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BrandonThePleb
08-03-2012, 9:27 PM
I have this throttle cable with no end but it came with a barrel and a metal sleeve. See attached pic. Wondering if you guys can tell me how install it. do i put the sleeve on the cable then the barrel around the sleeve and crimp it? would think the sleeve is to long or do i only use a little piece of it?

Bandersnatch
08-04-2012, 11:44 AM
I dunno What that little sleeve is for....to be honest.

But that barrel....
I've seen that used on the inside of throttle assemblies. You take the ball on the end of a cable and slip it in the slot.... then the barrel goes into the hooks on the throttle tube inside the housing.

Looks like you need to put an end on that cable.

SEE
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166

BrandonThePleb
08-05-2012, 12:42 AM
yeah i got the ball end but it fits in the internal throttle tube. guess I'll have to sauder in that barrel for the carb side
still wondering why everything came like that.
anyways I made use of an old idle cable for the pull cable and took out that little spring at the bottom .

LRChops
08-05-2012, 5:54 AM
I just recently used that Barnett cable kit for my S&S E Carb. The direction suck and you may as well throw them away. You cannot 'solder' throttle or clutch cable with a regular solder gun or torch. Traditional solder will just roll right off.

Here is how it worked best for me: Get rid of that extra little sleeve adjuster and measure out the length of your cable. Cut the housing and cable where needed. Slip the larger brass retainer over the cable end with the larger opening facing out or towards the end of the cable. Then slip the small brass retainer on the cable. Clean the cable real well with carb cleaner or a good degreaser. Fray the end of the cable so the brass retainer will not slide off.

Get some LEAD (maybe fishing weights), a block of wood, a propane torch, and some flux. Drill a small hole in the wood as this will be your jig. You are going to fill the hole with flux and dip you cable into flux. place the LEAD on the wood near the hole and torch it until it melts into the hole (guide it into the hole with a screwdriver or blade. Fill the hole with melted lead, then dip your cable end with the small brass retainer into the lead. Hold it in there for 5 MINUTES and let it set. After it sets, pull it out. You will have a glob of lead on the end of your cable that will not pull off easily. The LEAD end can be easily shaped with a file or on sander or grinder. Shape it until the large brass piece fits over the lead covered small brass retainer. Leave some lead exposed on the end and smash it down and around the brass barrel piece. DONE.

Now don't use aluminum or steel for the jig in replacement of the wood block. It won't work because metal dissipates heat and will not allow the lead to melt how we want it at a fast rate. Yes the wood will burn, but not much and that is ok.

I know this all sounds like a lot to do but it is not that bad and it WORKS. Traditional soldering wont work, you need to use LEAD.

Don't do this around a leaky gas water heater or gasoline!

Bandersnatch
08-05-2012, 7:42 AM
Thanks LRC!

Always good to throw something like that in my bag of tricks!

BrandonThePleb
08-05-2012, 6:22 PM
you think i can just MIG the end of the cable?

Bandersnatch
08-05-2012, 10:43 PM
you think i can just MIG the end of the cable?

You set up for stainless?

I'd say go with what works.
Tested and proven.

Tried and true.


Flux and lead and a torch will only cost you a couple of bucks.......and you will have MORE tools at your disposal.

BrandonThePleb
08-06-2012, 12:22 AM
You set up for stainless?

I'd say go with what works.
Tested and proven.

Tried and true.


Flux and lead and a torch will only cost you a couple of bucks.......and you will have MORE tools at your disposal.

true. found a video of that wood/ flux paste technique http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-gY27LTU2c&feature=related