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View Full Version : sporty belt - chain conversion



speedy
02-09-2010, 10:08 AM
hey quick question, i got a 96 sporty and need to convert it to chain drive for clearance reasons. Was wondering what years had this stock that would bolt on?

jonnyrtn
02-09-2010, 11:56 AM
Go to a good Indy... they will order up your front and rear sprockets and a good Oring chain.

steffan
02-09-2010, 12:49 PM
led sled has a kit i was looking into

MikeD
02-09-2010, 12:54 PM
I'd imagine that Sprocket Specialists is making the sprockets for these chain conversion kits. If anyone knows the part number for the front sprocket by itself, I would be stoked to get that knowledge.

trnrover
02-09-2010, 1:12 PM
led sled has a kit i was looking into

Ouch...good lookin but ouch.

XbrooklynX
02-09-2010, 1:33 PM
I did mine with a Baker buell 530 conversion kit. Buell 530 or 520 conversion kits will bolt up to a sportster wheel and sprocket pattern. It was super easy. The only issue i ran into was i didnt have a socket big enough to get the sprocket off.

here is a good thread off of xlfourm that describes it pretty well

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=13600

WhiteFox
02-09-2010, 6:00 PM
The only issue i ran into was i didnt have a socket big enough to get the sprocket off.

I went to sears and bought the correct size socket and breaker bar (I think it was 1" Drive) went home carefully used it, and returned it back to the store. I just told them it was the wrong size. That shit was like $75, and I'd never use it again!

jonnyrtn
02-09-2010, 7:42 PM
I went to sears and bought the correct size socket and breaker bar (I think it was 1" Drive) went home carefully used it, and returned it back to the store. I just told them it was the wrong size. That shit was like $75, and I'd never use it again!

Go to Harbour Freight and get a complete chineeesee set for $25.00... it aint top of the line but you get tools you can use. I have mostly SnapDaddy, Mac and Crapsman but if is a one time tool or something I need to weld on or grind up.... Harbour Freight cant be beat and you can loan em to your buddies and no lose sleep at night.

XbrooklynX
02-10-2010, 12:08 AM
Yeah the return route was my plan too but I got lazy... I was clearing out the rollaway the other day and found it sitting there in the box looking brand new.

ironlance
02-10-2010, 2:00 AM
http://ledsledcustoms.com/products.asp?id=56&cat_section= looks like a pretty good deal

xllance
02-10-2010, 4:04 AM
http://ledsledcustoms.com/products.asp?id=56&cat_section= looks like a pretty good deal

Drives me nuts when they say "no oil just roll with it" I guarantee you don't oil your chain you aint gettin 30000 miles. Why would they say that?

Homebrew
02-10-2010, 11:59 AM
http://ledsledcustoms.com/products.asp?id=56&cat_section= looks like a pretty good deal

Damn $273 and that is without shipping. Is there a way to just buy the sprockets?

beanhead78
02-10-2010, 12:15 PM
i know the dont have the best reputation but i got my countershaft sprocket from jerih cycles for like 15 bucks,my rear custom chrome sprocket from a local bike shop for like 45 bucks.

Jackieshan
02-10-2010, 7:40 PM
I'm converting my 98 this week when I get some time. I've been looking all over the place to figure it out. Finally I talked to a guy at Baker about their Buell kit. He says I don't need the kit and to just buy the .200 offset front sprocket, the 530 chain, and get a stock '91-'92 rear sprocket. The rear sprocket has a little dish to it and should line up with .200 front sprocket. You should get about a half inch more of clearance. If you need more you can go with a .500 offset front sprocket and use a spacer in the rear. I don't think the spacers are more than 15 bucks. I thought about the led sled kit, but this route saves me about 100 bucks. I'll let you know when I get to it and if it all works out.

Punkskalar
02-10-2010, 7:46 PM
Drives me nuts when they say "no oil just roll with it" I guarantee you don't oil your chain you aint gettin 30000 miles. Why would they say that?

I've never seen a single BAD thing from Led Sled.... If they say it, they probably mean it...

