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View Full Version : The Ultimate Sportster Question Thread. To the MAX!



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nastycitydago
05-29-2013, 10:29 AM
I have 175 in mine and put two washer with it. Runs good no hiccups. I forget how many turns though

audioslave
05-29-2013, 3:09 PM
Well, need to do something about my tank as the one that sits on the bike now looks like shit.

The plan is the smaller sportster peanut 2.5 gallon, not sure about the paint yet though.

Made a pdf-template you can download here: http://mellqvist.org/foto/sportster/sportstertank.psd (10.3mb) if you want to try something your self.

As it is now..
http://mellqvist.org/foto/sportster/sport2.jpg

http://mellqvist.org/foto/sportster/sport1.jpg

http://mellqvist.org/foto/sportster/sport3.jpg

Well, this is my idea so far, any opinions or suggestions?

007
05-29-2013, 3:59 PM
so, when i get the 170 main, i should re-install the cv needle and any washers? would replacing the coil with a newer/better one help anything at all?

I would leave the needle you have in there now and put the 170 main in. You can always try the other needle later if you feel a reason to. Remember when tuning to only make one change at a time to see what difference something makes. If you make a bunch of changes at once, you never now what made the difference.

I wouldn't replace the coil unless something is wrong with it.

ercle69
05-29-2013, 4:02 PM
gotcha, ill just do the jet. it was brought to my attention by a local grey beard that the gas cap may be clogged, especially since it is old and beat to hell. ill change it too, he said it may help with the cutting out.

IronheadVic
05-29-2013, 6:46 PM
cool app.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1366&bih=650&q=motorcycle+paint+jobs&oq=motorcycle+paint+jobs&gs_l=img.3...2069.7589.0.7701.31.21.1.9.2.0.309.14 50.9j4j0j1.14.0...0.0...1ac.1.15.img.C-IEA1_YaEk#hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=chopper+paint+jobs&oq=chopper+paint&gs_l=img.3.0.0l5j0i5l5.2069.3937.0.7131.13.13.0.0. 0.0.162.1255.5j7.12.0...0.0...1c.1.15.img.4W5m921t E-Q&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.47244034,d.aWc&fp=eb75056e71a0631d&biw=1366&bih=650

rick666
05-29-2013, 9:35 PM
well Im running a stock 16" mag that was from the original bike...Im waiting for a new axle so everything fits the way it needs to...once I get everything where it needs to be I can give a bit more info to run with

audioslave
05-30-2013, 3:47 AM
Wow, that's awesome.

Just got inspired to take a loan and buy one of them sick ass bobbers from OCC.

Thanks dude, you're great.

53rigid
05-30-2013, 5:24 AM
the only way to tell is get that wheel centered in the frame and use a straight edge to see how it lines up front to back on the sprockets.

IronheadVic
05-30-2013, 6:21 AM
I scrolled that entire first page of images. I 'no shit' counted at least 37 images that I would consider 'Chop Cult Appropriate', whatever that is.

Doing it yourself or paying someone? Have you painted before or not? How deep are your pockets?

Solid color, flames, scallops, lace, geometric patters, its all there. Candies, gold leaf, pearls...

Yes there are OCC bikes in there, just have to sift through it.

Of the three you posted, I like the one with the white graphics, not that it matters.

nastycitydago
05-31-2013, 7:13 PM
hey everyone. I just installed some licks shocks on my sporty. I took it for a test ride , and when I have to turn , the rear wheel seems like it wobbles... I did not have that wobble before with the stock shocks. could it be preload? any help is appreciated!!

jasonwm
06-03-2013, 8:07 AM
I am messing with an 81 iron head. it turns over, but just wont start. rebuilt the starter solenoid, took carb apart and cleaned it, new battery, plugs look good.
it has an S&S super b carb, which i know nothing about. when trying to start the bike and having the throttle open, there is no fuel coming into the carb. the float bowl is filled up, but stopping there. everything is cleaned and nothing is clogged. any suggestions on what to do?

we used starting fluid to try to get it going, and it kind of started, but died right away.

thanks for any help.

junkyardxl
06-03-2013, 11:01 AM
I am messing with an 81 iron head. it turns over, but just wont start. rebuilt the starter solenoid, took carb apart and cleaned it, new battery, plugs look good.
it has an S&S super b carb, which i know nothing about. when trying to start the bike and having the throttle open, there is no fuel coming into the carb. the float bowl is filled up, but stopping there. everything is cleaned and nothing is clogged. any suggestions on what to do?

we used starting fluid to try to get it going, and it kind of started, but died right away.

thanks for any help.

Intake leak would be my guess.

nastycitydago
06-04-2013, 8:17 PM
Anyone have pics of em? What's the quality of em? Are there better options around the same price range for weld on hardtails??

usmc50lx
06-04-2013, 8:24 PM
David Bird.....Do it and don't look back....

tobiism
06-04-2013, 8:26 PM
I helped my buddy Mike put one on his evo sporty. It was off quite a bit and we had to cut the tail to get it to line up. I would not recommend them.

Rocko
06-04-2013, 8:30 PM
Db for sure....great if u don't mind a wait

vnygra
06-04-2013, 8:45 PM
Put one on a shovel. (It was Santee, but I believe they are the same thing) Didn't fit well at all. Had to regrind the axel blocks and take an inch or two out from the bottom rails.

IronheadVic
06-05-2013, 7:46 AM
I had a Santee Bolt on that didn't line up well, had to cut it up and replace some tubing and welded it on.

My next tail will come from one of two places......Elswick Cycles or David Bird....with both you can choose stretch and drop.

SewerRob
06-05-2013, 8:02 AM
I went with Road 6 Custom's tail, couldn't be happier.

http://www.road6customs.com/

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn237/03wrxer/IMG_0092.jpg (http://s305.photobucket.com/user/03wrxer/media/IMG_0092.jpg.html)

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn237/03wrxer/image_zps92ed08ad.jpg (http://s305.photobucket.com/user/03wrxer/media/image_zps92ed08ad.jpg.html)

blackout
06-05-2013, 8:21 AM
I have the v-twin hard tail and I'm happy with it. Mine didn't require much to make it work right the fit was good we just wanted to add some safety features. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/05/3u6avu8a.jpg

Now mine is a 86 sportster 1100 and mine was okay. As for a buddy of mine with a 09 nightster he went with a v-twin one as well and his was way off. Had to heat the lower half and bend them in place it was just way way off. It seems to be a hit or miss with them. The materials they use are just as good as the David bird hard tails but since they are made in bulk and in china they tend to not fit right every time and might require some work to make it fit.

Evidence
06-05-2013, 8:44 AM
david bird.....do it and don't look back....

+1000

Blackbetty
06-05-2013, 8:48 AM
The bird tails are nice but don't really cut it for short chops since they're only offered in 4" stretch or more.

Check out 47 fabrication, sweet tail that's super high quality. Has a big twin look if that's what your into. Also has that S shaped seat tube for easy oil tank fitment. But going this route you're pretty much spending what you would on a full frame, I believe they're $700+

I recently got the led sled and it's super beefy, but I only discovered they build these with the backbone slightly off center. I do like the lines on this tail best. I have one sitting on the bench that I'll probably use if I can learn to ignore the weird backbone.

jasonwm
06-05-2013, 9:55 AM
the gasket between the carb and the manifold looks good.

GermanG
06-05-2013, 10:52 AM
The leak would be between manifold and cylinder head. The manifold has two rubberband gasket to the front and rear cylinder head. They are held in place by two clamps that press the rubberbands round the manifold and cylinder head flanges to seal the inlet. If they are old and or hardend and cracked the engine does not pull air thru the carb but thru these cracks and therefore can not pull petrol thru the jets. It is also very important to have a strong carb support bracket to hold the carb in place. The carb has to be in a right angle to the engine.
I would check those rubberband. The super B does not have a choke, only an enricher. If you hold your hand over the inlet with air cleaner removed you can creat low pressure in the carb when the engine is turning and enrich mixture.
Im sure you checked for spark and it is there. But is the ignition timed right? Good luck!

jasonwm
06-05-2013, 12:48 PM
thanks. I will check this stuff when i get home.

nastycitydago
06-05-2013, 3:46 PM
Sell me the led sled:P

I'm ordering the DB hardtail. Don't really have the cash to buy a whole kit , but I do have the time to buy piece by piece! Thanks for the input!!!

HM0125
06-06-2013, 10:04 PM
trying to finally move up to a harley. not too sure on the value of them though. i found one on CL that seems legit. should i jump on it, shoot an offer or keep looking? bike has been for sale since march. the price went from $4500 to $4300. what would you guys offer? thanks for any advice.

http://i.imgur.com/N3qdQ4H.png


Don't miss out on the great deal! 2000 Harley Davidson Sportster 883 with only 5015 miles. Runs great, looks great, Saddle Bags, Screaming Eagle Pipes, Easy Clutch! I am the 2nd owner of this great bike!

concrete72
06-07-2013, 8:26 AM
trying to finally move up to a harley. not too sure on the value of them though. i found one on CL that seems legit. should i jump on it, shoot an offer or keep looking? bike has been for sale since march. the price went from $4500 to $4300. what would you guys offer? thanks for any advice.

http://i.imgur.com/N3qdQ4H.pngI just think there are way too many similar bikes out there for at least a thousand less. For that bike you should find something between 2500-3200 max. That guys is selling something with sentimental value. there is nothing on that thing he added, that you are going to keep. Keep looking, or send him a low ball offer and when he replies that you are crazy, then tell him to call you in a month when he's ready, and then offer him 500 less. Keep looking, one will pop up I guarantee!

lovechild
06-08-2013, 1:13 AM
Hello!

My sportster is a 1989. It has the old style footpegs with the female mount. Does anyone know of a simple way that i can run newer style pegs?

Thanks

IronheadVic
06-08-2013, 5:57 AM
The bird tails are nice but don't really cut it for short chops since they're only offered in 4" stretch or more.

Check out 47 fabrication, sweet tail that's super high quality. Has a big twin look if that's what your into. Also has that S shaped seat tube for easy oil tank fitment. But going this route you're pretty much spending what you would on a full frame, I believe they're $700+

I recently got the led sled and it's super beefy, but I only discovered they build these with the backbone slightly off center. I do like the lines on this tail best. I have one sitting on the bench that I'll probably use if I can learn to ignore the weird backbone.

With David Bird tails...4" minimum would be evo sporty, ironheads can be as short as 2".

I saw a thread about the Led Sled off center....still trying to wrap my head around how that ends up working out. I haven't seen one in person before.

47 Fab looks great if you have an Evo.

quadcambanga
06-08-2013, 7:14 AM
Just pulled the motor out of an s2 has thunderstorm conversion dropped it in my 89 xl frame starts and runs fine but won't rev to high just back fires. I think its ignition. Cut maybe a bad ground? Any help

jakeyoung
06-08-2013, 1:19 PM
http://distilleryimage5.s3.amazonaws.com/df95342cc89611e2971f22000a1f8c25_7.jpg

david bird. so nice. couldnt be happier.

usmc50lx
06-08-2013, 2:51 PM
this is the 4"/4" DB on my '94 roller then finished project.....only scraped on a driveway entrance once in about 1,000 mi

nastycitydago
06-08-2013, 2:56 PM
Specs? I'm a short dude don't know what stretch hardtail I should get.

usmc50lx
06-08-2013, 3:35 PM
Specs? I'm a short dude don't know what stretch hardtail I should get.

