse.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 6:54 PM
Wiring the rectifier is a lot simpler than it looks.
The three(yellow) wires that come out of the alternator are three-phase AC power.
The rectifier will convert this power to DC.
Just to make it simple, I'll use the three-phase rectifier from above as an example.
Three of the lugs will be labeled with a "~" which denotes AC power.
The output of your alternator goes directly to these three lugs.
The "-" lug goes to the negative terminal of your battery, and the "+" goes to the positive terminal.
Since the regulator varies the output directly from the alternator, this is all you need to do with the rectifier.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 6:58 PM
There are 5 pins on these 3 phase rectifiers....
3 pins are the 3 yellows from Stator
+pin goes to +Batt terminal
-pin goes to - Batt terminal
(Just remember the case needs to be grounded, and the ground from the rectifier needs to go to -Batt terminal.)

The charge voltage is right at 13.3v, and it'll charge from 1500rpm and up.
Which is quite a bit lower rpms than stock.
You'll never have to worry about burning your headlight bulbs or overcharging your battery because the electronic regulator keeps the voltage perfectly constant. Also, since it charges at 13.3v instead of 14.4v, you don't have to worry about boiling your battery in the summer time.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 7:04 PM
Screw a 100.00 Reg/Rec unit... You just built one for a grand total of 30 some bones.


Any 3 phase recitifier will work as long as its ATLEAST 35A / 600V.

If you really want to save $ build your own rectifier using two of these, .44 cents a piece.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 7:07 PM
Wired up like so.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 7:10 PM
Alternately, you could simply use one of these, 1.70 for this 3 phase model.

Fiend
03-07-2010, 7:13 PM
Both kinds of square bridge rectifiers are easily had on ebay.

Now the thing about these kind of rectifiers which is doodoo, these is no heatsink.
You will need to fab a heatsink for any of these cheaper rectifiers.

Notice how all of them have a hole in the center for mounting?
Well, we just took a stock rectifier and removed the shaft from the center of the metal "box".
Pulled all the shit out so we were just left with the empty metal shell and center bolt.
Then stuck the rectifier in the stock shell with the center bolt.

All in all much easier to buy a really beefy one on Ebay with heatsinks etc for 16 shipped...

Fiend
03-07-2010, 7:15 PM
Props to the sohc4 guys for this.

jake1618
03-08-2010, 11:49 AM
Great write up, I'm attempting to do this right now with my 71' CB450. I'm currently only using one Radioshack 25A 50v rectifier do I need to go to a larger 50A to avoid issues with this bike?

Fiend
03-08-2010, 3:59 PM
I would go to 35A or higher.
Better safe than sorry.

jake1618
03-08-2010, 6:33 PM
thats what I was assuming thanks again for the how to

slimvulcanrider
03-10-2010, 6:30 PM
Need a little help with this mod... I need a new R/R on my Kawasaki VN750, and since I am such a modder and cheapskate, I was thinking of doing this. I read all of it and it seams pretty simple.

My question is in reguards to wiring it all up.

My stock R/R has 6 pins, 3 field wires from the stator, 1 battery, 1 ground, and 1 wire for Monitor. I understand all the stuff with hooking up the Rectifier, but how do I hook up the Voltage regulator?

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/ChargingSystemWiringDiagram-1.jpg

ChoppyGee
03-11-2010, 2:48 PM
I posted this up somewhere for my XS but yours in much more detailed . I love these Reg/Recs much cheaper and if it goes out you can get new parts in any town on the road.

slimvulcanrider
03-11-2010, 10:23 PM
I posted this up somewhere for my XS but yours in much more detailed . I love these Reg/Recs much cheaper and if it goes out you can get new parts in any town on the road.

I agree, but my diagram isn't for a Reg/Rec... its the stock charging system, and need help on how to wire this up... i don't have the green wire mentioned in the first post

NM as i read it again, for the umpteenth time, I finally saw what i was missing, the green wire changes to my stock black with yellow stripe, and the brown wire goes to the unused ford dummy light spot.

kevoid
03-31-2010, 2:57 PM
I understand the hooking up the rectifier easy enough, but I am having a little difficulty in understanding how to hook up the regulator. My motorcycle has the following 5 wires going into the regulator/rectifier: 3 - yellow, 1- red, and 1 black with a white stripe. Here is what I understand so far...

The three yellow wires will be going into the rectifier. Out of the rectifier will be a positive and a negative wire which go directly to the the +/- battery posts. And, here is where I get lost. What do I do with the 1-red wire and 1-black with white stripe wire?