WhiteFox
02-10-2010, 9:51 PM
I don't, and never have oiled my chain. I use wax. :)

xllance
02-11-2010, 2:11 AM
I've never seen a single BAD thing from Led Sled.... If they say it, they probably mean it...

I dig what led sled is all about, but that's a common misconception alot of people have about o-ring chains. They DO need lubed, in fact some even recommend removing the chain every so often and thoroughly cleaning it and lubing it. I've seen chains with no lube----they are rusty and stiff, taking a chance on some major damage when that sucker breaks. I use wax too White fox.

dso
02-11-2010, 10:08 AM
I'm converting my 98 this week when I get some time. I've been looking all over the place to figure it out. Finally I talked to a guy at Baker about their Buell kit. He says I don't need the kit and to just buy the .200 offset front sprocket, the 530 chain, and get a stock '91-'92 rear sprocket. The rear sprocket has a little dish to it and should line up with .200 front sprocket. You should get about a half inch more of clearance. If you need more you can go with a .500 offset front sprocket and use a spacer in the rear. I don't think the spacers are more than 15 bucks. I thought about the led sled kit, but this route saves me about 100 bucks. I'll let you know when I get to it and if it all works out.

I'm looking into doing the conversion too with my 00. While a kit makes life a little easier, at the same time it's pretty pricey and I'd rather save a few bucks to apply toward other parts of my build. When you get the parts and put it together, would you mind posting the part numbers and where you got them from? Thanks in advance

geekdublD
02-13-2010, 10:36 AM
i'd be interested in the p/n's also...i got a fellow geek that did this without buying a kit and still spent around $250.

greenlight23
02-13-2010, 2:15 PM
I got the sprockets and chain the front sprocket has a spacer that goes behind it but i made one with a washer just made the inside of the washer bigger to fit works fine chain is running in line cost about 150 bucks 45min to do

eliwolf6
02-13-2010, 6:53 PM
i just switched my sporty over to a chain last night,, i'll look at the pn's and post em tonight. cost me 150

Romperstomper
02-23-2010, 6:11 PM
did mine a few yrs ago. 02 1200xl I got tired of breaking belts. Spend the extra money on a good o-ring chain DID50VA. First cheap chain wore out in less than a yr. Back sprocket from PBI sprockets DS-325146. Cant remember or find old package where i got front sprocket. Remember front sproket nut is reverse threaded, Chains are quite a bit of maintenance and messy but when you dump the clutch they aint going to be layin in the street with you on the side of the road waitin for a ride home.

HardlyDangerous
02-24-2010, 7:59 PM
I went to sears and bought the correct size socket and breaker bar (I think it was 1" Drive) went home carefully used it, and returned it back to the store. I just told them it was the wrong size. That shit was like $75, and I'd never use it again!


I got a 1 7/8" socket and a 1/2" adapter (the socket is 3/4" drive) for about $15 from Northern Tool

I used Spacer HD#33334-85, Oil Seal HD#12050 don't have numbers for the Quad Ring (funny looking thin square profile Oring) nand front sprocket from I believe a 92 Sporty. Got the rear sprocket off EGay.

dso
02-25-2010, 12:06 AM
one more question to those who have already done it and especially those who did it to a ledsled weldon hardtail. i've got my frame with the hardtail for the stock rear wheel and wondering if i need to go with a flat rear sprocket or a dished? i talked to zippers and they said their kit is a dished sprocket but i have a friend who used a flat rear sprocket on his hardtail conversion so i'm trying to get my conversion figured out without having to buy multiple parts.

edward
02-25-2010, 9:32 AM
i got a kit a few years ago. don't think the company is still in business. took me some time but i finally got it to line up.

jwhite
02-25-2010, 11:46 AM
one more question to those who have already done it and especially those who did it to a ledsled weldon hardtail. i've got my frame with the hardtail for the stock rear wheel and wondering if i need to go with a flat rear sprocket or a dished? i talked to zippers and they said their kit is a dished sprocket but i have a friend who used a flat rear sprocket on his hardtail conversion so i'm trying to get my conversion figured out without having to buy multiple parts.