Mine is a 4" stretch 4" drop.... with forwards and apes it is super comfy, and I'm 5' 10"and 230lbs even some of my friends that are 5'5" say it fits them well but they look a lil stretched out, maybe mids on it if your under 5'8" :cheersmate:

zolch
06-08-2013, 7:20 PM
I like the db weld on for the evo but not so much for the ironhead. The 47 fab is really nice but DAMN, why wouldnt you buy a kraftech frame any stretch or rake you would want and its made in usa for the same price unless its stainless steel or gold plated or somethin to justify that kind of money

MIKE47
06-08-2013, 7:46 PM
I like the db weld on for the evo but not so much for the ironhead. The 47 fab is really nice but DAMN, why wouldnt you buy a kraftech frame any stretch or rake you would want and its made in usa for the same price unless its stainless steel or gold plated or somethin to justify that kind of money

Thanks for the good words guys. Our tails are $650. Not the cheapest but I think we have an item here that is worth the investment. A few extra dollars for a quality frame now means you won't have to rebuild the whole bike later. I know we won't sell as many as some others and we are fine with that. Our goal is not to sell as many as we can but rather to produce the best quality and best looking parts we can for those that want them.

The reason not to just get a kraft tech frame? Simplest answer there is: VIN number. Keeping it is a good idea- as all those that live in CA now know if there's no number on the frame it's no longer a HARLEY but rather a special construction. OK if you have it in your name already but new registration might be an issue. And for resale value as well. Expect to see that coming to other states in the near future for sure.

Other info: We have designed our tail to become a rigid frame, not look like a hardtailed frame. It is way more involved in construction to acheive that look and therefore more costly to build. We have made the dreaded backbone hump all but disappear-even on a 2" over. We keep decent ground clearance around 4 1/2- 5" for good peg clearance so you can still put it into the turns without killing yourself. The lower rails being longer before kicking up to the axle makes it looks more big twin-ish as there's no empty space between the engine and the rear wheel. A full size stock battery fits and can be removed and serviced easily. 5" round oil tank fits without notching. Also your stock brake assembly can be reused with some minor work and it'll fit in between the tubing of the frame and the bleeder is even on top so you can bleed the thing in place. We also don't cut any corners on materials. We use DOM tubing and 1/2 axle plates with coped 3/4" thick rear motor mounts. 1 1/8" top rails for a visually lighter appearance and the narrowest overall frame I know of at 9" between the plates. Installation instructions, measurements and live customer service when needed is included in that price. Our tails come already slugged ready to slide onto your factory front half only requiring 3 straight cuts and 3 weld joints. With a tape meaure and some common sense it can be installed without a frame jig in about 2 hours time (once you have a bare stock frame on the bench). There's plenty of pix at 47fab.com, on Instagram and facebook "47industries" and here in the chopcult chop market threads.

I didn't mean to hijack the thread and turn it into a sales pitch but since the price was questioned I thought an explanation of why was in order. Back to the vtwin discussion.

904Punk
06-08-2013, 8:02 PM
Either go with 47 or keep it swinger. I'm sorry but with the exception of VERY few, all the generics just give you another hardtailed sporty that blends in with the other 3.2 million out there. No offense to anyone who has one but that's just my stupid opinion, if you're going hardtail and can't do it yourself, save a little longer and pay the extra scratch to have Mike do you up right and stand out just a little. While you're at it you can stretch the downtubes or something else to help out with that damn sporty frame.

nastycitydago
06-08-2013, 9:09 PM
Anyone know if I should worry about this clank I hear when I start my 93 motor? It sounds like its coming near from the starter and only hear hear it when I start it up with a warm motor..

Also what could I do to quiet down motor ticking?

threat357
06-08-2013, 9:23 PM
Anyone know if I should worry about this clank I hear when I start my 93 motor? It sounds like its coming near from the starter and only hear hear it when I start it up with a warm motor..

Also what could I do to quiet down motor ticking?

If you only hear it when the bike's warmed up, you're most likely not facing a real problem, but then again, we're not hearing the noise you're talking about.
Motor ticking on a sportster comes with the territory. Nature of the beast, man. Sportys make a lot of top end noise.

nastycitydago
06-08-2013, 9:48 PM
Yeah the motor runs good , it's just literally one clank and that's it. I think it's the starter but what do I know. I read online that its happened to other sporty owners and their bike is still running strong with the clank.

Anothe question , why is it that I can find neutral easily with the bike turned off , but when it's running it won't go into neutral ? Getting really annoying having to hold the clutch in every time I stop.

Ominous
06-08-2013, 9:49 PM
trying to finally move up to a harley. not too sure on the value of them though. i found one on CL that seems legit. should i jump on it, shoot an offer or keep looking? bike has been for sale since march. the price went from $4500 to $4300. what would you guys offer? thanks for any advice.

http://i.imgur.com/N3qdQ4H.png

I paid $4000 for an 883 punched out to 1240 and it had 5400 miles and a stretched sporty tank. You look around and wait for a better priced sporty if you want but I didn't regret buying mine and the next year when I put it on craig's list I asked $4500 with 15,450 miles on it and sold it to a guy for $3950. That's 10,000 miles of open road for the low low price of $50 and new tires. Do the math and figure if you think your getting suckered at the price he's asking you can always find a bigger sucker later on and get what you paid for it. They sale for $4000 on an average. That's the facts of my experience.

arandysewer
06-08-2013, 10:40 PM
God damn that rubber is mean as fuck.
Can you share the deets?


I went with Road 6 Custom's tail, couldn't be happier.

http://www.road6customs.com/

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn237/03wrxer/IMG_0092.jpg (http://s305.photobucket.com/user/03wrxer/media/IMG_0092.jpg.html)

threat357
06-09-2013, 12:11 AM
Yeah the motor runs good , it's just literally one clank and that's it. I think it's the starter but what do I know. I read online that its happened to other sporty owners and their bike is still running strong with the clank.

Anothe question , why is it that I can find neutral easily with the bike turned off , but when it's running it won't go into neutral ? Getting really annoying having to hold the clutch in every time I stop.

It's not uncommon, and really nothing to be concerned about.
As for neutral, you most likely just need a clutch adjustment. That usually takes care of it.

concrete72
06-09-2013, 8:13 AM
I paid $4000 for an 883 punched out to 1240 and it had 5400 miles and a stretched sporty tank. You look around and wait for a better priced sporty if you want but I didn't regret buying mine and the next year when I put it on craig's list I asked $4500 with 15,450 miles on it and sold it to a guy for $3950. That's 10,000 miles of open road for the low low price of $50 and new tires. Do the math and figure if you think your getting suckered at the price he's asking you can always find a bigger sucker later on and get what you paid for it. They sale for $4000 on an average. That's the facts of my experience.
Good point. it really comes down to what you can afford and are looking for.

xllance
06-09-2013, 7:01 PM
Yeah the motor runs good , it's just literally one clank and that's it. I think it's the starter but what do I know. I read online that its happened to other sporty owners and their bike is still running strong with the clank.

Anothe question , why is it that I can find neutral easily with the bike turned off , but when it's running it won't go into neutral ? Getting really annoying having to hold the clutch in every time I stop.

All the Sportsters I've ridden are like that. Get used to slipping it into neutral just before you roll to a stop.

HM0125
06-09-2013, 7:16 PM
I paid $4000 for an 883 punched out to 1240 and it had 5400 miles and a stretched sporty tank. You look around and wait for a better priced sporty if you want but I didn't regret buying mine and the next year when I put it on craig's list I asked $4500 with 15,450 miles on it and sold it to a guy for $3950. That's 10,000 miles of open road for the low low price of $50 and new tires. Do the math and figure if you think your getting suckered at the price he's asking you can always find a bigger sucker later on and get what you paid for it. They sale for $4000 on an average. That's the facts of my experience.

Went to look at it today. Clean bike. After talking a bit, I asked her what is the lowest she'd go. She said $4000. Thinking about calling her in two days and offering $3500. If she says no, $3500 without the bags (she said they're worth $400 lol)

so i'll see what she says. thanks guys.

hooligano7
06-10-2013, 7:08 PM
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/941128_10200492602651236_552434074_n.jpg

zolch
06-11-2013, 2:39 PM
Now that is one fine lookin machine and that is what a weld on should look like. What size tires, wheels and make are those. The fender looks like it grew there! Who makes it.

Blackbetty
06-11-2013, 3:43 PM
I decided to burn in the led sled tail. This is 2" stretch

http://i.imgur.com/erBCxmFl.jpg

This roller from clay rathburn's abomb customs is what sold the led sled tail for me:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/hillbillyhell/001-6.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/hillbillyhell/007-11.jpg

Kepmo
06-11-2013, 7:55 PM
I got mine from 47 Industries. I liked the fact that the oil tank was behind the post and i'm an old BMX guy and the back bone reminded me of the 80's GT performer frames...the way the backbone extends past the down tube and is cut on an angle and had the GT stamp. His work is super clean and he's a good guy too. http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w638/keith_morris2/IMG_5610_zps5eb37d2d.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/keith_morris2/media/IMG_5610_zps5eb37d2d.jpg.html)

http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w638/keith_morris2/IMG_5599_zpsb37069d2.jpg (http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/keith_morris2/media/IMG_5599_zpsb37069d2.jpg.html)

dexxx
06-12-2013, 6:48 PM
horseshoe oil tank option for an ironhead? I know theres stock ones from early models, but I also know theyre rare and fetch a pretty penny

Anyone ever mount a big twin wrap around oil tank on an ironhead? Will it even fit? different lines? other options?

Thanks

Bringtheruckus
06-13-2013, 9:22 AM
I decided to burn in the led sled tail. This is 2" stretch



Man, led sleds are fucking spot on.

ruckus2115
06-13-2013, 9:34 AM
i know i would run a 47industries....regardless of his reasoning for the price. the lines of his hardtail is unbelievably spot on. add in the fact that you keep your neck....

helltaco
06-13-2013, 10:58 AM
Man, led sleds are fucking spot on.
Except that the back bone is right where you want the oil tank to be, so you usually have to notch the tank to fit it in. On the plus side, then it covers up that weird looking bend in the tube.

WayneTahiti
06-13-2013, 2:23 PM
2010 Sporty with about 10k miles. I noticed lately there's an excessive amount of oily grime on the front of the engine. Seems like this pipe isn't seated properly. I could easily be wrong but it seems to be coming from this general area. What do you think?

I have no idea why that pic is upside down!

Evidence
06-13-2013, 3:17 PM
You sure its not making its way over there because of how your blowby is set up or something? Have you messed with the rocker boxes lately? That would seem really odd for it to come out of the exhaust port.

seaz
06-13-2013, 5:07 PM
i want to get rid of my off and run controls on my handlebars. what wiring do i have to do to overcome this and just people to turn my key and press a button. also what are peoples suggestions for kill switches. im trying to have no switches on my handlebars. thanks

Gunsix
06-13-2013, 5:57 PM
My ironhead started spitting oil out of the front exhaust, it was fixed by getting the valves done. That might be what you are starting to experience.

HRK123
06-13-2013, 7:02 PM
Trace the wires down to the fuse box or as far as necessary to re-route them, then run new wires or extend the existing wires to where you want your new switches to be. If you want an automotive style switch, it's a good idea to run a relay on it so it doesn't overload the switch. For a kill switch you can literally run any on/off switch you want.

xllance
06-13-2013, 9:23 PM
I guess the first thing to do would be to put a wrench on that nut and see if it's loose......

jollyroger
06-14-2013, 12:04 AM
So I'm once again in deep in my '80 Ironhead. This time I initially set off to do a kickstart conversion (yes this is one of the E80 cases and that's not really relevant). Over the last few months, whenever I was out riding, I noticed a weird rattling noise coming from the engine case, but only when I was in 4th gear, so I decided to get into the transmission. . . then found a set of y cams for cheap, and a top end with good, worked heads. . ..

Anyway. . .

I found a few gears that were pretty gnarly, the third on the c/s shaft was pretty chewed up, and while I was at it, I decided to invest in the wide ration andrews first gear set. I also noticed that the space between the gears that the forks are attached to seemed way out of spec.

As I'm putting things back together I have been trying to gap the gears like the manual says, but I'm having a helluva time doing it. And I haven't even started with the shaft end play yet. This is taking way longer than I expected.

