PDA

View Full Version : The Ultimate Sportster Question Thread. To the MAX!



Pages : 1 2 [3] 4

Hdvw1
09-16-2013, 7:14 PM
I have always ran straight 50 in all mine.

13clicks
09-17-2013, 9:40 AM
I had a slight leak and a random puff of smoke on a 69 sporty with regular 10/40 mc oil... I filled it with straight 50 motorcycle oil and it now has half of the drips and smoke.

jorgun
09-17-2013, 10:22 AM
Straight 60w in the summer
straight 50w the rest of the time.

Tried running multi vis oils and always had problems.

hillakilla
09-17-2013, 3:18 PM
Straight 60w in the summer
straight 50w the rest of the time.

Tried running multi vis oils and always had problems.

what kind of temperatures are you talking in your "winter" and "summer"?

jerk301
09-20-2013, 12:57 PM
I'm looking for some cool forward controls for my 92 Sportster chop. Anybody know of a site that sells anything cool?

EVOEATR
09-20-2013, 4:29 PM
There's a crazy new thing for computers called the internet...

deathmetaldan
09-20-2013, 5:23 PM
google it

rus
09-20-2013, 5:24 PM
its a chop, build some.

ATNasty
09-20-2013, 5:57 PM
Anyone know what years rear fender will fit on a 97 sportster.. is it 86-03?

junkyardxl
09-20-2013, 6:06 PM
I believe so. 04 and up is wider and i believe the Ironheads have a different bolt pattern.

choadpanther
09-20-2013, 6:17 PM
TC Bros sells a nice universal kit:

http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/forward-controls/universal-forward-controls-with-mounting-kit.html

Edster
09-21-2013, 8:04 AM
Is there a way to tell what years the wheels for sportster are? I have a set of mags I need to sell for a friend that he got in trade and I am trying to find out what year they are from to list them correctly

Try lookin for a part number like that looks like this; 32982-98. The last two digits after the dash indicates the year the part was first introduced. If followed by a letter such as, 32982-98A that indicates a revision to the original part. There are a few parts that don't fall under this numbering system but they are few and far between.

shiftace
09-22-2013, 12:34 PM
Looking for a laydownor chopped smoked taillight for a 97 Sporty. Everything I've seen online is for 03 and up with the different connector setup. I had chopped LED one on my dyna but it wont work at all on this bike. completely different electronics.

OhioFlameThrower
09-22-2013, 7:15 PM
Not much out there... that's why I designed and machined my own for my '71 Sporty.

www.flamethrowercustoms.blogspot.com
www.flamethrowercustoms.com
ftcustoms (Instagram)

IronheadVic
10-03-2013, 11:25 AM
Anyone know what years rear fender will fit on a 97 sportster.. is it 86-03?

Here is what I do for these type of questions of my own.

I go to JP Cycles and look for a replacement fender for a 1997 sportster.
After I find one, I look at 'fitment' years.
I just did this and they say it only fits 1997 and 1998. So OEM would be 97 or 98.
But anything could be 'made' to fit, just not sure how easy or hard it would be for say a 96 or 99, maybe you drill a new hole, maybe you move the ECM, etc....

Cupmonkey
10-17-2013, 6:07 PM
Need help with my ironhead.

About a year and a half ago I took the engine out of my original frame and put it into a rigid frame. In the process i changed clutch cables. When I pulled the primary off, I noticed the primary fluid was milky. I put the new cable on and put the cover back on. I didnt fill it back up with oil. As the months went on the bike sat at a buddy's shop while he did some fab work. Now that everything is back together, I replaced all fluids and tried to go for a ride. When I put it in first gear it dies. Before the tear down, the bike ran fine. I followed the clutch adjusting steps to the T. Could my plates be sticking and if so...does anyone have an old bearded wizard trick to get these unstuck?
I should mention its a 1977 kick only sportster.

Any help from you guys and gals (and anything in between) would be appreciated.

BrokenSprocketGarage
10-20-2013, 6:19 PM
Need help with my ironhead.

About a year and a half ago I took the engine out of my original frame and put it into a rigid frame. In the process i changed clutch cables. When I pulled the primary off, I noticed the primary fluid was milky. I put the new cable on and put the cover back on. I didnt fill it back up with oil. As the months went on the bike sat at a buddy's shop while he did some fab work. Now that everything is back together, I replaced all fluids and tried to go for a ride. When I put it in first gear it dies. Before the tear down, the bike ran fine. I followed the clutch adjusting steps to the T. Could my plates be sticking and if so...does anyone have an old bearded wizard trick to get these unstuck?
I should mention its a 1977 kick only sportster.

Any help from you guys and gals (and anything in between) would be appreciated.

Remove primary cover. Disassemble clutch. Clean it. Inspect it for rust or warpage. Reassemble. Add oil. Ride it.

lilsportyrider25
10-21-2013, 4:47 PM
well my coil took a shit on me and now trying to find one that I don't have to wait two weeks for it just seeing if any one knows if there are other years that would work since its my daily driver any help would be nice

Cupmonkey
10-21-2013, 5:24 PM
well my coil took a shit on me and now trying to find one that I don't have to wait two weeks for it just seeing if any one knows if there are other years that would work since its my daily driver any help would be nice

What kind of bike and coil do you need?

JALDANA92
11-02-2013, 10:55 AM
i get around 25 miles per gallon on a 2 gallon alien tank.........vance and hines short shots and a arlen ness super sucker......any way to improve??? oh yeah stock cv carb with stock jets

JALDANA92
11-02-2013, 10:55 AM
any coils up to 2003 will work

GermanG
11-04-2013, 12:48 PM
i get around 25 miles per gallon on a 2 gallon alien tank.........vance and hines short shots and a arlen ness super sucker......any way to improve??? oh yeah stock cv carb with stock jets

Might be running to rich. What does the plugs look like? Black = to rich. Another sign of an engine running to rich is, that you do not have to use the enricher to start it, or can push the enricher back very soon. There are several threads on here about how to adjust a CV.

Rob86
11-14-2013, 4:41 PM
I did a search and couldn't find a definite answer on here or anywhere really and this may be a slightly dumb question.... I just picked up another evo sporty and it's got a mikuni carb, from what I can tell it has a cv air filter adaptor already on it and is running one of those karakuyan hyper charger filters. Needless to say i want to bin the hyper asscharger thing asap but wanted to know if anyone has run a cv filter (i'd like another of the little mooneyes ones) on one of these the adaptors and if it's a straight fit or if you need to mod or get other parts? any info would be great as I have to order most of my parts from OS and would like to have everything I need ready to go when they arrive. Cheers

farmall
11-17-2013, 5:11 PM
Need recommendations for stainless Ironhead drag pipes, slashcut or straight cut OK.

Thegreatplains
11-20-2013, 10:18 AM
I have an ironhead with no control switches. Someone wanna post some pictures or give me suggestions for light switches, horn, all that shit?

Thanks
-Joe

sportysrock
11-20-2013, 6:46 PM
I have an ironhead with no control switches. Someone wanna post some pictures or give me suggestions for light switches, horn, all that shit?

Thanks
-Joe

Joe, I got a set of Night Rod Special dimpled bars, switches for both sides, 2 clutch levers, a clutch cable, and a late model throttle pull cable, & a couple of grips including the throttle tube - used parts off EBay. The levers are the clamps for the switch housings and notches connect the two.

The pin from my old control fits the new clutch lever so I could use the existing clutch cable. I chopped the new clutch cable to go with the flipped clutch control used for the front brake. The throttle cable barely stretches to the carb so a custom one is needed.

I soldered up the wires and stuff seems to work ok from the little it has been run.

Sent with :-)

MotorLeaguer
11-21-2013, 5:08 PM
How Important is the front top motor mount ? I've seen a few chops, sportster a and buells without them. Also I don't think and big V-Twins even have them??

Somebody fill me in!

ATNasty
11-28-2013, 3:52 AM
So I have a 97 883 and I'm running drag pipes with lollipops. I want to get the conversion to 1200 eventually. What are some pipes that I can get that will make my low and mid end not suck while I have the 883, but will still be good pipes for when I do the conversion? Does it matter?

yozer13
11-28-2013, 10:10 AM
A good 2-1 works best but not everyone is a fan if u want cheap, that patriot defender pipe works really good and it's stainless just looks gash, if you can handle the looks go for that one

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

sportysrock
11-28-2013, 1:44 PM
So I have a 97 883 and I'm running drag pipes with lollipops. I want to get the conversion to 1200 eventually. What are some pipes that I can get that will make my low and mid end not suck while I have the 883, but will still be good pipes for when I do the conversion? Does it matter?

Get the stock head pipes with the crossover pipe and then full flowing mufflers will work well. You can Gronk-mod some stock mufflers for a free flow, good sound, and good exhaust dynamics. I have done 3 sets of them with the last ones drilled to 5/16". They perform well.

Link to the XLF Exhaust Sticky Index (http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=642406)

My drag pipes have can opener baffles in them about 1/2 way closed, and lollipops in the end for exhaust dynamics & insurance after one of the baffles was spit out the back. It has a hot rod sound without being obnoxious. I'm going to get stock head pipes next for the best fit, and make drag pipe extensions with the same can opener baffle setup or Khromewerks HP+ baffles.

Sent with :-)

Cupmonkey
12-01-2013, 9:58 AM
Anyone know what year primary covers will fit on a 77 xlch?

GermanG
12-01-2013, 10:10 AM
Anyone know what year primary covers will fit on a 77 xlch?

All 77 - 85 are the same.

Cupmonkey
12-01-2013, 12:03 PM
Thanks

Maxxvr
12-02-2013, 9:47 PM
quick questions,

1. I'm doing the 883 to 1250 kit using stock heads and cam, do i need a different ignition? ('98)

2. Best hardtail for pre 04 sporty. no more than 2" stretch and drop

m2bueller
12-03-2013, 5:00 PM
quick questions,

1. I'm doing the 883 to 1250 kit using stock heads and cam, do i need a different ignition? ('98)
No


2. Best hardtail for pre 04 sporty. no more than 2" stretch and drop
Mike 47 or Led sled are my 2 favorites

Maxxvr
12-03-2013, 11:33 PM
No


Mike 47 or Led sled are my 2 favorites

thank you for the quick response.

sportysrock
12-04-2013, 9:56 AM
quick questions,

1. I'm doing the 883 to 1250 kit using stock heads and cam, do i need a different ignition? ('98)

2. Best hardtail for pre 04 sporty. no more than 2" stretch and drop

Anything you want to know about a 883 to 1250 conversion look at the tech pages at Hammer Performance or NRHS Performance websites. A 1250 under 883 stock heads will result in a high CR if they are flat top pistons. There are many piston designs, what are the new ones like? What are the stock heads from, a 883 or 1200, & what year? 883 heads most likely will require changes to timing for best results.
Sent with :-)

junkyardxl
12-04-2013, 10:38 AM
quick questions,

1. I'm doing the 883 to 1250 kit using stock heads and cam, do i need a different ignition? ('98)

2. Best hardtail for pre 04 sporty. no more than 2" stretch and drop

No but Dan at hammer highly recommends for max potential.