I've done it and I recommend buying your (O-ring) chain and drive sprocket, then getting your rear wheel in there first to see how it's going to line up. Then figure out if you need a flat or offset rear sprocket. Measure and buy it once. No way to be certain otherwise. I've got a flyrite frame, running stock sporty 3" rear wheel and it required a rear sprocket with a 1/4" offset.

And, I too looked at the Ledsled kit, but it was a little more expensive than buying all the components separately. Plus, didn't know if I needed it offset or not, a one size fits all kit won't always be the best solution.

dso
02-25-2010, 1:16 PM
I've done it and I recommend buying your (O-ring) chain and drive sprocket, then getting your rear wheel in there first to see how it's going to line up. Then figure out if you need a flat or offset rear sprocket. Measure and buy it once. No way to be certain otherwise. I've got a flyrite frame, running stock sporty 3" rear wheel and it required a rear sprocket with a 1/4" offset.

And, I too looked at the Ledsled kit, but it was a little more expensive than buying all the components separately. Plus, didn't know if I needed it offset or not, a one size fits all kit won't always be the best solution.

thanks for the insight on this jwhite, i appreciate the help!

HardlyDangerous
02-25-2010, 2:04 PM
If your hardtail uses stock axle and spacers, It will probably work with a flat sprocket. If not, you have to assemble and measure, then measure again. I kind of did the opposite of Jwhite. I installed a flat rear sprocket and used a straight edge to determine if I needed offset on the drive sprocket. Luckily, I didn't.

jwhite
02-25-2010, 2:23 PM
If your hardtail uses stock axle and spacers, It will probably work with a flat sprocket. If not, you have to assemble and measure, then measure again. I kind of did the opposite of Jwhite. I installed a flat rear sprocket and used a straight edge to determine if I needed offset on the drive sprocket. Luckily, I didn't.

Yeah, that's definitely another way to do it. Matter of fact, now that I think about it. Pretty sure I ordered a flat sprocket the first time around and had to take it back and get the offset sprocket. Funny how you forget your fuck ups!

Either way, get one of your sprockets in, wheel centered in the frame and use a straight edge to determine if and where you need to compensate to line it up.

007
02-25-2010, 4:58 PM
one more question to those who have already done it and especially those who did it to a ledsled weldon hardtail. i've got my frame with the hardtail for the stock rear wheel and wondering if i need to go with a flat rear sprocket or a dished? i talked to zippers and they said their kit is a dished sprocket but i have a friend who used a flat rear sprocket on his hardtail conversion so i'm trying to get my conversion figured out without having to buy multiple parts.

If you are using the PBI trans sprocket from Zipper's, you can flip it one way or the other so the offset is either for a flat or dished rear sprocket.

ACYocum
02-26-2010, 9:10 PM
led sled has a kit i was looking into

i have the led sled kit. Works perfectly, bolted right on. Could not find a better price and required zero thought

Jackieshan
03-10-2010, 6:02 PM
Okay... been busy lately, but finally getting around to posting my conversion. I've got a 98 sportster with the stock frame and swingarm. I bought a baker 23 tooth front sprocket (part # 23T02-56) for $45, Drag Specialties 51 tooth rear sprocket (part# DS-32539) for $50, and an EK Quadra-X O-Ring chain (part# 530zzz) for $135. Total for the whole conversion was $230. You can go cheaper on the chain, but you get what you pay for. The chain I got was pretty good for the price and I've heard good things about EK. The ratio is pretty close to stock. I believe the stock is 2.26 and mine came out to about 2.22 giving me a little lower end torque. The conversion is super easy to do, though I used a chain tool to rivet the chain instead of using a clip that can fall off. The rear sprocket is a dished sprocket for a 91-92 sportster and lined up perfectly with the baker .200 offset front. No need for any spacers and the stock sprocket plate bolts right on to the baker sprocket. Anyways, here's a couple pics and feel free to ask any questions.

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6919/finishedchainconversion.jpg (http://img691.imageshack.us/i/finishedchainconversion.jpg/)
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/7183/stepchainconversion.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/stepchainconversion.jpg/)

GaryC58
03-05-2011, 9:37 PM
I'm in the middle of messing with mine at the moment.
The front drive sprocket from Zipper's has 3 threaded holes in it.They are closer together than the 2 threaded holes used on the factory belt pully and retaining plate.The Zipper's bolt is also smaller-it is a socket head 10-24.
I went and got a pack of those,so I could use a bolt in all 3 holes.