Here's the specifics:

I have the original forks but one is trash (deeply grooved on the sides that meet the inside edges of the gear groove part). I got one +.020 and one -.020 fork. I also got all four sizes of low gear thrust washers for this transmission. I also have one shim that goes between the pawl carrier and the trap door (I've ordered these parts seperately over the last few weeks doing a sort of trial and error to figure this out which has not worked out well for me).

Currently I have it set up with no shim between the carrier and the trap door. I have the +.020 fork on the m/s gear, and the stock fork on the c/s gear. I also have the largest thrust washer on the low c/s gear which is .100 inch.

on the main shaft, the gap looks pretty good at about .043 on each side (almost perfectly even). The issue is on the countershaft. With this current setup, between the third and second on the c/s I get .047, but between the third and low gear, there is no gap at all. Even with the largest thrust washer. In fact the low gear sort of catches on the third gear dogs (not sure if the male or female side of those gears is the dogs, but they barely engage is what I'm getting at). Also yes, this is all being measured in neutral.

I have two questions:

Can I use more than one thrust washer on the low c/s gear to gap it correctly? If not, How can I get the gap correct for both sides of third on the counter shaft? Mind you the only different sizes I know of for the forks go in increments of .020. If I go with a larger fork for the countershaft, that would move my third/second gap out of spec which is between .028 and .058 per the manual.

What do I do?

stevebeard
06-14-2013, 8:33 AM
your run/off switch is basically a kill switch located on the bars. If you want to just turn the key and push the start button then I dont think you would want to run a kill switch.

nunez8853
06-14-2013, 8:46 AM
just get your self a two way toggle from autozone or the like and wire that in if you want to just relocate it. if not just take the thing out its as simple as cut and paste.

punkrod
06-14-2013, 11:19 AM
If you like a key, you can install this one where your current ignition switch is.
Key switch with start (http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/weatherproof-ignition-switch-with-momentary-start.html)
It even has a feature where you can push the key in for a horn or other momentary device.
Most guys doing the "chopper wiring" thing wire the headlight high beam on all the time, (aim the lamp down a bit), run no front brake switch, (only the rear brake activates the light) and ditch the blinkers.
I have simple wiring diagrams if you want one. Drop me a PM and I'll tailor one for your bike.

Evidence
06-14-2013, 2:18 PM
You could always buy a cheap key switch from Lowbrow, find a place to mount it and then run a direct plunger button on your starter. I did that for a while. The only thing that sucks is if your exhaust is in the way, you will burn the shit out of yourself starting up after you get gas or something...it makes your wiring 100x more simple though.

Now, I have an automotive style ignition. I bought a key switch made for a John Deere tractor and just ran the extra wire from the starter to the switch....not sure how IH's are set up, but Evo's just have one wire off the starter.

GermanG
06-14-2013, 2:39 PM
I can not follow your description. Any pictures?

jollyroger
06-14-2013, 2:59 PM
When I get home, i can upload some. But I think I may have found my answer. Thanks.

TwoLaneFever
06-15-2013, 5:40 AM
Anothe question , why is it that I can find neutral easily with the bike turned off , but when it's running it won't go into neutral ? Getting really annoying having to hold the clutch in every time I stop.

clutch needs a bit more adjustment to fully disengage the plates then will move thru gears a bit easier,might take it out with cable adust ment

Arisaka
06-15-2013, 9:26 AM
Tge starter solenoid on an ironhead is on the opposite side from the exhaust. If the plunger is the one im thinking of you just reach down behind your left leg and hit it. It shorts the posts on the solenoid like using a screwdriver across the terminals.

Arisaka
06-15-2013, 9:31 AM
Is the rear cylinder doing it too? Im helping a friend with the same issue. His looks to be around the cylinder where it meets the head but only on the left side of the bike. Hard to tell if the head gasket is leaking or if the oil is flying in yhere from somewhere else. I was thinking of cleaning the area really well and stuffing some toilet paper between the fins to determine where the oil is coming from. Oil from the exhaust port seems odd to me...

JohnnyBGoode
06-15-2013, 11:38 AM
spray it all down with brake cleaner, make it nice and clean, go out and ride it til it's hot and then check again to make sure. oil out exhaust could be rings or guides, but looks more like a rocker box leak.

Hyde802
06-15-2013, 11:38 AM
Clean all of the grime off. All of it. Then start the bike and try to watch where its coming from

Edit: too late, bgood posted first.

If you know your loosing some oil, make sure you still have the proper amount in the tank. Might be wise to see what your spark plugs look like too.

cb550Matt
06-15-2013, 12:40 PM
I am rebuilding my 75 ironhead tranny at the moment as well using Andrews close ratio and a trock door and pawl setup. First thing you have to do is align the shifter forks so that they are within spec and then you have to space the countershaft low gear dogs so they are in spec.

You do all of this in neutral.

Then you have to shift through the gears to make sure there is no binding and it is smooth, and then check for proper dog placement in the gears at least 25%, which is the absolute minimum you can get away with but you should set it up so there is more contact.

Then you get to put the entire thing in the case and check for CS endplay and then take it out put the proper thrust washer on and put it all back in and check for mainshaft play.

I am so practiced at taking the thing apart and putting it back together it takes less than 3 min to pull it out repack the needle bearings change thrust washers and put it back in.

There is a great write up over on the JJ with dragstews and roach helping crebo and a ton of folks out, myself included. It is 51+ pages but it will tell you every single thing you may have needed to ask about ironhead transmissions. The shifter forks are the real shitty thing to buy since you have no idea what you need and you need to try them all out.

I got lucky with buying a set of standard size just to see if I needed +/- and it was dead set.

http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52573&highlight=crebo

CanineMerc
06-15-2013, 2:19 PM
I would say that your valve guide seal needs replaced. Regardless of a loose exhaust, you shouldn't have that much oil in the exhaust. Also if you had the rocker box covers off, make sure you installed the umbrella valve correctly. Another thing is if you up graded to a 1200 kit, piston ring end gap and orientation could cause oil blow by.

CanineMerc
06-15-2013, 2:22 PM
Is your oil filter on snug? Or did you leave the old oil filter seal on?

Massyamaha
06-15-2013, 3:01 PM
Ok below is the plug that plugs into the speedo. What I need is a diagram to remap the wires back into the plug..long story short, the wrong harness was cut to be spliced into a new relocator kit. It's from a 2013 48. The two grey ones are for the reset button. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Thanks

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40331&stc=1&d=1371330128

Massyamaha
06-15-2013, 5:10 PM
Mods, can you fix sports, to sportster/sportster 48..thanks

nunez8853
06-15-2013, 8:18 PM
Hey fellas so righr now I'm on an 883 02 stock motor all the way around


Iv been wanting to get into the motor and beef it up. Everyone seems to be getting those 1250 kits I my self want to go 1200 save me some cash and put it elsewhere.

For those of you guys that know what's up would it be worth it to cam it on the 1200 i like to keep my rpm anywhere from 2000 4000 when I ride. I plan I doing some traveling next year and there are gonna be a lot of mountains and foot hill in the way. I need to get up and through those things.

What are your thoughts

kiddante
06-15-2013, 8:26 PM
Bought a 08' Nightster last summer, and I finally have some money stashed away to do some mods. I was thinking about selling it or trading up because I feel it is too small, but I decided I'd like to chop it down to look like a vintage chopper style with a king/queen seat and all.

I really have no idea where to start, any tips or info would be greatly appreciated.

I already know I need to:

- hardtail it (not sure if I should need a weld on hardtail or an entire new frame?)
- convert from belt drive to chain drive

Thanks for any help in advance.

Tuesdayclub
06-15-2013, 8:39 PM
My thought is why is this in the junk pile?

LinkBelt
06-15-2013, 8:54 PM
For cool ass parts such as the K/Q seat, tanks and fenders keep an eye peeled in the classifieds. For other special fab work, paint work and such look in the chop market.

joe78
06-15-2013, 9:09 PM
Depends on the budget you have ... As for hardtails Rene from mercury moto has the slickest hardtails for these bikes hands down IMO . Get choppin!!!

paulw
06-15-2013, 9:13 PM
working around the efi can suck, but ive seen it done pretty well

JMFNC
06-15-2013, 10:20 PM
I know that a stock 94 xl1200 has no problem with the grapevine. Whatever else you add would be for your enjoyment

Brendden
06-15-2013, 10:25 PM
If your gonna tear into the engine might as well go 1250 with thunderstorm heads, and high compression pistons and the mildest cam you can run without it pinging to maintain your ride-ability.

threat357
06-15-2013, 10:29 PM
When it comes to motor work, it's easy to start simple and escalate to the point of damn near building a race bike haha. Plus, opinions on what's best can take you in all directions, and add up the cost pretty quick. Best to know before you start what exactly your goal is. If all you're looking to do is make it a little faster and ballsier (is that a word?) without braking the bank, my suggestion is an 883 to 1200 piston conversion kit (HD or Wiseco) with 1200 cylinders. That'll bump your compression ratio up to 10:1 also. Air cleaner and exhaust changes. Rejet and retune the carb. Keep the stock 883 drive gearing, and drop in some .497 SE cams or Andrews N4's (same cam, and both made by Andrews actually). You'll notice a big difference, and it'll be very practical for hard street use. Good midrange AND highrange performance.

Jackfrost
06-16-2013, 4:32 AM
When it comes to motor work, it's easy to start simple and escalate to the point of damn near building a race bike haha. Plus, opinions on what's best can take you in all directions, and add up the cost pretty quick. Best to know before you start what exactly your goal is. If all you're looking to do is make it a little faster and ballsier (is that a word?) without braking the bank, my suggestion is an 883 to 1200 piston conversion kit (HD or Wiseco) with 1200 cylinders. That'll bump your compression ratio up to 10:1 also. Air cleaner and exhaust changes. Rejet and retune the carb. Keep the stock 883 drive gearing, and drop in some .497 SE cams or Andrews N4's (same cam, and both made by Andrews actually). You'll notice a big difference, and it'll be very practical for hard street use. Good midrange AND highrange performance.

+1 This sounds about right. :cheersmate:

I'll add that the "thunderstorm" heads are no longer worth the extra coin. The 2004 and up 1200 heads out perform them on the dyno and in your piggy bank.

Don't forget the intake/exhaust and ignition changes.

Allen
06-16-2013, 5:40 AM
My thought is why is this in the junk pile?

I'm not sure? I've noticed a growing trend that threads, that belong in other sections, are being started in the JP without (as far as I can tell) a logical reason... I'm currently moving about one a day, which is about matching what I move into the JP from other forums?

I'm moving this thread, as it stands, to the American Forum where it belongs.

zolch
06-16-2013, 9:01 AM
Wow there sure are alot of "spot on" hardtails out there, arent there?

BrokenSprocketGarage
06-16-2013, 10:30 AM
A good all around 1200cc conversion is what you need. Wiseco forged, dished pistons will allow you to use the stock heads, and yield acceptable compression ratios. Have your cylinders bored out to match the piston size. Find a local machine shop that has done it before. I pay around $175 here in western NY. Upgrade to Andrews N4 cams. Add a Twin Tec Ignition! It will really run better with a hotter ignition, and higher rpm limit. I would recommend a larger rear pulley(stock on 1200XL's). The last two 1200 conversions I did were wanting another gear at highway speeds. Hi flow air cleaner, Dynojet Thunderslide Kit are mandatory. Or a Mikuni 42mm flatslide if ya want the best. A 2-1 exhaust will give the best performance and driveability. No stupid short drag pipes or extravagent air cleaners, they will give you tuning headaches.

KennyC
06-16-2013, 10:33 AM
im right in the middle of doing it.. i got the ledsled hardtail and chain conversion it looks good but there were a few issues getting it put on...im at the wiring stage and well its shitty but it will get done...you can get a lot of parts on here at a good price to make the project more reasonable

BrokenSprocketGarage
06-16-2013, 10:43 AM
That info can be found in an HD service manual......