Clockwork444
12-08-2013, 6:39 PM
i know people have gone over this, but i cant find anything with the search function.

i am trying to find a spoke rear wheel for my 01 sportster. does anyone know exactly what wheels are compatible? all i know is the wheel should be a 3.5x16, and i think the 00-03 are a 3/4 axle. is the width going to work for the brake and sprocket, if i buy a dyna wheel, say?

junkyardxl
12-08-2013, 7:30 PM
if the width is the same it will work. im pretty sure the pulleys and brake will bolt up. as long as the wheel is the same width and the axle diameter is the same you should be fine.

Clockwork444
12-08-2013, 7:36 PM
alright. ill get some good accurate measurements before i buy anything. it seems sportster wire wheels are harder to find than dynas, thats why i ask. thanks

sportysrock
12-09-2013, 7:54 AM
There's a few HD Dealer sites with parts fiche lookups you can use for detective work.


Sent with :-)

ATNasty
12-10-2013, 11:21 PM
I wanted to see what peoples thoughts were on a rebuilt title sportster.. there is one that I am talking to a guy about. 97 1200 with 25,000 miles. for $1500. Im gonna check it out later this week.. Im a little apprehensive because of the title thing.. how important is this?

Nosebleed
12-10-2013, 11:32 PM
You mean a salvage title or a special construction title? Here are the things to consider: 1. Insurance. Talk to your company and get a quote before you buy the bike. It will be more. 2. Do you plan to sell it? Salvage or spec con titled bikes are harder to sell later.

ATNasty
12-11-2013, 12:20 AM
You mean a salvage title or a special construction title? Here are the things to consider: 1. Insurance. Talk to your company and get a quote before you buy the bike. It will be more. 2. Do you plan to sell it? Salvage or spec con titled bikes are harder to sell later.

I didn't see the title.. but the guy said rebuilt.. I looked up what that means in Nevada.. apparently when you have a rebuilt title it passed inspection by a body shop and meet federal regulations to be deemed rebuilt.. Thanks for the info.. Im gonna contact my insurance company and see how much it would cost to insure it. If I get it.. I'm just gonna ride it.. probably chop it up and keep it in the family.. thanks again!

ThePete
12-11-2013, 6:59 AM
I'm pretty sure rebuilt = salvaged, the big difference is the inspection as far as your piece of mind goes only you can make the determination if it's worth it to you. Just make sure you go over it really well before you hand over the cash, depending on how competent you feel your judgement is or isn't two sets of eyes isn't a bad idea. If you plan on flipping it a future buyer might be a bit leery but for $1500 it doesn't seem too bad to me. Years back I bought a GSXR that had been high sided and fucked up pretty bad, a couple weekends and a lot of my ham fisted blood sweat and tears later I had a pretty sweet looking GSXR SRAD for maybe a total of $1700. I rode that bike like I stole it for a few years till the cam tensioners failed and I fucked up the top end. I sold it to a guy who totaled his own bike but had a good motor for $1000 within 2-3 weeks and he didn't care about the title he just wanted something straight to swap his shit over to.

Nosebleed
12-11-2013, 7:42 AM
Remember title goes with frame not motor. If the motor is good you can always part the bike out and make your money back and more. Insurance will be a bigger concern likely but it may vary by ztate. 1500 is a good deal unless it's just worn out.

mrshortbusrider
12-19-2013, 2:31 PM
I have a 57xl sportster motor that is missing basicly everything under primary cover, trans, clutch everything......if I was to try to put it all back together is there other years that all the internals are the same or what other years can I pull parts off if I come across anything else.


and are all the rear brake drum backing plates that use the rod the same. I see when looking people saying matching drum and what not but when looking at aftermarket they say from like 54 or whatever to 70 something as a replacement........

ATNasty
12-27-2013, 11:22 PM
My 97 sportster was running ok.. Now after cleaning the k&n air filter its bogging and idling weak.. Im running drag pipes, and a stock carb and k&n airfilter. I also upped the jets two sizes from stock. Before it started running funny it was runnin ok but leaking gas theought the air filter.. I checked the plugs and it seems like its running lean.. Puts me off that its lean now but was leaking gas?? Help!

BurgBob
12-28-2013, 2:10 AM
Need some ideas guys. Got a sporty from out of state that's ready to go, but I failed inspection because the brake light doesn't activate when the front brake is pressed. Works perfectly fine on the rear side, but it's not wired up to the front. After a bit pulling the front brake lever apart and master cylinder off, I realized the brake switch is supposed to be in a switch housing which isn't on the bike whatsoever. I'm trying to figure out a way to rig a switch up off that brake lever so that I can go down and get my goddamn inspection for the man. If anyone has any bright ideas, it'd be much appreciated. I'm trying to avoid buying a whole fucking switch housing and switch just for this dumb shit.

xyster220
12-28-2013, 12:03 PM
Need recommendations for stainless Ironhead drag pipes, slashcut or straight cut OK.

If you're looking for fullly customizable, check with Tyler at www.sikpipes.com, he's got a lot of interesting designs, and being as everything he does is one-off he can probably work with you. I got a set from him that seem to be great quality, and had a few tweaks added per my request. He does take quite some time though depending on his workload, mine took about four months... but they look killer. I haven't gotten far enough in my build yet to install them and comment on sound however.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

junkyardxl
12-28-2013, 3:21 PM
Need some ideas guys. Got a sporty from out of state that's ready to go, but I failed inspection because the brake light doesn't activate when the front brake is pressed. Works perfectly fine on the rear side, but it's not wired up to the front. After a bit pulling the front brake lever apart and master cylinder off, I realized the brake switch is supposed to be in a switch housing which isn't on the bike whatsoever. I'm trying to figure out a way to rig a switch up off that brake lever so that I can go down and get my goddamn inspection for the man. If anyone has any bright ideas, it'd be much appreciated. I'm trying to avoid buying a whole fucking switch housing and switch just for this dumb shit.

Wire a momentary switch in to the brake and mount it where the brake lever contacts on pull. Should be able to find at any parts store. Cheap and will get you through inspection.

ATNasty
01-10-2014, 6:24 AM
Does anyone know if a coil off of a rubber mount would work on a solid mount bike? Like coil off a 2012 on a 97?

BrokenSprocketGarage
01-10-2014, 6:46 AM
Does anyone know if a coil off of a rubber mount would work on a solid mount bike? Like coil off a 2012 on a 97?
NO will not work. 2012 is EFI and therfore single fire. 1997 is carb'd and dual fire (as stock).
I have a few used coils for '97 I can sell ya. PM if interested

LoudFastThrash
01-10-2014, 11:14 AM
Dumb question here. I want to put rabbit ear bars on my sporty but am confused on how riserless bars install. I haven't seen a set up close and couldn't really find the info on here or Google. Are they internally threaded or do I need a new triple tree or what?

Nosebleed
01-10-2014, 11:38 AM
Yes, riserless bars will have a threaded bung welded into the bottom of them. Should mount right up using all of your stock hardware. I don't know what bike youre riding, but just make sure that they are spaced for whatever it is that you ride. Pretty much all modern HD bikes have the same spacing between the holes, pretty sure it's 3.5 inches.

LoudFastThrash
01-11-2014, 9:38 PM
Rad thanks.

dexxx
01-14-2014, 12:05 AM
shortest (smallest stretch) ironhead weld on hardtail? Liking this look a lot, but im guessing this is a complete aftermarket frame, unless someone knows something i dont... thanks

https://31.media.tumblr.com/cd824f09f180e276da8230023c475b9d/tumblr_mzbeg6Cr9b1runcvvo5_1280.jpg

badgerskunk
01-16-2014, 10:01 PM
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv52/kgregersen/back-1.jpg
Just got the new bars on and wondering what to do next, kind of want to put a 5 ft sissy on her

ATNasty
01-19-2014, 12:57 AM
So there is a guy selling a 86 1100 sportster out here with out a title.. I got him down to $1000. Am I able to get a title for this bike.. If so I'm thinking it would be worth it but if not I'm not gonna bother..

Nosebleed
01-19-2014, 1:23 AM
So there is a guy selling a 86 1100 sportster out here with out a title.. I got him down to $1000. Am I able to get a title for this bike.. If so I'm thinking it would be worth it but if not I'm not gonna bother..

Contact your local DMV and ask. If not you can part it out and make a little cash. Title goes with frame so that will be hard to sell but worth a try. Have local LE run the VIN to make sure its not stolen before you buy.

There's usually a reason that people don't have a title. If the bike was ever titled under the current owner's name then he could get a replacement title for around $50 in most states. I would ask him straight up whether it was ever titled in his name. Probably belonged to his cousin Jerry, or an old buddy of his that he used to ride with...blah blah...some long story about how he got it...

Anyway, gotta make sure that it's not stolen. Buddy of mine has been riding his Shovel for around 10 years. Got pulled over a few months ago, turned out the bike was stolen in Florida in like 1985. Bad juju.

ATNasty
01-19-2014, 3:30 AM
Contact your local DMV and ask. If not you can part it out and make a little cash. Title goes with frame so that will be hard to sell but worth a try. Have local LE run the VIN to make sure its not stolen before you buy.

There's usually a reason that people don't have a title. If the bike was ever titled under the current owner's name then he could get a replacement title for around $50 in most states. I would ask him straight up whether it was ever titled in his name. Probably belonged to his cousin Jerry, or an old buddy of his that he used to ride with...blah blah...some long story about how he got it...

Anyway, gotta make sure that it's not stolen. Buddy of mine has been riding his Shovel for around 10 years. Got pulled over a few months ago, turned out the bike was stolen in Florida in like 1985. Bad juju.

Okay word.. Thanks I actually have a neighbor that's a cop so I'll have him run it. That's a crazy story about your friend with the shovel too.

Rob86
01-19-2014, 5:03 AM
Can anyone help me out with a thread size and pitch where the petcock threads into a stock, flat bottomed sporty tank? It's of a 95 model and I need to get an elbow piece so I can run an inline filter.

Thanks!

ATNasty
01-19-2014, 8:03 PM
Does anyone know what year HD switched the vin numbers to 17 digits? Also how many it used to be before 17?

Clockwork444
01-23-2014, 7:02 PM
anyone tried to fit a newer seat on a 00-03 sportster? i really want a 04-06 style lepera cherokee seat, wondering what would have to happen to make it fit

junkyardxl
01-23-2014, 8:48 PM
anyone tried to fit a newer seat on a 00-03 sportster? i really want a 04-06 style lepera cherokee seat, wondering what would have to happen to make it fit

Change the front mount bracket on the seat

Clockwork444
01-23-2014, 8:56 PM
Change the front mount bracket on the seat

works for me :) ha thx

sportysrock
01-26-2014, 12:10 PM
Does anyone know what year HD switched the vin numbers to 17 digits? Also how many it used to be before 17?