Here are your directions with my questions in (...):
1) One pin isnt used, its for a dummy light on the fords
- (easy enough - don't use it?)
2) One pin goes to +Batt terminal
- (easy enough - hook it directly to + battery terminal?)
3) One pin goes to switched 12V
- (what is switched 12V? Which wire is it on mine?)
4) One pin goes to the White Stator wire
- (Is this the black wire with white stripe?)
5) ,your Green Stator wire goes to -Batt terminal
- (I have no green stator wire, so what do I do?)

There are green and blue wires that hook up to the pickup coil in my bike. This bike has the stator and pickup coil wire together as a set with the following 5 wires: 3-yellow, 1-green, 1-blue. Maybe I am confused between the wires plugging into the R/R and the wires coming from the stator/pick-up-coil?

The bike I am putting this on is a little Hyosung GV250 so it is considered metric. Not sure if that really matters but I figured better to give you a heads up just in case.

Thanks for all the help, I am unemployed and can't afford a $100 dollar stator...

Edit starts here:

Does the switched 12V mean 12V wire to Ignition Switch?
And, is the switched 12V the negative or positive side?

Thanks again...

slimvulcanrider
04-01-2010, 1:38 PM
1) One pin isnt used, its for a dummy light on the fords
- (easy enough - don't use it?) This is your red wire.

One pin goes to the White Stator wire
- (Is this the black wire with white stripe?) No the black/white stripe goes to ground, the S terminal is not used on a perminant magnet stator. The S is only used for electro-magnetic stators that have 4 wires comin gout of the stator. On the Electrical systems that use a 6 pin R/R, and only have 3 wires coming out of the Stator.

Does the switched 12V mean 12V wire to Ignition Switch?
And, is the switched 12V the negative or positive side? Switched means Key on power scource, and it is positive...
Take a look at my wiring diagram, it should be close to your stock wiring diagram. and jsut wire it up accordingly... you can even use your stock wiring harness to wire this up... Your stock R/R connector should use 1/4" Male spades on the R/R... just wire up everything with malae spades into the stock locations.

Yellow... stator feild windings (3 wires)
White wire is battery Positive
Red is Monitor wire (brown in my diagram)
Black with White Stripe is ground (black with yellow strip in my diagram)

so to wire in the rectifier, 3 yellow wires go the field, One wire goes to positive wire on the Voltage regulator (A+) One wire runs to the Voltage Regulator Case Ground
To wire up the Voltage regulator, A+ plugs into the White wire, F not use in your application, S plugs into Red wire, I plugs into a keyed power scource... (Ignition Coil feed wire would be a good one... or tie it into your red wire.), Case ground plugs into the black with white stripe.

I hope that cleared up your problems.

kevoid
04-01-2010, 7:09 PM
Hey SlimVulcanRider, I appreciate the help.

However, I don't have a white wire. (see "A+ plugs into the White wire" above)
The original R/R to my GV250 has 5 wires going to it: 3-yellow, 1-red, 1-black with white stripe (BW).

So, I understand the following concerning the Rectifier:
Rectifier takes the 3 yellow stator wires.
Positive from Rectifier goes to A+ on Regulator
Negative from Rectifier grounds to Regulator case???

And, I think I understand the following about the Regulator:
F is not used in my case.
S and I go to the red wire that presently goes to the original R/R
The BW wire, that presently goes to the original R/R, grounds to regulator case???
But, I do not have a white wire...

Hope I am not being too dence here...
But, I want to make sure I get it right the first time and I am on a learning curve here, so...
Thanks again for the help...

slimvulcanrider
04-01-2010, 9:00 PM
Ok I miss understood you... Red in your case is Battery Positive. BW is Battery Negative. and since you are running a five wire R/R, S and F are not used. S is used to energize the Electromagnet of the stator, the F pin is used a low voltage monitor. so unless you decide to run a Voltage Gauge you don't need to run F either.

So Red= A+ and BW= Case ground on the Voltage Regulator, for the Rectifier, Run ground streight to battery. but tie the positive terminal of the rectifier in with the Red wire.

kevoid
04-02-2010, 8:15 AM
OK, SlimVulcanRider - I THINK I got it now.

I have worked up a drawing and put it into PDF form.
Lets see if I can get it to post so that you can check my work.

However, I am not sure about the BW wire.
But, you stated that "S and F" are not used.
So, I just kind of assumed that the BW wire goes to "I and case ground".
But, it may be red goes to "I" also (so, red wire would go to "A and I")?
And, the BW wire goes from bike wiring harness to case ground only?

I am hoping to get a good drawing of this that can be passed around.

Thanks again for all the help...
Kevoid

kevoid
04-02-2010, 8:38 AM
Hey SlimVulcanRider.