MikeHoncho702
06-16-2013, 10:57 AM
Ok below is the plug that plugs into the speedo. What I need is a diagram to remap the wires back into the plug..long story short, the wrong harness was cut to be spliced into a new relocator kit. It's from a 2013 48. The two grey ones are for the reset button. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Thanks

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40331&stc=1&d=1371330128

hey dude the part number is 68813-07 go to your local hd and give them that pn.

nunez8853
06-16-2013, 12:24 PM
Sorry fellas I didn't relize I posted in the junkpile I'm working off my phone . I thought I was in the american forum.

nunez8853
06-16-2013, 12:46 PM
So here's the deal I'd like more hp but I'd rather have better torq I like the off the line power. But at high speeds 70 80 interstate speeds I wouldn't mind loosing too much power I don't want to bog down but some loss at the top is cool. I like to cruse at those speeds I'm not an aggressive rider at all. I just want to know I'm going to have the power power when I need it.

You say thunderstorms are not woth it on price any more huh would there be problems fitting 04 heads on my 02? I'm pretty much set ob the 1200 I think for my needs its plenty of power and with the money I'd save I'd like to out it where its gonna do the most good.

If I can make a motor as good wuth half the cost and have it be dependable then I'd rather do that than a 1250 k
it


As well I will be ditching the drag pipes just not sure what I'm gonna run yet. And I was thinking about getting those cvoreformence kits. I'd like yo keep my cv just cause i have no issue with it and as of now I'm running cranecam dual fire nothing special. Could I keep that or is it recommended to go singlefire

Bdehlin
06-16-2013, 1:03 PM
I run a 03 883 to 1200 conversion and love it. Bike has a 1200 Buell top end, stock cams (for now), 2-1 exhaust, big sucker air cleaner, rejetted cv carb, and a crane single fire ignition. Thing has plenty of power for just me, and still pulls very well when i ride with my wife. I've put 4k miles on the bike since the conversion last October, bike hasn't missed a beat. It's a bit buzzy at 85+ mph, but at that speed all it wants to do is go faster and pulls like crazy at WOT.

You should be ok with the stock cams and the dual fire ignition. I only went single fire cause i got a killer deal on the ignition kit.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk 2

nunez8853
06-16-2013, 1:06 PM
I see a lot of kats running the buell heads do yo guys get them used where at?

cutthroat
06-16-2013, 5:37 PM
Maybe you've seen me post before &* saw I'm a paint & body guy.I can do about anything to a car but only really gotten in the bikes in the past two years.That being said I know little of shit when it comes to bikes but how to paint&ride em.
I found a 76 titled sporty for next to nothing.I know its worth what he wants.I'm considering buying it though it has issues Hell,my grandpa was a bike builder&when he got my dad a bsa 650 he made him take the motor apart&put it back together&told him if he was going to ride it he had to know how to fix it.I found my old man dead a few weeks ago & he had told me that I needed to do the same since my focus has shifted to bikes .Anyways I'm ranting what my question is what is the low end & high end price of a rebuild for the motor& tranny..separate please.the fella said either the oil pump went out&locked up the motor or the tranny is locked up idk haven't been to see it yet. I Know I said to pull apart to Learn but I'm thinking on doing that on a running bike since I wouldn't know what to look for if it's abreast broke with my lack of knowledge.Anyways thanks fellas.
******** Please excuse any typos or terseness: this email was sent from my mobile and I have clumsy fingers.

farmall
06-16-2013, 6:49 PM
What is "next to nothing"? Since it don't run, get it CHEEP, and always make SURE the title matches the VIN.

As to what a Sportster rebuild costs, "just as much as doing the same items on a Big Twin", but you still have a Sportster. That may be good or less good depending on your goals.

There is no precise "low end or high end" because it depends on what's ailing each particular engine. "High end" tops out at "replacement" which = "current price for all items which cannot be reconditioned" plus any machine work or welding.

If you want to guesstimate, spend the time to download a parts catalog then make the rounds of the internet and pick what you think best after getting advice on each item.

If you want a training opportunity (I agree that the pain of building yourself to get experience is good), see if you can buy the thing at a price where you KNOW you can part it out for a profit if it's not worth the expense. You've done cars, be just as cold-blooded about bikes. Both are mass-produced consumer goods. You don't have to marry what you can pimp.

If it's not worth rebuilding, you have the experience of tearing it down and cleaning up the bits for resale. That's a perfectly valid use of time.

You will not save money in most cases over buying a good used machine, but you can get things your way. The economy is in the shitter and will remain so for a while so if you want something to ride consider a running used Sporty. You can always work on that as required.

Mc13
06-16-2013, 7:08 PM
I have an 02 883 xlc, it has 7xxx miles. went for a ride yesterday and it started shifting weird. nueatral light dont work, have to shift twice into second and when i shift into third its like its in nueatral. any ideas?

Stlmikie
06-16-2013, 7:44 PM
If you pull in the clutch and kick it over wouldn't it turn the motor over? If it turns over and the motor is really broken up badly you would know if its the tranny or motor right?

cutthroat
06-16-2013, 8:00 PM
If you pull in the clutch and kick it over wouldn't it turn the motor over? If it turns over and the motor is really broken up badly you would know if its the tranny or motor right?

Yeah when I go to look@ it I plan on seeing if it'll roll in gear or turn over etc

blackjx
06-16-2013, 8:27 PM
check the clip that holds the detent wheel on the shifting drum. It likes to fall off and do exactly what you describe.

blackjx
06-16-2013, 8:51 PM
sportsters usually cost more than a big twin, not the same. For one thing, you gotta deal with the trans to split the cases, another is the majority have clapped out lifters and tappet blocks that cost 600-1000 alone. If you want cams, it's about triple the price of a big-twin cam. There's other reasons as well. Another thing to consider is that around here, anyway, very few shops are willing to repair ironheads at all. I get sent I/H's from a couple of places.

Evidence
06-17-2013, 6:59 AM
I have been doing a lot of research on the kits, since im going to do the conversion this winter while I have the bike torn apart. I think im going to end up going with the 1250. It puts down a little more power, and I think ultimately the cost wont be a whole lot different. the 1200 kits are like 520 or so, and the 1250 is like 699. If you go through NHRS, he always has a deal going where he gaps the rings and installs the pistons for you for like $1 (basically free of charge). When you get the 1200 kits, you are saving a little bit of money but you also have to go buy a ring gap tool and some gauges (which I dont have). That will probably run you 60+ bucks for those two things....I will probably end up throwing down an extra bill for the ease and extra power.

Edit: Also if I remember correctly, NHRS will give you jugs with the larger fins like the 04+ which helps with cooling...you might double check me on that though, I may have been looking at a different package.

carter
06-17-2013, 7:54 AM
I bet you can sell yours, get on older bike cheaper and have even more cash on hand to play with. I chopped my efi sporty and it will just never be as cool as it would without all that wiring and that big ol' rubbermount ring. if you have a nightster, people will buy that because they like the way it looks and you can buy an ugly-ass pre 2006 (or whatever) sportster for thousands less. if you are going to chop it anyway, start with something ugly and cheap. this is a lesson learned from a guy who chopped a perfectly good 2011 forty-eight. I love it now, but I would have done it differently if I had a time machine.

JohnnyBGoode
06-17-2013, 8:30 AM
Stock cams are good cams, and you can buy a good used set off ebay for about 100$

Taking the tranny out is nothing hard, just like a big twin, pop out the primary goods and then you just have 4 more bolts to go through to get the trap door out. You'll probably need new shims and clips, inspect all the gears under a magnifier to see if there's any stress cracks you'll likely miss with the naked eye.

Yeah, lifters and guides are usually shot, but pull them out and see if they have any wiggle room, if so, you can buy oversized lifters and then hone the guides out for a *cheaper* route.. Harley stuff ain't cheap, you don't want to skimp out and buy cheap parts.

Might as well rebuild the bottom end to with a set of Truett and Osbourne flywheels, stock stroke and all cost about 280$.

It's all up to you, how much you're willing to fork out, what the bikes worth to you. They're not very happy on the interstate at 75+ for extended periods of time.

HedleyLamarr
06-17-2013, 8:33 AM
I love it now, but I would have done it differently if I had a time machine.

if I had a time machine, I probably wouldn't give two shits about building motorcycles

mikeylikesitt
06-17-2013, 10:14 AM
Take it from me, sell the bike and buy an older sporty. My bike runs great now that ive finally gotten it all sorted out. but I converted it to carb to get rid of all the bullshit wiring and efi and now im stuck with an 08 that is basically an 04. I love it, but if what you want it something simple, minimalist and all that. Sell the nightster for what its worth now and save money in the end. Or chop it and do what I did haha. All comes down to what you want! Good luck man!

psychokat
06-17-2013, 11:50 AM
I wholeheartedly agree with the last three posts- especially Headly's!! first, you should slap yourself for shit talking a sportster; that is 74'' and four cams of panty soaking fury, right there! Second, If you want to build a cool, old looking chopper, then SELL the nightster as is, pick up an '86-'03( rubbermounts started in '04) and then go to town choppin' it! It's not that you can't get the rubbermounts to look good, but there is sooo much more hassle involved. Plus one other 'issue' that is oft overlooked is this; if you hardtail a rubbermount bike WITHOUT slugging out/ solid mounting the motor, you will eventually run into wear problems with your final belt/ chain! If you look at the rear motor mount on the n9ightster, you will see that the swingarm uses the same rubber mount. This allows the tranny pulley and rear wheel pulley to vibrate/ flex the same and keep the belt in line. If you hardtail, now the final pulley/ sprocket is solid mounted; while the tranny pulley/ sprocket is vibrating like a motherfucker and they are no longer in line...

Plus, you got the EFI, which works great- right up until it doesn't! If the '08 is in good shape, you can sell it for a good price- take that money and start with a platform that is more friendly to your end state! I have a 2009 nightster, which I have renamed the dayster. Because that is how far removed it is now from when I bought it new. I really like the way it looks now, but I wish I woulda picked the ugly ass, off-white 2003 883hugger that was my other option. It was only $3500. I coulda made it a 1250cc; chopped it; and STILL been way less into it than I am right now into my '09! And I'm not even done, yet!! Good Luck!

WayneTahiti
06-17-2013, 1:03 PM
Oil filter is all snug and I have than it apart. I'm goingtoclean it all down and change the oil/ filter and check all the bolts. Any particular oil you guys recommend?

kiddante
06-17-2013, 1:49 PM
im right in the middle of doing it.. i got the ledsled hardtail and chain conversion it looks good but there were a few issues getting it put on...im at the wiring stage and well its shitty but it will get done...you can get a lot of parts on here at a good price to make the project more reasonable

Which ledsled frame? Are you keeping the EFI? Got any pictures?

threat357
06-17-2013, 1:50 PM
I have a 2009 nightster, which I have renamed the dayster.

let's see a pic of that dayster!

lowpala
06-17-2013, 2:09 PM
Hi! new to Chop cult and i recently bought a iron sportser. really in to the bike havent been starting to put my touch on it yet. Have some shit im gonna change on it and also need to find a shop manual for it, Been workin on custom cars / lowriders for the last ten years and bikes isnt really my strong side.. Does anybody know where i can find an online or downloadable shop manual for my engine? Thanks // Rob

A pic of my new toy :)
http://harleyforum.se/attachment.php?attachmentid=12103&d=1371128207

nick4tuna
06-17-2013, 2:22 PM
I'm somewhat new to this site and so far, couldn't be happier with it. Nonetheless, I need some help with a sporty chop that I'm in the middle of. I just got done welding on the new hard tail, solo seat, etc. and now It's time for paint before the reassembly. I'm going to paint the frame/bars black but I was considering stripping the gas tank & rear fender of paint completely and aging them to get somewhat of a "rusted" look without the damaging effects. Does anyone have any pointers or tips to do so?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 2:22 PM
So my bike was a one or two kick bike. Fired right up every time. Now, it takes 5 minutes of kicking to fire the bitch up. This started when I moved to Cali. Pushrods have been adjusted, clutch has been adjusted, carb is tuned up.
Just recently, it's now dying after I punch it into first gear after I've spent 5 minutes kicking and praying i avoid the dreaded hyperextension!!
What the fuck is wrong with this bitch!?? :banghead:

farmall
06-17-2013, 2:23 PM
They're not very happy on the interstate at 75+ for extended periods of time.