Serial Numbers and Production (http://www.harleyhummerclub.org/restore/chapter02/)

"Sometime back in the teens, Harley-Davidson standardized their serial number scheme. The serial number is stamped into the engine. This scheme was used until the 1970's when 17-digit Vehicle Identification Number was mandated by law ..."

There's more on the page linked above.

RagBadge
01-26-2014, 6:28 PM
I know there are a few threads that touch on this topic but I'm having trouble picking through all of it and making it make sense to me.

I have a 1994 XL883 with a CV Carb. I'm trying to get rid of the ham-can air filter and replace it with a velocity stack from Bison Motorsports.

Do I need to get Breather Bolts if I do this? What purpose do they serve? My understanding is that they send excess fuel that isn't burnt in combustion back into the filter/carb for eficiency and emissions reasons?

Or can I just take off the ham can and throw on the velocity stack?

Once I do get the Velocity Stack on breather bolts or not, am I i going to need to adjust my carb?

Any thing else I need to do?

Here's a photo of what I'm working with inside the can

sportysrock
01-26-2014, 9:58 PM
RagBadge, you usually re-jet because of the freer breathing aftermarket filter that is typically installed. I can't imagine a freer breathing setup than a velocity stack. I don't think it's a good setup because at speed, air passing the end of the stack screws with your draw of air and actually hurts performance - exactly what people have said about Hypercharger ACs. Not to mention dirt or the things in the hands of little helpers who like to put them into places like that.

People also usually add breather lines off the breather bolts routing oil blowby to the ground or a catch can, in conjunction to a carb support bracket to keep your carb from falling out making you go lean mixture-wise which would be a bad thing.

Hammer Performance has very good AC designs in oval or round with a machined-in bell mouth.

mikewerx
01-30-2014, 2:32 PM
So just picked up a nice old springer, and plan on putting it on my swingarm ironhead, but already dropped the rear, and want the dropped ride up front too, but have no idea how short I should cut the springer down to. Love the look of Max's knuck, so can anyone advise on how long from lower tree the springer legs should be? The bike is completely stripped down, otherwise it would be easier.

Running a 21" up front

Thanks!

junkyardxl
01-30-2014, 8:49 PM
Can't you place the wheel where you want it to be and measure from the axle to the center of the hub for the difference. That was my plan on my springer. Cut at the top and re thread the tubing for the caps.

shiftace
01-30-2014, 9:15 PM
Anyone got brake upgrade ideas for pre 2000 sporty's? I've done the bagger brembo calipers before on 2000 and later bikes but my 95 uses a different caliper mounting setup so that caliper won't work.. This single pot caliper isn't cutting it.

mikewerx
01-30-2014, 10:44 PM
Can't you place the wheel where you want it to be and measure from the axle to the center of the hub for the difference. That was my plan on my springer. Cut at the top and re thread the tubing for the caps.

I would, yeah, but tires are off, wheels are delaced...so looking if there were any good measurements.

nomoney
02-04-2014, 1:30 PM
Yall will have to excuse this dumbass newb, I posted what's probably a common question in the forum before I noticed this thread.

I just picked up a pretty complete 1980 roller sporty in a trade. I've built a couple grudge match cars and I know my way around a pushrod motor but this is my first foray into motorcycles. I've ridden but never owned or maintained one.

What year parts and motor will work on my bike? Do I have to use 1980 stuff or are parts interchangeable for a certain generation? Sorry for the long windedness


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sportysrock
02-05-2014, 11:40 AM
Nomoney, get a parts and a service manual at the dealer. They are worth it. Parts have a number like this 12345-80(A) which is 5#s-year introduced and sometimes a letter for the current revision. 32436-91B is an ignition kit, which came out in 91 and has been revised 2x with an A and again with a B.

-- Sent with :-)

nomoney
02-05-2014, 9:41 PM
Ok thanks man, I have the shop manual in one of the boxes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nomoney
02-13-2014, 7:45 PM
What's the stock tooth count on a 1980 sprocket


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sportysrock
02-13-2014, 9:22 PM
1980 so 4 speed,
engine 34
clutch 59

Trans final drive 21
Rear wheel final drive 51

-- Sent with :-)

MRB
02-15-2014, 10:57 PM
Ive always went with fine thread for nuts and course thread for going in to cast or aluminum.
MRB

MRB
02-15-2014, 10:58 PM
Ok. What size and pitch are the rear motor mount bolts on a 93' 1200? 3/8x24? 3/8x16?

Fine for nuts and course for cast or aluminum

Cbbobber80
02-17-2014, 4:09 PM
Is it possible to true my flywheels without a truing stand or lathe? Picked up a 72 basket case and the P.O forgot to install the clutch hub spacer. Jacked a bunch of shit up, main issue was my compensator sprocket extension eating into my case. Have a new left side case, my cases are split, and my flywheels are out.

Thanks in advance

crodriguez
02-19-2014, 1:13 PM
Is anyone making hardtails for 04+ sportsters besides Led Sled, Kansas, and V-Twin?

Nosebleed
02-19-2014, 1:18 PM
Is anyone making hardtails for 04+ sportsters besides Led Sled, Kansas, and V-Twin?

Twisted Choppers up in Sioux Falls does if you want to order one, and MercuryMoto makes them by hand out in waaaay southern California. Not sure if Special 79 or 47 industries does them special order, but they might. Look up Mercury, 79 or 47 here on CC and contact them. Let me know if you can't track 'em down and I'll assist.

berryzz
02-19-2014, 5:32 PM
Hey guys I have a 95 sportster 883 and was just seeing if anyone knows what manifold I need to run a s&s Super E?? Thanks for the help

Skylar
02-21-2014, 10:57 AM
http://s27.postimg.org/vw160cm83/IMG_5113.jpg
http://s27.postimg.org/50vpz6umb/IMG_5106.jpg
http://s27.postimg.org/l0ediqqo3/IMG_5100.jpg

coma bike I have owned for a month but it's been too cold until this weekend to work on it. Once I get the tank cleaned out I need to do the rest of the fluids, what do you guys think?

sportysrock
02-21-2014, 5:54 PM
6.7 miles? Shit the dealer usually puts 5 to 10 on them around here. What year is that Skylar, mid 90's?

-- Sent with :-)

LoudFastThrash
02-22-2014, 3:03 AM
This is my first year with a bike, I have an 88 sporty. I work away from home so I haven't seen my bike since I put it into storage in October but my dad went and checked on it about a week ago and said there's a giant puddle of oil and that it leaked from "everywhere". I can't get pictures for another month or so but what could I do in the meantime to prepare? What might I be looking at? It always leaked a little out of the primary but nothing major. I'm wondering if it's my seals from the temperature drop (-20 celcius)

sportysrock
02-22-2014, 6:49 AM
It might not be that much oil because it tends to spread and look like more. Break down and put a primary gasket on it or get a pan :D

-- Sent with :-)

Skylar
02-23-2014, 10:37 AM
6.7 miles? Shit the dealer usually puts 5 to 10 on them around here. What year is that Skylar, mid 90's?

-- Sent with :-)


That's a 1993. It was bought and rode twice by a man who had cancer and didn't know it, timing coincided with his health deteriorating. He locked it in a garage and pulled the ignition because he lived in a sketchy neighborhood. Replacing all the fluids, cleaning the carb, cleaning the tank, and gonna see how it fires up once Michigan is a little warmer.

sportysrock
02-24-2014, 7:57 AM
Bummer for him, good for you though. I assume those are stock mufflers. I've done several sets of mufflers with the "Gronk Mod" to the baffles. You get good flow, and a nice deep tone without being too loud. Put on a high flow AC with a rejet and get a nice torque/HP bump.

Here's a link (http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=16948)

My current set has the baffles bolted in with exhaust adapters stuck in the end to center the baffles. The extra bit was cut off the end.

Skylar
02-24-2014, 12:11 PM
Bummer for him, good for you though. I assume those are stock mufflers. I've done several sets of mufflers with the "Gronk Mod" to the baffles. You get good flow, and a nice deep tone without being too loud. Put on a high flow AC with a rejet and get a nice torque/HP bump.

Here's a link (http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=16948)

My current set has the baffles bolted in with exhaust adapters stuck in the end to center the baffles. The extra bit was cut off the end.

Gronk mod! I'll have a look. I know that in a stock pipe there might be stuff like pollution restrictors, As long as it doesn't alter the pipes too much. Going with easy bolt on parts on this one in case I wanna sell to somebody who wants a really stock 90s XL.

glosshogg
02-24-2014, 1:40 PM
can anyone tell me if I can run a later style clutch hub/basket (67 on) in a 64 xlch? Picked up a couple basket sportys (64 xlch, early 70s 1000) and the 64 clutch/primary assembly is cooked...can I run the the clutch out of the later motor or would it be best to hunt down an early 60s assembly? thanks in advance

maxcapacity
02-24-2014, 3:01 PM
Through 71 it was a dry clutch set up. 72 and up is a wet clutch. It is possible to convert one to the other but most often the conversion is from late style to early style. It is probably possible to go the other way but it would be easier to just get the right parts.

glosshogg
02-24-2014, 11:49 PM
Through 71 it was a dry clutch set up. 72 and up is a wet clutch. It is possible to convert one to the other but most often the conversion is from late style to early style. It is probably possible to go the other way but it would be easier to just get the right parts.

Thanks for the reply, I have read a few discussions on the wet/dry swaps and found it mostly involved the switch to wet style plates and lack of the derby cover etc, what I'm really after is whether or not the drum, basket and inner workings will mate up without much trouble? Mainshaft splines seem the same and line up nicely but length of early main shaft vs 71 and on? I've googled the living hell out of it but for the most part all I get is Barnett links :D

HM0125
02-28-2014, 2:51 AM
Need some advice.

I'm really close to buying myself a Sportster. I'm looking around and I found this one for $3600. Assuming its a clean title, would you guys consider this a good deal or not?

http://images.craigslist.org/00m0m_eoa0yOc8X4_600x450.jpg


Harley sportster 883, this bike is a 2000 but only has 4300 miles on it, it's been sitting around for a while so we did a complete service job on it, including cleaning the carburetor and gas tank out, we pulled all the clutch plates apart cleaned them thoroughly replaced all the oil, New spark plug tightens every bolt on the bike. This bike is turn key, ready to go. Great bike.
$3600

sportysrock
02-28-2014, 7:50 AM
Maybe, look it up on NADA. It's winter make a lower offer.

-- Sent with :-)

ATNasty
02-28-2014, 7:53 PM
I want to get rid of my eyelid and idiot lights.. I am also getting a new headlight.. if I am using the same wiring can I just cut those wires and box from under the eyelid? or will that mess something up?

dexxx
02-28-2014, 8:00 PM
am i losing out on any power at all by using a mikuni vm36 vs a vm38 on my ironhead? I know bigger carb equals potentially more power, but can anyone speak from experience of whether or not its worth it for me to seek out a 38

thanks

xllance
02-28-2014, 8:14 PM
Need some advice.

