View Full Version : Official Build Thread.. 1965 650 Tiger (Boardtracker Build)

06-23-2012, 5:25 PM
I guess I should have started an official build thread for my boardtrack custom.. I started with a already 70's custom chopper built 1965 650 Tiger, and then started doing it in the style I was looking for.. Pretty well all the parts are 1 off custom, or old stock something, and I think that adds a bit more style.

I had started on this bike a bit ago, but got sidetracked with some other endeavor's, so it has been on the back burner.. I have recently completely disassbled the bike again, so I can do some of the final welding before paint.. I will also run all the cables and wiring, before I disassemble the bike for paint.

There will be no chrome on this bike, so everything will either be Painted or Copper Plated, and most of it will be painted.. The engine case, frame, tank, fender, front end, handle bars, oil tank, headlight bucket, wheels and hubs, ect, will all be painted in a 2 tone of Champaign and Silver, which will be broken up with a hand painted copper pinstripe.

The exhaust pipes, cylinder jug, cylinder head, rocker covers, engine covers, clutch basket/hardware, oil tank, headlight trim, front girder hardware/bolts, possibly wheels spokes, and I am sure I am forgetting a few things, will all be Copper Plated.

The oil tank, rocker covers, cylinder jug and head, will have the copper painted over, so it will only expose accents of copper on the fins and other necessary area's.. The badge work will be done in the same fashion also, becaue I dont want to overwhelm the bike with the copper plating.. About 80-90 percent of the bike will be painted, with the other 10-20 percent being exposed copper plating for highlighting..

Here is what I started with..


Here are some of the progress pics, along with some pics that kind of laid out some bad attempts or ideas..












06-23-2012, 5:40 PM
Here is where I am at now... I have refined most of what I was trying to achieve, and I think it works now.. The bike is surprising comfortable, and you even ride in a more upright seating postion, due to the use of the Leaf Spring set up I have..

I used an oil in frame tank, because I wanted the extra room for all my electrics and accessories to be mounted underneath it on the frame work.. By closing out the front of the tank, you lose the oil in frame look, and it will get of the unsightly frame/tank gap.

I also could not come up with a narrow enough fender, so I had to cut the rear fender into 5 pieces, and then piece together 3 of the pieces, so I can get a fender that actually fits the skinny 19 inch tire..








I finally got the bars refined to where I wanted them also, and it was a pain in the ass.. I am running internal Throttle and inverted levers, which was a fairly complicated configuration to get to work.. Internal throttle and an inverted lever, really dont work well together, because the inverted lever clamps on the inside of the handle bar tubing, which would normally jam the throttle.






Here is a close up of the Leaf Spring seat set up... I have these things set up to body weigth, at 50# increments, so that ensure a better ride than the typical solo seat spring kits.




06-23-2012, 5:46 PM
Here are some over all pics of the bike, so you can see the stance.. I will disassmble it again this next week, and do all the final finish welding and grinding before it goes to paint..









06-23-2012, 6:03 PM
I also have some really cool velocity stacks being made, and they will be pretty trick, if they work.. Rather than having them run straight out at the new carburator angle, they area made to kick out, and then angle themselves to run toward a straight backward angle..

Here is a pic of the mock up velocity stack, but when done, I am hoping they have a different twist to them.. Between the actual Bell/Cone and the the solid tube right after the bend, it will be cut out, so only about 5 thin fingers will hold the bell.. I will then install a thin metal mesh into the velocity stack, which will be copper plated or painted, and that will fill in the empty space. I think that will break up some of the bulk of the velocity stack, and be something a bit different.. If the velocity stack works, I will have a smaller exhaust tip version made..





06-24-2012, 3:28 AM
nice !!!

:clap for you:

06-24-2012, 3:41 PM
Being that the front end I am using is an original 1930's BSA girder, I am doing my best not to cut anything, or alter it. There are a couple of threaded tabs that could easily be removed, but it seems it would be best to try to use them if possible..

At the top of the girder, I had two threaded tabs that was more than likely used for a speedo bracket, but I am not running a speedo at this time, so I needed to figure something out to do with them.. I figure they would make great Clutch and Brake cable guide mounts, so I fashioned some. I used some hiem joints, because during the suspension and steering articulation, they would allow the cable to run through them and flex, with out binding or over flexing the cable.