Taller final drive sprockets help. Most old motorcycles had "bar bike" gearing.

Unless you specifically want something Ironheads offer that nothing else does, there isn't a functional reason to get one (assuming function enters into why you buy a motorcycle).

I used to buy them and refresh 'em for resale in the '80s when they were dirt cheap, but if I got a non-runner now it would hit Ebay in pieces so fast it would leave shock waves unless it were a collectible model with enough parts to be worth a resto.

It ain't hard to yank the gearbox etc.

I just find the "rewards" don't match the investment required. There are some folks who dump their Big Twins for Sportsters, but it's usually the other way around so why delay the inevitable? :D

farmall
06-17-2013, 2:26 PM
Check compression first thing, even if it's not obviously different when kicking it over.

What altitude did you move FROM and what is your altitude now?

What carb and carb jet numbers are you running?

What color are the plugs?

ruckus2115
06-17-2013, 2:58 PM
holy shit...is the search function not working today kiddante?

crfyou how has this thread not been moved into the "ultimate sportster question thread"?

hatcity
06-17-2013, 2:59 PM
I'm no expert but That's exactly how my bike acted once when I forgot to put fluid in the primary

jollyroger
06-17-2013, 3:19 PM
cb550Matt, you are awesome!

Between the time that I wrote this initial thread, and now, I did figure out how to get my gears spaced out right. what was until about five minutes ago kicking my ass was figuring out how to check end play and all that. Just got that figured out from that write-up.

Now on to order what I hope will be my last parts I'll need: new m/s and c/s washers to correct the end play.

Man I feel like I've been working at this bike for years. And it's only been about three weeks.

On, and by the way, I ended up re-using a lot of the transmission. I only swapped out my c/s third gear (was really chewed up), and I replaced my stock first gear set with the Andrews wide-ration gear set. One thing that happened to me to be mindful of: when I went to put the tranny in, I realized that in the tranny housing on the case itself there's a chunk of casing that dips down from the top for a bolt that connects the two engine halves. the wide ration gear on the main shaft is actually wider enough that it hung up on that chunk of casing. I ended up just relieving it with a dremel.

Just a head's up in case you run into the same thing I did. I took a while to figure out that's why my main shaft would not turn at all when the tranny was in even with no thrust washers at all.

TwoLaneFever
06-17-2013, 3:28 PM
They aren't for every guy out there, they are finiky touchy sobs.then the cost to rebuild well h/ds ,arent cheap in that aspect(parts) ,then you need to realize these where RACE BIKES,,so they where built for running wfo around a mile track and checked over each race....ok now to present day not sure what they are, cruiser, bar bike ,GIRLS BIKE ,.It all goes to, what do you want ?Interstate cruiser?coast to coast bike?bar bike ?race bike?chopper or a project for rainy nights?see sportsters are for the guys that love them,no other reason,,, if you are willing to pay the" troll" and dive in ,,once your done, all it will do,, is put a shit eating grin on your face.

Blackbetty
06-17-2013, 3:35 PM
Make sure your front upper motor mount isn't snugged up in a way where it's making contact on your rocker cover.

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 3:40 PM
I moved from Houston, TX to Ventura, CA. I got 66, 28.5 jets on my super e. Just did a primary fluid and gasket change Friday. Have not checked compression yet but isn't that kinda pricey??

TwoLaneFever
06-17-2013, 3:44 PM
compression test takes 5 min tops ,shouldn,t cost much if you got a:" bike guy "hookup there in cali.or spend the coins for compression tester ,,,

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 4:13 PM
Unfortunately I don't know anyone out here.

xllance
06-17-2013, 4:29 PM
Unfortunately I don't know anyone out here.

Just buy a compression gauge from any auto parts store. You don't need someone to do that for you. Do you have the idle set too low ? Is it electronic ignition or points ?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 4:29 PM
So here is what my plugs are looking like. Just changed them out about a month ago too.
40355


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xllance
06-17-2013, 4:35 PM
So here is what my plugs are looking like. Just changed them out about a month ago too.
40355


Sent using Tapatalk

They look wet in that pic. Looks like oil fouling but it's hard to tell. Did you adjust the float ? You said the carb has been "tuned". What all was done to the carb ?

JohnnyBGoode
06-17-2013, 4:36 PM
Either you're way rich, or you're burnin' oil.


Let's go with easy first, 285 66 is what I'm running, try turning your fuel mixture screw in 1/4 of the way, see how it likes it, then another 1/4 if it still coughs out, listen for stumbling and speeding up, you want a 'happy median'

Might have your idle too low paired with a slightly maladjusted clutch.. It's no big twin.

check point gap while you're at it.

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 4:43 PM
haha, the clutch actually should be good, i followed your steps exactly, and it's been great since. I will try the fuel mixture screw and see what happens. Turning the fuel mixture screw in(clockwise) adds fuel to the mixture or leans it out??
...And when I get back from deployment I will be buying a Shovel ASAP.

Funny you said that, I was gonna buy a feeler gauge this afternoon to check that.

JohnnyBGoode
06-17-2013, 4:43 PM
^ yup.

Mine's a daily rider, I put 100+ miles on it when the weathers right, yes, sometimes shit breaks! lol, Had an advance spring break on me when I was tryin to make it home quick on the i rolling at 75+ for 30 minutes, it wouldn't idle worth a shit, but it got me home where I could take it apart.

I also plan on taking it coast to coast... Would I rather have a bike that can ride highways at steady speeds with no worry? Sometimes, but I do enjoy my old ironhead, and back country roads.

JohnnyBGoode
06-17-2013, 4:44 PM
in leans it out, out fattens it up. you want a nice brown/tan plug.



shovelheads aren't called troubleheads for nothin either..


Want somethin reliable? Stress free? Buy new?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 4:46 PM
They look wet in that pic. Looks like oil fouling but it's hard to tell. Did you adjust the float ? You said the carb has been "tuned". What all was done to the carb ?

Have not touched the float. I meant that went through the steps S&S has. But of course it may have been done wrong.

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 4:50 PM
in leans it out, out fattens it up. you want a nice brown/tan plug.



shovelheads aren't called troubleheads for nothin either..


Want somethin reliable? Stress free? Buy new?

Haha, yes, I dont mind wrenching at all, I enjoy it. It's just difficult for me in my current situation as I have nowhere to wrench at...which is what sucks. I want to wrench so I can learn all about these engines, Ironheads and Shovels. I will buy a newer bike later on but I dont like all those wires, sensors and computers they come with now.

So am I possibly flooding the jugs when trying to start??
I'll look at a compression gauge XLLance.

JohnnyBGoode
06-17-2013, 4:52 PM
Do you use the enrichener when starting? I never do, but a lot of people do and end up fouling plugs.

does that wet plug smell like gas or oil?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 4:59 PM
yes I have to pull the enrichner out every time. Smells like gas, swiped it across my finger and almost no oil came off it.

24Cycles
06-17-2013, 5:00 PM
check the back of your key switch for corrosion check for a ground check plug wires for a break check your condenser on your ignition

JohnnyBGoode
06-17-2013, 5:04 PM
overloading it with fuel. I'd turn in that mixture screw, stop messing with your enrichener (it's warm in cali I'd assume), and bump your idle up a hair or two and see how well that works out for yas.

How far out is your accel pump screw?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 5:05 PM
check the back of your key switch for corrosion check for a ground check plug wires for a break check your condenser on your ignition

will do

TwoLaneFever
06-17-2013, 5:12 PM
hear yas J/B,,mine did great yesterday,about 100 miles of backroads, the old lady was complaining about pain in the seat region ,,hahhaha,told her well I,ll take you home ,,,did that,, and no more seat pain !!!!

blackjx
06-17-2013, 5:54 PM
I have nothin against ironheads. I spent a half a decade riding one daily AND I still have that '66 and a '67 xlh and a '63 CH. For traveling, however, I choose a bigtwin. Ironheads are great bikes, but many people beat the crap out of them because they just aren't worth as much, so expensive repairs get skipped. Usually when they get rebuilt, all the past, put off repairs need done as well. I've done at least 5 that cost 3500 or so to get right, and many others that should of cost that much, but the owners opted out of doing them right, instead just fixing the immediate problem.

blackout
06-17-2013, 6:26 PM
I'm going to take back what I said avoid the Vtwin hard tail like its the plague. Mine cracked in half right where it mounts at the trans plate. I have patched it up but idk if I trust the bike anymore.

scouperacer
06-17-2013, 6:54 PM
If you can't figure it out, have Andy over at Top Dead Center Cycles in Oxnard check it out. He's a wizard he'll get it straightened out for you.

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 7:09 PM
overloading it with fuel. I'd turn in that mixture screw, stop messing with your enrichener (it's warm in cali I'd assume), and bump your idle up a hair or two and see how well that works out for yas.

How far out is your accel pump screw?

Ok, will turn fuel/air screw in, and not use the enrichener and give it a go. It's nice and hot in the afternoon, 55ish in the morning, not bad at all here on the coastline. Just bought a feeler gauge so I'm gonna check the points.

xllance
06-17-2013, 7:16 PM
You'd be smart buying a new set of plugs too. Or really clean those good.

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 7:54 PM
You'd be smart buying a new set of plugs too. Or really clean those good.

Damn, I literally just bought those like a month ago...

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 8:33 PM
Well I now feel like a complete fucking moron. First time i've taken the timing cover off(first clue) and to my surprise, it's a Dyna electronic ignition, not points! I remember we were gonna use points, but I did a lot of drugs so I may have forgotten we decided not to go with points. Either way, it's a Dyna electronic ignition.

junkyardxl
06-17-2013, 8:40 PM
Ive got both set ups coming in. 1200 with thunderstorm heads, and a hammer 1250 with stock heads. Will report back on 1250 first that goes on this week

xllance
06-17-2013, 9:10 PM
Well I now feel like a complete fucking moron. First time i've taken the timing cover off(first clue) and to my surprise, it's a Dyna electronic ignition, not points! I remember we were gonna use points, but I did a lot of drugs so I may have forgotten we decided not to go with points. Either way, it's a Dyna electronic ignition.
So are the plugs and wires resistor type ?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 9:14 PM
Sorry, not sure what you mean. It looks like this
40356


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TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 9:28 PM
40359


Sent using Tapatalk

Jackfrost
06-17-2013, 9:31 PM
You say thunderstorms are not woth it on price any more huh would there be problems fitting 04 heads on my 02? I'm pretty much set ob the 1200 I think for my needs its plenty of power and with the money I'd save I'd like to out it where its gonna do the most good.



04 heads fit but have bigger fins so I'm not sure how they look on the older jugs. But like Evidence said you can just specify 04+ jugs when you order your kit.

xllance
06-17-2013, 9:33 PM
Sorry, not sure what you mean. It looks like this
40356


Sent using Tapatalk

Your spark plugs and wires should be resistor type when running electronic ignition (non points).

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 9:46 PM
I see, I did not know that. I've never heard that before. The spark plugs are stock HD 4R5, which is in their book as used as stock plugs for a 75 Ironhead, so I'm gonna guess they are not resistor type. The plug wires just have text "7mm suppression cable" on them so i have no clue.