Looking at the factory retaining plate,I just couldn't see how it would work on the Zipper's sprocket without drilling.
Correct me if I'm wrong-the Zipper's sprocket doesn't NEED the factory retaining plate,does it?
It appears to me that the reason the holes are where they are,is because the heads of the 3 socket head bolts will prevent the sprocket nut from loosening and backing off.
Can someone confirm that this is correct,or straighten me out if it is in error?

It is too late at night for me to go back out to the garage and fire up the compressor to nail it down and check it out,but I'll likely do it tomorrow.

Frankenstein
03-05-2011, 10:25 PM
I myself just ordered a belt to chain conversion kit from Zippers this week. Should be here Thur. Fingers crossed all goes well.

Twinkies
03-06-2011, 4:04 PM
I'm in the middle of messing with mine at the moment.
The front drive sprocket from Zipper's has 3 threaded holes in it.They are closer together than the 2 threaded holes used on the factory belt pully and retaining plate.The Zipper's bolt is also smaller-it is a socket head 10-24.
I went and got a pack of those,so I could use a bolt in all 3 holes.

Looking at the factory retaining plate,I just couldn't see how it would work on the Zipper's sprocket without drilling.
Correct me if I'm wrong-the Zipper's sprocket doesn't NEED the factory retaining plate,does it?
It appears to me that the reason the holes are where they are,is because the heads of the 3 socket head bolts will prevent the sprocket nut from loosening and backing off.
Can someone confirm that this is correct,or straighten me out if it is in error?

It is too late at night for me to go back out to the garage and fire up the compressor to nail it down and check it out,but I'll likely do it tomorrow.

I was a little confused at first about this too... here's the deal... the PBI sprocket comes with that one allen screw taped to the box. When the 1-7/8" sprocket nut is tightened, the set screw should fit all the way into 1 of those 3 holes which will be on the flat side of the nut somewhere. Its just a set screw to keep the nut from backing off. Use loc-tite. The two bolt "plate' like pictured above is just for the belt sprocket, you wont re-use it on the PBI chain sprocket in the Zippers kit.

ruckus2115
03-06-2011, 6:14 PM
yea im doing this right now....kinda came to the conclusion the stock retaining plate is of no use. im wondering about using a jims tranny nut ( http://www.debrix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=77428-M1 )

and are you using the spacer that they gave that goes on the tranny shaft?

mike1407
03-06-2011, 6:39 PM
yea im doing this right now....kinda came to the conclusion the stock retaining plate is of no use. im wondering about using a jims tranny nut ( http://www.debrix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=77428-M1 )

and are you using the spacer that they gave that goes on the tranny shaft?

did you piece yours together or buy a kit?

gravitywerx
03-06-2011, 6:50 PM
i will be doing this eventually but was wondering on the LED SLED kit, they have it listed with certain tooth sprockets....how is the ratio with those sprockets.....i dont want to be winding out at 60mph....

Twinkies
03-06-2011, 7:45 PM
i will be doing this eventually but was wondering on the LED SLED kit, they have it listed with certain tooth sprockets....how is the ratio with those sprockets.....i dont want to be winding out at 60mph....

Even though I went with the Zippers kit, I went with the same 23T front/ 48T rear combo.
I have a terrible memory, but I remember talking to the Zippers rep who was helpful and had a chart of gear ratios in front of him. Im pretty sure he said to match the stock belt drive ratio on my 883 I'd need a 23 front/ 51 rear. I have a 1200 top end/ 883 bottom end so I decided to go 48T rear sprocket...

ruckus2115
03-06-2011, 9:51 PM
did you piece yours together or buy a kit?

eh....i got lazy and just ordered one up from zippers....it came with everything and like someone has just said the guy was able to have all the different ratios depending on what you wanted.

mike1407
03-06-2011, 10:43 PM
eh....i got lazy and just ordered one up from zippers....it came with everything and like someone has just said the guy was able to have all the different ratios depending on what you wanted.

how much was it?