I'm really close to buying myself a Sportster. I'm looking around and I found this one for $3600. Assuming its a clean title, would you guys consider this a good deal or not?

http://images.craigslist.org/00m0m_eoa0yOc8X4_600x450.jpg

Little high for an old 883 even if it's low miles.

ATNasty
02-28-2014, 10:48 PM
Need some advice.

I'm really close to buying myself a Sportster. I'm looking around and I found this one for $3600. Assuming its a clean title, would you guys consider this a good deal or not?

http://images.craigslist.org/00m0m_eoa0yOc8X4_600x450.jpg

You can get a 1200 for that price. I just picked up a 95 883 with 11,xxx miles. Clean and clear title.. Asking price was $3500 I got it for $2000.. Check the nada value.. Show him the actual value and offer him somewhere close to that. That's what I did. Good luck

sportysrock
03-01-2014, 12:49 PM
Oh, and is that it in flat black for that price? Too much. Flat's ok, but HD paint is pretty nice.

ATNasty
03-01-2014, 8:17 PM
I want to get rid of my eyelid and idiot lights.. I am also getting a new headlight.. if I am using the same wiring can I just cut those wires and box from under the eyelid? or will that mess something up?

Anyone, anyone.. Bueller?

HM0125
03-03-2014, 12:18 AM
You can get a 1200 for that price. I just picked up a 95 883 with 11,xxx miles. Clean and clear title.. Asking price was $3500 I got it for $2000.. Check the nada value.. Show him the actual value and offer him somewhere close to that. That's what I did. Good luck

I'm meeting with him this Wednesday, I'll try this out.


Oh, and is that it in flat black for that price? Too much. Flat's ok, but HD paint is pretty nice.

Looks like it. Should I use this to lower the price?

sportysrock
03-03-2014, 9:50 PM
Yeah, I would say so. Some like flat black, but it would be worth less without nice factory paint.

-- Sent with :-)

CaptCaveman
03-03-2014, 10:52 PM
I want to get rid of my eyelid and idiot lights.. I am also getting a new headlight.. if I am using the same wiring can I just cut those wires and box from under the eyelid? or will that mess something up?

What year? I'd say mostly yep, just unplug the wires and tuck them back out of the way but some of the newer years might be different.

CaptCaveman
03-03-2014, 10:55 PM
am i losing out on any power at all by using a mikuni vm36 vs a vm38 on my ironhead? I know bigger carb equals potentially more power, but can anyone speak from experience of whether or not its worth it for me to seek out a 38

thanks

You'll lose power on the top end though for stop to stop light you'd be OK but I'd keep the vm-38 as it's a solid carb that works well.

ATNasty
03-04-2014, 6:52 AM
What year? I'd say mostly yep, just unplug the wires and tuck them back out of the way but some of the newer years might be different.

Its a 95.. thanks

Clockwork444
03-04-2014, 10:11 PM
i bought my 2001 sportster XL1200 custom for 3000 with 23,000 miles. so i say no that is not that great of a deal. i understand i got a really good one, but i think u can do better.

Skylar
03-05-2014, 10:48 AM
I'm meeting with him this Wednesday, I'll try this out.



Looks like it. Should I use this to lower the price?


Don't be afraid to throw a low number out there, there are lots of 883 models out there that guys sold because they ran out of motor. I know you wanna ride it now but don't go into the meet all hungry to buy.

HM0125
03-05-2014, 3:26 PM
Nice bike. Looks clean. However the lowest he'd go is $3400. He wants to get what he's "put into it". So I told him I'd contact him later to see if he'd go lower.

Going to check this one out next.

2003 Harley Davidson Sportster XLH 883 (100 Year Anniversary Edition)

http://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_9f4EjkezpFF_600x450.jpg


I bought this bike from Bartels with around 100 miles on it. The original owner kept it as a collector's item and never rode it. I put 3000 miles on it and absolutely love it but am about to move and could use the money. . . and will upgrade to a bigger bike at some point. This bike is perfect for a new rider or someone who does a lot of city riding. The bike is clean, all stock, and has never been laid down. The paint and chrome are unscratched. . . this might be the best 2003 bike out there. Yes that picture is of my actualy bike. Yes it only has 3000 miles!


Thanks for the input guys.

sportysrock
03-07-2014, 8:29 PM
What's that come up on NADA for value? I would go look but this is my phone and it's a PITA.

-- Sent with :-)

HM0125
03-07-2014, 9:57 PM
Average retail is $3,045. The seller is asking for $4000, which is "fair" according to him.

sportysrock
03-07-2014, 10:56 PM
Nice with the wire wheels

-- Sent with :-)

NoFaithSailor
03-08-2014, 10:35 PM
I'm stumped. I went 6 over on my 77 IH and I can't get the Allen bolt to tighten to the shock absorber tube. It's snug but still spins. I've tried everything I can think of. Anyone have a trick?

Sky
03-08-2014, 10:47 PM
Is there spring press above? It helps hold ghe damper tube ftom spinning. Then use an air ratchet, aka butterfly. A small impact may work but be carefull.

theGreatSkyFather

NoFaithSailor
03-08-2014, 11:07 PM
Is there spring press above? It helps hold ghe damper tube ftom spinning. Then use an air ratchet, aka butterfly. A small impact may work but be carefull.

theGreatSkyFather

Yeah I have spring pressure. I even tried compressing them to put extra pressure on the tube with the same results. I do need to make them stop spinning right?

HM0125
03-09-2014, 1:33 PM
Nice bike. Looks clean. However the lowest he'd go is $3400. He wants to get what he's "put into it". So I told him I'd contact him later to see if he'd go lower.

Going to check this one out next.

2003 Harley Davidson Sportster XLH 883 (100 Year Anniversary Edition)

http://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_9f4EjkezpFF_600x450.jpg




Thanks for the input guys.


Went to go see it. Offered $3500, he'll go for $3900. What do you guys think? Should I take it for that?

7and7is
03-09-2014, 4:15 PM
That's a good look'n bike, 03's are hard to beat, last year of that style so Harley had worked out all the bugs, very reliable machines, from the pics it looks well cared for, I looked up the blue book its $3400, saying that, again it looks really taken care of so the value looks to be there, still your money your call.

Edit: and there is still plenty of after market for the 03's, if your into that kinda thing.

sportysrock
03-09-2014, 7:51 PM
You could tell him to split the difference. At least it's not a plastic bike. The value is there because it's steel. You can do anything to it.

-- Sent with :-)

AcewithaJ
03-12-2014, 1:54 PM
<a href="http://s412.photobucket.com/user/jsheehan90/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/4B9B4DED-043C-40B3-BBF0-E0C8428CEC70.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp203/jsheehan90/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/4B9B4DED-043C-40B3-BBF0-E0C8428CEC70.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 4B9B4DED-043C-40B3-BBF0-E0C8428CEC70.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s412.photobucket.com/user/jsheehan90/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/1EFA7FC5-5F4C-4976-8A49-24BC9ED982F3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp203/jsheehan90/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/1EFA7FC5-5F4C-4976-8A49-24BC9ED982F3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1EFA7FC5-5F4C-4976-8A49-24BC9ED982F3.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s412.photobucket.com/user/jsheehan90/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/8EFE8CB0-C6CC-4F84-87A1-6C20C1D435AF.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp203/jsheehan90/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/8EFE8CB0-C6CC-4F84-87A1-6C20C1D435AF.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8EFE8CB0-C6CC-4F84-87A1-6C20C1D435AF.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s412.photobucket.com/user/jsheehan90/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/AA935A39-D912-4380-8275-06EA65C724DF.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp203/jsheehan90/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/AA935A39-D912-4380-8275-06EA65C724DF.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo AA935A39-D912-4380-8275-06EA65C724DF.jpg"/></a>
Just picked up this 79 ironhead sporty 1000cc for $2500. Mostly stock. This is my first Harley, starts up every time and nice idle. Its definitely goings to need a tune up, but I was wondering since this is the "Bastard" model from AMF, is the hype about these being leaky clunkers true? And if so what are the first steps I should take to assure longevity and reliability? Things to look for? Little nuances and small tid bits of information can go a long way. I can do all my own BASIC maintenance (IE Changing tires, carbs, oil, swapping parts.) When should I learn to step back and let a professional step in.

Nosebleed
03-12-2014, 2:02 PM
Well, the first and most important thing to know is this: NEVER get them wet!

Nah, hey that's funny because I'm working on an 81 (79-81 are the bastard years apparently, nice) and it has the same set of tins in that burnt orange color. If you decide to switch tins and want to sell that tank, let me know please. Yours looks a lot nicer than mine, haha.

Other than that I don't have much to offer because mine's not running yet. I'm switching to a CV carb, this one still has the butterfly on it. Oh, and it's impossible to find a decent aftermarket replacement seat to go on it but if you're interested in a nice vintage king and queen style seat I have one that will fit on it.

davidabl
03-12-2014, 3:50 PM
it's impossible to find a decent aftermarket replacement seat to go on it


Get a used Lepera solo and a wedge PPad?
Or the Biltwell equivalents
But if you're running rear suspension, rigid mount the seat.
It seems appropriate for a Sportster of that era.

LoudFastThrash
03-12-2014, 10:06 PM
I just ordered a new frame from led sled, This will be my first crack at taking apart/a closer look at my bike. I've been away from the country since the fall. Do I buy bearings for the steering stem? What size? I plan on getting a spitfire girder and don't what little things I'll need. Also what size riserless bars would fit in the spitfire? I'm overwhelmed especially without being able to look at the bike first hand yet but glad you guys are here to help me get things together.