I still have a bit of filing to do on them, but I am hoping that they will play with the mechanical theme of the bike..





06-24-2012, 4:38 PM
Im keep looking at these pictures thinking there is gonna be something that i dont like. It never happened dude, I LOVE this thing. Keep it up man!

06-24-2012, 5:51 PM
As I have said, I am trying not to modify the original front end. I used the fender tab for a British Style Identification Plate, because it would not be able to house a proper fender for the style I am building. The plate unbolts from the tab, so it can be removed at anytime..

I have what I guess is a Speedo Cable tab on the front girder tube, and I am trying to figure out what I can use it for.. I was thinking at the beginning I would use it to route the front brake cable, but the twin leading shoe brake housing would not allow that... I am open to suggestions on this one, because I am sort of at a loss.. If you look at the pic below, you will see the threaded bung that extends off the front girder tube.



06-24-2012, 6:18 PM
This bike kicks ass !
oh , and maybe you can throw a steering dampener of some sorts there, fog lamp, spotlight,bell, idk ?

06-24-2012, 6:43 PM
This bike kicks ass !
oh , and maybe you can throw a steering dampener of some sorts there, fog lamp, spotlight,bell, idk ?

Thanks man... I am getting very anxious to see it done, and only hope it lives up to what my expectations are.. LOL I really thought about putting a small yellow Lucas fog light there, or something like that..

06-24-2012, 7:11 PM
I have been looking at the metal tank badges, and have really been thinking about ditching them.. In most of vintage photo's I can find, it seems like the really early bikes had the Triumph painted on the tanks instead..? I have been thinking that my paint guy can air brush a nostalgic Triumph logo onto the tank..

Does anyone know the history of the metal tank badges versus the painted logo's? I would be interested in any very early pictures of the Triumph badge work..

06-24-2012, 8:55 PM
Lots of neat stuff with that leaf spring seat and pedestrian slicer with no fender. This will be neat to see all finished up.

06-26-2012, 1:02 PM
I have been considering some alternatives to the metal badge on the tank, and I think I may have found something that I like.. I am not sure about where or when the logo came from, but I think it is pretty fitting to the build..

I just printed and sized these with my printer, and then applied them with water, so I can see the look.. What do you think?




Here are some pics with the metal badge, which looks pretty good, but I am thinking I like the less clutter and the fact the logo would be unique to a tank..



06-26-2012, 6:33 PM
I really liked the printed ones.

06-26-2012, 7:25 PM
Here is a set of 1931-33 Triumph Tank Decals I ordered earlier, and I think they will work out best, because there isnt any Harley resemblance like the other.. We will apply these under the clear coat, and depending on their size, we may do a bit of air brush tweeking to them... I really like the Wing Design, and I may find a way to incorporate into these original logo's..


06-26-2012, 9:35 PM
I have also been thinking about a small chain guard, so I roughed one in... I am not sure if I am liking it at all, and I was debating on holes in the side of it to break up some of the bulk, but I am not sure about any of it. I am trying to figure out something to use the engine cases extended mounting hole, so I dont have to cut it off, just not sure if this is the solution.







06-27-2012, 5:58 AM
personally I think the metal tank badges are hideous, I'm glad mine didnt come with em cuz i prolly would've hacked them up too. As for the "decals" I don't really like the winged one with British flag, mainly because they are too small, if they were maybe 2-3 x that size, I think it'd look a lot better(minus the wings, this is a patch someone "came up" with, it was never an actual logo. The other logo you have from the 30's is pretty nice, but flashy with all the different colors, may look good in B&W. My thought on the chain guard, A:you have an open primary,whats the point of a chain guard? B:)This is a "board tracker" inspired bike, I don't think a chain guard will make the bike go any faster! Simply put it's not needed, with that said, later down the road, if you have issues ripping pants legs, then maybe add it. You seem to be fixated with using every available mounting bracket/ hole as possible, trust me, ya don't need a bolt in every hole, hell mines missing a good few, and it still runs!
I like the older style logos like these:
1902 - 1906 - http://www.sorenwinslow.com/Img/Triumph/1902-1906-Triumph-Shield.jpg
1907-1914 - Script - http://www.sorenwinslow.com/Img/Triumph/1907-1914-Triumph-Script.jpg
1914 - http://www.sorenwinslow.com/Img/Triumph/1914-Triumph-Oval.jpg

06-27-2012, 9:20 AM
[QUOTE=starwolf;339987]My thought on the chain guard, A:you have an open primary,whats the point of a chain guard? B:)This is a "board tracker" inspired bike, I don't think a chain guard will make the bike go any faster! Simply put it's not needed, with that said, later down the road, if you have issues ripping pants legs, then maybe add it. You seem to be fixated with using every available mounting bracket/ hole as possible, trust me, ya don't need a bolt in every hole, hell mines missing a good few, and it still runs!

