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Motorradfahrer
03-12-2013, 5:16 PM
Does anyone know who makes this bolt-on hard-tail? Where can I purchase one?

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m305/MotorcycleMonkey/ironheadbolton_zps9f78adb3.jpg

ThePete
03-12-2013, 5:52 PM
Don't know who makes that particular model but I did a quick google search and came across this and thought it was kind of interesting.
http://www.hammerinhandcycles.com/hardtail.html

DirtyCracker
03-12-2013, 8:57 PM
Don't know who makes that particular model but I did a quick google search and came across this and thought it was kind of interesting.
http://www.hammerinhandcycles.com/hardtail.html

Those hammer in hand bolt ons are quite possibly the ugly hard tail ever made.just awful.

LivingCanvas
03-12-2013, 9:09 PM
Thats a KR style bolt on tail. Sporty specialties is making repros now
http://www.sportyspecialties.com/new_products.html

CRFyou
03-12-2013, 9:16 PM
This David Bird hard tail looks good and is cheap.

http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p1771/buy/m-c-parts/frames-amp-hardtails/american/david-bird-sportster-1954-1978-bolt-on-hardtail-frame-by-david-bird/



And Pete... Wtf?! That's fucking heinous.

Motorradfahrer
03-12-2013, 9:44 PM
Thats a KR style bolt on tail. Sporty specialties is making repros now
http://www.sportyspecialties.com/new_products.html

That's it. Thank you!

OhioFlameThrower
03-12-2013, 9:59 PM
That's it. Thank you!

I have one of those Sporty Specialty KR-style bolt-on hardtails sitting out in my shop to be installed on my '73 XLCH. It is a very well-made piece of chopper-building equipment.

www.flamethrowercustoms.blogspot.com
www.flamethrowercustoms.com

ThePete
03-12-2013, 10:02 PM
Key word interesting, only ones I have ever seen in person made the bike look way too short. Personally I'd use struts before a bolt on one.

diy570
03-12-2013, 10:06 PM
Those hammer in hand bolt ons are quite possibly the ugly hard tail ever made.just awful.

agreed, those axle plates are way too small :D

puzpounda
03-12-2013, 10:24 PM
agreed, those axle plates are way too small :D

I feel the same way

joshbaker
03-13-2013, 8:32 AM
Im not a fan of bolt on hardtails. I just use struts or weld on. For my bike i did struts since i didnt have any clue if i was going to like riding a hardtail. Found out that yup they ride stiff but i am fine with it. So now looking into doing a weld on setup.

JohnnyRainbow
03-13-2013, 8:49 AM
I LOVE that bike in the first post. I've been waiting for somebody to use one of those hardtails...

bobscogin
03-13-2013, 9:30 AM
I've been waiting for somebody to use one of those hardtails...

Waiting? Those showed up at Harley's racing department in 1952. Where ya' been??;)

Bob

JohnnyRainbow
03-13-2013, 11:09 AM
Waiting? Those showed up at Harley's racing department in 1952. Where ya' been??;)

Bob

Lol Bob, I mean a dude here. Everybody seems to be a slave to the straight backbone weld on hardtail.

bobscogin
03-13-2013, 5:09 PM
Lol Bob, I mean a dude here. Everybody seems to be a slave to the straight backbone weld on hardtail.

I hear ya'! I don't understand the straight backbone thing either. What's really puzzling is why someone would want axle plates as big as a boomerang to solve a non-problem. Worse yet, the straight backbone makes the frame look too much like just another Big Twin rigid. I like the KR lines!

Bob

GaryC58
03-13-2013, 7:50 PM
I did a search,but didn't see this particular scenario mentioned.
Engine in question is purported to be a 1979 Ironhead.
Question that arises is this-is there ever a scenario when multiple numbers are on an engine,and it is somehow kosher?Or is this always a red flag of illegal tampering?
Here's the deal with the numbers-
The top one is Star 7FXXXXXH8 Star. (yes there are numbers instead of X's).
This number has been dashed totally across it's length as if it had been deleted.
Right under this number there is another one,which is Star 3AXXXXXH9 Star.

Best I can tell,the top 7F would have been a 1978 XLCR,and the bottom 3A would have been a 1979 XLH.

Is there any sensible,legal way this could have come to pass?

Thanks for any words of wisdom.

LivingCanvas
03-13-2013, 8:11 PM
That's it. Thank you!

Ben, the more I look at the original pic, it looks like zero stretch, which is more like the original KR. You'll have to check on that with the sporty specialties one. If its zero stretch your golden. Being as that is a Japanese built bike, they probably went one of two ways (if they didnt just buy it that way). As we know, the Japanese are ok with scouring the globe and finding an original. They are also very good at taking readily available things, and extensively modifying them to give the perfect look, while doing it in a way that looks factory

Huero
03-13-2013, 8:23 PM
Put a pic of the numbers up so we can see if they are legit MoCo numbers or aftermarket stamped. I've never heard of 2 sets of numbers on a case above/below each other and I know most states say that if any set of numbers are altered it would prompt a number search for stolen goods.

That's unless you're CRFyou...he'd get CA DMW to issue him two titles, 1 for each set of digits. :killerjob:

LivingCanvas
03-13-2013, 8:25 PM
Ok after a bit of research, the sporty specialties has 4" stretch. But John Penner makes a replica KR tail more like the original with zero

wardan123
03-13-2013, 9:11 PM
I got one for my '75 and really like it.

jollyroger
03-13-2013, 9:15 PM
The 1979 model year was the last that ironheads came with kickstarters, and almost everywhere I read, anything beyond '79 and you're fucked unless you want to do some drilling into the cases.

But then I did a little more digging and found out that some early 1980 models actually have the whole in the case drilled out and plugged for a kickstart setup, but no 1980 ironheads actually came with kickstarts. I understand that these are leftover '79 cases used on '80 bikes.

I looked into my bike and sure enough it has the plug, so I will be putting a kicker on it very soon. I just wonder: how rare is this? Where there a few hundred, thousand, billion of these oddity bikes? Was it actually more common to have a leftover '79 case than it was to have a "true" '80 case?

Anybody care?

jorgun
03-13-2013, 9:44 PM
Far as I know all 80 cases are all drilled for a kicker but plugged. With the 79's the last year for kickers the rear master cylinder is mounted high to clear the kicker which is the reason their rear pipes have the funky jog in them. Factory exhaust were siamese pipes. In 80 the master cylinder was lowered which allows all pipes from 57 to 85 to fit. Factory exhaust became staggered duals. So 81 and up they never drilled the cases. Sorry about getting off track. But as far as I know all 80XL's were drilled and plugged. But I could be wrong.

jollyroger
03-13-2013, 9:49 PM
That's definitely possible.

Why do you think then that most suppliers say that it can't be done for the '80 bikes, instead of saying that it requires more to do it?

Too many pissed off customers maybe? It's been a while, but most often, the answer I see is that the '80's cases have the spot for the hole to be drilled, but not actually drilled.

jorgun
03-13-2013, 9:58 PM
Well I've got an 81 I bought new and wanted a kicker. That's when I was told the 80's were drilled and plugged and they did nothing to 81's. I also think I remember something about a bushing that has to be pressed in. Not sure memories a little faulty any more. Too many years of going ONWARD THOUGH THE FOG!! Now it's all starting to be a fog!!

JohnnyRainbow
03-13-2013, 10:20 PM
Ben, the more I look at the original pic, it looks like zero stretch, which is more like the original KR. You'll have to check on that with the sporty specialties one. If its zero stretch your golden. Being as that is a Japanese built bike, they probably went one of two ways (if they didnt just buy it that way). As we know, the Japanese are ok with scouring the globe and finding an original. They are also very good at taking readily available things, and extensively modifying them to give the perfect look, while doing it in a way that looks factory

Little Wing was built in Japan. Dude has a blog, I read it all the way to the beginning a while back, which was no small task as there were tons of entries and even more pictures of noodles and stuff. That bike gets ridden and parked outside.

I'll see if I can find his blog again.

GaryC58
03-14-2013, 8:39 AM
Pic

Stadger
03-14-2013, 8:51 AM
The cafe racer did not sell well back then. My guess is that the factory took that engine that was destined to be a cafe and just rebadged it for use in a better selling model. The numbers look fine to me. I wouldn't sweat it. It IS quite a conversation piece though!

Stlmikie
03-14-2013, 8:53 AM
Factory did it. Your in good shape.

Motorradfahrer
03-14-2013, 10:47 AM
Ok after a bit of research, the sporty specialties has 4" stretch. But John Penner makes a replica KR tail more like the original with zero
Thank you for the info. I'll probably contact John Penner regarding his replica since I don't want to add length to my bike.



I got one for my '75 and really like it.
You have the Sporty Specialties version or the John Penner version? The picture you posted is small; it's hard to get a good look at your bike.


Little Wing was built in Japan. Dude has a blog, I read it all the way to the beginning a while back, which was no small task as there were tons of entries and even more pictures of noodles and stuff. That bike gets ridden and parked outside.

I'll see if I can find his blog again.
Please post a link to his blog. I'd love to look at it before I make any changes to my bike. Thank you.

concrete72
03-14-2013, 10:53 AM
I adjusted my idle down a bit, and it seemed to be good. More relaxed at stops etc, but I noticed the engine seemed to vibrate a lot worse. It felt like the front end was just heavy vibes on foot pegs, and bars at certain rpm points. I don't have a tach. Prior to adjusting, I would have to roll the throttle up to lower the idle at stops, but the engine was smooth(er).

CRFyou
03-14-2013, 11:06 AM
Another area that is creating a ton of threads...

Have a question about a Sportster part? Don't feel like using Google?

Then, post in here. I'll google stuff for you so the forums stay cleaner.

Not every question about where to get an air filter or bars needs a dedicated thread.

Get it?

Plus dudes will come in here and answer questions for you.

How super cool to the max!

Acosi151
03-14-2013, 11:15 AM
Dude....

http://www.evitamins.com/images/products/250/20120315_112.jpg

:p

CRFyou
03-14-2013, 11:24 AM
Dude....

http://www.evitamins.com/images/products/250/20120315_112.jpg

:p

Sorry brah.

I'm a motivated recruit and I'm gonna get all these boots to fall into formation so they're not marching about the parade deck like nasty things.

mindthreat44
03-14-2013, 11:48 AM
I like the idea. Kind of a sportsterpedia.

JohnnyRainbow
03-14-2013, 11:49 AM
Why are sportster motorbikes so much fun?

Pendulum
03-14-2013, 11:49 AM
Ok... how can I get my 883 to do wheelies? I'm talkin' mile-long, tire-smoking, panty-dropping wheelies. Anything less and you're a sissy.

Nosebleed
03-14-2013, 11:56 AM
If an Amish man were to ride a Sporty, would it be called a Mennonightster?

Evidence
03-14-2013, 11:56 AM
This site has gone from "Chop Cult" to "Jump on the Sportster Hater Bandwagon Cult"

As if the other sections are any better..."hay broz eyem havin problums wit mah DOHC 750 chopper long bike yo"







PS, CRFyou for Prez!

CRFyou
03-14-2013, 11:57 AM
Ok... how can I get my 883 to do wheelies? I'm talkin' mile-long, tire-smoking, panty-dropping wheelies. Anything less and you're a sissy.

You need to put your weight as far back as you can. Pull the clutch lever in, and stomp nike into first like it owes you money.

Rack up the throttle until you bounce off the rev limiter for a few seconds and let go of the clutch like it has AIDS (it does). Ride that wheelie to the next jamboree.

CRFyou
03-14-2013, 12:01 PM
This site has gone from "Chop Cult" to "Jump on the Sportster Hater Bandwagon Cult"

As if the other sections are any better..."hay broz eyem havin problums wit mah DOHC 750 chopper long bike yo"

PS, CRFyou for Prez!

