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View Full Version : Kick only shovel, Clutch basket Question



monkeyoflove
01-07-2013, 8:09 PM
Hey all. I am building a shovel in a swingarm frame with a ratchet top tranny. I will be running the bike kick only with an open primary. My bike came stock with a dry belt primary, which I would like to reuse. Can I get a clutch basket without the e-start ring gear that will work with my setup?? Or do I have to source a whole new belt drive system?

JukeJointGypsy
01-07-2013, 8:12 PM
Hey all. I am building a shovel in a swingarm frame with a ratchet top tranny. I will be running the bike kick only with an open primary. My bike came stock with a dry belt primary, which I would like to reuse. Can I get a clutch basket without the e-start ring gear that will work with my setup?? Or do I have to source a whole new belt drive system?

Just take the starter ring gear off.

pj
01-07-2013, 10:34 PM
What he said, should screw right off.

DannySLC
01-07-2013, 10:59 PM
To answer your question, yes you can get a BDL or the like clutch basket only and just use your clutch hub inside of it.

But yea don't do that, just take off your starter ring gear. If it's not just screwed on then it is just riveted on.

BigOscar
01-07-2013, 11:03 PM
<a href="http://s713.beta.photobucket.com/user/ncaguirre/media/76FLH/b2de829d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww140/ncaguirre/76FLH/b2de829d.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"/></a>

DannySLC
01-07-2013, 11:30 PM
Yeah there's no NEED to take it off, but if you WANT it off then it's easy.

lvvato
01-07-2013, 11:38 PM
Just take the starter ring gear off.

:clap for you: :cheersmate:

monkeyoflove
01-08-2013, 7:49 AM
hanks guys. I was looking for stitch welds or rivets that kept the ring gear on and couldn't find any so, I wasn't sure. Trying to avoid leaving it on there. Ill dig a little deeper

JukeJointGypsy
01-08-2013, 7:55 AM
Shoot me a pic of the back side of the clutch hub. The rivets or welds should be there. If the hub is aluminium it will be riveted. If it's steel then it should be welded.

Sky
01-08-2013, 9:49 PM
Stock Belt drive? Those big 11mm cogs are prone to shearing teeth if not properly tensioned or vented Open=vented, just figure on supporting that trans with an adjuster plate of some sort
Not the stock one? some of those ring gears are just pressed on. And the8mm teeth are a little more forgiving

monkeyoflove
01-08-2013, 10:16 PM
I think its just pressed on. My plan was to align the tranny using the stock inner primary, and run a mainshaft support. Do you think I will need more adjustment than the stock plate will allow, to keep tension on that belt?

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r312/monkeyoflove/photo45_zps04c6b234.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r312/monkeyoflove/photo44_zps6cc55356.jpg

Sky
01-08-2013, 10:40 PM
Setting up tension is easy, not pulling the trans forward with all that mighty big twin torque is the hard part.
You can get an "over-under" trans-mount-plate support, works pretty good
Cut up your old inner primary leaving as much or as little as you want
Get or make a "torque" plate, Fab Kev sells real nice ones

Too much tension is bad too, 1/2" up and down, cold
Alignment is also your belts friend

FootLoose
01-09-2013, 10:49 AM
As stated you really need something to keep that tranny in place...
The over/under adjuster often needs modifying, the adjuster bolts can touch the casing and the holes are round so you can't use the square lock bolts
(or whatever they're called) on the front mount and it's a shitty place to get to with 2 spanners plus bolts heads can interfere.
File the holes square for the oem bolts. The added height of the "over" part plus washer/bolt head hight can also be a pain in the arse.
All in all they're quite a shitty construction anyway and adjusting is a real shitty job under there. Saying that, I do have one of those on my chop,
modified of course...

There's a much better solution in the form of an adjustable trans mount plate incorporating sliding blocks with the gearbox stud holes.
That way the tranny is easily adjusted with an allen key on the back/fender side. No need for a torque-arm unless you make real serious power.
Got one of those tranny mounts set aside for my chop but not worth stripping the bike down for it...
http://www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WebSite.woa/wa/DirectAction?page=!45448

Your clutch basket looks like an 8mm Primo? Think those starter gears are shrunk/pressed on but can check tomorrow if you like.
That friction surface on yours is pretty much shot...The Primo baskets are also available without the starter gear, it's the cheapest version.
If it is the 11mm version then yes, they shear the teeth off the belts. Free play can be quite a bit, 1" is fine with 1/2" being the minimum.
Too loose is better than too tight...

If you want a real good clutch where you don't need that shot friction surface, buy the Rivera rattle set-up, great clutch if you can stand the rattle
when not in use. Which btw is easily cured by a very short'n'quick pull/slap of the clutch lever but you'll have to do it every time after use.
I couldn't live with the rattle in my open belt and prefer the old fashioned rattle when in use only.
Running the rattler in the closed primairy on my FXWG instead, can't even tell if you've put it in gear or not, not even a rear chain slap, it's that good!
I also convert Evo clutches to work on the 4-speed with great succes....Done 10 or so, not that easy to do but works fantastic....

Btw, not too many people seem to know this but belts are also supposed to be lubed....
Keeps them quiet and stops them eating up the pulleys. HD sells it in a tube, called drivebelt lubricant or something like that.
Just put on a dab on the teeth here and there and call it good...

Sky
01-09-2013, 6:45 PM
+1 for lube
Clear silicone spray or automotive belt dressing works, just stay away from anything "sticky"

I disagree, The sliding block type plate w/internal adjusters tend to strip. Not from over turning, but the threads get ripped right out of them. If you could find/make one made with quality materials sure but when they all say Taiwan or Korea, no thanks
Where are the Germans sourcing theirs?

+1 on having to massage the over-under style, stout though. Korea or not

oysterjimmy
01-09-2013, 10:20 PM
Mine was the same. Heat and a mallet will take it off.

rockerjockeyjoe
01-10-2013, 11:12 AM
<a href="http://s713.beta.photobucket.com/user/ncaguirre/media/76FLH/b2de829d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww140/ncaguirre/76FLH/b2de829d.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"/></a>

you may want to run a heat shield tube over your fuel line inbetween the jugs, or the heat will destroy your fuel line and could start a fire.