GermanG
03-14-2014, 12:50 PM
<a href="http://s412.photobucket.com/user/jsheehan90/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/AA935A39-D912-4380-8275-06EA65C724DF.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp203/jsheehan90/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/AA935A39-D912-4380-8275-06EA65C724DF.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo AA935A39-D912-4380-8275-06EA65C724DF.jpg"/></a>
Just picked up this 79 ironhead sporty 1000cc for $2500. Mostly stock. This is my first Harley, starts up every time and nice idle. Its definitely goings to need a tune up, but I was wondering since this is the "Bastard" model from AMF, is the hype about these being leaky clunkers true? And if so what are the first steps I should take to assure longevity and reliability? Things to look for? Little nuances and small tid bits of information can go a long way. I can do all my own BASIC maintenance (IE Changing tires, carbs, oil, swapping parts.) When should I learn to step back and let a professional step in.[/QUOTE]

You have bought a good bike. I would not call a 79 a bastard year. The new frame is stiffer and better handling than those before. The engine case is stronger and you can still fit a kicker if you like. The place where the rear brake master is fitted is unique and you can not use exhaust pipes of earlier or later models. You can fit a later sprocket cover 80 up or modify the one you have and fit a later foot rest bracket, to move the master down to the place it is fitted on all later models.
Most important services are: adjust pushrods, adjust primary chain, adjust ignition, if it does not have the stock electronic unit. Read your spark plugs. You can find excellent info about all that on youtube.
Run straight 50 or 60 engine oil and the special Sportster primary/gear box oil. You certainly know there are two seperate oil systems.
There is only one thing that seems to be missing on the bike or I canīt spot it in the pictures. It is a carb support! The original carb is supported by the air cleaner, which is mounted to the cylinder heads. The S&S does come with a support bracket, that mounts to the air cleaner back plate and the front intake lifter block screw at the engine case. Check the S&S home page, it is shown there. The carb is now hanging in the manifold rubberbands only and they will crack and an air leak will be the result.
Most important is to buy or download the factory service manual (it is on here somewhere) and a factory parts book, which shows all parts in exploded view. Good luck!:)

AcewithaJ
03-15-2014, 10:36 AM
You have bought a good bike. I would not call a 79 a bastard year. The new frame is stiffer and better handling than those before. The engine case is stronger and you can still fit a kicker if you like. The place where the rear brake master is fitted is unique and you can not use exhaust pipes of earlier or later models. You can fit a later sprocket cover 80 up or modify the one you have and fit a later foot rest bracket, to move the master down to the place it is fitted on all later models.
Most important services are: adjust pushrods, adjust primary chain, adjust ignition, if it does not have the stock electronic unit. Read your spark plugs. You can find excellent info about all that on youtube.
Run straight 50 or 60 engine oil and the special Sportster primary/gear box oil. You certainly know there are two seperate oil systems.
There is only one thing that seems to be missing on the bike or I canīt spot it in the pictures. It is a carb support! The original carb is supported by the air cleaner, which is mounted to the cylinder heads. The S&S does come with a support bracket, that mounts to the air cleaner back plate and the front intake lifter block screw at the engine case. Check the S&S home page, it is shown there. The carb is now hanging in the manifold rubberbands only and they will crack and an air leak will be the result.
Most important is to buy or download the factory service manual (it is on here somewhere) and a factory parts book, which shows all parts in exploded view. Good luck!:)[/QUOTE]

Thanks for all the help, my posts usually fall on def ears. Ill rip right into it!

Clockwork444
03-15-2014, 4:25 PM
hey guys, i am finishing up wiring clean up on my 2001 sportster. the harness is complete and in tact. i have a plug that i cant find a home for.

it is a black 3 prong (one of the PITA ones, not a deutsch brand connector) it has

BLack
Green
White/Blk

the wiring diagrams ive found are not showing this plug anywhere on them. i am thinking maybe it is the tach plug? my tach is deleted. help!

7and7is
03-15-2014, 6:17 PM
If its located up by the VOES its for Cali models, it would plug into some kind of emission device, I think the tach. wire is pink and it runs up and terminates at the big connector behind the headlight

Clockwork444
03-15-2014, 8:31 PM
i finally hunted the answer down, and you are correct. thanks for the info. i just cut the wires and shrink wrapped the ends shut. thanks for the info!

CaptCaveman
03-16-2014, 10:08 AM
79-81 were the "transition" years for the Sportster and 79 had some one off stuff like ehaust pipes. Overall it's a good bike, just find a factory service manual and you can fix anything.

nomoney
03-16-2014, 12:57 PM
Would anybody be willing to post pictures of their 79-80 rear master cylinder and how the hard line and plunger rod are routed? I'm piecing together a bastard frame. I'm thinking about trying to make my own mid controls but can't figure out the routing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thibay
03-18-2014, 5:31 AM
Does anyone know who makes this bolt-on hard-tail? Where can I purchase one?

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m305/MotorcycleMonkey/ironheadbolton_zps9f78adb3.jpg

Well are you sure guys this bolt-on is a John Penner and no SportySpecialties ? I don't want any stretch.
Did someone had any luck contacting John Penner ? I'm overseas and can't speak good enough over the phone so an email or reseller would be better.

Thanks ;)

CM
03-19-2014, 8:57 AM
Looking to order one of the Goodridge Banjo Bolts with Built-In Brake Light Pressure Switches and they come in 3/8, 7/16 and 10mm. Anyone know what size the banjo bolt fitting on a 95 1200 sporster would be?

StockroomBoy
03-19-2014, 5:17 PM
Anyone with a 2004-2006 sporty and thunderheader that can send me a pic of their bracket? scored a used one but zero mounting hardware and I need to see someones to give me a head start. Thanks!!!!

crazygermanboy
03-24-2014, 1:17 PM
hey, quick question: would i be able to mount mids from a 2008 883 iron on my 1999 883 sporty? got the forwards right now and want to change em'.

shiftace
03-24-2014, 7:30 PM
hey, quick question: would i be able to mount mids from a 2008 883 iron on my 1999 883 sporty? got the forwards right now and want to change em'.

no. different styles. you'd need 88-03 mids.

doppleganger87
03-27-2014, 12:41 AM
Soak clutch plates in automatic transmission fluid ..will unseize and clean them up like new

ChrisFinn22
03-30-2014, 9:29 PM
I have a 95 Sportster and need help with hiding the wires? Im pretty good at wiring just need a place to start and how. Thanks

JMLewis87
03-30-2014, 11:42 PM
I have a 95 Sportster and need help with hiding the wires? Im pretty good at wiring just need a place to start and how. Thanks

If you aren't set on running the full handlebar controls and whatnot I'd recommend a rewire. Get rid of all of the crap that you don't need and it reduces the wiring significantly. I think when its all said and done I will only maybe have 3 wires coming from the far front end, two from the headlight and one from the brake light switch that will be hidden in the handlebars.

If you want to keep everything and hide it then internally wire your handlebars, then drill a hole at the front of the backbone and run the wires internally through the frame down to about where your seat mounts. There are plenty of threads here detailing stuff like that and an awesome thread on Sportster rewiring in the HOW TO section of the forum.

tobiism
03-31-2014, 9:23 PM
no. different styles. you'd need 88-03 mids.

Make that 91-03, 4 spd Evo sporty mids are different.

shiftace
04-01-2014, 10:05 AM
Make that 91-03, 4 spd Evo sporty mids are different.
You are right sir. my bad.

sportyLM
04-05-2014, 6:57 AM
I've seen some sportsters with a wide glide front end what are the benefits if any

CaptCaveman
04-05-2014, 9:27 AM
I've seen some sportsters with a wide glide front end what are the benefits if any

Looks....

sportyLM
04-05-2014, 10:50 AM
Can you just use the triple trees

BattleBorn1
04-05-2014, 4:08 PM
I have a 95 sportster 883 that I am trying to re wire.. I took off the stock headlight and eyelid.. Cut the connector boxes.. Now I can't get my new headlight to work and my rear turns won't blink.. They light up but no blink. What is the minimum wires I need to run a headlight? And what could be the reason the blinkers don't work?

JMLewis87
04-05-2014, 9:23 PM
I have a 95 sportster 883 that I am trying to re wire.. I took off the stock headlight and eyelid.. Cut the connector boxes.. Now I can't get my new headlight to work and my rear turns won't blink.. They light up but no blink. What is the minimum wires I need to run a headlight? And what could be the reason the blinkers don't work?

I don't have an answer for the signals because I'm not running any myself and have completely removed them but as far as the headlight goes it should only be 3 or 4 wires. Power, Ground, High Beam, Low Beam. The High/Low wire into your stock controls. Find the correct wires coming off of the stock headlight for power and ground and use test leads right off of your battery just to make sure the light is still working correctly.

rextec
04-05-2014, 9:34 PM
Went to go see it. Offered $3500, he'll go for $3900. What do you guys think? Should I take it for that?

I bought my '03 1200C for $4200 SUPER clean with 9000 miles on it, just for reference. Thats a good looking bike, and looks to be well taken care of.

HM0125
04-06-2014, 9:55 AM
I bought my '03 1200C for $4200 SUPER clean with 9000 miles on it, just for reference. Thats a good looking bike, and looks to be well taken care of.

Ended up taking it for $3900. Been riding it everywhere.

BattleBorn1
04-06-2014, 9:50 PM
Thanks for the reply.. I tested the light and it works. Gonna figure it out when I get home

Clockwork444
04-09-2014, 5:44 PM
guys my taillight blew a bulb, and i only have 5 volts at the rear plug. it is a no school choppers tail light. the wiring is all stock and it worked before. no matter what i do or where i find a ground with my meter the most i get is 5v. the bulb is burned at the base but the two coils inside the bulb are still intact, but i see it got hot. any ideas? it did work and it should be wired properly as well.

7and7is
04-14-2014, 8:34 PM
any luck clockwork?

LoudFastThrash
04-20-2014, 9:11 PM
Anyone know of hand controls that'll fit my 88 sporty if I change over to 1" bars?

Clockwork444
04-20-2014, 10:40 PM
any luck clockwork?

i cleaned up the mount more, added a ground, and a new bulb caked in di-electic grease. rode a while and it seems ok, but i still have low voltage to all the accessories going to the rear. everything is working ok i put 25 miles on it with no probs.

jyx
05-01-2014, 11:45 AM
hello!
a little question all the way from sweden, i have a -98 883 mostly stock engine just air and noice. It runs very good but is a bit rough to shift when it gets warmed up, especially 2-3 gear, the belt and tranny chain is correctly adjusted by the book (clymer) any ideas ? I have had 2 sportsters and a buell before and i donīt remember them beeing like this one.
Best regards Mike

Clockwork444
05-01-2014, 12:28 PM
this sounds overly simple, but i would go through the clutch adjustment. if its shifting when its hot, the clutch could be not fully disengaging the driveline and your "almost" slamming it into gear. just make sure you adjust it when warm and not when cold or you wont find anything wrong

jyx
05-04-2014, 9:17 AM
this sounds overly simple, but i would go through the clutch adjustment. if its shifting when its hot, the clutch could be not fully disengaging the driveline and your "almost" slamming it into gear. just make sure you adjust it when warm and not when cold or you wont find anything wrong

nope, tryed that and it is still rough when warm, but thanks anyway.

momjeans
05-11-2014, 7:32 PM
Im trying to get my carb looking more like this .. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CQRIvKGhpB0/UzMNHFAunoI/AAAAAAAAMx4/W9uQWnsOm4E/s1600/Jay_cv.jpg

I see the biltwell carb top, and CV performance choke adapter, but where can i get that choke knob and what not ??

FatChibs
05-15-2014, 12:46 AM
Quick question regarding gas tanks for ironheads, I am looking at THIS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-gallon-peanut-Gas-Tank-Ironhead-/281336098973?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4180f0309d&vxp=mtr) gas tank for my 1976 ironhead, I am have a bit of trouble thinking this one through. I have a stock frame (i need to measure it tonight) but what do those lengths mean with mounting the tank? According to my math the mounting tabs are 15.35 inches apart. Thanks...