Here another drawing showing the R wire going to "A and I" and BW going to "case ground."

Blackjack
04-03-2010, 4:59 AM
Ok, I just got out of bed and my brain is working at minimal cpapacity, so maybe I'm missing something here, but...

70's Ford trucks would have field effect alternators right? And CB750s and XS650s have field effect alternators too, so all well and good.

But I'm pretty sure it's not going to work with a permanent magnet three phase alternator.

Basically if you toss a steel washer at the alternator, and it sticks to something, it's a permanent magnet alternator, or you used a sticky washer.

Neither the XS or the CB have a magnet in the alternator, they use a set of windings to create an electro magnetic field (hence "field effect") and the regulator works by switching the current to that winding. Stock XS/ CB electro mechanical junk has a resistor to drop the voltage to the field windings and that drops the AC output (or switches it off..).

You can't do that with a permanent magnet alternator, all you can do is divert the excess AC or DC to ground and that's why you need large ass heat sinks with that type of alternator. So this won't work if your alternator has a magnet with the power off.

I've never messed with a Vulcan that deep, but the wiring diagram look like a permanent magnet job to me.

But, like I said, I just got out of bed....

kevoid
04-03-2010, 8:33 AM
I thought the reason "F" wasn't used was because the Hyosung GV250 stator set up had no field, basically doing the mod thing on the ford regulator to make it work? Or, is there no way to make a regulator designed for a field to work on a perm magnet type system?

My stator has no magnetism (checked an old one I have), but as far as the part the spins around it? I can't check it with out tearing the bike apart. But off the top of my head I believe it's basically nothing but a big magnet spinning around the stator. Still in a learning curve here trying learn the whys that connect to the what’s - lol. But, the original R/R does get very hot on the vn750s (owned one) and the GV250's (own one presently).

But, if a separate rectifier and regulator are used wouldn't the rectifier be getting all the heat? And, on the GV250, the regulator has the BW wire going to case ground and the rectifier would be case grounded also. If the rectifier takes the heat, and has a good cooling fin setup, and possibly put in a location where it gets plenty of air flow (a vn750 mod for R/R’s)…
Then, wouldn’t the only question be if the ford regulator can be rigged to divert the access AC/DC current to ground (unless, for some reason I don’t know about, the regulator would take the heat because it wasn’t designed for the permanent magnet system?)

Also, there is possibly and alternative.
I direct this to the pros who know…
What about the old 60’s Chrysler type regulators?
They just have two connections and the case acts as ground?
Advance Auto Parts #R280P
They are about $10 more, but still cheaper than $100 for future replacements….

Now I really want to stick with this – lol…
It’s got in my blood…
I say we bust this, rewrite this, draw it out, and pass it on…

kevoid
04-03-2010, 2:49 PM
I copied a diagram from the Hyosung service manual for a GV250.
It shows the Stator, R/R, Battery, and Iignition Switch...

Here is the diagram I made up:

Blackjack
04-04-2010, 7:42 AM
That looks like permanent magnet too. You got three AC out, usually all yellow on Jap stuff, and nothing else from the alternator, it's permanent magnet.

kevoid
04-04-2010, 10:48 AM
That looks like permanent magnet too. You got three AC out, usually all yellow on Jap stuff, and nothing else from the alternator, it's permanent magnet.

Appreciate the response Blackjack.
Check out the attachment here if you would please and let me know if you believe this would work.

I have been trying to find diagrams on Perm Mag type regulators and field type regulators as I have no idea if a field type regulator (as in the ford one we are talking about) can be used on Perm Mag type charging system as my attachment shows...

I am finding lots of info on what the different types do, but not much of anything on diagrams, schematics, etc...

slimvulcanrider
04-04-2010, 1:41 PM
your l;ast diagram will almost work...Terminal "I" has to go to a switched scource... i.e. headlight, ignition system, or any where else you get battery voltage with the key on. If I were hooked directly to battery you will have a constant battery draw through the VR...
I have the same set up you are trying to do... this is how mine is wired up.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n285/slimcowboy1978/2007nHyosungGV250.jpg

kevoid
04-04-2010, 3:27 PM
Ok - well, I am getting there - lol.
Thanks for your help and efforts SlimVulcanRider.
I do have another question however.
The diagram you posted is blurry in my browser and I am not sure about the wire color going from "I to IG switch." Is that wire red or black (positive or negative)? it looks kind of both in my browser...

I am not sure if it matters or not, but my BW is ignition switched sensitive (I think).
If I use a multimeter on DC volts from the BW wire to ground I get a reading of 0.0 with ignition off and 0.04 with ignition on. Not sure if that is even a valid test (LOL), but I figured I'd through it out and see what happens.

