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RetroRob
06-07-2012, 10:31 PM
Wiring my triumph, trying to be as minimal as possible. I have one wiring going to the headlight bucket with a 3 position switch, off , dim , bright, no handlebar mounted dimmer. I am trying to connect the tail light from the headlight bucket an need the tail light to come on during dim and bright. What do I need to add in the circuit so I don't light the bright and dim at the same time because I have the tail connected to both.

I know I can fix this by adding a dedicated dimmer switch, but I really want to just run the one switch.

billdozer
06-07-2012, 10:42 PM
A hot is coming from your battery to the headlight switch right? Connect tail light to that wire before it hits the headlight switch. This is assuming your headlight doesn't have power unless the key or ignition switch is on, or if it's a magneto/no battery until the engine is running. That way the tail light is always on if there is power going to the headlight switch, but it doesn't matter which position lo/off/high right? Add it back by the battery/fuse box (whatever you've got) so you don't have to run it to the front of the bike and all the way back.

RetroRob
06-07-2012, 11:01 PM
A hot is coming from your battery to the headlight switch right? Connect tail light to that wire before it hits the headlight switch. This is assuming your headlight doesn't have power unless the key or ignition switch is on, or if it's a magneto/no battery until the engine is running. That way the tail light is always on if there is power going to the headlight switch, but it doesn't matter which position lo/off/high right? Add it back by the battery/fuse box (whatever you've got) so you don't have to run it to the front of the bike and all the way back.

I thought about that Bill , but I've got a sparx battery eliminator, which requires the lights to be off while you kick. I'm running the brake light from the fuse box, figure I won't have the rear brake applied while kicking.

I guess I need an electrical equivalent of a back-flow preventer

Torch
06-07-2012, 11:47 PM
You are going to need a three position ignition switch # 1 would be ignition only, and #2 would be ignition and lights, #3 = off.
Bill is right, Wire it as the lights wire going to the taillight and headlight with a ether/or splitter switch on the headlight that switches the power to the hi or low beam.
you are going to need to start the bike in the ignition only position and then rev it, and switch it to ignition and lights position.

This is why I like the Boyer light-delay charge box on a no battery set up, it does this stuff automatically and all you need is a hi/low switch on the headlight

RetroRob
06-08-2012, 9:45 AM
just talked to my Father in law about this, he's a long time hot rod builder. He said 2 small, simple Diodes from Radio Shack will solve the problem. Wire them in the tail light wire between feed from the dim and bright lights will act as a one way valve so both bright and dim wont light at the same time, even though both feed the tail light.

Torch
06-08-2012, 2:32 PM
that 's true about using diodes and a gate switch, but the wattage of the diode has to match the wattage of the power being used. smaller wattage diodes will work for a while then give out.

ThePete
06-08-2012, 2:56 PM
DIODES, SWITCHES, PLUGS, AND MORE!

If they don't carry it they can get it and if they can't no one makes it:

http://www.mouser.com/

Maybe its just me but I don't trust about 90% of the stuff that comes out of Radio Shack, sure it works at least till it breaks, frys, melts or overheats. But I'm picky when it comes to electrical componants I used to work on Navy Fire Control systems and everything has to be "sea worthy".

RetroRob
06-08-2012, 3:04 PM
DIODES, SWITCHES, PLUGS, AND MORE!

If they don't carry it they can get it and if they can't no one makes it:

http://www.mouser.com/

Maybe its just me but I don't trust about 90% of the stuff that comes out of Radio Shack, sure it works at least till it breaks, frys, melts or overheats. But I'm picky when it comes to electrical componants I used to work on Navy Fire Control systems and everything has to be "sea worthy".

Cool Link, I'll check them out thanks !