View Full Version : Advice on avoiding "blue" chrome pipes

01-23-2010, 10:07 PM
I've got some new pipes on the way for my Triumph. The old timer I bought the bike from recommended painting the inside of the new pipes with High-Temp paint to avoid bluing. Does anyone know if this works...if not, can anyone recommend what to do to avoid the blue?

01-23-2010, 10:59 PM
The "oldtimer" is right ...Tape the end shut fill that pipe with paint roll it around tape the other end after a bit repeat process from opposite end let dry ...it works if done right...

01-24-2010, 4:26 AM
Or just jet it right !

01-24-2010, 7:05 AM
thanks KT...can you suggest a type/brand of paint? Would hi-temp engine enamel work?

--Trumpnut, I assure you I'm going to try and dial in the carbs to avoid bluing altogether. This is my first build and I'm no Amal expert by any stretch!

01-24-2010, 8:50 AM
I'ved heard of the painting trick,never tried it though. I tend to just run my mix a little on the fat side.

01-24-2010, 10:36 AM
I've got some new pipes on the way for my Triumph. The old timer I bought the bike from recommended painting the inside of the new pipes with High-Temp paint to avoid bluing. Does anyone know if this works...if not, can anyone recommend what to do to avoid the blue?

Pipe bluing is an indicator of other issues, like too lean of mixture or incorrect timing. too advanced and too retarded will cause this. when all the setting are correct you may get a little gold on the pipes but never blue or black.
When we do a new motor we use a set of old pipes to tune in the engine.and we use an infra-red temp measuring gun to set the mixture and on dual carb bikes to equalize the carbs.
Bluing will happen sometimes on bikes with Hunt mags because they have a fixed timing setting at idle (38 deg.) and no advance mechanism. but you can fatten up the pilot circuit to compensate
for this.

01-24-2010, 11:02 AM
Others are correct in the fact if set right you shouldnt get discoloring except for maybe some gold ..my pipes are gold , as far as the paint to use I used a 2500 degree spray paint they sell at auto stores but it wasnt engine paint ...cause it was a flat paint ...

01-24-2010, 12:29 PM
Any quality brand name high temp paint will work. I sold lots of pipes along with a can of paint over the years. It works if your bike is setup right. Don't expect miracles.

01-24-2010, 12:59 PM
Ign. timing and jetting go hand in hand . So does cam timing .

You can turn a blued pipe back to a more yellow just by getting the tuning close .

If this is your first build and you really want to get the triumph running tits then find a hill about 1/2 long orso and do a plug chop in all three ranges . Spend the time now and your bike will be way more reliable in the long run plus you will see how good it really runs so you could compair it to itself down the road .

01-24-2010, 6:47 PM
+1... on that. All the while I took trying to tune my trump correctly (with a Mag) my new pipes turned a dark blue. When I finally got her dialed in, the color actually changed to a goldish color. I was amazed , I thought once it turned blue that was it.

01-24-2010, 7:17 PM
Metals especially chrome and stainless can go through a multitude of colors when heat is applied in different degrees and cooling time....I remember Tig welding 14" vapor tubes made of stainless steel at GP would look like a rainbow when done....golds purples blues reds always found metal to be the most interesting material to work with...

01-25-2010, 8:49 AM
Or just jet it right !

what he said.

01-26-2010, 8:39 AM
Ok guys, keep in mind this is my first time building a bike, let alone a British bike, so keep the noob comments to a minimum.

The Haynes Manual shows main jet 180, Needle position 1, throttle valve 3 as the stock set up. I am planning on running open pipes and the velocity stacks/screens pictured below.

I assume I need to make adjustments to the carb set-up based on the greater amount of air coming from the velocity stacks vs. enclosed stock airbox. Can anyone give advice on where to start? Thanks in advance!http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l32/ridemore16/106_0358.jpg

01-26-2010, 11:10 AM
I would start with what you said and go from there ...My bike ended up taking a 190 main and 3 ...I have open velocity stacks and open wrap around drag pipes.... But this can depend on elevation, humidity all kinds of enviromental things to take into consideration....And not all bikes are the same ...Some will take a bigger needle and some a smaller one or you might have to move your clip from the middle to one of the other positions...

Give the mix screw 1 1/2 turns and then go from there if you can't adjust it to not be to rich or to lean then you will have to change needle sizes ...But I'd wait till I got into it more to worry ...It may line right out for you ...

I was worried when I started on my first dual carb bike , but soon found it is'nt a mystery or some hard voodoo thing ...you either get to much gas or not enough just find that middle ground ...lots of good Triumph guys on here so the help is available no worries

01-26-2010, 6:46 PM
Aside from 'getting it right'.. Kreem makes a product called Blue Shield. It's a liquid you slosh around inside the pipe that prevents it from bluing.

Kreem Blue Shield (http://www.kreemproducts.net/p-19-blue-shield.aspx)

01-30-2010, 4:52 PM
heat shields work wonders

02-10-2010, 3:17 PM
I saw a great looking Triumph bobber in the last issue of The Horse (Black/Blue bike). That bike had pipes that were coated at a company called "Jet Hot" in North Carolina. I've got my pipes there and they should be shipping back in a few days. They do a lot of coating for the Automotive industry. I can't wait to see how they turn out!