Also, I have an orange wire with a connection close to the RR connector that is ignition switch sensitive.
I get nothing with the ignition off and 12 plus volts with the ignition on. The connection point I am talking about leads back to the the turn signals and rear brake light. Would that work for "I" (orange is positive)?

I will go back and follow the orange wire and see what else it runs to...
(OK - orange seems to be tide into all the lights including up front to the headlight and all connections are ignition sensitive)

I already bought the ford regulator and the 3-phase 80 amp rectifier is on it's way from eBay.
Hoping to slap this thing together and take the bike out for a ride

Thanks again,
Kevoid

kevoid
04-04-2010, 4:27 PM
OK - for all you R/R mod cats that have been anxiously awaiting...
I roll out the "2007 Hyosung 250 Rectifier_Regulator Mode.pdf" for final grading...
Please inspect, grade, and comment appropriately - lol....
MANY, MANY, THANKS TO THOSE WHO HAVE PUT UP WITH ME!!!

slimvulcanrider
04-04-2010, 11:51 PM
that looks like it should work... I am researching using a GM internal voltage regulator, since they have a three wire hook up... I think it would be more of a direct plug and play aproach.

kevoid
04-05-2010, 6:06 AM
that looks like it should work... I am researching using a GM internal voltage regulator, since they have a three wire hook up... I think it would be more of a direct plug and play aproach.

Are you using the ford truck regulator mod on your bike now?
Just wondering as I haven't really read anyone using this on our type of charging system (perm mag type)...

Have you looked at the old Chrysler regulator?
Here is the Advance Auto Parts number: R280P.
They are more expensive, but are smaller and only have two connections and case ground...

Here are a couple links to internal regulators on eBay, are these the type you are talking about?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTERNAL-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-PONTIAC-CHEVROLET-JEEP-BUICK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a80b3b8bQQitemZ 230452575115QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTERNAL-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-1969-1990-GM-D668-668_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2e99880f46QQitemZ20 0144326470QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories

They sure would be smaller and easier to tuck away...

slimvulcanrider
04-05-2010, 1:31 PM
Are you using the ford truck regulator mod on your bike now?
Just wondering as I haven't really read anyone using this on our type of charging system (perm mag type)...

Have you looked at the old Chrysler regulator?
Here is the Advance Auto Parts number: R280P.
They are more expensive, but are smaller and only have two connections and case ground...

Here are a couple links to internal regulators on eBay, are these the type you are talking about?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTERNAL-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-PONTIAC-CHEVROLET-JEEP-BUICK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a80b3b8bQQitemZ 230452575115QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTERNAL-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-1969-1990-GM-D668-668_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2e99880f46QQitemZ20 0144326470QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories

They sure would be smaller and easier to tuck away...

Yes, those are the kind I am talking about... i know one wire goes to battery, the case goes to ground, what is the third wire used for on the GM Voltage regulators?

kevoid
04-05-2010, 2:01 PM
what is the third wire used for on the GM Voltage regulators?

I am not sure. All I know is the AdvanceAutoParts guy said he has bypassed internal and body control regulators and said that there was ground, hot, and sensing wires on the Chrysler external one....

I have been trying to find a schematic/diagram for the insides of the ford truck regulator online, but haven't been able to find one. I'd like to see for myself just what goes on inside before I hook stuff up. I pretty much figured out the insides the gv250 R/R. I still don't fully understand why I have to use the extra switched wire with the ford truck regulator though, as the gv250 doesn't use it - so it feels a little weird. If I run across the ford external or gm internal regulator diagrams I will post them...

I am thinking about hooking the ford regulator up on the battery box under the seat (it's not supposed to get hot?) and the rectifier (it gets hot) up front so it gets plenty of air. The rectifier should be in by the end of the week, so if anyone thinks this set up will mess my bike up, please speak up now...

So, is your bike hooked up with the ford truck regulator now?

kevoid
04-06-2010, 6:52 AM
Here is a diagram I that is supposed to be a Ford external regulator and alternator diagram.
I found it while trying to find info on the GM regulators....

slimvulcanrider
04-06-2010, 8:26 AM
I ust got the rectifier in last night, and I orded a voltage regulator for a GM self energizing alternator. I am trying to find out what the two wire hook up spots go... I am asuming that the voltage regulator grounds out through the alternator housing.

kevoid
04-06-2010, 10:13 AM
I ust got the rectifier in last night, and I orded a voltage regulator for a GM self energizing alternator. I am trying to find out what the two wire hook up spots go... I am asuming that the voltage regulator grounds out through the alternator housing.

