View Full Version : Sydney - 2001 Yamaha SR250 Cafe Racer

01-04-2010, 7:27 AM
Hi Guys,

This is my project bike - 2001 Yamaha SR250

It's about 2/3 complete.




- Fibreglassing seat
- Fibreglassing battery box...
- Searching for a rear fender
- Modifying the chain guard to fit a Firestone 450/18 rear tyre
- Welding the rear frame to add a curved grab bar
- Welding the exhaust togetehr with the muffler
- Cutting up some pieces of steel for mounts (front indicator, ignition relocation, battery box, brake line guide)

This is my first bike, so apologies for the novice nature of my posts. This is all experimental. Hopefully I'll learn a bit more about bikes, and perhaps gain experience to build better bikes later on.

P.S. This SR250 Blog is also on PSB (Perth Street Bikes) which I update more often - http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f61/2001-yamaha-sr250-deus-inspired-cafe-racer-sydney-88379/

01-04-2010, 4:17 PM
looks like you started with a nice enough example.it is always nice to re-do something that you already know runs,saves all the "well it looks like what i want it just won't run"b.s.
keep us posted i can't wait to see whatcha come up with,
leon holmes

01-04-2010, 10:03 PM
Yeh cool work. Keep em coming with the pics.

You from Sydney, Aus?

01-28-2010, 8:21 PM
looks like you started with a nice enough example.it is always nice to re-do something that you already know runs,saves all the "well it looks like what i want it just won't run"b.s.
keep us posted i can't wait to see whatcha come up with,
leon holmes

Thanks champ!

01-28-2010, 8:22 PM
Yeh cool work. Keep em coming with the pics.

You from Sydney, Aus?

Yeah, I'm from Sydney. Where abouts are you from?

01-28-2010, 8:23 PM
Hey Everyone,

Fibreglassing - Splinters all over my arms and legs which follow me into my bed! As you might know, they're impossible to find and pick out. But as skin naturally expells foreign objects, the splinters fall off in my bed over night. But then the next night I forget there's fibreglass splinters in my bed because I wake up feeling unprickled and clean, but alas I fall asleep in the bed of thorns again. omg I can't wait for mum or my girlfriend to wash my sheets. LOL.

ANYWAY...Here's another update

I made a seat pan and battery box out of fibreglass, that are about half done. The battery box is quite nifty, it's got a hinged lid and a lock. I need to figure out some way to mount it to the bike.

Thoughts: Weld some mounts and use Zip Ties vs Fibreglass Mounts vs Steel Mounts


Quite proud of the box so far (yay). It too a lot of time measuring, marking, fiddling, sanding, cutting etc. Next time, definately making it out of sheel metal.

Some sides are still a bit thin, which I'll need to thicken up the glass.

Thinking about a Rear Fender: Fibreglass on up (which I hear from friends who build 'low rider' bicycles is a PITA to curve up vs A Harley Custom Fender on ebay or something.

A battery powered motorbike! Cool!
The battery looks big enough... Thinking of a way to mount the battery box and fit all the wiring bits and pieces properly. Challenging, I know. Any suggestions?

I hope to limit the use of any kind of electrical tray. That way, I can make use of the frame and keep the mounts provided. Oh, the battery box has about a fistfull of room, that I hope to fit a cigarette lighter inside for a GPS/iPhone connection. How would I add that to the wiring diagram?

Wiring Diagram (For anyone curious)
Anyone know where to find a clearer, less pixelated diagram by any chance?

A Diagram I drew up to visualise where what goes:
(n.b. There are two electrical devices which are in the wrong places)

Any help on the electrics is much much appreciated!

P.S. Larger pictures for reference:

What's the best way to learn how re-wire a bike?

Here's the Plan for Wiring
- Ignition Key switched to 'On' - Allows EVERYTHING to light up, including headlight, indicators, brake light, speedo back light and other safety necessities. Hence, when the kill switch is hit, EVERYTHING stays lit up.

- Add an Ignition Key switch to the frame
- Add a Hazard Light switch (All indicators on together)
- Add a Cigarette Lighter/Auxiliary Power - This should fit inside the battery box to power a GPS/iPhone which is I'm constantly needing to recharge.

That's all I can remember for now.


01-29-2010, 12:52 AM

What type of Soldering Equipment do I need to rewire this bike?

Soldering Iron - How many Volts / Watts
Soldering Iron Tips - Flat / Pointy/Bent
Soldering Wire - 1mm / 2mm / Thicker

What is a durable method to solder to prevent erosion? flux?

Thanks in advance for any help.

02-02-2010, 12:06 AM
I'm in Adelaide. . Progress is looking good, can't wait for the final product!

02-12-2010, 1:04 PM
Very interesting input regarding wiring...

Hey Everyone,

I don't want the yellowed urethane acrylic clear coat I've got. I also don't want to fill up petrol at the petty station with a funnel. 2pac doesn't get eroded from petrol. So, I popped into the painters today to find out how much it'll cost to clear coat the tank with 2pac.

They told me the clear is designed to go on paint. I have bare metal. It used to be polished but now is a little porous. I told them my situation and I might just sand it instead to get a 'brushed metal' effect. Another reason being that nothing should stick to a polished surface. Not unless it's ruffed up. Then again, I may have the same issue with clear not sticking to the brushed metal surface. It may chip off in the direction of the brush strokes. They recommended 1 coat of clear so that it isn't too thick and there's less likelihood of cracking...

Is this even correct? Or are they just trying to make a quick buck from me?

Got back from the night out and I suppose Bourbon and coke inspired me to do more on the bike.

- Upholstered, kind of...
- Mounted engine, kind of...
- Realised the Air Filter faults with the battery box...
- Back to sanding up the battery box so it fits the air filter.



02-15-2010, 6:25 PM
Glad wrap and milk crates, the only way to roll.

As far as your paint goes, I'm no expert, but I think the deal is that if you give it plenty of time between coats of clear, it will harden properly, then you put the next coat on. Otherwise, if you coat too quick, then the earlier coats don't get the chance to dry properly and you get cracking.

But I'm no expert, I have just been reading up a fair bit on it lately.