I'm not moderating the Japanese section.

I don't hate sportsters at all.

The purpose of this forum is for inspiration and showing builds and builders. Beginner sportster dudes can still get down here, just not to the point of overwhelming the American section.

If there's a problem, yo, I'll solve it.

Evidence
03-14-2013, 12:04 PM
I'm not moderating the Japanese section.

I don't hate sportsters at all.

The purpose of this forum is for inspiration and showing builds and builders. Beginner sportster dudes can still get down here, just not to the point of overwhelming the American section.

If there's a problem, yo, I'll solve it.

Im just giving you shit. I think its a good idea, since you can google most of these threads verbatim and the exact same thing pops up on xlforum or hdforums lol.

Huero
03-14-2013, 12:05 PM
Pic

That is straight up legit and that is def a conversation piece, wouldn't change a thing.

Nosebleed
03-14-2013, 12:06 PM
This site has gone from "Chop Cult" to "Jump on the Sportster Hater Bandwagon Cult"

As if the other sections are any better...

PSA: Whining is a serious problem that plagues thousands of Americans, every day. Many turn a blind eye to their problem and deny it, but change starts with the man in the mirror.

Oh, and CRF, while your response concerning a practical technique for achieving the desirable "12 o'clock wheelie" was informative, perhaps the OP would also like to hear more about such practical topics as gearing and engine displacement?

Workingmans
03-14-2013, 12:14 PM
i am working on a 76 ironhead...
wondering about rear brake linkage... i have seen many interesting designs from welded drive chain to chain links to wrought iron... how about some photos of your rear break linkage and arm.... the coolest one will win a big bag of " absolutely nothing" as long as you pay for the postage to recieve your prize.. im estimating it will be somewhere around "nothing"
lets see them....
im currently pondering this .. give me some ideas...
please....
Ryan

brooklynbomber
03-14-2013, 12:21 PM
If an Amish man were to ride a Sporty, would it be called a Mennonightster?

http://www.epicgifs.net/images/show/R40P8QWH

Acosi151
03-14-2013, 12:39 PM
A 900cc IH leaves Las Vegas at 1:00 pm, averaging 40 mph.
A 1200S headed in the opposite direction leaves Las Vegas at 4:00 pm, averaging 80 mph.
To the nearest hour, how long after the IH breaks down will Biltwell release their new full face retro helmet, and what colour looks best for the rider of the 1200S assuming he's got a raw steel axed alien tank installed?

milunchbox
03-14-2013, 12:44 PM
A 900cc IH leaves Las Vegas at 1:00 pm, averaging 40 mph.
A 1200S headed in the opposite direction leaves Las Vegas at 4:00 pm, averaging 80 mph.
To the nearest hour, how long after the IH breaks down will Biltwell release their new full face retro helmet, and what colour looks best for the rider of the 1200S assuming he's got a raw steel axed alien tank installed?

3 hours 45 minutes after guess reltive humidity. Also green would be the best color.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

purerockfury
03-14-2013, 12:54 PM
dear sweet baby jesus

thank you,

that is all...

Nosebleed
03-14-2013, 1:24 PM
A 900cc IH leaves Las Vegas at 1:00 pm, averaging 40 mph.
A 1200S headed in the opposite direction leaves Las Vegas at 4:00 pm, averaging 80 mph.
To the nearest hour, how long after the IH breaks down will Biltwell release their new full face retro helmet, and what colour looks best for the rider of the 1200S assuming he's got a raw steel axed alien tank installed?

1. A better question would be "how long until the IH breaks down?" This would be largely dependent, I think on the ambient temperature outside (gets damned hot in Vegas) as well as the color of the rider's flannel shirt. Difficult to answer, however we must also take into account that the rider is only going 40mph, which seems to be one of only 2 speeds that most IH's have...40mph, and broke down.
2. There is only one answer to all questions regarding Biltwell product releases: 3-6 months. Previously it was, "in the spring", however they are rolling out products at a much greater rate now that Billdozer doesn't spend all of his time hating us.
3. The beauty of the Biltwell line of helmets is that they are offered in a variety of colors and finishes, nearly all of which would look stunning on any 1200S rider armed with a raw axed alien tank.

Disclaimer: I do not ride an IH, do not work for Bitlwell, do not own a 1200S, have never been axed, and am not an alien. I do however love flannel shirts. Never got over them from the 90's.

Huero
03-14-2013, 1:26 PM
Let's see if CRF will Junk Pile his own thread...wait a minute, isn't that something Ron Jeremy can do? What really did he expect, it's a girl's bike thread, right?!!

cb550Matt
03-14-2013, 1:26 PM
A 900cc IH leaves Las Vegas at 1:00 pm, averaging 40 mph.
A 1200S headed in the opposite direction leaves Las Vegas at 4:00 pm, averaging 80 mph.
To the nearest hour, how long after the IH breaks down will Biltwell release their new full face retro helmet, and what colour looks best for the rider of the 1200S assuming he's got a raw steel axed alien tank installed?

Shut your dirty ironhead hatin mouth!

Huero
03-14-2013, 1:31 PM
Shut your dirty ironhead hatin mouth!

Hahahahahahahah, was "IronheadMatt" taken?

CRFyou
03-14-2013, 1:43 PM
Let's see if CRF will Junk Pile his own thread...wait a minute, isn't that something Ron Jeremy can do? What really did he expect, it's a girl's bike thread, right?!!

This is a real thread and it's going to stay.

Even if I have to delete every sassy comment you dick whistles come up with.

Shacknasty
03-14-2013, 3:36 PM
Yup! Factory stamps. I sure hope that DMV doesn't fuck ya around too much. Take it to a HD dealer and get a piece of paper that says it is factory stamped to show the DMV. Hell, carry it with ya to show any doubting cops. Ya don't wanna get yer bike impounded.

JohnnyRainbow
03-14-2013, 8:47 PM
These are all the entries under "Ironsports"...the other entries are mostly noodles and stuff, lol.

http://alex8000zombie.blogspot.com/search/label/Ironsports

diy570
03-14-2013, 9:11 PM
These are all the entries under "Ironsports"...the other entries are mostly noodles and stuff, lol.

http://alex8000zombie.blogspot.com/search/label/Ironsports

that sporty is a killer bike :cheersmate:

Upnrunning
03-14-2013, 11:04 PM
Hey guys, I have a decent running IH that I tore down to replace some seals. The clutch side has had some old weld repairs and I have to split cases or at least pull motor to repair. Can you just replace the primary drive side case or are the IH cases a machined together matched set? I did a quick search and came up with nothing. I'm a newbie so forgive me if this post is redundant. Thanks!

1legdave93
03-14-2013, 11:39 PM
From what I have seen throughout the years there is a bit of interchangeability with the ironhead cases. I believe the biggest difference is between the different displacements (900 vs 1000cc) and possibly oil pump designs. I am by no means an expert on this,but I'm sure that there is someone on here that has a bit more input on it than I do.

1legdave93
03-14-2013, 11:39 PM
what year is your motor?

Upnrunning
03-14-2013, 11:53 PM
It's a 75 thanks fellas

dirtbag
03-15-2013, 12:01 AM
Yes case halfes are matched as is the trap door,there just finished machined to match,people mix and match them and remachine if neccessary.

XbrooklynX
03-15-2013, 12:14 AM
That is cool for showing people, but would scare me to ride around on if a cop saw it. Theyre as dumb as rocks and are looking for reasons to impound bikes.

I was riding a buddys 63 triumph. got pulled over and the cop wanted to impound the bike because he said the vin looked scratched off... "its from 1963 sir, and covered in about 30 different paint jobs."

SportsterBob
03-15-2013, 3:13 AM
my '80 ironhead is still drilled and plugged. the vin says that is was build in the first half of 1980.

backwithabang
03-15-2013, 6:22 AM
Same here my 80 has the whole but plugged. Currently wishing it had a kicker because my starter is giving me all sorts of shit.

brooklynbomber
03-15-2013, 6:28 AM
I think this is a good thread but if its going to remain effective, it needs t be a sticky and we all should take the pointless posts out of it, so if people do come to it , they will know its a good thread to use for this.

Like that 80XL with 79 cases thread could've easily been asked in here and not have its own thread.

Cree
03-15-2013, 9:43 AM
Interesting editorial idea in theory, but segregating noobs away from the mainstream where they will never get benefit from the wisdom and experience of other builders who may happen across the question in the main forum and be decent enough to reply helpfully (instead of dissing) may not achieve the best result (in any case, scrolling past dumb repetitive questions is hardly a hassle). We were all noobs once, needing a sense of belonging and, as the streetrod community has realized, we should welcome beginners and pass on "ancient" knowledge to perpetuate the hobby--regardless of what bike you can afford. It's expensive and challenging to build, and if frequent mistakes can be prevented that helps the hobby grow and makes more well-built scooters for all to enjoy. Also, as a group noobs may be the ones buying the most bolt-on parts from Chop Cult advertisers, and perhaps should merit red-carpet treatment.

Motorradfahrer
03-15-2013, 11:50 AM
These are all the entries under "Ironsports"...the other entries are mostly noodles and stuff, lol.

http://alex8000zombie.blogspot.com/search/label/Ironsports

Thank you for the link, JohnnyRainbow.

CRFyou
03-15-2013, 12:07 PM
Interesting editorial idea in theory, but segregating noobs away from the mainstream where they will never get benefit from the wisdom and experience of other builders who may happen across the question in the main forum and be decent enough to reply helpfully (instead of dissing) may not achieve the best result (in any case, scrolling past dumb repetitive questions is hardly a hassle). We were all noobs once, needing a sense of belonging and, as the streetrod community has realized, we should welcome beginners and pass on "ancient" knowledge to perpetuate the hobby--regardless of what bike you can afford. It's expensive and challenging to build, and if frequent mistakes can be prevented that helps the hobby grow and makes more well-built scooters for all to enjoy. Also, as a group noobs may be the ones buying the most bolt-on parts from Chop Cult advertisers, and perhaps should merit red-carpet treatment.

We're not segregating anyone. People with knowledge will enter the "noob" threads and answer questions. Conversely, noobs will watch and follow build threads that contain many elements beyond their current skill level.


Again. I'll repeat our intentions...

We don't hate sportsters. However, those threads are overwhelming and repetitive. If it was the same trend, but with Dynas or Softails, we would be doing the same exact thing to focus those exact bikes into a more organized structure that doesn't inundate the board with 60-70% of all threads.

No one is withholding info from noobs. Go in my panhead thread...Sportster owners have full access to the pics I have uploaded.

And to your last point about them supporting the advertisers, ergo deserving the red carpet... Don't make me laff... You're the one worried about noobs gaining more knowledge. You learn by doing and researching.

You can go ahead and hold their hands and make sure their caviar comes from the Black Sea, and their urine comes out 95% Champagne. You're not doing them any favors though.

junkyardxl
03-15-2013, 12:17 PM
I own nothing but sportsters and i think its a great idea. It does become redundant. Agree on the sticky too

Jetblack
03-15-2013, 12:38 PM
Sportsters have been around a long ass time, and about the cheapest base bike Harley ever built if you don't include the Italian job's, and as a used bike they fall well into the budget of guys wanting to chop a Harley...so it's only natural with all of those things combined; that there are going to be an ass load of threads on them.

nunez8853
03-15-2013, 1:06 PM
This is a real thread and it's going to stay.