Clockwork444
05-15-2014, 10:57 PM
Im trying to get my carb looking more like this .. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CQRIvKGhpB0/UzMNHFAunoI/AAAAAAAAMx4/W9uQWnsOm4E/s1600/Jay_cv.jpg

I see the biltwell carb top, and CV performance choke adapter, but where can i get that choke knob and what not ??

that choke knob comes with the todd's cycle kit. dennis kirk sells them it is about 90$ though.

the breathers he has look like they dont have filters. i strongly suggest using the ones that have filters.

momjeans
05-16-2014, 7:28 PM
that choke knob comes with the todd's cycle kit. dennis kirk sells them it is about 90$ though.

the breathers he has look like they dont have filters. i strongly suggest using the ones that have filters.

My breathers are filtered. Are you referring to this "http://www.jpcycles.com/product/400-0084"

thats a similar, but different knob.

Clockwork444
05-17-2014, 11:53 PM
yeah thats all ive seen similar to what you want. sure looks nice if you ask me

Clockwork444
05-31-2014, 11:57 AM
guys i need a hand. i am jetting my 1200 sporty for paughco upswept drag pipes. no baffles but i am getting snuff or nots in shortly.

the jetting was already done. it had a dynojet kit with the plastic slide, 180 main and 45 pilot. this is what everyone is saying works for them and it is already in there. on accelleration (cracking the throttle hard i would say) it studders pretty bad. i read the plugs and they looked a bit lean so i was going to jet it up. once i took it apart i realized i already had the recommended jetting in it. another thing i noticed was my intake was CAKED with fuel. so it seems that i am lean on the top and rich in the midrange? i cant figure out whats going wrong here. i dont want to jet it lean when the plugs tell me not to, but my intake shouldnt be soaked with fuel like it is? should i leave it alone and put in the snuff or nots and see if it clears up? i really dont think the bike likes these pipes. oh and i had the mixture screw turned a ways out it was at 3 turns. i backed that in to 2.5 turns it seems to do nothing for the idle it idles fine and runs smoothly up top it just has this wicked stutter in the midrange when i get on it hard. ran perfect before with the slip ons


edit: i did some reading and learned that the dynojet kit might have too soft a spring for the slide so i went back to stock on that. seemed to fix the surging. i looked at the jetting and it seems to be where it should be. it is 45 pilot/ 180 main with the dynojet needle. i went from 3.5 turns on the fuel screw in to 2 turns. when i ran it down the road with no filter it seemed alright. i can definately feel the flat spot but i dont have the lollipops in yet. once i put on the filter, it seemed to run a little rough just off idle. again the filter was caked in gas so im wondering if my intake is too restrictive. it is the cheap louvered chrome one from mooneyes. i think i will go to another style they have that is just an end cap so i can expose the whole filter surface, add the lollipops, and ride. the plugs are a little lean looking but not paper white or anything. anyone got any other suggestions? i thought about jetting the pilot back to stock and pulling the needle up with a shim to clean up the bottom end??? i do have a little further in to go with the fuel screw so maybe thats not necessary.

7and7is
06-02-2014, 9:16 PM
Here is a good video for the CV, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTPPP8jkje4

(cracking the throttle hard i would say) it studders pretty bad.

Is your accelerator pump working correctly? Could have a bad diaphragm, personally I have a 48 pilot and a 175 main, also did the accelerator pump mod, and the vacuum piston mod in the video (if your accelerator pump is working correctly these mods should help with the "studder"), idle mixture at 2 & 1/4 turns, with SE air cleaner, V&H long shots with lolly pops, and she runs like a raped ape.

Clockwork444
06-03-2014, 8:17 AM
the lollipops and stock slide spring fixed the problem, along with leaning the fuel screw a little. the problem occurred after i put on the paughco pipes, everything was perfect before that, so i rule out any failures in the carb itself. i have always had a little hiccup though when downshifting which comes and goes periodically but never causes a big problem. i think the rich midrange and surging was happening with the other pipes but the backpressure prevented the reversion at those rpms so it was rich but never studdered or anything. ill give the video a look as i still want to fine tune this thing to make sure it's proper (probably with a dyno session). thanks for the reply!

dexxx
06-12-2014, 7:40 PM
48950

anyone know what bolt on this is
thanks

LoudFastThrash
07-03-2014, 2:29 PM
Carb acting up, dumping gas out the overflow. Took it apart and cleaned it up with some carb clean. Turned out a bug got inside. Cleaned it all up and put it back together with no luck. Float works smoothly but I did notice a faint horizontal line around the float needle where it rests in the seat. Question is do I need a rebuild kit? Is it still just dirty maybe inside? It will move up and down with the float but sticks with just a slight hesitation when opening.

Clockwork444
07-05-2014, 10:42 AM
replace the needle and seat. its leaking by

Clockwork444
07-05-2014, 11:49 PM
after jetting my bike and changing the pipes i still have a periodic carb "fart" on downshifting. thats the only time it does it and randomly it will do it. sounds like a "katuch" sound like my bike is overly lean or rich. i think the jetting is 185/45 (whatever is recommended for sportys with drag pipes) with upswept goose cut pipes and a mooneyes intake with K&N filter element. idle screw is 2 turns out and the pipes have snuff or nots in them for backpressure (like lollipops) the slide spring is stock (swapped back to it from the dynojet one) and the diapragm is new. everything seems in order as far as i can see, and it runs good and pulls hard the plugs read alright, it just seems like it makes a little "fart" when i downshift. any ideas what that might be?

LoudFastThrash
07-07-2014, 4:24 PM
Carb is running good now. Rebuild kit was only 20 bucks to boot!

CoLoNpEe
07-08-2014, 9:41 AM
after jetting my bike and changing the pipes i still have a periodic carb "fart" on downshifting. thats the only time it does it and randomly it will do it. sounds like a "katuch" sound like my bike is overly lean or rich. i think the jetting is 185/45 (whatever is recommended for sportys with drag pipes) with upswept goose cut pipes and a mooneyes intake with K&N filter element. idle screw is 2 turns out and the pipes have snuff or nots in them for backpressure (like lollipops) the slide spring is stock (swapped back to it from the dynojet one) and the diapragm is new. everything seems in order as far as i can see, and it runs good and pulls hard the plugs read alright, it just seems like it makes a little "fart" when i downshift. any ideas what that might be?

What do you have for a petcock? Mine was doing that, had that stock diaphragm petcock, and with age they stick and prevent full flow of fuel. I reversed the spring and popped off the o-ring and voila! no more farting. bike loves it and tells me: "Hey! I got fuel now!" Really responsive...

Clockwork444
07-08-2014, 11:15 AM
it is a stock diaphragm petcock also. did you pull the whole petcock off or just the diaphragm part?

CoLoNpEe
07-09-2014, 10:09 AM
I took the tank off then the petcock so I wouldnt have a mess, my tank was 1/2 full at the time, just undo the four screws on the backside, pluck the o-ring off and put the spring on that side... keep the vacuum lines on though to completely open it! Then you need to get in the shutting off the fuel habit...

TwoLaneFever
07-23-2014, 7:01 PM
48950

anyone know what bolt on this is
thanks
sporty specialties has them ,,like what the k models would use,,

LoudFastThrash
07-27-2014, 3:25 PM
In a world of trouble now. Was planning a weekend trip to my hometown, an hour outside of the city my bike started acting up. Electrical out of nowhere would shut down. If I flick the killswitch and restart it it usually comes back on but not always. Took me all day to try and get back to town ended up 20 minutes away from home on the highway and needed to get picked up, it wouldn't stay running for half a minute at a time. I don't even really know how to check my ignition system other than if wires are disco'd. Tips tricks and pointers?

LoudFastThrash
07-28-2014, 10:43 AM
Battery terminals are tight, can't find any disco'd wires. Gonna put some new plugs in cause they're pretty old but other than that I'm stumped.

Clockwork444
07-28-2014, 2:28 PM
are your bars internally wired?

LoudFastThrash
07-29-2014, 12:57 PM
Nah externally wired. It was having a hard time firing on start up too and now it's having a hard time turning over. (clickclickclickclick)

FatChibs
07-29-2014, 3:33 PM
it doesn't take much to kill a battery, and rapid clicking = weak ass battery

hankhill
07-30-2014, 7:13 AM
check your coil. My bike would run till it got hot, get all choppy then die like it wasnt getting gas or something. Then when it cooled down would run for a minute then die. took my carb apart 3 times on the side of the road just to find that it was the fucking coil.

AusAndrew
09-01-2014, 4:27 AM
Can I just lop off this steering lock, lock loop thing and grind down the big mounting block?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v229/Rotornut/4EC387F8-8FE9-41F3-BF9A-A8A3E9F3BE21_zpsljtuini7.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/Rotornut/media/4EC387F8-8FE9-41F3-BF9A-A8A3E9F3BE21_zpsljtuini7.jpg.html)

hankhill
09-02-2014, 8:29 PM
Yes. But you'll have a hole looking in on your stem. At least that's my experience on my 650.

JohnM
09-29-2014, 11:02 AM
02 sportster
Cleaned up handle bars stock housings are gone. I need to figure something out for the brake light switch. Thanks.

goofyfoot2001
09-29-2014, 11:21 AM
any ideas on how to get one of the bolts off on the primary chain view hole on a 95 1200. Sure it's the same on all of them. WITHOUT stripping the thing. I've tried an impact driver but again afraid to strip it.

Robohead
09-29-2014, 11:45 AM
@JohnM

You can use a banjo bolt brake switch right at the front brake cylinder. That's what I did. Lowbrow (http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p2746/buy/m-c-parts/electrical-amp-wiring/harley-davidson/switches/cycle-standard-banjo-bolt-brake-switch-3-8-quot-24/) sells them.

DcReckless
12-08-2014, 4:19 PM
So I'm getting a 99 sportster to do a Crazy Orange type thing with and its my first bike. I'm trying to figure out what this bracket is and how to cut it off without F-ing up the frame.

7and7is
12-08-2014, 8:21 PM
What bracket?

DcReckless
12-09-2014, 10:04 AM
i figured it out, its a long exhaust bracket the extend from below the transmission mount plate to near the rear tire54248

DcReckless
12-11-2014, 12:26 AM
More stupid questions... can i cut the triangle shaped plate that the the gas tank from mount threads thru off the frame?
will this cause it to buckle?

nateridesbikes
12-11-2014, 12:46 AM
More stupid questions... can i cut the triangle shaped plate that the the gas tank from mount threads thru off the frame?
will this cause it to buckle?