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junkyardxl
06-17-2013, 10:04 PM
The heads bolt up fine but the front motor mount will have to be changed. 04 1200 heads are great and even the 883 heads handle more power with 7mm valves and the beehive springs will hold up to a 560 cam compared to the old heads topping out at 500.
I just picked up some thunderstorm heads for 200 bucks shipped. Btw.

xllance
06-17-2013, 10:16 PM
I see, I did not know that. I've never heard that before. The spark plugs are stock HD 4R5, which is in their book as used as stock plugs for a 75 Ironhead, so I'm gonna guess they are not resistor type. The plug wires just have text "7mm suppression cable" on them so i have no clue.


Sent using Tapatalk

Usually an "R" on the plug designates resistor and yes supression core wires is what you need. So on to the problem....have you checked your battery to see if it's putting out enough voltage when you rev the engine ?

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 10:25 PM
I have not but the battery is new also, I got it when I replaced the generator and regulator about 2 months ago. The lights don't dim or get brighter when I rev the engine, but I admit I have not checked the voltage. Might have to buy one now though.

One thing I have forgotten to mentioned. Not sure if this will help but when I'm kicking the bike, the first kick always sounds like it's gonna start but then it doesn't. Then I go through kicking for a few minutes, coughs through the carb, a pop out of the exhaust, a kick back, and then will fire up suddenly. Not sure what all these symptoms are caused by, but I know it's not from being setup right!

xllance
06-17-2013, 10:29 PM
I have not but the battery is new also, I got it when I replaced the generator and regulator about 2 months ago. The lights don't dim or get brighter when I rev the engine, but I admit I have not checked the voltage. Might have to buy one now though.

One thing I have forgotten to mentioned. Not sure if this will help but when I'm kicking the bike, the first kick always sounds like it's gonna start but then it doesn't. Then I go through kicking for a few minutes, coughs through the carb, a pop out of the exhaust, a kick back, and then will fire up suddenly. Not sure what all these symptoms are caused by, but I know it's not from being setup right!

I would make damn sure the valves are adjusted right to start with. I mean BY THE BOOK !!

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 10:41 PM
Well that sucks. Ok, gonna have to see about that. Is that what is most likely causing my issues?

xllance
06-17-2013, 11:09 PM
Could be. Coughing out the carb AND the exhaust tells me that it's likely the valves are too tight (not closing all the way). Don't be upset if that's the issue. It's just a matter of getting them DEAD ON plus you'll have leaned a lesson.

TodoMotoSalty
06-17-2013, 11:19 PM
Right on, that's what it's all about right? Learning so you can spend more time riding. Gonna have to get on that this weekend. Got training rest of the week during daylight. Thanks for all the help xllance and everyone, I really appreciate. I keep yall posted.

LoFi66
06-18-2013, 7:01 AM
Hey dudes,

This is my first post. Im having trouble getting my 01' 883's brake lights to work. Im trying to wire up a no school choppers taillight, and I can't get the rear brake to illuminate the taillight. Im using the original sporty wire harness to wire it to. I've got the running lights right, as well as the front brake. Which wire is for the rear brake?

Thanks in advance

hillakilla
06-18-2013, 7:27 AM
i've got a 2002 sportster with burly slammer shocks, and it gets shaky/wobbly when cornering with a passenger.
is there anything i can do to eliminate or reduce this? could it be loose swingarm bearings (i haven't checked them out yet)?

i'm planning to get some new shocks that are a little taller anyway. do some shocks have more lateral stability than others?

thanks guys.

LoFi66
06-18-2013, 8:21 AM
oops, looks like i have a faulty brake light switch

nastycitydago
06-18-2013, 8:25 AM
i've got a 2002 sportster with burly slammer shocks, and it gets shaky/wobbly when cornering with a passenger.
is there anything i can do to eliminate or reduce this? could it be loose swingarm bearings (i haven't checked them out yet)?

i'm planning to get some new shocks that are a little taller anyway. do some shocks have more lateral stability than others?

thanks guys.

Mine gets wobbly when tire pressure is off.

psychokat
06-18-2013, 11:27 AM
I am waiting for winter to paint it. Just finished the efi to SU carb conversion, and am playing with the new ignition's advance curve. I decided not to hardtail it ( I have two rigids already), but I am going to reshape the tail end to try and make it cooler looking.

TodoMotoSalty
06-18-2013, 12:53 PM
A little update, I turned the mixture screw in about 1/8, anymore and it dies out. I turned the idle screw in a bit over 1/4. Did not use the enrichener, key off, primed through once, key on and after about three kicks the bike fired up. I have to really let it warm up good otherwise it'll die when I put it in gear. No backfires the last few times.
Was coughing/sputtering out the exhaust a little at low rpms so I backed the mixture screw just a hair and and that seems to have stopped.
And this extremely long thread of mixed issues and problems is a great way of getting people lost while trying to follow a specific one.

nastycitydago
06-18-2013, 9:48 PM
I have a 93 1200 sporty .What can I upgrade for performance without breaking the bank? Should I go to the 1250 or is it a waste of money?

nastycitydago
06-18-2013, 10:25 PM
What year thunderstorm heads do i buy for a 93 1200 xlh? Which models would my sporty benefit from? Thanks

xllance
06-18-2013, 11:22 PM
A little update, I turned the mixture screw in about 1/8, anymore and it dies out. I turned the idle screw in a bit over 1/4. Did not use the enrichener, key off, primed through once, key on and after about three kicks the bike fired up. I have to really let it warm up good otherwise it'll die when I put it in gear. No backfires the last few times.
Was coughing/sputtering out the exhaust a little at low rpms so I backed the mixture screw just a hair and and that seems to have stopped.
And this extremely long thread of mixed issues and problems is a great way of getting people lost while trying to follow a specific one.

Yes it sucks trying to follow a specific thread on here. I usually don't even check it. Did you not adjust the valves ?

TodoMotoSalty
06-19-2013, 11:06 PM
Yes it sucks trying to follow a specific thread on here. I usually don't even check it. Did you not adjust the valves ?

Yes, I checked the valves today, they felt good but I adjusted them anyways. Started up faster but I still need to get new plugs. I'm sure that will help too since mine are jacked. Plus I wanna see if my carb is still set too rich.

lowpala
06-23-2013, 1:42 PM
Got a -81 1000cc Iron sportster.. Any tips on what carb i should use?
Have a really small Mikuni and it seems like its not giving it enough gas..
Thanks!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1044746_10151511291269702_396670375_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1011940_10151511291239702_742990075_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/430133_10151511291659702_1404817631_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1016113_10151511291249702_485248064_n.jpg

scout41
06-25-2013, 6:05 PM
I'm trying to get by bike buttoned up and was trying to fire it after sitting for eight months, before I redo the wiring ala bill's evo rewire thread. So I've got the stock loom on, shot gas to the carb, turned it over and bam! It's backfiring. I did cap the carb and petcock vacuums btw.

Just to paint a picture, the carb fell off the bench and I bought a new top cover. I also bought 7mm plug wire, just eBay new type cloth covered wire and reused the old fittings. I did change the exhaust, made a crazy orange type that goosenecks at the bottom. It was jetted out for 2" drags. Anyway I did have spark but it looked weak, blue but the a tiny spark at the first part of the firing sequence. I'm pretty damn sure my plug connectors are on, I didn't break any strands, turned the wire down and copied how the stock crimp connectors attached.
I'm used to points, usually backfiring indicates too much gap? I'm clueless on this one. Maybe I'd be better off tearing the whole loom off, but I'd rather know it ran before I rip into it.

GermanG
06-26-2013, 4:09 AM
[QUOTE=lowpala;511673]Got a -81 1000cc Iron sportster.. Any tips on what carb i should use?
Have a really small Mikuni and it seems like its not giving it enough gas..
Thanks!

You can start a long discussion about this. There are lots of different opinions and experiences.
I have a S&S Super E on one of my IH and a 40mm Dellorto on the other. Both start and run fine, but the Dellorto burns about 20% more gas and is more difficolt to tune, because there are very many optiones.
What size is your Mikuni? Saw them on many IH, but do not have first hand information about them.

I do not know what regular maintenace you have done. Before buying an other carb I would check points, condensor, advance weight assembly, ignition timing and pushrods. Pushrods not closing valves completly cause a loss in power. (you find " how to" informations on you tube)

If ALL of this is spot on, you can start tuning your carb, try different size jets and read your plugs. Lose in power might be jets to big or to small causing lean or to rich mixture. May be there is a tuning instruction for your carb on the mikuni home page. Good luck!

TwoLaneFever
06-26-2013, 4:54 PM
think the normal mikuni size for sporty is 38 -mm,for stock cams ,40 for a big bore ,cammed up bike,but try sudco, they are mikuni suppliers, they could set you straight,with their info.

lowpala
07-01-2013, 3:07 PM
[QUOTE=lowpala;511673]Got a -81 1000cc Iron sportster.. Any tips on what carb i should use?
Have a really small Mikuni and it seems like its not giving it enough gas..
Thanks!

You can start a long discussion about this. There are lots of different opinions and experiences.
I have a S&S Super E on one of my IH and a 40mm Dellorto on the other. Both start and run fine, but the Dellorto burns about 20% more gas and is more difficolt to tune, because there are very many optiones.
What size is your Mikuni? Saw them on many IH, but do not have first hand information about them.

I do not know what regular maintenace you have done. Before buying an other carb I would check points, condensor, advance weight assembly, ignition timing and pushrods. Pushrods not closing valves completly cause a loss in power. (you find " how to" informations on you tube)

If ALL of this is spot on, you can start tuning your carb, try different size jets and read your plugs. Lose in power might be jets to big or to small causing lean or to rich mixture. May be there is a tuning instruction for your carb on the mikuni home page. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply. I think mine starts in the early 30mm.. Its to small tough. Already checked with a local harley dude that knows alot.. Well i hope so ;)
anyways he said becouse of my exhaust it can be hard to get the carb to run perfectly but he gave me an phone nr to a guy who builds diffirent carbs after specifics. Ill try calling him to get mine exaclty right and tune it when i try it out.
Maintenace has been done but ill take a extra look this week. Right now im rebuilding my frontend,, :)
Going with Builtwell's slimline risers and windows bar aswell.

(wrong risers in the pic..)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/945367_10151525823144702_727295974_n.jpg

ironlung21
07-02-2013, 3:16 PM
i dont know where to start i have manual and simplfied diagram.
i have a 74 kickonly ironhead
if anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciate

Stlmikie
07-02-2013, 6:28 PM
I'm getting ready to install a engine in a 93 1200. Which side is best to bring the engine in from?

MIKE47
07-02-2013, 6:44 PM
I'm getting ready to install a engine in a 93 1200. Which side is best to bring the engine in from?

Mikie, you can put it in from the r/s of the bike standing upright. Get a friend and of course tape cardboard to the frame if it's already painted up nice. If not that way you can lay the engine on the r/s and swing the frame onto it but that way I have had to take the rear rocker box cover off first or it'll hit the bottom of the backbone.

Stlmikie
07-02-2013, 7:00 PM
Thanks Mike.

Itsjustmetal
07-04-2013, 5:23 PM
Question on changing jets? I have a 2003 sportster 1200 which had stock filter and super short pipes and my Indy shop went with some different jets. I believe he went a little larger because of the short exhaust. Now I have ditched the stock filter and have gone to a velocity stack. Now I know I need to go larger jets but any recommendations if I should go 1 size or 2 sizes larger?

farmall
07-04-2013, 8:01 PM
I'd try riding it first with the stack and see how it actually behaves.

nastycitydago
07-06-2013, 9:01 PM
what are the four boxes attached to the rear fender called? would i be able to relocate or even chop em off??? trying to remove all unnecessary wires. thanks

texpike
07-09-2013, 5:00 AM
Quick question for those of you who have painted your bikes.

I got an 04 sporty roadster 1200. I got a set of tins for paint, and to paint the rear fender i pulled off the plastic mudflap thing off of it. I drilled out the rivets and got everything off. However, now im at a loss as to what would be the best way to get it back on. Do yall normally put the flap back on or leave it off? If you do put it back on, whats the best way to re-attach it? Re-rivet or maybe some smallish nuts and bolts? Idk.