Even if I have to delete every sassy comment you dick whistles come up with.


hey fuck you guy, if you delete my comment ill tell lisa on you... JERK:(

your abusing your power...



in all seriousness, cool thread being a sporty owner im down for this. because trying to find out what seat looks nice on your brand new 2000 1200cc to go with you new bars from(insert designer brand) isnt always a cool thread... but then again what to i know???


ill also add when i was first starting out and i would ask a "lame/noob" question i would get all kinds of shit form the guys on hdforums being rude and shit thinking they were gods gift to motorcycles and knows everything under the sun, so if i can clean somthing up for a guy that is at the level i was when i fist started out id be more than happy to do so.

CRFyou
03-15-2013, 1:40 PM
hey fuck you guy, if you delete my comment ill tell lisa on you... JERK:(

your abusing your power...



I get that you're probably joking. But this isn't the junk pile. People don't have the same latitude to derail threads here.

brooklynbomber
03-15-2013, 3:11 PM
Sportsters have been around a long ass time, and about the cheapest base bike Harley ever built if you don't include the Italian job's, and as a used bike they fall well into the budget of guys wanting to chop a Harley...so it's only natural with all of those things combined; that there are going to be an ass load of threads on them.

Yes but we dont need 5 threads of "what should I do with my bike" or threads for that matter that need a single answer. No one minds a sweet sportster build thread, sporties are awesome, I've owned 2 of them. But as of recently there have been many threads that this one could help answer questions.

jollyroger
03-15-2013, 10:43 PM
So I'm the asshat that started a thread to ask about the rarity of the leftover '79 cases in the '80 bikes. Seeing as that I don't wander here in the forum too often, I missed that I should have asked here. Fuck me, right?

So my question is how rare are the 80 bikes with 79 cases. I have one. I've seen a few people talk about theirs having them, but I wonder if there's a number on these oddities.

Any ideas?

bitpusher
03-16-2013, 1:06 AM
lordy lordy i sho do love me some sporties but an 'ultimate' never ending thread full of snark and mixed up asks and answers is not the best idea i have heard lately.

have fun fellas.

audioslave
03-16-2013, 8:39 AM
Anyone know the oem part number for the spring in the top of this (borrowed) picture? I live in europe so I'll probably have to order it..

http://mellqvist.org/foto/sportster/shiftershaft.jpg

Nevermind the red arrow..

Acosi151
03-16-2013, 2:41 PM
Anyone know the oem part number for the spring in the top of this (borrowed) picture? I live in europe so I'll probably have to order it..
.

What is that? the shifter return spring? no year and a pic that close up it's hard to tell.

But don't sweat-it.. get harley parts fiche diagrams here and you're golden: http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/OEMpartfinder.htm

Gnarly
03-16-2013, 4:50 PM
Quick serious question. Is the float height on a keihn butterfly carb measured from the base of the carb to the closest part of the float or the furthest part?

Gnarly
03-16-2013, 8:14 PM
SOLVED: if you are setting the float height on a ironhead with a keihn butterfly carb you set the flat to 16-17 mm. That is measured from the base of the carb where the bowl would mount to the furthest part of the bowl (bottom of the float if the carb was installed.

dazed84
03-17-2013, 4:39 PM
Ok,I,ll play ,,Question is,, does any one know correct jet sizes in a DELLORTO PMH38NS carburetor.the eng in question is stock 1000cc sporty,cams stock,drag pipes with baffels,low resriction air cleaner.the main jet is 145,smaller jet is a 50. needle set in center slot.seems to run well as is, just trying to locate info on this carb jets,etc. running on new carb to day.,pics after 4 months of work , bike in question..non chopped ,1972 xlh , any ways, if you got the knowledge,, throw some this way ,,preciate it

AusAndrew
03-18-2013, 2:50 AM
This thread's going to be perfect for me. Got plenty of stupid questions I can't find answers too, not from lack of trying though.

Recently bought my first bike, an '81 ironhead and it's a massive learning curve for me.

My first thing is foot pegs. I know this gets covered a lot but all of my searching still leaves me at a dead end. I just want plain black rubber ones like standard evo ones but that stupid female mount leaves me very few options. Not really keen on the knurled ones or anything like that, does anyone have a part number for standard little rubber ones? My other option is I found if I undo an allen headed bolt in my existing pegs I can take all the massive rubber rings and chunky shit off and I'm left with the female end and the long allen head bolt. Can you buy plain metal bodies/sleeves (like I said, first bike, retarded, no idea on correct terminology) for this? I've noticed jmc sell these kits but can't find anything for them.

If I still make no sense, I can take pictures. They'll make more sense than I do.

DocZ8404
03-18-2013, 10:13 AM
I got a nightster with a peanut tank, 12in apes, burley slammer kit, Frisco tank riser, and fed controls. I can decide why seat to get. I wonder how a king/queen would look.. Or maybe a springer or flush? Opinions?

Thanks in Advance.

Also any have experience with making seats for these bikes? The ecu mess under the seat sucks.

Incrediblah
03-18-2013, 10:20 AM
There's a thread pinned to the top of this forum for indecisive nightster enthusiasts.

DocZ8404
03-18-2013, 10:26 AM
Thanks. But I'm asking for help from active members. I'm not trying to be "another nightster" I have built bikes As well as bought brand new. I just couldn't pass up the deal I got the bike for.

More or less I'm trying to see if anyone has had experience making seats and some ideas. That's all. If your going to bash me or whatever, just stay under your bridge.

CRFyou
03-18-2013, 10:33 AM
You want seat advice, but don't show a pic of your sportster?

This thread is getting moved.

PittZero
03-18-2013, 12:10 PM
try searching first one on "making a king and queen seat"
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28516&highlight=making+king+queen+seat
as for the look skim the sporty yours only thread lots of picks many diff seats
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120

vnygra
03-18-2013, 12:38 PM
Quite a few threads about making seats. Search. Did one in my build thread, theres one called make a seat like a pro to name a few.

ddellostritto
03-18-2013, 12:40 PM
Attached is a diagram that I'm looking to have some help with wiring my 1985 Sportster. It has a dual fire coil with what appears to be a Dyna ignition (blue & white wires). When I originally bought the bike last year I noticed the group of three wires (red/black/green) from the ignition module were tucked away not connected to anything.
I'm running this thing bare bones with no relay as well so if anyone wants to play "connect the wires to the proper breaker" with the diagram to help me, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c106/DeathMachine_/675a663d-b554-4ca1-92e5-0b50f97c98ce_zps947662b3.jpg

kevin303
03-18-2013, 2:15 PM
I've got an 02' sporty that I am looking at hard tailing and plan on doing the work myself. I've been looking at the led-sleds because I like the idea of using the engine as a jig etc.. Has any one used their kits and done the work themselves? I am down for any suggestions if anyone else has any recommendations.

Next question being : chain drive vs. belt?

I am 6,2" and was going to do a 2" stretch but I've heard of nightmare stories with finding the right size belt, does any one have experience with that or should I just convert to chain?

helltaco
03-18-2013, 2:19 PM
I have a Led Sled hardtail frame with a 99 engine with 2" rear stretch, and I used a 04+ belt. The later belts are longer.

brooklynbomber
03-18-2013, 3:55 PM
First, use the search tool, second, there is a thread at the top for these questions, lots of sportster related stuff.

Not to be an ass, there just is a ton of info on this already.

BrokenSprocketGarage
03-18-2013, 3:57 PM
Do you have a stock wiring diagram? A lot of your answers can be found there.
Here is what I would do off the top of my head:
B+ to main breaker copper post.
Regulator charge wire to main breaker silver post.

Evidence
03-18-2013, 4:40 PM
Go to Lowbrow and order a David Bird tail. You don't need any jigs (at least I didn't) and they're very user friendly if you're installing it yourself....I've never heard of anyone with a DB tail that was not completely satisfied.

Gnarly
03-18-2013, 5:04 PM
Everyone speaks about getting a factory manual. A what is the best place to obtain these? The parts catalog also. I have an 81 IH.

dazed84
03-18-2013, 6:00 PM
I got a nightster with a peanut tank, 12in apes, burley slammer kit, Frisco tank riser, and fed controls. I can decide why seat to get. I wonder how a king/queen would look.. Or maybe a springer or flush? Opinions?

Thanks in Advance.

Also any have experience with making seats for these bikes? The ecu mess under the seat sucks.

make your own I did>corbin fiberglass pan, dense foam, leather cover, little love and wala.

dazed84
03-18-2013, 6:05 PM
Ok,I,ll play ,,Question is,, does any one know correct jet sizes in a DELLORTO PMH38NS carburetor.the eng in question is stock 1000cc sporty,cams stock,drag pipes with baffels,low resriction air cleaner.the main jet is 145,smaller jet is a 50. needle set in center slot.seems to run well as is, just trying to locate info on this carb jets,etc. running on new carb to day.,pics after 4 months of work , bike in question..non chopped ,1972 xlh , any ways, if you got the knowledge,, throw some this way ,,preciate it

ok dellorto questions answered at" BEVEL Heaven"(ducati supplier<)enclosed is blow up of said carb if any body else does a Italian carbed harley.

007
03-18-2013, 7:04 PM
I've put a Led Sled tail on, it goes on just like 99% of the others. It is a nice quality hardtail in my opinion.

I like a chain drive.

Incrediblah
03-18-2013, 9:19 PM
Thanks. But I'm asking for help from active members. I'm not trying to be "another nightster" I have built bikes As well as bought brand new. I just couldn't pass up the deal I got the bike for.

More or less I'm trying to see if anyone has had experience making seats and some ideas. That's all. If your going to bash me or whatever, just stay under your bridge.

Nobody is bashing you. There's just so many repeats upon repeats of these same questions that have been discussed to no end on here already. There's a ton of seats, from bolt on to fully hand crafted on here. Just search! Springers too.

People get uppity about this stuff because this site is supposed to be about chopping motorcycles. It's not about, "what do you 10000 members with varying opinions think my bike should look like"?

53rigid
03-19-2013, 6:31 AM
I will post up a tidbit i I found on my 79 ironhead. I took the cams out bacuase I wanted to clean the cam chest out and when I put them back in, I lined up the marks and everything was good right? Nope. There is a mark on the end of the shaft that the pinion gear attaches to that has to be lined up with the mark on the pinion gear and then all lined up with the marks on the cams. If you do not line all of these up, you will never be able to static time the bike because the pistons and the cams will never be in the right place at the right time. I believe this mark is on 79 and newer bikes.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t212/d-sb-1/PinionShaftTimeMark_zps9ba2fa4f.jpg

wingedick
03-19-2013, 7:09 AM
I've got an 02' sporty that I am looking at hard tailing and plan on doing the work myself. I've been looking at the led-sleds because I like the idea of using the engine as a jig etc.. Has any one used their kits and done the work themselves? I am down for any suggestions if anyone else has any recommendations.

Next question being : chain drive vs. belt?

I am 6,2" and was going to do a 2" stretch but I've heard of nightmare stories with finding the right size belt, does any one have experience with that or should I just convert to chain?

im running Twisted Choppers tail section on my.. I cant say enough bout those guys at Twisted..
shit was spot on..:cheersmate:
im also runnin chain

BarnstormCycles
03-19-2013, 7:21 AM
We have been doing a lot of sportster hardtail conversions as of late.

We are familiar with all the major options, and when we use a pre-fabbed section, have used mostly led sled's, and now only the new 47 Industries hardtail. We have had to make some "tweaks" to the ledsleds in the past in order to get the axle plates to be 100% aligned with each other....

Our personal favorite would be the new 47 industries hardtail, Mike makes a GREAT looking, and very robust hardtail section. Its arguably the best one on the market right now.

Look here to see some photos, and call mike and talk with him. He would be happy to answer any questions you have. Tell him Barnstorm sent ya.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27869\

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27932&highlight=shortster


http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6516&highlight=industries

good luck and have fun chopping!