I assume youre talking about the neck gusset. Short answer is yes you ca cut it off. I just hope you have a lot of cut off wheels and grind discs. What a nightmare.

look at this
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27692

DcReckless
12-11-2014, 8:54 AM
Thanks Nater

FallingRgr
12-29-2014, 6:51 PM
Question,
I've got a Led Sled Oil tank with the fittings that they sell for it as well. The feed, return, and vent fittings are all the same size. Issue is The vent hose is too small, and the return and feed hoses are too large. So would it be wrong to swap out the fittings on the pump and the one for the vent for ones that match the fittings I already have on my tank? What it boils down to is running smaller line for feed/return, and a slightly bigger vent line. I don't have the measurements right now but the difference is 1/6 for the ID

jyx
01-02-2015, 8:06 AM
Hello
sportster and buell rider from sweden need a little help. I have found ONE ! company that sell this part http://www.buellsterparts.com/product.sc?productId=1316 but they do not ship to sweden and they donīt even return mail questions, i really need those to put my buell back together and was wondering if some one could do me a favour and get a set of them and ship to sweden ? or if someone knows about some other store that might still have a set for sale and would be able to ship in my direction ?
//Mike

Gestalt
01-02-2015, 8:55 AM
Change the front mount bracket on the seat

Will this work also for putting pre 2003 seats on a 2005? I've been having the hardest time finding seats I like. Are front mount bracket adapters available?

ChrisFinn22
02-19-2015, 3:58 PM
In a world of trouble now. Was planning a weekend trip to my hometown, an hour outside of the city my bike started acting up. Electrical out of nowhere would shut down. If I flick the killswitch and restart it it usually comes back on but not always. Took me all day to try and get back to town ended up 20 minutes away from home on the highway and needed to get picked up, it wouldn't stay running for half a minute at a time. I don't even really know how to check my ignition system other than if wires are disco'd. Tips tricks and pointers?

This exact thing happened to me. Its your ground wire to your ignition. There is a black wire under the tank that spilts sometimes and that is it hah.

PeterGranite
03-03-2015, 11:19 PM
It would be much easier to just get different fittings for the oil tank itself. I had this same problem on my 04 chopper I'm building. The threads for the tank is 1/4" NPT, it was really hard to find the sizes around town.. but online solved that problem. Two of them are 3/8" and one is 1/4" (obviously all with 1/4" NPT threads Not sure if I'm too late but hopefully this helps.

Newbe21
03-05-2015, 11:48 PM
Im sure someone has asked this already but I couldn't find it.

Can someone explain to me the easiest way to be able to put a 180 rear tire on my 2001 custom sportster.

DcReckless
04-03-2015, 8:59 PM
so I bought a 99 1200 custom it came with stage 1 air cleaner and exhaust with jetted carb I removed the slip on exhaust and putting some drag pipes, also putting on a Mooneyes louvered air cleaner do I need to rejet?

turk33
04-13-2015, 8:06 PM
got these wheels because I think they where a good deal... not even sure what ill have to do to make these fit on my 10' sportster. Could anyone tell me what id have to do? Front is a 21in off a wide glide, rear is off a knucklehead.

**Looks like this has been asked a thousand times, and no, a 21in wideglide wont fit on my sportster forks.. I suck.

would I be able to replace the hub on the front rim and use it?

CM
04-15-2015, 8:59 AM
Will sportster 39mm forks bolt straight up with 1991 FXRS-CONV sliders? Are they interchangeable as long as they are 39mm?

squeege
04-15-2015, 12:07 PM
got these wheels because I think they where a good deal... not even sure what ill have to do to make these fit on my 10' sportster. Could anyone tell me what id have to do? Front is a 21in off a wide glide, rear is off a knucklehead.

**Looks like this has been asked a thousand times, and no, a 21in wideglide wont fit on my sportster forks.. I suck.

would I be able to replace the hub on the front rim and use it?

turk33 it would probably be cheaper just to sell the wideglide set up and pick up a 21inch for your front end. I picked up mine with a floating rotor and brand new tire 100 bucks.

goofyfoot2001
04-15-2015, 1:10 PM
Im wondering if anyone can help me. I have an 89 sportster 883 when i turn my bike off the bike chugs like its dying but wont completely shut off until i disconnect the power line to the coil. Bad ground?

You've got a bad bike there. I'll give you a hundred dollars for salvage. Or maybe try premium gas.

squeege
04-15-2015, 1:22 PM
You've got a bad bike there. I'll give you a hundred dollars for salvage. Or maybe try premium gas.

Haha I was thinking it might be the flux capacitor...

Cisco726
04-21-2015, 9:24 PM
Random fact if anyone needs it. Not sure how many years this is good for but on an 05 sportster the primary screws(torx) are 1/4-20x 5/8. Those Torx t27 screws are shit so I replaced them with some Allen heads and had to scour the net for the right size cause my dumbass forgot the damn Torx screws at home.

dannygr89
04-22-2015, 3:13 AM
Quick question I have a 87 sportster 1100 the forks are 35mm and I want to run 6 over but can't find a single thing except ironhead ones 75-86 or 84 now there 35mm will they still work or is there some kind of chsnge made during these years

Cisco726
04-22-2015, 11:43 AM
Quick question I have a 87 sportster 1100 the forks are 35mm and I want to run 6 over but can't find a single thing except ironhead ones 75-86 or 84 now there 35mm will they still work or is there some kind of chsnge made during these years

Found this, not sure if it's what you're looking for-
http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/enthusiasts/catalog_item_detail.asp?catalog=5181&levelcode=0&product=48662&cattype=&ProductCategoryCode=

goofyfoot2001
04-22-2015, 11:44 AM
Random fact if anyone needs it. Not sure how many years this is good for but on an 05 sportster the primary screws(torx) are 1/4-20x 5/8. Those Torx t27 screws are shit so I replaced them with some Allen heads and had to scour the net for the right size cause my dumbass forgot the damn Torx screws at home.

Sure they aren't 1/4 -28? Everything is like 28 with these dipwads.

dannygr89
04-22-2015, 7:28 PM
Found this, not sure if it's what you're looking for-
http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/enthusiasts/catalog_item_detail.asp?catalog=5181&levelcode=0&product=48662&cattype=&ProductCategoryCode=

Thanks this is exactly what I needed

Cisco726
04-23-2015, 11:39 AM
Sure they aren't 1/4 -28? Everything is like 28 with these dipwads.

Not 100%, but that's the info I found on another forum and when I compared them they looked the same except they're not made of cheese and Allen heads.

slum
04-26-2015, 1:24 PM
So I'm having problems with getting a good connection on my negative battery cable post. It's an 03 1200. I had to replace the battery cables and it's acting up again. So two questions. When I did it the first time I drained the oil and moved the oil tank out of the way. It worked but was kind of a pain in the ass. Is there a better way to go about getting to to the bolt or am I going to have to do it again. Second I was told I could put loc tite on the threads just keep it away from the terminal and that should keep it in place without messing with the connection. Is that correct or should I do something else?

BrokenSprocketGarage
04-26-2015, 1:45 PM
So I'm having problems with getting a good connection on my negative battery cable post. It's an 03 1200. I had to replace the battery cables and it's acting up again. So two questions. When I did it the first time I drained the oil and moved the oil tank out of the way. It worked but was kind of a pain in the ass. Is there a better way to go about getting to to the bolt or am I going to have to do it again. Second I was told I could put loc tite on the threads just keep it away from the terminal and that should keep it in place without messing with the connection. Is that correct or should I do something else?

You can go from battery negative to ANY frame connection for your chassis ground. Any case bolt, motor mount etc. make sure to use star or lock washers, remove any paint, chrome, or powder coat. Yes you can use Loctite.
Also common to have a bad positive cable in that vintage. Give your positive cables a good tug at BOTH terminal ends to ensure they are fully crimped and not all rotted out.

slum
04-26-2015, 3:53 PM
You can go from battery negative to ANY frame connection for your chassis ground. Any case bolt, motor mount etc. make sure to use star or lock washers, remove any paint, chrome, or powder coat. Yes you can use Loctite.
Also common to have a bad positive cable in that vintage. Give your positive cables a good tug at BOTH terminal ends to ensure they are fully crimped and not all rotted out.

I tried going to a couple different places. Including getting rid of any paint and shit that might affect it and couldn't seem to get anything to work for more then a short trip before i'd have to tighten it back up again. The positive was rotted out and was the originally problem. I replaced both cables and have sense been having problems with the negative so I figured I'd just put it back where it came from and be done with it. Which it what I did but it came loose again. I just ordered a longer cable for the negative because the set I bought I think is part of the problem. There was no slack what so ever. I tried going the auto zone route but wasn't really happy with the results. So the new cable should be here Thursday and I'm going to change it out then and just put a dab of loc tite on it. Thanks for the quick response and the advice.

homewrecker
04-27-2015, 1:10 PM
Not 100%, but that's the info I found on another forum and when I compared them they looked the se except they're not made of cheese and Allen heads.

they are 1/4-20 (coarse thread) anything going into aluminum is always coarse thread. 1/4-28 would be fine thread and only be used when they are threading into steel or a nut, fine threads in aluminum will strip very easy.

nickey
05-18-2015, 12:39 AM
so I bought a 99 1200 custom it came with stage 1 air cleaner and exhaust with jetted carb I removed the slip on exhaust and putting some drag pipes, also putting on a Mooneyes louvered air cleaner do I need to rejet?

For sure no expert here, but I think if you put drag pipes on you will need to rejet. Read a tiny amount on drag pipes and after what I read I changed my mind. They look tits, but you lose everything but top end power.

I am interested in the moon eyes louvered a/c though and was wondering same thing about whether I'd have to rejet or not from stock a/c

hillakilla
05-20-2015, 8:51 AM
What are people doing for stock height or higher front suspension?

I have the burly lowering kit. lowered about 2". I want to go back to stock height, and wondering what the best option is. just stick a longer spacer in there? get newer springs? has anybody tried the intiminator or race tech emulators or whatever they are called? Cartridges?

i'm looking to be around the $250 price range if possible.

ProfessorKaos
06-05-2015, 7:13 AM
Did a little searching with mixed results, wondering how tall of a set of bars I can go with before having to extended cables/wires on my 95 XL.

nomoney
06-05-2015, 7:54 PM
79 Sportster. Do i need to run a top motor mount or will i be fine without it? Bike was assembled from cardboard boxes and p.o. removed the tab

starforbrian
06-15-2015, 7:38 PM
79 Sportster. Do i need to run a top motor mount or will i be fine without it? Bike was assembled from cardboard boxes and p.o. removed the tab

Considering it's solid-mount to the frame I most certainly would just for peace of mind.

mattressking
06-16-2015, 7:42 AM
Did a little searching with mixed results, wondering how tall of a set of bars I can go with before having to extended cables/wires on my 95 XL.

I just recently went through this and I can give you my results. I built some bars that have an 11" rise and used the stock risers which let me use the stock throttle cable, however I went with a 40" brake line and 60" clutch cable. The clutch cable was JUST long enough since they are so burly.

ProfessorKaos
06-17-2015, 4:35 PM
Thanks mattress. I'm ordering a set of Frisco bars this week and it looks like I shouldn't have any issues leaving everything else factory for now.



I have the burly lowering kit. lowered about 2". I want to go back to stock height, and wondering what the best option is. just stick a longer spacer in there?