CriminalKZ
07-09-2013, 10:09 AM
So, I have a 97 Sportster 1200 and the tail light does not work but the brake light does. I replaced the bulb, still nothing. When I put the ignition in the ACC position I get no lights at all. Could this be the fuse? I checked for loose connections under the seat, fender and at the front of the bike. Everything looks good from what I can see. I dismissed it as a fuse issue because I get all lights except tail light when the bike is ON. Any help would be great. I have 2 hours to fix this before I head to work for the night. I can't ride without a tail light because 1 it's fucking dangerous and 2 i don't exactly have what most people call a Driver's License. Thanks for any help.

nastycitydago
07-09-2013, 12:58 PM
Try removin the bulb and flip connections. Same thing happended to me and drove me nuts. But it ended up the bulb wasn't pushed in all the way. Make sure your tail light isn't wiggling also... Gone through at least 3 bulbs popping. Lol

texpike
07-09-2013, 5:15 PM
Quick question for those of you who have painted your bikes.

I got an 04 sporty roadster 1200. I got a set of tins for paint, and to paint the rear fender i pulled off the plastic mudflap thing off of it. I drilled out the rivets and got everything off. However, now im at a loss as to what would be the best way to get it back on. Do yall normally put the flap back on or leave it off? If you do put it back on, whats the best way to re-attach it? Re-rivet or maybe some smallish nuts and bolts? Idk.


Nvm a buddy had a rivet gun and some rivets that fit good enough. Problem solved 👍

Stlmikie
07-09-2013, 7:40 PM
Ok. What size and pitch are the rear motor mount bolts on a 93' 1200? 3/8x24? 3/8x16?

Stlmikie
07-16-2013, 6:35 AM
They are 3/8 x 24 for future reference.

MIKE47
07-17-2013, 6:57 AM
They are 3/8 x 24 for future reference.

Mikie I couldn't find that pic of the starter lever in my files but I just looked and it's posted in our chop market listing on the current last page. Scroll down some and you'll see it. I suck at links but lets try:

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6516&page=3

krowpickin
07-17-2013, 10:43 AM
So I was looking around a bit on the cheap autometer bracket speedo relocation. The question i have is that all the relocations seem to have electronic speedos. My bike is a 93 so i have a mechanical. has anyone done this mod with success? any problems? Where did you move the horn to? Thanks guys!

hankhill
07-27-2013, 1:49 PM
dumb question butt, will a stock 2000 sporty throttle cable setup work on a super e?

Stlmikie
07-28-2013, 10:46 AM
Can you post a photo of your broke cover?

toast
07-29-2013, 12:33 AM
Tried searching but couldn't seem to find anything that i was looking for. Anybody have, or has worked on, an 09 1200C and done anything to change the wonky-ass riser while keeping the stock speedo?

Stlmikie
07-29-2013, 4:38 AM
This is what yours looked like.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd310/stlmikie/null-4.jpg

This is what they look like on a later model.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd310/stlmikie/null-5.jpg

The way I see it is buy another cover or fab up a bracket like the newer that comes up off the frame.


Hre is my sprocket cover.

Josh12730
07-29-2013, 6:04 PM
Is there a way to tell what years the wheels for sportster are? I have a set of mags I need to sell for a friend that he got in trade and I am trying to find out what year they are from to list them correctly

ATNasty
07-30-2013, 2:33 AM
This is what yours looked like.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd310/stlmikie/null-4.jpg

This is what they look like on a later model.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd310/stlmikie/null-5.jpg

The way I see it is buy another cover or fab up a bracket like the newer that comes up off the frame.

I like the later models better.. I ordered the cover today.. gonna do that mod one day though. Thanks!

sos314
07-30-2013, 10:29 AM
So I have a 1996 XLH1200S that's been chopped up a bit, had it for a couple months now. Actually bought it from Indiana courtesy of a ChopCult classified listing. Went to finally change the oil in it yesterday and I can't find the oil drain hose. According to the manual, the hose looks like it should be behind the primary by the swing arm, but it's not. There are no hoses anywhere around there except the rear brake line. There are several hoses come from the oil tank but I'm not sure which one would be the drain hose and I don't want to drain the oil from the wrong spot.

Any suggestions? I realize pics would probably help more and I'm posting this from work on a rainy day, so no motorcycle with me. Genius plan, eh? Just looking for a good starting point. Thanks!

GermanG
07-30-2013, 12:00 PM
So I just got that 97 sportster hugger and when I took off the tank and front fender I noticed that the front wheel doesn't line up with the handle bars.. turns out the forks and front wheel are bent. Is there anything else I should check like the triple tree, rotor, axle? and is there any specific way I should do it?

Is it realy bent or just twisted? If you losen the bolts on the fork trees, the front fender and the wheel spindle nut and the screw on the fork leg, you can turn it back, turning the handlebar.

If it is bent, you need to to check each part of the fork and the frame. This is a job for a professional.

Braaap
07-30-2013, 12:08 PM
So I have a 1996 XLH1200S that's been chopped up a bit, had it for a couple months now. Actually bought it from Indiana courtesy of a ChopCult classified listing. Went to finally change the oil in it yesterday and I can't find the oil drain hose. According to the manual, the hose looks like it should be behind the primary by the swing arm, but it's not. There are no hoses anywhere around there except the rear brake line. There are several hoses come from the oil tank but I'm not sure which one would be the drain hose and I don't want to drain the oil from the wrong spot.

Any suggestions? I realize pics would probably help more and I'm posting this from work on a rainy day, so no motorcycle with me. Genius plan, eh? Just looking for a good starting point. Thanks!

i am certainly no expert so i hesitate to even type this, but if it was me i'd be looking for one hose on the oil tank that sits the lowest and i'd pull that one. if you "drain the oil from the wrong spot" what's the worst that can happen? you don't get all of it? i'd pull the lowest one, gravity is your friend.


that said i'm sure a pic would help some and i'm sure there are people on here with better, more definitive advice than me.

maxcapacity
07-30-2013, 12:41 PM
i am certainly no expert so i hesitate to even type this, but if it was me i'd be looking for one hose on the oil tank that sits the lowest and i'd pull that one. if you "drain the oil from the wrong spot" what's the worst that can happen? you don't get all of it? i'd pull the lowest one, gravity is your friend.


that said i'm sure a pic would help some and i'm sure there are people on here with better, more definitive advice than me.

It should be plugged into a slug on the back side of the exhaust bracket. It's easier to locate from the primary side. Having said that, if being "chopped up a bit" includes removing the OE exhaust mounting hardward you might not find it in that configuration. In any case, it should be the lowest one on the bag.

hillakilla
07-31-2013, 6:05 AM
i'm changing my rear tire on a 2002 sportster. the axle spacer on the left side has a little groove in it all the way around, off center. which way does this spacer go, or does it not matter?

threat357
07-31-2013, 7:15 AM
i'm changing my rear tire on a 2002 sportster. the axle spacer on the left side has a little groove in it all the way around, off center. which way does this spacer go, or does it not matter?

Doesn't matter, but I always install 'em groove out.

threat357
07-31-2013, 7:19 AM
What would I need to do to put a 2010 nightster front end on a 97 sportster Hugger? I know I would need to run a nightster wheel and brake caliper.. But could I put the 97 sliders on the nightster fork tubes? The. Get a 97 front wheel and leave the caliper? Also if I run the nightster wheel and brake caliper does it matter that my back axle is that of a 97? I know the new nightster a are 25mm on front and back. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The 97 & 2010 fork tubes are the same. Sliders are different. 97 sliders and wheel use 3/4" axle, 2010 sliders and wheel use 25mm axle. This means wheel bearings and spacers are also different. Rear axle size doesn't matter.

hillakilla
07-31-2013, 7:54 AM
Doesn't matter, but I always install 'em groove out.

groovy man, thanks. i looked at it for a bit and couldn't imagine how it would make a difference, but figured it doesn't hurt or cost anything to get a second opinion. plus i have to wait til this evening to get in my buddy's garage to put the tire back on anyway.

threat357
07-31-2013, 6:20 PM
Does anyone know if the 08 and up sportster front wheel, rotor and caliper are the same as the 2010 nightster?

As long as you're talking about an 08 & later single disc sporty, yes.

BigRod13
08-01-2013, 8:30 PM
Does anyone know the final drive ratio for 4 and 5 speeds? Are they the same, or is 5th an overdrive gear?

RetroRob
08-08-2013, 8:47 PM
For some reason I can't paste these pics from my iPad,

Probably the nicest sporty I've seen

http://www.bikeexif.com/harley-sportster-custom-7

BigRod13
08-08-2013, 8:50 PM
What the hell man?! I got all excited, thought someone had answered my question! Seriously though, cool link

hellamopeds
08-12-2013, 4:43 PM
For some reason I can't paste these pics from my iPad,

Probably the nicest sporty I've seen

http://www.bikeexif.com/harley-sportster-custom-7

Meh
Chyeah --> http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2013/8/1/03-harley-sportster-dp-customs.html

ATNasty
08-14-2013, 5:03 AM
So.. I got some cheap struts off eBay for my sportster and they didn't come with the hard ware to mount them.. The stock stuff doesn't fit. Does anyone know where I can get some mounting bolts for this?

Stlmikie
08-14-2013, 12:42 PM
Ok. I would think that if you know what you need that you could go to any hardware store ie Home Depot or lowes and find it. You might be surprised what you find.



So.. I got some cheap struts off eBay for my sportster and they didn't come with the hard ware to mount them.. The stock stuff doesn't fit. Does anyone know where I can get some mounting bolts for this?

TwoLaneFever
08-14-2013, 7:30 PM
^^^^^as far as hard ware goes in VA, we have NORTHWEST(true value) HARDWARE, they have allen heads, acorn s,.chrome plated ,selection is pretty thorough 1/4, 20 up to 1"" and over,,,,and then the normal bolts in stainless and few cad plated,,,, prices good ,,just saying(mile in)

crodriguez
08-15-2013, 6:10 AM
I got a question about fork tubes...

I have a 2006 Sportster Low. I wanna go 6 over--will I run into any issues swapping my stock tubes with extended ones?

nastycitydago
08-15-2013, 9:29 AM
I wouldn't. Prolly have fucked up handling. You could take the neck and make the bike level.

BigRod13
08-15-2013, 9:42 AM
I don't think it would fuck up the handling that much. Assuming the same everything else, you'd only change your trail a little bit. It might look a bit out of place, and you'd definitely have to run new front brake lines (or at least a longer bottom soft line), but I can't imagine that it would be very detrimental

TwoLaneFever
08-15-2013, 7:51 PM
I got a question about fork tubes...

I have a 2006 Sportster Low. I wanna go 6 over--will I run into any issues swapping my stock tubes with extended ones?

like maybe longer hose need,ed for front brake line and if running stock speedo, maybe longer cable for it ,raiseing center of gravity will give different feel in leaning ( corner time )also my need to add filler tubes in forks (,takes up slack when extending a front end using stock length springs

ATNasty
08-26-2013, 3:15 AM
I have a 97 sportster 883 hugger that i got about a month ago.. i have been replacing and cleaning a bunch of stuff on it. It is running like shit though.. has a hard time holding an idle and when you give it gas it dies. I just cleaned the carb and put new spark plugs and battery. Is there something that I need to adjust? any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks

TwoLaneFever
08-26-2013, 5:37 AM
for you gurus,,, tell me what the timeing plate with the long slots came off ?know timeing platewith short slots, is iron head but one with long slots was giving me fits and points where sloppy in mounting hole, just thinking it is late model or a shovel timeing plate ,,just wondering what was on the bike

BrokenSprocketGarage
08-26-2013, 5:42 AM
I have a 97 sportster 883 hugger that i got about a month ago.. i have been replacing and cleaning a bunch of stuff on it. It is running like shit though.. has a hard time holding an idle and when you give it gas it dies. I just cleaned the carb and put new spark plugs and battery. Is there something that I need to adjust? any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks

replace the intake manifold seals and carb to manifold seal. replace slow speed jet in carb, should be a 42 if stock.