Hahn
03-19-2013, 9:45 AM
So i bought my first bike (Harley 48) last month and im now getting into making it my own. Just ordered som V&H shortshots and the programmer, but have yet to make up my mind on an air cleaner. Then only one that really has my attention is the SE Heavy breather but its $300. My question is, can you make your own similar air cleaner, ie. 90 degree bend of pipe and filter, or is there more complicated stuff involved (electronic/cpu, etc). Might be a stupid question but this is my first bike so im learning as i go. Also, if anyone has recommendations for other air cleaners, im open to opinions. Thanks in advance fellas.

paulw
03-19-2013, 9:46 AM
mooneyes aircleaner is pretty popular and cheap

ruckus2115
03-19-2013, 9:49 AM
welcome to the forum...this thread might get moved....upload a pic too....

CRFyou
03-19-2013, 9:49 AM
mooneyes aircleaner is pretty popular and cheap

This is a job for THE ULTIMATE SPORTSTER QUESTION thread.

ACXL1K
03-19-2013, 9:56 AM
ok 2 questions:
1: how many revolutions on the generator per revolution of the crank (75 iron head)
2: How many inches of travel would be normal for the front forks of 75 Sportster, in normal conditions, and say if I hooped a curb or set down from a wheelie. Just wondering because I am considering a modification but want to keep a stable and comfortable ride.

Thanks In Advance ACXL1K Shane

PittZero
03-19-2013, 10:06 AM
So i bought my first bike (Harley 48) last month and im now getting into making it my own. Just ordered som V&H shortshots and the programmer, but have yet to make up my mind on an air cleaner. Then only one that really has my attention is the SE Heavy breather but its $300. My question is, can you make your own similar air cleaner, ie. 90 degree bend of pipe and filter, or is there more complicated stuff involved (electronic/cpu, etc). Might be a stupid question but this is my first bike so im learning as i go. Also, if anyone has recommendations for other air cleaners, im open to opinions. Thanks in advance fellas.

Above you or to the right there is a 90% chance of an ad for a vendor here that has many options
Also if you look at something clean and classy it will always be just that. If you get something big and bulky it to will always be that.. You said it your first bike trust me as I can vouch for just about everyone here your taste will change a lot and often. So before you start spending a lot on things take a long look at whats out there. Even go to a Harley shop and im sure you can find a bike with a HB on it and sit on it try it out see if you will actually like it on a bike not just in a pic.

concrete72
03-19-2013, 3:27 PM
Above you or to the right there is a 90% chance of an ad for a vendor here that has many options
Also if you look at something clean and classy it will always be just that. If you get something big and bulky it to will always be that.. You said it your first bike trust me as I can vouch for just about everyone here your taste will change a lot and often. So before you start spending a lot on things take a long look at whats out there. Even go to a Harley shop and im sure you can find a bike with a HB on it and sit on it try it out see if you will actually like it on a bike not just in a pic.

so is there much carb tuning to do or any if you remove the can of ham and add a small air filter ? how are so many of those japan chops rolling with no air filter?

Stlmikie
03-19-2013, 5:06 PM
You'll likely have to change it. But that being said you really won't know till you change it. You can run with no filter or a v-stack but you'll need to tune accordingly.



so is there much carb tuning to do or any if you remove the can of ham and add a small air filter ? how are so many of those japan chops rolling with no air filter?

willbilly
03-20-2013, 2:09 PM
Hey chop cult im looking for new sportster shocks,what is your opinion on best shocks out there for the money,i got 2002 1200 would like to go a little shorter than stock if i dont have to sacrafice the ride,i have 13.25 stock shocks.Also i ride alot rode about 15,000 miles last year thats alot for ohio,so whats best shocks out there?are the 12000s shocks the shit?progressive?

Evidence
03-20-2013, 2:15 PM
I would look into Burlys. We just put some of those on a buddy of mines bike and they are beefy...if I were ever to build a softy, they would be my first choice.

HernandezChop
03-20-2013, 2:32 PM
Burly Slammers!

PunX
03-20-2013, 3:10 PM
Everyone speaks about getting a factory manual. A what is the best place to obtain these? The parts catalog also. I have an 81 IH.
I have an '81 as well. I got both books off e-bay. They pop up on craigslist every so often too.

Gnarly
03-20-2013, 5:00 PM
I have an '81 as well. I got both books off e-bay. They pop up on craigslist every so often too.

Thanks.

drseiss
03-20-2013, 5:36 PM
Hey chop cult im looking for new sportster shocks,what is your opinion on best shocks out there for the money,i got 2002 1200 would like to go a little shorter than stock if i dont have to sacrafice the ride,i have 13.25 stock shocks.Also i ride alot rode about 15,000 miles last year thats alot for ohio,so whats best shocks out there?are the 12000s shocks the shit?progressive?

I'm really happy with the Hagons I picked up about 1000 miles ago. i replaced my 1200s stock shocks with some slightly shorter Hagons and even though the new ones arent as adjustable the ride quality is great. Call their distributor in San Diego and they'll set you up with a pair sprung for your weight and riding style.

MotorLeaguer
03-20-2013, 9:28 PM
I building My first chop, 03 883, heres a link to the build, http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28538

I removed my cam cover to trim it up, took the cams out..... now i need to put the cams back in.....wtf did i get myself into. I dont wanna blow my engine up, whats my best plan of attack?!

anyone done this? Any help would be appreciated!
thanks!

rathead
03-21-2013, 9:55 AM
Question regarding handlebar controls. Considering how bad I was chewed out yesterday ill assume its going to happen again. But I'm looking for some decent plain looking controls for my 01 sporty. Just need a brake and clutch. I've looked on eBay and they're either Chinese garbage or 400 dollars. Any one have any suggestions in the 100-200 dollar range?

Hahn
03-21-2013, 2:11 PM
So i bought my first bike (Harley 48) last month and im now getting into making it my own. Just ordered som V&H shortshots and the programmer, but have yet to make up my mind on an air cleaner. Then only one that really has my attention is the SE Heavy breather but its $300. My question is, can you make your own similar air cleaner, ie. 90 degree bend of pipe and filter, or is there more complicated stuff involved (electronic/cpu, etc). Might be a stupid question but this is my first bike so im learning as i go. Also, if anyone has recommendations for other air cleaners, im open to opinions. Thanks in advance fellas.

Ok fellas, so i think i found what im looking for. Its an AC similar to the SE Heavy Breather, but made by a company called Figure Machine, and is $75 cheaper than the SE, not to mention it also comes in flat black. Anyone have any experience with this company or know if theyre a vendor on here as well? Thanks.

Hahn
03-21-2013, 2:12 PM
http://www.figuremachine.com/products/flow/xlflow-c/xlflowc.php

Mentioned company

dazed84
03-22-2013, 7:09 AM
old iron question ,well actualy a poll.How many of you own pre1977 sporty,s that do the oil leak down ,the gremlin that removes oil outta the tank and sticks it in your primary,,2outta 2 so far,,,

mzavala2424
03-22-2013, 12:06 PM
I've been riding without a horn for a while but I want to put a new one back on. I have a horn I got from Dime City Cycles but its different from the original horn on sportster. The stock horn had one prong where the yellow horn wire clipped on to and a screw in the back that had a grounding wire run from it. The new one has 2 prongs and a crew similar to the grounding screw on the old horn. I figured that I would just splice 2 wires into the yellow so I could get power to both the prongs. However when I wired it up and grounded it from the screw nothing happened. Is one of the prongs used for grounding or am I missing something else more obvious. Heres photos of the horn and the wiring I was planning to use

Evidence
03-22-2013, 12:10 PM
Maybe im confused on your question, but are you looping it through some kind of button?

HernandezChop
03-22-2013, 12:14 PM
I could be wrong but my 06 had two wires at the control - yellow/black & orange/white. What year is your sporty?

Here is a link to an 01 diagram, looks like the control is wired the same:
http://binatani.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/2001-Sportster-Wiring-Diagram-with-Badlands-illuminator-ProIII.jpg

HernandezChop
03-22-2013, 12:40 PM
Is this a two note horn? If it is both blades should have a hot wire. If not one blade should be hot and the other should be negative/ground.

HernandezChop
03-22-2013, 12:41 PM
You should test the horn with a 12 volt battery.

mzavala2424
03-22-2013, 2:29 PM
The bike is a '89. I dont think the horn is a 2-note horn it didnt say it was when I bought it. Evidence I'm still using the stock controls so it is wired to the stock horn button. I will try wiring one of the blades as a ground. Damn I'm an idiot I shouldve just tested this with a battery to begin with

HernandezChop
03-22-2013, 3:31 PM
Cool let me know how it turns out for you

Grinnling
03-24-2013, 10:10 PM
Ok so I had found a photo online from a springer builder Site called steel thunder now I've read online and done research on springer length and such now I'd like to get my stash together to start chopping but I'm starting from the front and ending in the rear now from the editorial it said it was a 2 over and had just the right spacing on it cause over all I wanted the bike to be semetrical lengthwise using the motor as the centerline anyway I'm trying to get as much info as I can I was looking at a w and w springer front end the ones vtwin import or so ive been told and I'm trying to make sure I'm getting the right length



http://www.steelthundercc.com/assets/vern_chopper_photos2011/vernchopper1.jpg

xllance
03-25-2013, 7:34 AM
Ok so I had found a photo online from a springer builder Site called steel thunder now I've read online and done research on springer length and such now I'd like to get my stash together to start chopping but I'm starting from the front and ending in the rear now from the editorial it said it was a 2 over and had just the right spacing on it cause over all I wanted the bike to be semetrical lengthwise using the motor as the centerline anyway I'm trying to get as much info as I can I was looking at a w and w springer front end the ones vtwin import or so ive been told and I'm trying to make sure I'm getting the right length



http://www.steelthundercc.com/assets/vern_chopper_photos2011/vernchopper1.jpg

Shit man could you throw in a comma or period now and then ? It makes your post so much easier to read.

Grinnling
03-25-2013, 11:50 AM
Shit man could you throw in a comma or period now and then ? It makes your post so much easier to read.

Grammars for pansies

dazed84
03-25-2013, 11:52 AM
I've been riding without a horn for a while but I want to put a new one back on. I have a horn I got from Dime City Cycles but its different from the original horn on sportster. The stock horn had one prong where the yellow horn wire clipped on to and a screw in the back that had a grounding wire run from it. The new one has 2 prongs and a crew similar to the grounding screw on the old horn. I figured that I would just splice 2 wires into the yellow so I could get power to both the prongs. However when I wired it up and grounded it from the screw nothing happened. Is one of the prongs used for grounding or am I missing something else more obvious. Heres photos of the horn and the wiring I was planning to use

one prong is hot, one is ground,,,,note screw on back of horn( adjusts horn)

SoupSandwich
03-25-2013, 1:03 PM
Figured this might be the place to ask:

Does anyone know of a conversion bearing that would allow using a 25mm axle on a stock 1990 mag wheel that is 3/4" axle stock?

Trying to work out the logistics of a front end swap and keeping my stock wheel. I understand needing a new inner spacer, which is doable to save some other headaches.

KinkJayRoe
03-25-2013, 7:32 PM
I am trying to wire up a new tail light to my sporty. Tail light consist of yellow ground, black running and red brake light. I believe the sporty wire color codes are black ground, red/yellow brake light, and blue running. Not sure where the orange/white wire goes and I don't have turn signals so the brown and violet don't matter (i'm assuming).