I looked at those logo's also, and for some reason the globe badge appealed to me. I am also not completely sold on the chain guard, but my issue with the mount hole being used, is that is is extended upward beyond the case, and it really stands at attention.

I do understand that not all holes have to have bolts in them, but I like things to look like they have purpose, or it was suppose to come out that way. I design custom products for classic automobile catalogs, and I like things to be a direct fit, and provide function and order to the application.

I have respect for the classic cars and motorcycles, along with their components, because I know what it takes to sort it all out from the beginning. And that is why I am really trying to use all the mounting positions on this front end. I dont really want to hack anything up, that may have had a purpose in the past.. LOL

06-27-2012, 9:43 AM
Well done sir, well done.

06-27-2012, 2:32 PM
Here are some pictures of the Handle Bar Cable routing and mechanisms. Everything seems to be working well, but I did have to order an 8 inch longer clutch cable for proper tucked away routing.. This was not as easy as I thought it would be, but it was very important for the look I was going for, so it had to happen..







06-29-2012, 8:03 PM
I like this build, nice work!

06-29-2012, 10:13 PM
I forgot to mention ......that this bike fuckin kicks ass ! :clap for you:

06-30-2012, 7:49 PM
If you think of it, please post how that speedmaster works out for you on the rear.
Thanks in advance,

06-30-2012, 8:01 PM
If you think of it, please post how that speedmaster works out for you on the rear.
Thanks in advance,

I sure will.. I hope to have this thing back from paint and plating in 2-3 weeks, and make a rapid pace for assembly.. LOL

I sure hope it works out well, because I didnt leave myself any room for a much wider tire.. I did a bit of research, and it seem that the running a front Speedmaster tire in the rear would be fine, because of the overall weight load of this bike.

07-01-2012, 8:46 PM
Cool, looking forward to your report.

07-01-2012, 9:50 PM
Here are some before and after pics of a freshen up of a 1968 650 Bonneville, that was just done at the shop.. It is now on Ebay, and I am curious what it will bring. It was just a quick freshen up, and just had to get rid of that Harley tank, it just didnt look right..








07-06-2012, 3:53 PM
Well, I am running late for paint this week, because I have had several last minute items to take care of before I can disassemble it, so it looks like it will be shipped out this next week..

I couldnt find the brake switch style I was looking for, and there was no way in hell I was going to use the typical hard tail clamp switch with the spring, so I came up with something else that looks like it will work.. I modified the engine side bracket and a 1940's Chevy Truck brake switch to work.. I am debating on sort of boxing the engine plate, so it hides the switch, but it really doesnt look to bad the way it is.. The switch works, and it is adjustable, so all should be good. If I stick with this direction, I will either paint the body of the switch, or heat shrink it in a rubber material.

I will have some pictures of what I am doing for a center stand keeper/release, and I will say that this one has kicked my ass.. I am looking for a very secure way of holding the center stand up in place, because I dont want it coming down on its own for any reason. It is a heavily modded/shortend stand, so the typcial Triumph Spring retaining system would not work.. Instead, I have a mechanical spring pin that will go through one of the legs of the stand, and will have a quick release for the pins retraction.. There is a spring that will keep the center stand from falling directly to the ground once released, and it appears it will work great, and fit the mechanical theme of the bike. I am waiting on a weld on pin sleeve to get here, so I can get it all dialed in..

Here are some pics of the Brake Switch mechanism I came up with...




07-06-2012, 8:13 PM
Very neat, I like your chain guard . :clap for you:

07-06-2012, 9:44 PM
that thing looks badasskovich dude!!!

07-06-2012, 10:19 PM
Just wait till you guys see what I have going at the machine shop for this next week.. We are working on the cylinder head/exhaust attachment, and if it is successful, there will be No Clamps. The setup that we are working on, is a low profile collar system that will attach the exhaust pipes to the head, but will be a smooth and seamless system that will not be a much larger diameter than the actual exhaust pipe. I will be working on several different sizes and designs, so I can get just what I am looking for, that is once I know they work..