GaryC58
03-06-2011, 11:08 PM
Thanks for the verification,Twinkies.


As per the 23/48 combo,it brings the engine revs down some at highway speeds.
Good idea if you spend much time on the highway on a Sporty.

gravitywerx
03-07-2011, 5:52 AM
Thanks for the verification,Twinkies.


As per the 23/48 combo,it brings the engine revs down some at highway speeds.
Good idea if you spend much time on the highway on a Sporty.

good to know for when i do it...of course by the time i get around to it i will have lost this thread....

ruckus2115
03-07-2011, 9:01 AM
how much was it?

it was around 375
http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/showproduct.asp?cat=588&prod=2167
it comes with everything and really is a direct bolt on. pbi sprockets and a rk chain. correct spacers and stuff.....yea i know it is kinda expensive but it was worth the extra cost to just order it from one company in case i needed to return anything. the whole tax refund also helped the decision. i forget what number of teeth front and back i got but it is similar to stock.

doppleganger87
10-11-2011, 1:06 PM
I was a little confused at first about this too... here's the deal... the PBI sprocket comes with that one allen screw taped to the box. When the 1-7/8" sprocket nut is tightened, the set screw should fit all the way into 1 of those 3 holes which will be on the flat side of the nut somewhere. Its just a set screw to keep the nut from backing off. Use loc-tite. The two bolt "plate' like pictured above is just for the belt sprocket, you wont re-use it on the PBI chain sprocket in the Zippers kit.

because im lazy and dont want to figure it out myself do you know what size that retainer screw is??

doppleganger87
10-11-2011, 4:59 PM
or a better question yet is..how in the hell did you guys get that drive sprocket nut off?????!!!!!!

BrokenDown
10-12-2011, 2:46 PM
or a better question yet is..how in the hell did you guys get that drive sprocket nut off?????!!!!!!
When I did mine (Zippers, by the way) I used a 1/2" impact with an adapter and six-dollar 3/4" drive Tractor Supply socket. I don't remember it being a huge deal, but if I remember correctly, it may have had some red loc-tite from the factory. I didn't want to leave my transmission in gear, so I wrapped a snapped belt around it and secured it with vice grips.
I don't remember if it was left or right hand threads, maybe someone else has a better memory than me.

doppleganger87
10-12-2011, 7:10 PM
yea it does have left handed threads..i put everything back together and am using the bike with a chalk block while its in 1st trying to get the nut to break free with a BFW and am still not getting anywhere!maybe i have to find an impact.....

BrokenDown
10-12-2011, 7:29 PM
Impacts are a hell of a tool for crap like that. Good luck, man

BobbErik
03-11-2012, 3:26 PM
yea it does have left handed threads..i put everything back together and am using the bike with a chalk block while its in 1st trying to get the nut to break free with a BFW and am still not getting anywhere!maybe i have to find an impact.....

i'm having the same problem. everytime I tried to unloosen the bolt I'm turning the whole motor over.

it's left hand threads right so are you turning it clockwise as well? anyone want to give us a few pointers?

BobbErik
03-11-2012, 4:00 PM
nevermind. i finally got the fucker out. look at what i had to do. inside the nut threading was a stripe of red locktite with a line of rust.

Tito
03-11-2012, 7:57 PM
On my 96, I kept the belt on, pushed the bikes front wheel against a sturdy object. Now the important part....I used an impact driver. For install I believe I sat on the bike while I had the new chain on the sprockets, and torqued to specs.

Looks like you figured most of it out. But anyways, here's my HOW-TO....
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15790&highlight=chain+conversion

Skyhigh88
03-11-2012, 8:01 PM
is there any advantage to chain over belt or belt over chain? just curious...

TINGLER
04-23-2012, 8:37 PM
is there any advantage to chain over belt or belt over chain? just curious...

From my limited knowledge, belts can last longer than a chain. Belts are less maintenance.

I believe chains are a bit cheaper and of course they look right on a motorcycle.

For me I'm changing over to a chain for two reasons: #1. looks. #2. a chain is cheaper. #3. I dig messing with a chain. I actually like working on my stuff. Comuning with the machine...know what I mean?

Yeah that's 3 reasons.