That being said...All that is happening is when I press the rear brake, the brake light and headlight turn on. Otherwise I am not getting any running lights front or back. Fuses are all good, bulbs are all good. Severely confused.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

bobbarooski
03-25-2013, 7:38 PM
there is a lot of diagrams on the search function

70schop
03-25-2013, 7:52 PM
TEST LIGHT! One of the cheapest best tools you'll ever own. Ground the test light and go wire by wire. Check till you find tail light. Mark it. Have someone push the brake, go wire by wire till you find it. Mark it. If you don't have a diagram that fits your needs, process of elimination is the only way to go

KinkJayRoe
03-25-2013, 8:05 PM
makes sense. Seems the best way. Thanks!

nunez8853
03-25-2013, 8:10 PM
I am trying to wire up a new tail light to my sporty. Tail light consist of yellow ground, black running and red brake light. I believe the sporty wire color codes are black ground, red/yellow brake light, and blue running. Not sure where the orange/white wire goes and I don't have turn signals so the brown and violet don't matter (i'm assuming).

That being said...All that is happening is when I press the rear brake, the brake light and headlight turn on. Otherwise I am not getting any running lights front or back. Fuses are all good, bulbs are all good. Severely confused.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!


if i remember right, i think its to the brake switch, or atleast its what i have mine running to,


edit: when i get home ill pull the manual and check for sure.

MotorLeaguer
03-25-2013, 8:23 PM
Any help with my Cam installation question?

KinkJayRoe
03-25-2013, 8:47 PM
yea, I think so as well. Coincidently the brake switch is the only thing turing the head or tail light on. Keep me posted, thanks!

bitpusher
03-25-2013, 8:52 PM
Hey chop cult im looking for new sportster shocks,what is your opinion on best shocks out there for the money,i got 2002 1200 would like to go a little shorter than stock if i dont have to sacrafice the ride,i have 13.25 stock shocks.Also i ride alot rode about 15,000 miles last year thats alot for ohio,so whats best shocks out there?are the 12000s shocks the shit?progressive?

slammers?! you guys either have never run them or lack in reading comprehension.

slammers have 1/2" travel and might as well be struts.

but i have some for dude real cheap iffn he wants to try em. got the fork springs tool.

the the poster: a good, comfortable ride is not possible with a slammed bike, burly or not. you want to feel good at the end of a long ride or do you want to look cool and have a self-medication of choice ready? can't have both ;)

bitpusher
03-25-2013, 8:53 PM
hey ultimate sporty question thread;

i want to make 180hp with an EVO sporty. Help me please!

:D

threat357
03-25-2013, 9:00 PM
Figured this might be the place to ask:

Does anyone know of a conversion bearing that would allow using a 25mm axle on a stock 1990 mag wheel that is 3/4" axle stock?

Trying to work out the logistics of a front end swap and keeping my stock wheel. I understand needing a new inner spacer, which is doable to save some other headaches.

Check out Bitter End Choppers. They have adapters for that. I'll try to find a direct link. Think they run about $30.

threat357
03-25-2013, 9:03 PM
Any help with my Cam installation question?

Had to go back a few pages to find your question. I just replaced a set of sportster cams this afternoon. What exactly is it that you are having problems with?

CRFyou
03-25-2013, 9:29 PM
Dude. Do a little search. This is the one thousandth sportster electrical question.

I already built 3 nuclear bombs with plans I saw on the Internet.

audioslave
03-26-2013, 5:45 AM
What is that? the shifter return spring? no year and a pic that close up it's hard to tell.

But don't sweat-it.. get harley parts fiche diagrams here and you're golden: http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/OEMpartfinder.htm

Thanks!

Found the part no. I was looking for! Good to have that database for the future.

SoupSandwich
03-26-2013, 6:09 AM
Check out Bitter End Choppers. They have adapters for that. I'll try to find a direct link. Think they run about $30.

Thanks for the tip. I checked their site, but only saw reducer/adapters for running 3/4" axle in 25mm or 1" axle wheels. Unfortunately I'm trying to run the oversize 25mm axle where a 3/4" axle was designed to be so I'll need a new bearing with stock od and thickness, but a 25mm id.

If anyone knows the od and thickness of the stock wheel bearing that would be helpful as well.

JumboJuszkiewicz
03-27-2013, 9:04 AM
I've got a 2010 Sportster Forty Eight and I would like to find a top triple tree that doesn't have the integrated risers. I was told the top triple tree off of a 1200 custom would work so i ordered one off an 04 (rubber mount engine so no bushings in the tree) with the intention of shaving the eyebrow headlight mount, but it was way too narrow. Anyone out there know of a stock harley top triple tree that will work. I know Loner Industries makes a nice one but it is around $175 and not in stock.

YOURADHERE
03-27-2013, 9:32 AM
Probably a question for the Sportster thread stickied at the top of the page.

In short you really have 2 options, go with the Loner Industries clamp, which you obviously don't want to do to save some cash.

Your other option is to just remove the stock clamp and just smooth it down yourself. I've looked at it several times and figured nothing a grinder and file couldn't clean right up as long as you take your time. Then you'd have to drill out the holes for regular risers and go from there. Or if you're not confident in your abilities get a machine shop to mill it down for you which may end up costing you more than the $175 piece from Loner.

JumboJuszkiewicz
03-27-2013, 10:03 AM
Probably a question for the Sportster thread stickied at the top of the page.

In short you really have 2 options, go with the Loner Industries clamp, which you obviously don't want to do to save some cash.

Your other option is to just remove the stock clamp and just smooth it down yourself. I've looked at it several times and figured nothing a grinder and file couldn't clean right up as long as you take your time. Then you'd have to drill out the holes for regular risers and go from there. Or if you're not confident in your abilities get a machine shop to mill it down for you which may end up costing you more than the $175 piece from Loner.
I've thought about shaving the original which is probably what I'll end up doing. Sorry if I posted in the wrong thread. This is my first post.

DollaBill
03-27-2013, 10:24 AM
Hey guys, Quck question on converting from rear drum to disc. What stock rear wheel can I run to do the conversion (model, year range maybe) I have access to newer take off wheels. Would a TC softail rear wheel do the job? Any pictures would be awesome as well.

One of the reasons i want to convert is that I drag the ever loving shit out of the brake linkage that runs under the primary on my bike right now.

xllance
03-27-2013, 4:56 PM
Hey guys, Quck question on converting from rear drum to disc. What stock rear wheel can I run to do the conversion (model, year range maybe) I have access to newer take off wheels. Would a TC softail rear wheel do the job? Any pictures would be awesome as well.

One of the reasons i want to convert is that I drag the ever loving shit out of the brake linkage that runs under the primary on my bike right now.

This guy used a Softail wheel..

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=609646

DollaBill
03-28-2013, 12:14 PM
This guy used a Softail wheel..

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=609646

Cool man thanks.

Looks like I can run a 40 spoke that I have and figure out the correct spacing.. Now I just need to figure out what caliper i need to run and how to mount it. All I seem to be coming up with pics of online are swingarm bikes, mines rigid.

Gnarly
03-28-2013, 10:21 PM
Okay...I am pulling out hair trying to figure out what the difference between 80 and 81 ironhead throttle cables. I can find ones that are not compatible with 81+ and I find some that say they are. Some say they are dual cables which I have a single. I need to buy a new cable but I don't want to buy the wrong one.

81 ironhead
Non CV keihn carb
Single throttle.

dazed84
03-29-2013, 7:40 AM
I building My first chop, 03 883, heres a link to the build, http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28538

I removed my cam cover to trim it up, took the cams out..... now i need to put the cams back in.....wtf did i get myself into. I dont wanna blow my engine up, whats my best plan of attack?!

anyone done this? Any help would be appreciated!
thanks!

can o worms ,,seriously get factory manual, explains cam setup,,by the way have fun,I gotta change l/o pump so I,m down for all this fun too(have to setup pump to time with the cams)and alignment too,,,oily days ahead

dazed84
03-29-2013, 7:49 AM
Okay...I am pulling out hair trying to figure out what the difference between 80 and 81 ironhead throttle cables. I can find ones that are not compatible with 81+ and I find some that say they are. Some say they are dual cables which I have a single. I need to buy a new cable but I don't want to buy the wrong one.

81 ironhead
Non CV keihn carb
Single throttle.

ran into this also, the kenhin has different throttle plates s,meaning there is one for single pull(earlymodels,) and one for duel cables(later models) I would take said single pull cable in with me and match up just as long as length dosent come into play found some to fit but where too long to adjust outso made Ferrell to take up slack,now try that with a dellorto hahah,learning all the time with mix and match parts,I,m getting a hold of,,,,.note on duel cable carb, #s ended with a 88 thinking this was year of carb,check top of carb serial # should be on top of carb, should tell what year it was made take it from there

concrete72
03-29-2013, 8:25 AM
87 1100,..why are my forks made in Japan?

ruckus2115
03-29-2013, 8:51 AM
those are rare and worth a lot of coin.....one offs straight from japan.....



if only that were true....harley has been using showa forks for decades.....and well showa is a Japanese company...

dazed84
03-29-2013, 9:07 AM
of all places to go looking for iron head parts,I ambled to the stealership, asked partsguy if they had any ironhead parts,,guy got a look on his face,smirky grin, made me want to jump the counter and give him iron head advice,,,never never go back to the mothership,,,

MrDontPlay
03-29-2013, 5:06 PM
I putting a new side mount tail light on my 06. Which wires do what? Anyone have a diagram?

MGA
03-29-2013, 5:17 PM
brake wire (red/yellow)
running light wire (blue)
ground wire (black)

check the hd manual thread, there's a link to the '06 manual with wiring diagram.

interstatejoe
03-29-2013, 5:56 PM
slammers?! you guys either have never run them or lack in reading comprehension.

slammers have 1/2" travel and might as well be struts.

but i have some for dude real cheap iffn he wants to try em. got the fork springs tool.

the the poster: a good, comfortable ride is not possible with a slammed bike, burly or not. you want to feel good at the end of a long ride or do you want to look cool and have a self-medication of choice ready? can't have both ;)

I put a little over 12k miles on my sporty last year with slammers and a thin ass old gold garage king cobra seat that has maybe 3/4" of padding, might as well be sitting on the frame. If I wanted comfort I'd buy a Cadillac. :D

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h383/joefenech/IMG_20130104_080254_zps351a701a.jpg

MrDontPlay
03-30-2013, 1:31 PM
Who makes cool solo seats for rubbermount sportsters with the big peanut tank?

concrete72
03-30-2013, 3:39 PM
those are rare and worth a lot of coin.....one offs straight from japan.....



if only that were true....harley has been using showa forks for decades.....and well showa is a Japanese company...

I guess I showa know that already. Thanks . For a split second I was "F" why did I shave off the reflectors! Then I finished reading.

dazed84
04-01-2013, 6:49 PM
[QUOTE=1legdave93;47I believe the biggest difference is between the different displacements (900 vs 1000cc) and possibly oil pump designs. I am by no means an expert on this,but I'm sure that there is someone on here that has a bit more input on it than I do.[/QUOTE]
oil pump gasket kits, listed in james gasket co, is as follows,,Sportster ,,(JGI-54-xl),1952-1976,,(JGI-77-xl)1977 thru1990,,,,(JGI-91-xl)1991 up,,,,,.these listing where full gasket kits, for oil pump only.,,,passing the info along to who might need to know,,,

partytime
04-04-2013, 12:54 PM
Probably dumb question, but it's my first run on this.

I put on some spitfire hi n tights(with baffles) recently and the bike started dying when warm. Pulled the plugs and they look pretty sooty, so I think I might be running too rich with these pipes.

Is it normal to have to re-jet the carb after install, or possibly just adjust air/fuel mix? Bike is an 03 sporty with CV carb

squirrel78
04-04-2013, 7:19 PM
I'm not real mechanical when it comes to engines, but I know enough to get me in trouble. So to make this question to the point...I have gas in the oil tank. Took the bike out for a short trip, bike ran fine, parked it and 2 days later there is gas leaking from under the cam cover. Started checking everything and that is when I found the gas in the oil bag. I do have a good manual...and the engine is 03 XL1200. Thanks in advance.