If you don't mind me asking why are you going back to stock height? I was thinking about lowering the rear of mine but am curious as to how it will ride with a passenger.

hillakilla
06-18-2015, 1:31 PM
i lowered the front and rear with the burly slammer shocks and fork lowering kit, and just wasn't happy with the ride and ground clearance, so i'm going back, but no longer have the original springs.

nickdoesntknowjack
06-22-2015, 1:22 PM
Quick question: 2007 XL 1200c
I recently converted EFI to carbed. Thunderheart ignition. Custom wiring harness.( I know. I know. Some hate it. Some love it. I just had an EFI bike and laid it down. It was too much to fix all the fucking computers and couldn't afford another bike. so I swapped it.) I went from a small ride, about 50 miles, last weekend. Fired right up now problem. Ran like a dream. Then when this weekend came around it wont start. It just backfires. I know its running rich. Took a look at my spark plugs and there were black. Not terribly black. But darker than what I would like. Check my carb. Seems all good. Brand new battery also. Now every time I try to start it it just backfires and carb farts. Any suggestions?

DikMustard
06-30-2015, 3:16 PM
61532
Was fixn to change my primary fluid, what tool is this? Names? Part #s?
Bike is a 90 sporty 4 speed

sportyfiend88
07-02-2015, 12:34 PM
hey man, Lowbrow has a pretty good selection of bolt on hardtails for Sportys. Haifley Bros make an incredible WELD on hardtail kit that is by far the best one i've seen.

PEACE

nofendertom
07-03-2015, 9:33 AM
looks like a special HD tool (High Dollar)---you could take a piece of stock---cut it to fit the widest part of the slot and about 6in's long
and turn it with a crescent wrench---making your own tool.

monkeyboy
07-03-2015, 1:05 PM
If I remember right, you should be able to fit a 1/2 inch socket drive in the center square and back it out.

idotheoobydooby
07-13-2015, 7:32 PM
Question,

Im running an S&S super B carb on my 68' XLH. What I'm confused about is the fact that when i twist my throttle fuel doesn't come up from the inlet into the carb. How am i supposed to create a vacuum so that it works ?

Salty
07-20-2015, 2:55 PM
61532
Was fixn to change my primary fluid, what tool is this? Names? Part #s?
Bike is a 90 sporty 4 speed

1/2inch socket wrench.

tanner
08-25-2015, 5:49 AM
Hey guys. Completely lost. Seems to be the case usually.
I just put on zombie performance's short, narrow forward bend t bars on my 02. After setting everything up and running one throttle cable in a new throttle assembly, it seems like there's no adjusting the throttle cable. Idle gets to low, or I turn the bars to the right and the throttle engages. Shorter cables? I'm an asshole? If someone can help me get back on the road with an answer that'd be awesome.63164

Salty
08-25-2015, 9:27 AM
Shorter cables? I'm an asshole? If someone can help me get back on the road with an answer that'd be awesome.63164

Seeing as the second cable, which i hope is the one you removed, is the idle cable, that might be an issue. Try routing the throttle cable differently, flip the guides? zip ties? or get longer cables. When you turn the bars its pulling the cable somewhere. Mine does it as well with extended cables but not too bad.

In that photo i cant seem to see where your throttle cable is routed...

tanner
08-25-2015, 9:51 AM
Seeing as the second cable, which i hope is the one you removed, is the idle cable, that might be an issue. Try routing the throttle cable differently, flip the guides? zip ties? or get longer cables. When you turn the bars its pulling the cable somewhere. Mine does it as well with extended cables but not too bad.

In that photo i cant seem to see where your throttle cable is routed...

It's actually not routed in that picture, that was for the bar height reference. my situation is strange. the cables too long. it flexes out when the bars are turned right which pulls the throttle open. TO the left is no issue. i tried adjusting the throttle for 2 hours with no avail. :banghead:

Salty
08-25-2015, 4:08 PM
having a two cable, push pull system would alleviate that problem im 90% sure.

7and7is
08-26-2015, 3:13 PM
It's actually not routed in that picture, that was for the bar height reference. my situation is strange. the cables too long. it flexes out when the bars are turned right which pulls the throttle open. TO the left is no issue. i tried adjusting the throttle for 2 hours with no avail. :banghead:

With one cable all you are really adjusting is were the cam hits the cam stop, ie how far your butterfly opens in the carb when you twist the throttle, with out an idle cable the spring on the carb snaps the throttle back into position, assuming you have the cable installed properly (Post a pic of cable from throttle to carb) with the engine off, loosen the jam nut, on the cable, back it off as far as it will go, then turn the adjuster all the way to the jam nut, then twist the throttle while looking at your carb, the cam (For lack of a better word) should move upward and make contact with the cam stop (ie, butterfly wide open) when you let go of the throttle it should snap back if the spring on the carb is not broke (If it does not snap back either the spring is broke are you are not in the right slot), if there feels like a lot of slop in the cable at WOT back the adjuster while holding the throttle wide open, as you are backing off the adjuster at some point the cam will start moving away from the cam stop, at that point stop and adjust back so that the cam is touching the cam stop (ie butterfly wide open) then tighten the jam nut, if this does not work take that pic and post it.

tanner
08-28-2015, 6:44 AM
With one cable all you are really adjusting is were the cam hits the cam stop, ie how far your butterfly opens in the carb when you twist the throttle, with out an idle cable the spring on the carb snaps the throttle back into position, assuming you have the cable installed properly (Post a pic of cable from throttle to carb) with the engine off, loosen the jam nut, on the cable, back it off as far as it will go, then turn the adjuster all the way to the jam nut, then twist the throttle while looking at your carb, the cam (For lack of a better word) should move upward and make contact with the cam stop (ie, butterfly wide open) when you let go of the throttle it should snap back if the spring on the carb is not broke (If it does not snap back either the spring is broke are you are not in the right slot), if there feels like a lot of slop in the cable at WOT back the adjuster while holding the throttle wide open, as you are backing off the adjuster at some point the cam will start moving away from the cam stop, at that point stop and adjust back so that the cam is touching the cam stop (ie butterfly wide open) then tighten the jam nut, if this does not work take that pic and post it.

Thanks for taking your time to write out that explanation man, I really appreciate it. I had someone else look at it, and all that had to be done was re route the throttle cable so it couldn't move. We put it from the carb, through the front tank mount, to throttle and I've had zero problems.

7and7is
08-28-2015, 8:17 AM
Not a problem glad you got it sorted.

nickey
09-13-2015, 4:55 PM
so this might be a total noob question, but i need other's help.

just put some mids on my 2002 883 custom. I went to take the front lower motor mount/forward peg mounts off (so I can sell them) and replace them with the regular motor mounts. however, the motor mount on the left side doesn't meet the frame. looks like the mount needs more of a bend? or theres supposed to be a spacer in between?

I tried searching for this on the interwebs but came up empty. like I said, I know this is such a simple noob thing, but was wondering if i'm doing something wrong? or if its safe to just use a spacer between the frame and motor mount? any help appreciated!

hope that made sense and heres some pics:
6378063781

loddytoddy
09-14-2015, 9:28 AM
mine has a big spacer behind the forward mounts.

nickey
09-14-2015, 4:34 PM
mine has a big spacer behind the forward mounts.

Thanks loddy! I hadn't seen this mentioned anywhere! So now i'm on the hunt for this spacer I guess. Crazy it's not included with any of the front lower motor mount sets you can buy! I wonder if stacked washers would work alright?

Salty
09-14-2015, 5:32 PM
I wonder if stacked washers would work alright?

Washers can get you by in a pinch but I would never recommend running them as a spacer for any extended amount of time.

nickey
09-15-2015, 7:38 AM
Washers can get you by in a pinch but I would never recommend running them as a spacer for any extended amount of time.

Awesome! Thank you. So is there a part number for the spacer? What are other people using? Seems this would be included in motor mount kits.

loddytoddy
09-15-2015, 7:49 AM
looks like your kit the mounting plate has that bend in it to make up for the spacer.
is yours aftermarket?
I had to leave my forward mounts on when I went back to the mids that were included with the bike..

nickey
09-15-2015, 7:55 AM
looks like your kit the mounting plate has that bend in it to make up for the spacer.
is yours aftermarket?
I had to leave my forward mounts on when I went back to the mids that were included with the bike..

My forwards were on the bike when I bought it, I believe they are from the factory. The mids I ordered used from ebay and had the mounts included.

nickey
09-21-2015, 8:19 PM
Found some spacers that worked perfectly. Thanks for the replies!

jmattsen
09-23-2015, 9:11 PM
As far as aftermarket air cleaners go, are they all pretty much the same? Will i really notice a difference between a $150 cleaner and a $400 cleaner? And later on down the road i plan on doing cams, bigbore and headwork, will a intake that isnt $400 hold the bike back?

Edit: everyone seems to like the NHRS hurricane ones so that seems like the winner

loddytoddy
10-06-2015, 2:08 PM
1997 PULLEY ON A 1980 IRONHEAD WHEEL.
looks like it'll bolt on and go. just double checking...
any thoughts?

Skrone
04-06-2016, 7:33 PM
ANOTHER hard tail question.... I have a 2016 883 Iron, and I know that led sled makes a hard tail kit, but the drop seat kit specifically says that it only fits up to 2003. The Haifley bros. kit has exactly what I would want, but it also only fits up to 2003. I don't mind having to fabricate stuff, but being a beginner, I really don't want to mess around too much when it comes to my frame on this bike. Anyone know if there is a drop seat hard tail kit out there that fits a 2004+ sportster? NO bolt on kits...those look
awful.

Down
09-30-2016, 2:29 AM
So I just got my first Sporty, a 1989 883 Evo 4-speed. I know nothing about this bike. It's bobbed and it's ugly. The PO, my kid brother, had this thing on a dyno this past summer and it made 50hp on the wheel. That sounds reasonable for a piped, jetted and a performance filter swapped 883. The thing that bothers me is it runs not so good and still makes that sort of power, why? Bogs on low-mid RPM's and then goes for a while before bogging out again. 50whp just sounds like a bit too much on an 883 that runs bad, right? Or does it? How much power loss can a little bit of bog do?

godpuncher
09-30-2016, 3:37 PM
Tough to say exactly, but it could still be the mix (even though it has been jetted), possibly timing, or valves.

whisky
10-15-2016, 4:13 AM
I'm hardtailing my 02 Sporty, looking at different oil tank options, doe's the vent HAVE to return to the tank, or can I stick a filter on it?
I have an old brit oil tank with just an out and return...

BigRod13
12-02-2016, 7:08 PM
Buying steel for my winter project. Anyone know the thickness of the tubing used in the rubbermount frames? 3" backbone, 1 3/8" downtubes right? I'd measure, but i haven't cut it up yet.

Fruttolo
01-23-2017, 9:11 AM
Stupid question

I switched from my oem 21mm petcock to an old style 1/4" one, with a custom turned non-conical bung welded to the tank. Now I can't for the life of me get this POS to seal. I used white teflon sealing tape, the one you use for diesel and gas pipes, but it doesn't seal. Keeps gas in for 2-3 hours, then starts leaking a bit.
What can I use to seal it? Maybe something liquid, like insta-gasket paste? Or ptfe gel?