TurnerR
08-26-2013, 6:02 AM
I got a question about fork tubes...

I have a 2006 Sportster Low. I wanna go 6 over--will I run into any issues swapping my stock tubes with extended ones?

I found a thread last night asking similar, and while you may run into some small issues, I don't think it would be a big deal. Peaches bike isn't a rubber mount but should give you an idea. His shocks are really short. Look like slammers. Doesn't look very bad at all as far as rake goes. I may do the same as him.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27978

GermanG
08-26-2013, 12:06 PM
for you gurus,,, tell me what the timeing plate with the long slots came off ?know timeing platewith short slots, is iron head but one with long slots was giving me fits and points where sloppy ing mounting hole, just thinking it is late model or a shovel timeing plate ,,just wondering what was on the bike

The one with the long slots have been filled out. That is sometimes necessary, when you convert from electronic to points ignition.

TwoLaneFever
08-26-2013, 7:22 PM
The one with the long slots have been filled out. That is sometimes necessary, when you convert from electronic to points ignition.

thanks Gman,,been trying to get it to work right for a while ,just seemed odd, the amount of adjust ment,,needed, the points where loose in lower hole where the points pin fits,,but also saw that when went back to older style plate, the setting for timeing was almost pegged out to one side ,,maybe need to use that plate ,when put on older plate got a flame outta carb so was thinking wtf?converted back to zenith carb,and older style point plate,and not cooperateing with me , may switch back to longslot plate and see what happens ,,hope they didn,t get cams off a bit when they setup the conversion(late model topend ) done sometime in past ,haven't opened cam cover yet,, but may have to , if cant get this sorted ,alls cool just did that a few weeks back on a buds bike, and its running pretty good know so we got the cams right

Josh12730
08-27-2013, 9:02 AM
Is there a way to tell what years the wheels for sportster are? I have a set of mags I need to sell for a friend that he got in trade and I am trying to find out what year they are from to list them correctly

GermanG
08-27-2013, 10:03 AM
thanks Gman,,been trying to get it to work right for a while ,just seemed odd, the amount of adjust ment,,needed, the points where loose in lower hole where the points pin fits,,but also saw that when went back to older style plate, the setting for timeing was almost pegged out to one side ,,maybe need to use that plate ,when put on older plate got a flame outta carb so was thinking wtf?converted back to zenith carb,and older style point plate,and not cooperateing with me , may switch back to longslot plate and see what happens ,,hope they didn,t get cams off a bit when they setup the conversion(late model topend ) done sometime in past ,haven't opened cam cover yet,, but may have to , if cant get this sorted ,alls cool just did that a few weeks back on a buds bike, and its running pretty good know so we got the cams right

Timing of a little might be possible. One finds the strangest things in these engines, that went through so many hands! Good luck!

TwoLaneFever
08-27-2013, 8:08 PM
Timing of a little might be possible. One finds the strangest things in these engines, that went through so many hands! Good luck!thanks for the info this bike is modded with later model top end ,just not sure what other things where converted ,like do the flweights from electronic ignition model differ from those of points ingnition? wouldn,t think they would be different, nor think the cams would be different in a electronic ignition setup to a points ingnition setup, but they might have dropped in 1979 cams in the 1972 cases as well ,with the 1979 topend that is on it ,,oh well working the bugs out a bit ,by bit ,but it came a long way in 10 months I had it in the family ,,,thanks for the knowledge ,at my age it is fun, if not a learning experience hahhaha

TwoLaneFever
08-28-2013, 6:17 PM
had to use the long slot, point plate, but it is still almost pegged out to one side ,at least it is running pretty good,thinking there is more to figure out on this one,,noticed the advance unit is hard to advance by hand not stiff but a lot of tension on flyweight springs,,think race springs or some other crazy stuff in there

GermanG
08-29-2013, 1:23 PM
had to use the long slot, point plate, but it is still almost pegged out to one side ,at least it is running pretty good,thinking there is more to figure out on this one,,noticed the advance unit is hard to advance by hand not stiff but a lot of tension on flyweight springs,,think race springs or some other crazy stuff in there

Mine looks the same. I only use blue streak points and condensors. The points have the little piece of felt mounted, that lubricates the cam and makes them last longer. Also only use rivera-primo advance units. The last long if lubricated regular (1000 miles).
Some advance units come with 3 different colored sets of springs. Black, silver,gold. The stiffer the spring, the later full advance. I normaly use the black ones (soft), but once used the gold ones on a bike that hesitated in town traffic, throttle just open and it solved the problem.
I mark the point plate, when timing is set. Warm the engine up to working temperature, then set the carb so the engine is reving about 2000rpm, advance unit full open max. advance. Unscrew the point plate a little and rotate point plate slowly forward and backward to find the spot giving the highest rpm.
Set the carb back just a little higher than idle, turn mixture adjusting screw inwards and outwards to find the spot giving the highest rpm.
You have to be quick, so that the engine does not get to hot. :D Perfect!:)

GermanG
08-29-2013, 1:49 PM
had to use the long slot, point plate, but it is still almost pegged out to one side ,at least it is running pretty good,thinking there is more to figure out on this one,,noticed the advance unit is hard to advance by hand not stiff but a lot of tension on flyweight springs,,think race springs or some other crazy stuff in there

Also read the thread "timing inspection plug" great advice there by brooklynbomber!

TwoLaneFever
08-29-2013, 3:14 PM
thanks gman,,,the old girl(72) is a picky sort but will do my bidding haha

BrokenSprocketGarage
08-29-2013, 8:07 PM
Is there a way to tell what years the wheels for sportster are? I have a set of mags I need to sell for a friend that he got in trade and I am trying to find out what year they are from to list them correctly
Dismount tires and look for part number stamped in wheel. Post some pics...

TwoLaneFever
09-03-2013, 6:39 PM
[QUOTE=GermanG;535998
Some advance units come with 3 different colored sets of springs. Black, silver,gold. The stiffer the spring, the later full advance. I normaly use the black ones (soft), but once used the gold ones )[/QUOTE]

hey gman ,,seems these are gold from what they look like to me ,,thanks for advice and info,, Bike is getting better day in ,day out(sorry for crappy pic )

TwoLaneFever
09-03-2013, 6:49 PM
Question about the COMPEANSATEING SPROKET,,,, if the spring in this sucker is weak, will you get bucking when clutch in at a stop ? I figure this is next on list of" gotta haves"

GermanG
09-05-2013, 7:48 AM
Question about the COMPEANSATEING SPROKET,,,, if the spring in this sucker is weak, will you get bucking when clutch in at a stop ? I figure this is next on list of" gotta haves"

Bucking? it is not crawling, but tries to move forward in intervals? This might be the primary chain adjusted to tight. when the primary chain is worn, it does have tight and loose spots. Just like a rear chain. Then, if adjusted to tight, the tight spots will pull the clutch basket forward and the steel drive plates will be touching the outer basket. The recommendation in the old days (1980) was: 3 rear chains, one primary chain. Quality of stuff has improved a lot, but I would have a look at the primary chain, replace if there is sign of wear, new lining and new clutch basbet bearing. About 100$, that is far cheaper than getting the cases welded. When you open your primary case, go and close the oil transfer valve and if you have lots of money replace the compensation sprocket with the rigid motor sprocket and nut.

TwoLaneFever
09-05-2013, 8:48 PM
bucking was a weird way of describeing it ,the primary chain is the culprit, then ,it does have loose and tight spots in it ,,thanks g man,,,,

sos314
09-07-2013, 11:37 AM
So I changed the rear brake pads and rebuilt the rear caliper, put it all back together, works great, but now the brake light doesn't come on unless I seriously mash down the pedal, to the point of locking up the tire and skidding. I'm all for being showy sometimes, but I'd rather not have my options be 1) brake light on while skidding or 2) no skidding/no brake light. Cops apparently don't think the trade off is justified. What would I adjust to get the light to trigger when I first tap the brakes?

BrokenSprocketGarage
09-07-2013, 12:28 PM
So I changed the rear brake pads and rebuilt the rear caliper, put it all back together, works great, but now the brake light doesn't come on unless I seriously mash down the pedal, to the point of locking up the tire and skidding. I'm all for being showy sometimes, but I'd rather not have my options be 1) brake light on while skidding or 2) no skidding/no brake light. Cops apparently don't think the trade off is justified. What would I adjust to get the light to trigger when I first tap the brakes?

You have to replace the hydraulic brake light switch that is threaded into the rear brake line

TwoLaneFever
09-08-2013, 7:49 PM
This is something to look out for, if you are having trouble in the points/ timeing area on a iron head sporty,today I discovered another worm showing it,s head,,this may have been caused by advance unit cam, being installed 180 out on the flyweight unit itself,, notice the pin !!!a 45 cent fix that will give you a big headache,,,,if you don't catch this ,inspect> all< parts if having troubles getting points to work correctly

GermanG
09-09-2013, 6:49 AM
...being installed 180 out on the flyweight unit, using a big hammer! :clap for you:
Thanks for the pics and info!

audioslave
09-09-2013, 10:58 AM
Does anybody know if lowbrows 2.2g sportster tank for 96-03 models would fit a 1995 model?

What's the difference between the '95 and '96?

http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p412/buy/m-c-parts/gas-tanks-amp-accessories/gas-tanks/cleveland-cyclewerks-sporty-chopper-motorcycle-gas-tank-stock-1996-2003-mounts/

Appreciate help.

TwoLaneFever
09-12-2013, 5:50 PM
The results are in,,, if thinking your points are the culprit of shitty running ,maybe not,, try adjusting the pushrods!!!!!!!months trying to figure it out ,,and bam, after pulling cams adjusted the p/rods,,, DAMN,,,, THAT WAS THE PROBLEM!!!put all back in,, run like a different bike didnt think it would do that if Pushrods out of adj,,but if you think it is points screwing up,,not always,maybe time to adjust the pushrods:banghead:

junkyardxl
09-12-2013, 5:57 PM
Does anybody know if lowbrows 2.2g sportster tank for 96-03 models would fit a 1995 model?

What's the difference between the '95 and '96?

http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p412/buy/m-c-parts/gas-tanks-amp-accessories/gas-tanks/cleveland-cyclewerks-sporty-chopper-motorcycle-gas-tank-stock-1996-2003-mounts/

Appreciate help.

Spacing for mounts are different lengths apart.

Edster
09-14-2013, 8:13 AM
What would it take to get an old 7 spoke wheel to fit an 03 model, If not the what would it take to get a 9 spoke wheel to fit? Thanks.

sos314
09-14-2013, 7:13 PM
You have to replace the hydraulic brake light switch that is threaded into the rear brake line

But it works, seems odd to replace something that works. It seems more like there should be a way to adjust the point at which it makes contact and turns on. Is that possible?

BrokenSprocketGarage
09-14-2013, 7:22 PM
But it works, seems odd to replace something that works. It seems more like there should be a way to adjust the point at which it makes contact and turns on. Is that possible?

No adjustment in that system. The brake light switch is hydraulic pressure operated. If you apply excessive enough force to make your tire skid, it is not working correctly. The light should come on with a normal brake application. Replace the switch!

ScooterRick
09-16-2013, 5:27 PM
I use Quaker State 10-30 High milage in my pickup and have no problems. So, is this a good choice for my Sportster too?

nate00
09-16-2013, 5:36 PM
No its the wrong viscosity, that "thin" of oil will get hot faster than "thicker" oil and thats really all we have for cooling other than air itself. I run 20w50 in mine year round. Usually whatever brand my indy hands me. haha

BrokenSprocketGarage
09-16-2013, 6:17 PM
20W50 MOTORCYCLE oil.