Squirrel

BurlyBrand
04-04-2013, 7:21 PM
Too cool! Send us pics and we'll get you a a Burly shirt. slammer@burlybrand.com





I put a little over 12k miles on my sporty last year with slammers and a thin ass old gold garage king cobra seat that has maybe 3/4" of padding, might as well be sitting on the frame. If I wanted comfort I'd buy a Cadillac. :D

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h383/joefenech/IMG_20130104_080254_zps351a701a.jpg

BrokenSprocketGarage
04-05-2013, 5:34 AM
I'm not real mechanical when it comes to engines, but I know enough to get me in trouble. So to make this question to the point...I have gas in the oil tank. Took the bike out for a short trip, bike ran fine, parked it and 2 days later there is gas leaking from under the cam cover. Started checking everything and that is when I found the gas in the oil bag. I do have a good manual...and the engine is 03 XL1200. Thanks in advance.

Squirrel

Most likeley cause is a stuck or contaminated fuel float. Time for a complete carburetor removal and cleaning, reset float height to factory spec. Check fuel tank petcock to make sure it shuts off fuel flow when bike is not running.
Change engine oil and filter.

sportyBob
04-05-2013, 5:35 PM
<a href="http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/mkamell/media/album/20130405_162351_zpsafd5ef97.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/mkamell/album/20130405_162351_zpsafd5ef97.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130405_162351_zpsafd5ef97.jpg"/></a>

So I bought these rad brass hippy killer pegs. Only problem is they are a bit too shiny for my liking (see points cover for comparison of what I'm looking for).

How do I make them look old/rougher? Scotch pad? light grit sandpaper? Perhaps a newb question but oh well.

xllance
04-05-2013, 9:44 PM
Probably dumb question, but it's my first run on this.

I put on some spitfire hi n tights(with baffles) recently and the bike started dying when warm. Pulled the plugs and they look pretty sooty, so I think I might be running too rich with these pipes.

Is it normal to have to re-jet the carb after install, or possibly just adjust air/fuel mix? Bike is an 03 sporty with CV carb

Yes anytime you change anything affecting the carb or exhaust, you might need to re-jet. Can you post a pic of the baffles ? Those slip-in kind for drag pipes can be pretty restictive.

krowpickin
04-07-2013, 12:38 PM
So ive searched the forum before asking this, and only found some thread with a bunch of pictures that dont work. I have recently bought some old rocky pegs for my 93. clearly the mounting system is different. is there any easy way to get them to mount besides making my own adaptors. I don't have the access to the tools like i used too. Thanks in advance.

AusAndrew
04-07-2013, 4:58 PM
My '81 IH has an enormous, disgusting oil cooler, even has chrome trim to highlight it, just wondering if ironhead's run particularly hot to need an oil cooler or can I just bin it? Thanks.

partytime
04-08-2013, 8:43 AM
These fuckers are made of iron, they overheat pretty easily. You don't HAVE to have one, but if you live somewhere hot don't expect to idle in traffic for very long

Brendden
04-08-2013, 1:34 PM
These fuckers are made of iron, they overheat pretty easily. You don't HAVE to have one, but if you live somewhere hot don't expect to idle in traffic for very long

I actually lane split for the first time today, usually my trip to work is straight 75 for the 20 miles, but everything was backed up, and I was like fuck this, and gave it a shot.

jessejambox
04-09-2013, 5:59 PM
Im in dire need of a alternator rotor for an 88' xlh1200, As im sure many of you are aware, the alternator rotor and the clutch basket are connected for that year sportster. Ive looked everywhere for a replacement part and the few i could find are out of stock or unavailable. Here is a link to an out of stock part for reference.

http://www.jpcycles.com/1988-harley-davidson-sportster-1200-standard-xlh1200/alternators-and-charging-systems/exact-fit

Has anyone else encountered this problem and how did you solve it ?

**i ended up finding the part a few hours away from my house, thanks.**

AlexK
04-10-2013, 8:17 PM
Went out for a nice two hour ride yesterday and at the very end of it I had problems shifting. Seems like it was getting stuck and hard to push/pull on the shift peg. Then when I stopped I had the hardest time finding neutral. I've had the bike 13 years and that's never happened before. The fluid level looked ok. Any ideas what it could be or what I should look for?? It's a 1989 883. Thanks in advance guys!

partytime
04-12-2013, 2:59 PM
Went out for a nice two hour ride yesterday and at the very end of it I had problems shifting. Seems like it was getting stuck and hard to push/pull on the shift peg. Then when I stopped I had the hardest time finding neutral. I've had the bike 13 years and that's never happened before. The fluid level looked ok. Any ideas what it could be or what I should look for?? It's a 1989 883. Thanks in advance guys!

When was the last time you changed the primary fluid and adjusted the clutch? supposed to do it every 10k I believe, I'd start there


as a side note I have a stupid fuckin question, is the stock gas cap on an 01 sportster vented? The manual says

"3. On 1992-2003 models, the fuel tank is vented through a standpipe installed inside the fuel tank."

However the cap has that weird shit in the middle that makes it look vented, and every cap I can find online looks the same and is vented. Anyone know 100%???

quadcambanga
04-13-2013, 9:12 AM
Hope Im posting in the right place lol so I gota 89 sporty EVO motor just bought a 96 buell motor to swap in, being that my old motor is a 4 speed and new is a 5 speed is there any changes to do to my frame,jiffystand,etc? Any tips would help thanks

Bdehlin
04-14-2013, 3:31 PM
Hope Im posting in the right place lol so I gota 89 sporty EVO motor just bought a 96 buell motor to swap in, being that my old motor is a 4 speed and new is a 5 speed is there any changes to do to my frame,jiffystand,etc? Any tips would help thanks

I believe that the 86-03 sporty's have the same motor mounts, should bolt up just fine as long as you're using the mounting plates for that frame.

dazed84
04-15-2013, 6:13 AM
Went out for a nice two hour ride yesterday and at the very end of it I had problems shifting. Seems like it was getting stuck and hard to push/pull on the shift peg. Then when I stopped I had the hardest time finding neutral. I've had the bike 13 years and that's never happened before. The fluid level looked ok. Any ideas what it could be or what I should look for?? It's a 1989 883. Thanks in advance guys!
check your clutch cable is it loose? will cause shifting probs if too loose,not fully disengageing when used...

AlexK
04-15-2013, 6:30 PM
check your clutch cable is it loose? will cause shifting probs if too loose,not fully disengageing when used...

The lever seemed to engaged and disengaged the clutch like normal and didn't seem loose. It didn't drag or anything. Just got hard to push the shifter. I'm going to double check the fluid, and adjustment of the clutch and take another ride tomorrow after work and see how it goes. Thanks guys!

WeldingWookie
04-18-2013, 10:42 AM
The weld on HIH hardtail is nice, and they include an engine jig and DVD to line it all up perfect. Highly recommended.

sweetpotato650
04-20-2013, 7:01 PM
Can anyone help me with wheel spacers? I have a 19" cast wheel on my 96 sportster sport and I bought a 21" spoked for the front end, wheel spacers for the cast wheel dont seam to work.

DirtPoor
04-21-2013, 10:53 PM
anybody have any suggestions of the smallest battery that will turn over a 99 sportster, i dont have money for a lithium. but i cant see a way to get the stock battery to fit without looking like shit.

BrokenSprocketGarage
04-22-2013, 4:25 AM
switch to the '04 and up XL battery

JimmyBK
04-22-2013, 10:34 AM
What about for a kick only ironhead? How small can you go
I would like to stick to acid or a gel battery. I am looking at some 12v 5amp batteries which can get kinda small (3x3x4) will this keep a bike running? for more than a single season?

I had a lithium (ballistics) battery a few years ago and it fucked up my entire electrical system. Well not really, but the system couldn't properly charge it, and it burn out the battery and the charging system.

I have also heard of people using NiCD batteries, but i believe they have a more sophisticated charging system, I think i bike would just burn it out pretty quick.

1211
04-22-2013, 12:30 PM
What about for a kick only ironhead? How small can you go
I would like to stick to acid or a gel battery. I am looking at some 12v 5amp batteries which can get kinda small (3x3x4) will this keep a bike running? for more than a single season?

I had a lithium (ballistics) battery a few years ago and it fucked up my entire electrical system. Well not really, but the system couldn't properly charge it, and it burn out the battery and the charging system.

I have also heard of people using NiCD batteries, but i believe they have a more sophisticated charging system, I think i bike would just burn it out pretty quick.

I ran the smallest battery walmart carried. It was an everlast about 3x3x 5 lasted 3 years for me $ 38 to

dexxx
04-22-2013, 12:38 PM
Hows it going

Is anyone running these covered shocks on their sportster?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHROME-FULLY-COVERED-LOWERING-11-SHOCKS-HARLEY-DYNA-SPORTSTER-SHOVELHEAD-/360638546252?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f7bb814c&vxp=mtr

I got a 72 xlch, and I emailed the seller about them for my bike. They said they wouldn;t work since the ride would be way too stiff... Well I got more trust in chopcult experience than a random dude on ebay (plus I really want them so hopefully someone gives me good news), so figured I'd ask here if any one can help...

I'm also open to buying else where and up to 12" length if there are better options

thanks

hobart
04-22-2013, 12:55 PM
Ive got a 78 and Ive heard that you cant go under 13.5" if your running the stock rear fender. that being said i love the look of these and am interested in what other people have to say.

brach77
04-22-2013, 1:10 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLISTIC-PERFORMANCE-EVO-2-50-SMALL-4-CELL-BATTERY-100-009-2113-0257-/271192588128?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f24567f60&vxp=mtr

ran one of these on a kick only iron head. worked great and its stupid small.

GermanG
04-22-2013, 1:54 PM
You should use a special low amperage regulator. Cycle electric makes one for small batteries. To much charged amperes will burn out your battery and the burnt out battery will destroy your regulator and later on the regulator will burn your generator. This will not happen to every bike with a small battery, because many older generators do produce only low amperages cause the are worn out.
The installation instructions for the cycle electric regulator advise you to put a fuse in the wire to the battery to protect the regulator. I think thats a good idea.

GermanG
04-22-2013, 2:06 PM
Shocks for late Sportster and Shovel and Dyna are not the same. The info of the seller is not correct. You can use Shovel shocks on Sportster up to 1978. But they are much stiffer, very close to struts. Dyna shocks are way to soft. Make yourself a pair of struts in 11 inch and put them on your bike to check tire clearance. The tire will nearly hit the fender if you are running the stock fender and fenderstruts. Now imagine what will happen when you take a girl home from the bar. (this is not a joke, it once happened to me. The lady was not amused)

Blackbetty
04-23-2013, 9:38 AM
Hey guys.

So I'm going HD for my next build. I wanted to build a shovel but I don't think I'm ready to drop $5K on a mystery crusty roller. I'm also kind of looking for something I can ride more than wrench and can log comfortable highway time.

So, that being said, I think an evo chop is right up my alley. There are pre rubber mount 1200s all over the place in my area but realistically I'm not going to get away with anything decent for less than $4k.

I did find a 99 1200S; It's got the cool dual plugged/cammed motor, and it has less than 5K miles. Is $4K too much for a 14 yr old bike w under 5K?

Thanks for any feedback fellas.

XbrooklynX
04-23-2013, 9:41 AM
If its a 1200S then yes $4K is a good amount. Just check that the forks are in good condition because rebuilding those adjustable ones is no easy task.

xllance
04-23-2013, 10:02 PM
Hey guys.