Which regulator did you get and where?
I'd like to take a look at it also...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I found this self exciting regulator on ebay and it describes what the pins are for:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-WIRE-SELF-EXCITED-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-DELCO-ALTERNATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c53c27b91QQ itemZ190383815569QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fParts Q5fAccessories

Here is the description of the connection usage:
"The regulator has 2 spade terminals, that do not need to be used, they are only there for testing purposes or in case you want to hook it up as a 3 wire alternator, for whatever reason. To hook it up as a 1 wire alternator, you just ignore the 2 spades & hook a positive wire to your positive post on the back."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I also found the following info at: http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
This info is talking about a 3 wire gm, but also states info on the single wire (with self exciter)...
" * The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
o This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning light.
+ For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays off. If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and the warning lamp will light. Usually.
o This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped 10SI alternators.

* The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
o This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation. (3-wire 10SI)
o It is connected to the battery positive.
+ For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector pigtail directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
o The terminal is present on 1 wire regulators. Used only for those that require the stock connector to fit snugly. "
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is another site: http://www.alternatorparts.com/what_is_a_self_exciting_alternator.htm

"One-wire Alternator:
Is another name for the Self-Exciting Alternator mentioned above. You only need to connect the battery wire (one-wire).
The alternator turns on the voltage regulator when the engine starts turning the alternator.

Two-wire Alternator:
Most standard and all self-exciting regulator alternators will work using the two wire setup.
Two wire means that you use the main battery wire to the back of the alternator and also ignition wire to the
#1 terminal to activate the alternator. With this setup the alternator starts charging as soon as the engine is running

Three-wire Alternator:
This setup uses a battery wire, ignition/warning light wire and voltage sensing wire, Three wires. Voltage sensing is used when you want
the alternator to read voltage at some other point than the battery. Or the battery wiring is such that the battery is a long distance from the alternator."

slimvulcanrider
04-06-2010, 1:23 PM
That is good info... I got my regulator from Napa, after I pick it up, i will post a link... but it looks similar to the one you posted from eBay.

The Voltage regulator I picked up was a Napa Part Number VR148SB (http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MPEVR148SB_0194286741), $14.43 out the door.

kevoid
04-07-2010, 6:22 AM
That is good info... I got my regulator from Napa, after I pick it up, i will post a link... but it looks similar to the one you posted from eBay.

The Voltage regulator I picked up was a Napa Part Number VR148SB (http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MPEVR148SB_0194286741), $14.43 out the door.

It will be interesting to see if it works. The guy on eBay that is selling the ones above claims neither the 2/3 wire or the self exciter will work because they require fields to work. I am real interested to see if yours works now, as that is what was said about the ford regulator too...

Find out soon...

Drum roll please /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-............................

slimvulcanrider
04-07-2010, 8:27 AM
I still haven't wired it all up yet, and still waiting on a lot of parts from eBay... once I get all my parts done, I will post my resaults. Which pin is used for the S terminal on the GM voltage regulator?

kevoid
04-08-2010, 5:03 PM
Ok - can you say smoked ford regulator.

I tried hooking it up like the diagram. Only exception being I used red on "I".

All went well until I hooked up the "I" connection.
I came to the conclusion that the orange wire was switched and connected through the light system and would go to the "I" connection.

However, I didn't hook the "I" connection to the orange wire for the initial test thinking "I" could be connected to the orange switched hot/pos or the red hot/pos. So, to simplify the test I hooked "I" to red to test, because I would have to splice into the orange wire and wanted to make sure it worked first. The idea being that pos/hot is pos/hot. I believe that even if I hooked "I" to orange instead of red it would have smoked when the key was turn on anyways. 12 volts would have gone through the orange to "I" as soon as the key was turned on, so...

Any thoughts on this?

I have a self exciter single wire gm internal regulator on the way.
See what happens with that.
I will post the results, etc...

GM Results: Well, unless I find out something different this mod simply won't work on a permanent magnet system without finding a regulator specifically designed for a permanent magnet type charging system. I bought an RR from Electrosport for now. But, I still want to figure this out for future use. Any ideas? Any thoughts? TIps? etc??? As before, if I get beyond this I will post my findings -both good and bad...

Here are some pics of the smoked ford truck regulator:

Jhome1
12-10-2015, 8:59 AM
Thank you Kevoid! We have the same setup in trial here. Will let you know if everything works okay.

Many cheers,
Jhome1

Jhome1
12-10-2015, 9:18 AM
Hi,

I was trying to download the PDF file or view it and it doesn't come up. Can I download it from this thread or get it some other way?

Thanks much!