Right after that, will be the Velocity Stacks and Exhaust tip, which will be a very unique design also.. I will have some extra's of several items made, such as the Seat Spring, Exhaust Collars, Velocity Stacks, and a few other items made for future builds, or just in case anyone might want something.

I have a Glass Oil filter coming for the bike also, which will have copper lines runnig for the bottom of the oil tank, up to the filter housing. I am not sure it will all work out right, or if I will use it, but I am planning on mounting it on the down tube, in front of the oil tank. It will have the housing painted, with the copper plumbing going in to it.

I am hoping the dimensions of this, will allow it to fit nicely on the down tube, and place it mid way up, right between the carbs.. As you can also see by the pictures, it needs some smoothing out, because you can see the mill work involved in it.





I am hoping the dimensions of this will allow it to fit nicely on the down tube, and place it mid way up, right between the carbs....Maximum diameter is about 3.25" and the overall length is about 6-1/4"


07-08-2012, 7:12 AM
I may have missed it but what leaf spring did you use? A trailer spring? The build looks sick!

07-08-2012, 10:46 AM
I may have missed it but what leaf spring did you use? A trailer spring? The build looks sick!

Thanks man.. I have had several questions about the seat mount, so I hope I can answer you without crossing a line on this forum.

I had several springs custom made by an Industrial Spring Manufacturer, and they are set up for potential mass production, but I am not sure what direction I am going with them yet. Rather than guess where I could find a spring that could work for proper rider weights, I had this company set them up in specific weight ranges, and made with proper mounting holes and lengths. These seat springs are set up in a range for a 150#'s-300#'s rider in 50 pound increments, and I think that should about cover the needed spring rate variations. I have seen people source other springs, but you have to be careful altering them, especially heating and cutting them. Because the beginning spring making process causes alterations like that to make the metal very brittle, so it will tend to break or crack later.

There are a few things on the bike that may be available for sale at a later date, and the seat spring kit is one of them. There is a difference between that maybe available kit, than the kit shown here on this bike, and that will be the universal solo seat rear mounting bracket, versus the weld on tab you see pictured here... I hope that helps, because I dont want to get to deep into the items right now, because this forum may not look highly on that..

07-08-2012, 2:13 PM
on this bike I used a Model A Ford front axle top lief spring, it been working great for 3 years now on us 200 lb. guys....http://www.chopcult.com/gallery/albums/album-37/lg/BLACK-TRIUMPH-3.jpg

07-08-2012, 9:19 PM
Thanks for the info. After seeing you bike I went on a rampage digging through boxes of stuff in my dads barn. I found a small spring spack from a lawmower trailer? It still looks a bit more beefy than what you used. I'm probably going to do a leaf spring seat on the Norton.

07-09-2012, 4:03 PM
Not sure about this feature either, but I was trying to plug another hole. LOL I have worked out away to make the (Side Car) mount bracket on the upper down tube, work for a sort of Jockey Shift.. I have been working on it for awhile, and set it aside for awhile, and started going back and forth with the idea..

I think it will fit the mechanical look of the bike, and it seems to function very well, but I am wondering if it is too much. It will be a Jockey Shift, but it will still be able to shift with the regular shifter foot peg, so you get both worlds there.. I was thinking I may need to sort out some sort of Jockey quick disconnect, so you are not moving the handle back and forth if you are shifting with your foot.

Here are some pics, but please excuse the unfinished pieces, and I have not sized the length of the lever either. I have not taken the time to finish grind, cut, and weld everything, because I am not sure I am actually going to use it..








07-09-2012, 6:08 PM
For the guys that are curious about riding position, here it is.. I noramally dont like pictures, but the bike is made to fit me, so I had to do it.. LOL I am 5'11" and about 205, so you can get an idea..





07-09-2012, 6:40 PM
If you want the sporting ride, all you have to do is drop your elbows to your knees, and lean right into it... I was trying to get a bit of a balance betweent the two riding styles, because I didnt want to be dedicated to either one, so this is what I got..

It really doesnt feel bad at all, and I think it will be a bit more comfortable than anticipated. I may bump the bars up a bit for a little better wrist position, but I like the stye, and the grip angle is perfect if you lean into it.