So I'm going HD for my next build. I wanted to build a shovel but I don't think I'm ready to drop $5K on a mystery crusty roller. I'm also kind of looking for something I can ride more than wrench and can log comfortable highway time.

So, that being said, I think an evo chop is right up my alley. There are pre rubber mount 1200s all over the place in my area but realistically I'm not going to get away with anything decent for less than $4k.

I did find a 99 1200S; It's got the cool dual plugged/cammed motor, and it has less than 5K miles. Is $4K too much for a 14 yr old bike w under 5K?

Thanks for any feedback fellas.

I bought a 99 S a couple of years ago. I gave $3500 and the bike had 3700 miles. Kicking myself everyday for selling it !!!

Saltytonk
04-24-2013, 6:59 AM
I bought a 99 S a couple of years ago. I gave $3500 and the bike had 3700 miles. Kicking myself everyday for selling it !!!

me too. I'm trying to get it back tho.

xllance
04-24-2013, 7:24 PM
me too. I'm trying to get it back tho.

Haha!!

drseiss
04-24-2013, 7:48 PM
I got my 1200S last August for $3400 with around 8000 miles on it. Parts can be a bit harder to find but it's not really a big deal. I love this bike and all it's dual-plugged weirdness.

Gnarly
04-24-2013, 7:49 PM
I made a thread but didn't get a response so I'll give it a shot here.

My 81 that I'm building seems to of had head work done at some point so the 1.5" exhaust valves I bought are the wrong size because I need 1.75 xlr exhaust valves.

Do I need to do ANYTHING special to run these valves other than the machine work that has already been done? I'm quite certain the bike was hobbled together with stock parts to be sold. I don't want to screw my self.

GermanG
04-25-2013, 11:33 AM
I made a thread but didn't get a response so I'll give it a shot here.

My 81 that I'm building seems to of had head work done at some point so the 1.5" exhaust valves I bought are the wrong size because I need 1.75 xlr exhaust valves.

Do I need to do ANYTHING special to run these valves other than the machine work that has already been done? I'm quite certain the bike was hobbled together with stock parts to be sold. I don't want to screw my self.

Did the engine run when you bought that bike? If not, turn the engine over by hand carefully after assemby to check that the valves are not touching the pistons. You will have noticed, that the pistons have a pocket on top to clear the valves. I always use the thick copper head gaskets to bring compresion down, improve starting and torque.
If the engine has been runing, everything should be fine. But if you should change carb, air cleaner or exhaust read your plugs to make sure the mixture is a bit on the rich side, to help in keeping the engine cool. I bet there are hot cames in it to.

nastycitydago
04-25-2013, 6:43 PM
what is the best springer front end that isnt harsh on the wallet??

Yxrdave
04-26-2013, 7:27 AM
Anyone know of any differences between 5speed sportster and 2000 buell m2 cyclone transmissions?

ercle69
04-27-2013, 8:44 PM
i highly doubt anyone will answer this, but i need help with my jets. i have a 1997 sporty 1200C, when i bought it i was told it was all Stage One SE stuff in it, and it DID have a SE a/c. however, i feel it is lacking and in need of a good tune. from my research without ripping the carb apart, it SHOULD have 42/175 jets. so i ordered the 45/180 jets and a new needle from cvperformance.com anyone see a problem with this? it now has an a/c from a newer dyna, and a SST 2-1 supertrapp header with a gutted cone engineering muffler that does have a baffle in the end. any help is appreciated!

heres the bike


http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j367/ercle69/Leona006_zpsdb632820.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/ercle69/media/Leona006_zpsdb632820.jpg.html)

xllance
04-27-2013, 9:54 PM
i highly doubt anyone will answer this, but i need help with my jets. i have a 1997 sporty 1200C, when i bought it i was told it was all Stage One SE stuff in it, and it DID have a SE a/c. however, i feel it is lacking and in need of a good tune. from my research without ripping the carb apart, it SHOULD have 42/175 jets. so i ordered the 45/180 jets and a new needle from cvperformance.com anyone see a problem with this? it now has an a/c from a newer dyna, and a SST 2-1 supertrapp header with a gutted cone engineering muffler that does have a baffle in the end. any help is appreciated!

heres the bike


http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j367/ercle69/Leona006_zpsdb632820.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/ercle69/media/Leona006_zpsdb632820.jpg.html)

How do your plugs look after a long ride on the highway ? Just make one jet change at a time on your carb and read your plugs after every change. I guess there are "standard" jets to run with specific factory style mods but with the pipe and ac combo you are running, it's going to be up to you to tune it in.

ercle69
04-27-2013, 10:07 PM
i knew that, does the 45/180 seem like good place to start?

xllance
04-27-2013, 10:23 PM
i knew that, does the 45/180 seem like good place to start?

I'd say so, Just for reference if it means anything, I'm running 46/190 in my stock Ironhead.

Crickjames
04-28-2013, 7:56 AM
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l269/98or00gsr/harley/20130427_135857_zpsf6f9cadd.jpg

I did a search on here and with the ol google and I'm not having. Any luck. I want a 2 gallon tank for my iron. I have the 3.3 and I think it just looks a little big I kno I could use a 48 tank but those are so pricey. Does anyone kno the procedire to use a carb tank on an efi sporty. Or can I even do this? I would like to keep the bike efi not carb (as of now) thanks for any useful tips or info

ercle69
04-28-2013, 3:42 PM
you would have to have someone modify the carb tank so you can install your fuel pump. or check out MercuryMoto, im pretty sure he makes a small tank for injected machines.

Bammers
04-29-2013, 4:42 PM
I'm working on a 68' Ironhead build; not sure whether or not to run a magneto or what the pros and cons are. Don't really know much about them, just trying to get some feedback from anyone with more knowledge.

Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

Grinnling
05-02-2013, 7:45 PM
Well does this look normal to anyone?39105

Cause that's how I got the bike and I can't connect the battery I know the battery fits but I can't get it all connected

Trav101
05-10-2013, 1:53 PM
Hope Im posting in the right place lol so I gota 89 sporty EVO motor just bought a 96 buell motor to swap in, being that my old motor is a 4 speed and new is a 5 speed is there any changes to do to my frame,jiffystand,etc? Any tips would help thanks

Finaly something I can answer!! I have an 89 sportster, I put 98 buell motor in the stock frame with no problems. chain drive if that matters.

Trav101
05-10-2013, 1:57 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/11/dygeja6u.jpg
Picture for reference .

ercle69
05-17-2013, 6:50 PM
How do your plugs look after a long ride on the highway ? Just make one jet change at a time on your carb and read your plugs after every change. I guess there are "standard" jets to run with specific factory style mods but with the pipe and ac combo you are running, it's going to be up to you to tune it in.



HELP!!!

ordered the 45/180 jets, they were smaller than the jets already installed. it had 48/185, so i re-ordered a 50/190 combo. installed new NGK plugs and Accel 8.5 wires made for it, stock coil, but it still cuts out really bad at high rpm and speed. top end of 2nd gear, it cuts out, or anything above 80-85 mph. any suggestions? it had the vacuum petcock, but no longer does, would there be a sensor from that screwing with things? i also have a 3 prong flat plug in with a black/green/white wires in it not hooked to anything that i can find.....

thanks!

ercle69
05-19-2013, 8:42 PM
NONE of you fucks can help at all????

Black
05-20-2013, 3:15 AM
Guys, need your help with clutch/tranny issue. Got sporty XL 883 rebored to 1200, 1996 with 102.000km /about 68.000 miles. I am the 4th owner and did about 5.000km on the bike since I bought it last autumn. I always was worried because the shift lever was really like made of stone- hard to push but according to all web forums, this is quite normal with older sportys.(this is my first "real" bike I must say).

The problems with the clutch/tranny started last week when I got hard times with finding neutral. Went for a planned ride (about 500 miles) on saturday, and after about 150 miles, the shift lever just made "ping" and stayed pressed. Suprised, I jumped into the crossings and the bike died. After trying to adjust the clutch, I was able to find neutral and push it to pertol station. I thought that the clutch adjusting screw went loose, but after adjusting, when I kicked in 1st, the bike jumped forth and died. Then when I fully screwed out the adjusting screw on clutch I was able to take the whole screw out with the inner ring of the throwout bearing out so i presume the problem was found. However, after I towed the bike home, when I spoke with the guy who sold me the bike (3rd owner), who got the bike for 2 seasons, he told me that he was changing the bearing each season, lastly before he sold me the bike, because the bearing was toast and one of the bearing balls went into the clutch basked and fucked the whole basket up. There went in used and repaired clutch with new bearing but survived about 4.000km.

I guess I should await this as when I was changing the trans fluid last week, on the release screw where the magnet is was quite a big cloud of iron particles- but the previous owner told me this could be fine because these particles could just been flown out after the last accident and not to worry and also some wearing is normal.

Well my question is, is the construction of the clutch so weak that the release mechanism is hold in place just by the bearing? (I have to mention that the pinon ring which should hold the inner ring of the bearing was not in there- I just hope the one who was puttin ghte clutch together after the accident forgot to put it in place and that it didnt messed up somewhere ddeper in the clutch) How long should the bearing survive? Could the problem be potentially more structural so the tosted bearing is just symptom of something more critical? The bike has forward controls which use to operate the shifter throught the original shifter lever, which is however quite short (about 1/3 of the original lenght, turned up to 12 o clock) so could this cause an excessive pressure on the shifting mechanism? Any help, suggestions and Ideas warmthly welcomed. I am afraid that Ill put in a new clutch and I will end with fcked up basket in next 4000km again.... :confused:

xllance
05-20-2013, 4:11 AM
NONE of you fucks can help at all????

Sounds like it's leaning out to me. Sooooo, how do the plugs read ?

ercle69
05-23-2013, 4:51 PM
plugs said lean with bigger jets, so we adjusted the air/fuel, and bingo!!! plugs say good, and runs great.
decided the cutting out issue was likely a delivery problem, so we flushed the tank of the ratty ass liner that was falling apart and replaced the petcock filter with a new one.
it now makes it to high 3rd gear instead of 2nd before it cuts out when WOT from dead stop, and 85-90 mph before cutting out from 60 mph to WOT, instead of 80-85 mph. any other advice? the timing is good and to spec, new NGKs, and 8.8mm Accel wires. i need this fixed, and right the fuck now, any help is appreciated!!! thanks!

ercle69
05-25-2013, 3:18 PM
anyone? i know its not a fuckin shovel but for fucks sake....

pedrodeleon
05-26-2013, 1:43 AM
anyone? i know its not a fuckin shovel but for fucks sake....

I had a similar situation last year and couldn't figure it out after adjusting everything and going through everything. What it ended up being was the diaphragm on the CV carb was worn out and had lost its elasticity. Don't know if you have a CV carb but if you do check it out.

And don't get all pissed when people don't answer your questions quick enough for you. We all know how frustrating it is when your bike's not running well but no one here has to answer and will probably be less likely to if you direct your frustration towards them. Back before forums like this one you were lucky if you could find someone knowledgeable enough to help you out and then you had to convince them it was worth their time to do it.

Hope you get the problem solved.

007
05-27-2013, 9:34 AM
HELP!!!

ordered the 45/180 jets, they were smaller than the jets already installed. it had 48/185, so i re-ordered a 50/190 combo. installed new NGK plugs and Accel 8.5 wires made for it, stock coil, but it still cuts out really bad at high rpm and speed. top end of 2nd gear, it cuts out, or anything above 80-85 mph. any suggestions? it had the vacuum petcock, but no longer does, would there be a sensor from that screwing with things? i also have a 3 prong flat plug in with a black/green/white wires in it not hooked to anything that i can find.....

thanks!


Those jets are ridiculously huge, that's probably why you can't get the bike to rev at all. I'm assuming that your bike is a stock 1200 from what I have seen. A 45/170 is more than enough for what you have, maybe even a 43/170. Christ, I run 45/175 jets in my .030" over 1200 with high compression, ported heads, and cams.

And I would put your factory needle back in while you are at it if you changed to the CV Performance needle. The CV carbs work just fine as they are without adding all of that high dollar gadgetry to it.

ercle69
05-27-2013, 1:24 PM
well it had 48/185 in it from the get go, and the a/c and pipe combo leaned it out way too fuckin much. perhaps altitude/weather differences? i do believe the petcock is not flowing enough fuel at high rpms.

007
05-27-2013, 2:26 PM
well it had 48/185 in it from the get go, and the a/c and pipe combo leaned it out way too fuckin much. perhaps altitude/weather differences? i do believe the petcock is not flowing enough fuel at high rpms.

This is why nobody will respond to your questions. I have actual experience tuning these bikes and took the time to give you solid advice which you chose to ignore. No way in hell is your bike running too lean unless you have other problems. Good luck.

ercle69
05-27-2013, 2:40 PM
well my apologies. just telling you what was going on, on my thought. what else could be going on that huge jets would fix? if a 48/185 combo is too lean, wouldnt it be logical to go bigger???

007
05-27-2013, 3:11 PM
well my apologies. just telling you what was going on, on my thought. what else could be going on that huge jets would fix? if a 48/185 combo is too lean, wouldnt it be logical to go bigger???

If it is truly too lean then you likely have a huge intake seal leak somewhere. Have you sprayed around the intake seals with the bike idling to see if there is a change in RPM's? Have you checked to make sure that your diaphragm is working correctly? Are you using an adjustable needle in the carb now? Post up a pic of your plugs, I would like to see what they look like.

nastycitydago
05-27-2013, 5:55 PM
Need help. I cleaned my carb and reassembled it runs fine , but the carb has hiccups. It idles good but when I try to ride it it hiccups and jerks.

How many turns out for stock mixture screw?

ercle69
05-27-2013, 7:28 PM
i will post plug pics shortly. i have not done the spray test, and i do not have any starting fluid, any substitutes? i do not have an adjustable needle, i am however using 2 very thin washers...

ercle69
05-27-2013, 7:36 PM
these suggest kinda lean, right? or am i completely retarded.... this is RIGHT after a 15 minute ride home from a buddys shop. temp at 69deg. i typically run 87 or 89 octane fuel, depending on where i get it, every 5 or 6 tanks ill run 90.


http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j367/ercle69/plugs003_zps8a3947d4.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/ercle69/media/plugs003_zps8a3947d4.jpg.html)
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j367/ercle69/plugs001_zps1ec870d5.jpg (http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/ercle69/media/plugs001_zps1ec870d5.jpg.html)

ercle69
05-27-2013, 7:46 PM
i found some carb cleaner out in the shop, sprayed it all around the intake boot, and as far as i could hear, there was NO change in RPM...

007
05-27-2013, 8:41 PM
I assume those plugs are fairly new from the look of them and they don't look like it is running lean to me, they actually look alright.

I'm still going to say it is way too rich from the mid range on. Raising the needle with those washers along with the jumbo sized main jet is giving it more gas than it can handle. You should have been able to go down in jetting after switching from the drag pipes to the 2 into 1.

I would still go with a 45 slow jet, take the washers off of the needle, and put a smaller main jet in it. If the smallest main you have is a 180, it will probably be alright after you take the washers off of the needle. I would also throw in a fresh pair of the HD 6R12 plugs since yours might be fouled up at this point, and they do work very well.

If you have a Dynojet kit in the carb that uses the smaller Mikuni style main jets then my opinion changes entirely. They are setup differently than a carb with the factory parts.

ercle69
05-28-2013, 5:05 AM
i thought the same in regards to jet size after 2-1. ill try the washer removal and change the jets back to 45/180, since its the smallest i have. i presume the slide diaphragm is working good, it has no visible damage. the accelerator pump is only a few months old. the plugs will likely wait until later on, as i wont be making the 1 hour drive to the local shop anytime soon, but when i do, ill pick up a couple of sets.

FYI - those NGK plugs pictured are the next heat range UP from stock.

the jets and needle are all from CV Performance, nothing from Dynojet. i think your probably right on the rich midrange, it pulls hard and fast in the lower RPMs. this may also fix the issue of cutting out at higher RPMs, and the petcock may have nothing to do with that at all? do you really think i need to put the stock needle back in? i already have the CV brand, even though it may have been an unnecessary expenditure....

thanks for all your help!

007
05-28-2013, 8:36 AM
Yep, I would put the stock needle back in if you are going to run the 180 main jet for the time being. The CV Performance needles and the N65 needles are designed to be used with the smaller stock sized main jets to give you a little more fuel in the mid range. If you pair the aftermarket needle with a big main jet you will still likely be too rich. If you drop down to say a 170 main, then the CV Performance needle will probably work well.

The hotter plug is probably masking the rich condition because they tend to stay cleaner and give the appearance of the engine running leaner than it actually is.

I like to run the clear fuel line between the petcock and carb so I can glance down and see what is going on. I always buy the blueish tinted stuff for motocross bikes because it is thick and durable.

I hope this helps to get you in the right direction anyway. It's damn near impossible to diagnose these things over the internet.

nastycitydago
05-28-2013, 9:02 AM
007 Will adding shims to the needle eliminate carb hiccups?? My bikes is running well but I relieve is runnin lean in the lower rpm because my bike won't take off smoothly and carb hiccups.

007
05-28-2013, 10:06 AM
007 Will adding shims to the needle eliminate carb hiccups?? My bikes is running well but I relieve is runnin lean in the lower rpm because my bike won't take off smoothly and carb hiccups.

You probably either need a bigger slow jet or you might get away with just richening up your idle mixture a little. There isn't a set number of turns but you need to back the screw out slowly until the idle starts to drop and the bike wants to die. Then turn it back in a quarter turn or so until it starts to clear up.

ercle69
05-28-2013, 6:19 PM
alright 007, i swapped the jets for a 45/180 combo, and removed washers and re-installed stock needle. runs WAY better, boils the tire with a slight adjustment of weight distribution, however, it probably needs a more experienced ear to tune it even better. and a fresh set of plugs. the cutting out problem still persists though, at high speeds. suggestions? could it be a petcock issue? also, i am running a non vacuum petcock, it had a vacuum powered one from the get-go, and i never did anything with the VOES. do i need to, or am i remembering something completely unrelated??

tobiism
05-28-2013, 6:30 PM
alright 007, i swapped the jets for a 45/180 combo, and removed washers and re-installed stock needle. runs WAY better, boils the tire with a slight adjustment of weight distribution, however, it probably needs a more experienced ear to tune it even better. and a fresh set of plugs. the cutting out problem still persists though, at high speeds. suggestions? could it be a petcock issue? also, i am running a non vacuum petcock, it had a vacuum powered one from the get-go, and i never did anything with the VOES. do i need to, or am i remembering something completely unrelated??

When your bike had the vacuum operated petcock it would have had a y-fitting in the vacuum line from the carb. One side of the y went to the petcock and the other side went to the VOES. When you removed the petcock did you plug that vacuum line?

ercle69
05-28-2013, 6:38 PM
there is still the vacuum line on the top intake side of the carb, it runs to some damn sensor. i seem to remember modding the vacuum line so it was just that part, and there is also a 3/8 ish fuel inlet sized fitting directly behind the actual fuel inlet that has a plug on it....... am i close? i honestly dont remember!

tobiism
05-28-2013, 6:52 PM
the most important part is that you dont want any vacuum line coming off of the carb to be open to the atmosphere.

hillakilla
05-28-2013, 6:57 PM
is there a reason the vacuum petcock/carb setup was changed? can you put it back to stock?

are you sure it's not still running rich? i mean, if you did what 007 suggested and it got better, but still isn't great, you might have to lean it out more.

when you are doing your plug readings, are you killing the engine as it is cutting out at higher rpms? if not, you aren't getting a good reading of what is happening at that moment.

ercle69
05-28-2013, 6:58 PM
no, its hooked up to the sensor. although, i do not know what the sensor does now that there is no vacuum petcock.... any ideas as to the cutting out? coil? is there a crank position sensor that may be screwing with the timing at higher rpms? the timing plate on the cam cover is right where it should be.

ercle69
05-28-2013, 7:01 PM
i changed the petcock because it started leaking, and i was not going to spend 80 bucks on a stock one, so i got a cheaper normal one. and no, i have not killed the engine as it is cutting out, i never thought of that...

in regards to leaning it more, if i turn out the a/f screw any more, it idles very rough and dies...

hillakilla
05-28-2013, 7:16 PM
the sensor is your VOES, which does affect your timing. i don't know if or how much not having the vacuum line to the tank would change anything.

turning the mixture screw out is making the bike richer. turn it in until it idles rough, then count how many turns out you can go before it runs rough on the other end. then turn it back in half the amount you turned it out.

007
05-28-2013, 7:18 PM
I'm glad you got it running better. I am doubting that it is a problem with your petcock, does it pull hard through the lower gears all the way to the rev limiter or so? If it does, it probably is not the petcock. The only real way to tell is if you put some clear fuel line on to see if it is running dry. I run one of those cheapo 1/4" petcocks from Lowbrow on my bike with a 90" Sportster engine full of race goodies and it supplies enough fuel believe it or not. So it doesn't take much if you have a steady flow of fuel going through the line.

I am guessing that those spark plugs along with the still overly large main jet is the problem with the cutting out. Even though it runs way better, you still really need about a 170 main jet. When you get a chance to grab the plugs, get a 170 jet and pop it in there to find out for sure. I bet that will do the trick.

ercle69
05-28-2013, 8:56 PM
if the weather permits tomorrow, i will get a set of plugs and a 170 and see how she does. thank you all so very much!!! i was not trying to sound arrogant, but i am not one to throw money at a problem without at LEAST understanding the problem a little better, and i am by NO means an expert. thanks again!!

nastycitydago
05-28-2013, 9:12 PM
I need help one of my shock mount bolts are stripped and theres no way to remove it?!??! I took out the rear fender and no bolt to remove the shock bolt.....

ercle69
05-28-2013, 9:20 PM
that looks to be a pressed in stud. some PB and a big hammer should do.

nastycitydago
05-28-2013, 9:32 PM
that looks to be a pressed in stud. some PB and a big hammer should do.

cool ill try that out tomorrow!

rick666
05-28-2013, 10:02 PM
so heres the deal, I bought a Flyrite rigid frame thats for a iron head motor, Im told I can run an evo in it as well. I got a frame mount 1200 evo for it, but am having trouble figuring out what offset I would need for the front cog on it...Really just wondering if anyone else has done this same combo or at least some advice on how to get the measurements or if I can fab some spaces to make this work.

007
05-29-2013, 3:00 AM
if the weather permits tomorrow, i will get a set of plugs and a 170 and see how she does. thank you all so very much!!! i was not trying to sound arrogant, but i am not one to throw money at a problem without at LEAST understanding the problem a little better, and i am by NO means an expert. thanks again!!

You are most welcome, I hope that does the trick for you. I'm no expert either, I have just spent a good bit of time working on these carbs on various bikes over the years. Good luck dodging the rain drops today, let me know how it turns out.

bobscogin
05-29-2013, 6:02 AM
Why not start with the stock sprocket and see how it aligns with your rear wheel set up? That question really can't be answered without knowing what rear wheel, tire size, rear sprocket you're using.

Bob

ercle69
05-29-2013, 10:27 AM
so, when i get the 170 main, i should re-install the cv needle and any washers? would replacing the coil with a newer/better one help anything at all?