07-09-2012, 8:45 PM
Looking great, is that an old Volvo like the Saint had ?

07-09-2012, 9:06 PM
Looking great, is that an old Volvo like the Saint had ?

That is another one of my custom projects and products endeavor. That is a highly body/suspension/drivetrain modified 1966 Volvo P1800, and it 750 horsepower new Corvette LS9 Supercharged.



This what I am going for when it is done.. There are too many mods to list, along with products developed, so it is best to say about 90 percent of the car has been updated


07-10-2012, 7:41 PM
Well I sourced a 5-speed for the bike on Ebay the other day, and I got the tracking info from the guy, but no other answers to my questions.. I was told the best and easiest transmission is from a 76-79 650, but I cant seem to get the guy to answer what year this thing came out of.

Just incase it isnt in that year range, does anyone know what else I might need besideds the inners and outer cover?

07-11-2012, 8:48 PM
a couple of things,
there was no 650's ever made in 1976 through 1979, they were only 750's but that's not important.
A 76-and up 5 speed trans is a left side shift trans, and while the gear clusters are the interchangeable with the earlier right shift 5 speed stuff , the whole shifting mechanism is and inner cover is different.
If you are putting it in a pre 1976 (right side shift) Unit Triumph case then all you need to do is get a 1973-1974 5 speed inner trans cover and shift mechanism, and I believe any 1968 and up right side kicker cover should work.

The bad news is the 73-74 inner trans cover is very desirable and hard to find.

The real question might be why did you want a 5 speed?
it is not an overdrive geared trans. the final gear ratio of a 5 speed is the same as it is on a 4 speed, it's just got shorter ratio gears in between.

07-11-2012, 9:15 PM
a couple of things,
there was no 650's ever made in 1976 through 1979, they were only 750's but that's not important.
A 76-and up 5 speed trans is a left side shift trans, and while the gear clusters are the interchangeable with the earlier right shift 5 speed stuff , the whole shifting mechanism is and inner cover is different.
If you are putting it in a pre 1976 (right side shift) Unit Triumph case then all you need to do is get a 1973-1974 5 speed inner trans cover and shift mechanism, and I believe any 1968 and up right side kicker cover should work.

The bad news is the 73-74 inner trans cover is very desirable and hard to find.

The real question might be why did you want a 5 speed?
it is not an overdrive geared trans. the final gear ratio of a 5 speed is the same as it is on a 4 speed, it's just got shorter ratio gears in between.

Sorry about calling it a 650, it is really just habit.. I was informed that, there is a couple of easy mods that would make it work, so that is why I considered it.. I was told by a couple of reputable builders and part suppliers, that I really on need to enlarge a couple of bearing mounts on the inner covers, because the 5-speeds have a larger bearing diameter. And that as long as I have everything from the 5-speed, I would be able to make it all work with my motor and inner case..

If it looks like it will get to involved, and the gear ratio doesnt really change, then I may just put the 5-speed on the market. The 5-speed really doesnt change the final drive? That does surprise me, because I dont see why people would do the retro-fit, and why the 5-speed bring the money they bring and are so quick to sell..


07-13-2012, 2:14 PM
Here is the tacked mounting for the Oil Filter I am running, and I think it will work out great... It fits right between the carbs, and fills in some gaps.. I will have Polished Copper lines for the plumbing of the Oil Filter Housing and Oil Tank, which should really complete the look of the oil system.











07-15-2012, 2:55 PM
Damn, this is right on.

07-17-2012, 4:54 AM
I am REALLY FUCKIN DIGGIN the Jockey / Foot Shifter, So fuckin' pimp!!! :cheersmate:::clap for you::

08-31-2012, 8:05 PM
we need updates! any thing new?

09-01-2012, 8:34 AM
I'm diggin' this bike man , that's one nice ride..

09-01-2012, 11:12 AM
Man this thing is my favorite bike I've seen so far on this site! Keep up the great work and post a video of it runnin when you get there! Those pipes are too clean.

09-09-2012, 8:39 PM
this bike makes my penis tingle

09-09-2012, 9:12 PM
yeah that^

09-10-2012, 6:57 AM
this bike makes my penis tingle

Then the coils are wired wrong

09-11-2012, 12:20 PM
Then the coils are wired wrong

Somethings wrong..Maybe a short...