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wllgmr
12-14-2009, 4:45 PM
If I get a magneto, what else do I need to do to not run a battery(unit 650). I know the mag is just to get spark to the plugs. Im not sure I understand how i will be able to run batteryless. Someone explain it to me, please.

NITRO
12-14-2009, 9:54 PM
Thats it man, the magneto is your igniton system. The brake and headlight are run off your stator or generator. So you have those two wires running into a podtronics or similar rectifier and then wires to the lights. One tip make sure the stator is generating the proper voltage to run the lights. No batterys needed.

gravelveins
12-14-2009, 10:43 PM
rad.
i had this same question for my bsa a65 that i want to run with a mag as well.
thanks kyle!

Choppedtriumphs
12-15-2009, 3:13 AM
I can't remember where I got this from; but, mabe it'll help you..
http://choppedtriumphs.net/images/joe_hunt.jpg

wllgmr
12-15-2009, 4:54 AM
Yep. thats what I am lookn for. thanks.

WILTBILT
12-15-2009, 6:54 AM
Do you have to run a Magneto? Is that the only way?

NITRO
12-15-2009, 9:00 AM
There are capacitor setups and things like that I know some people have had luck with, and mini batterys like from emergency lighting. But those drain quick, if you don't get it started first couple kicks you're outta luck

Choppedtriumphs
12-15-2009, 2:18 PM
Do you have to run a Magneto? Is that the only way?

To run "batteryless?" No, Like Kyle said the capacitor, is used to first give (with a little help from the altenator) fire to either points or an electronic Ignition system, then, usually the altenator takes over after its running,.. More like this.....I stole this one from Framus..sshh.. <a href="http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/choppedtriumphs/?action=view&current=simple_wiring_for_triumph_3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/choppedtriumphs/simple_wiring_for_triumph_3.jpg" border="0" alt="simple wiring"></a>

WILTBILT
12-15-2009, 3:32 PM
Cool I appreciate the info. I have the boyer ignition that eliminates the points. Just havent made it to that situation yet.

Jcarter78
12-19-2009, 4:09 AM
I set up my Magneto and then pcked up a sparx battery eliminator. I basically ran the sparx straight to my headlight and tail light. I only run my high beam so I set it up with no swith. They just come on when I kick over the motor.

They flicker quite a bit and dim a idle but I think if I run a cap through it as well it'll fix that a bit.

fouraceswes
12-22-2009, 12:16 AM
Remember with a Boyer, you are gonna need a battery, or at least that is my experience.

Torch
12-25-2009, 12:01 PM
Remember with a Boyer, you are gonna need a battery, or at least that is my experience.


oh shit, here it comes again........Thanks, Wes

travasesino
12-26-2009, 4:38 AM
i would also suggest running an inline fuse after your rectifier - it never hurts to have a fuse protecting electronics.

aproy
12-29-2009, 6:18 PM
i have a boyer, no battery, but i do go through cap's. and they always seem to quit at the wrong time...

Torch
12-29-2009, 7:29 PM
Remember with a Boyer, you are gonna need a battery, or at least that is my experience.

Both Boyer and Sparx make a "Battery eliminator" charge box.
They work great with either a Boyer or Sparx electronic ignition.
We put 2 or 3 a month in bikes and never have to worry about a dead battery again.
They eliminate the need of capacitors too.
Please be advised that Sparx has discontinued production of their electronic ignitions because of high failure rates, but sparx makes great stators and rectifier / regulator units.
My personal favorite is the Boyer "Light delay, battery eliminator", it will not power up your lights until your bike is running and charging at least 11 volts. It makes starting a properly tuned bike a one kick deal.

Choppedtriumphs
12-30-2009, 3:48 AM
I haven't heard that about Sparx,..Interesting though,.. I've used them succesfully on the last two I built ,..

I remember hearing the same thing about Boyers back in the 90s,.I believe they were switching their tooling, I'm sure, like Torch mentioned, They've come a long way since then,..

Another thought comes to mind,.. How many of those "bad" ones were actually bad? How many were not wired in correctly? OR wired correctly but, with a flawed stator, rotor or tympanium? and then again, How many were wired in correctly, but had other problems not related to the electrical side at all, like misadjusted carbs,combined with under/over sized exhaust, misadjusted valves, air leaks, out of time, no compression or whatever the primary cause MIGHT have been,.. and then just simply blamed on the E/I?,...

Choppedtriumphs
12-30-2009, 5:19 AM
My personal favorite is the Boyer "Light delay, battery eliminator", it will not power up your lights until your bike is running and charging at least 11 volts. It makes starting a properly tuned bike a one kick deal.

This intrests me,..tell me more about this, Is it a tympanium with a time delay built in?..A three pole start cap?,.. (I've never seen one before) Wouldn't a switch to the lights in the off position give the same results? my guess would be ,..No?

If it's not the same, and truly has a "high" voltage operated switch, I THINK I would see the benefit,.. If the lights don't come on, You're below "charging" voltage,..Your head light would work as the "idiot light." , Basicly, telling you theres a charging problem??

Educate this tired old dog,..

Torch
12-30-2009, 11:10 AM
This intrests me,..tell me more about this, Is it a tympanium with a time delay built in?..A three pole start cap?,.. (I've never seen one before) Wouldn't a switch to the lights in the off position give the same results? my guess would be ,..No?

If it's not the same, and truly has a "high" voltage operated switch, I THINK I would see the benefit,.. If the lights don't come on, You're below "charging" voltage,..Your head light would work as the "idiot light." , Basicly, telling you theres a charging problem??

Educate this tired old dog,..
I have never done an autopsy on one to find out how they work, ( i would enjoy that though) they cost about $150 and are plastic encapsulated, but here is what I can tell you. the unit is similar to a Podtronics or Tympamium or any of the solid state rectifier/regulator units except it has a built in capacitor and 2 output leads one goes to the ignition and the second goes to the lighting system.( I wire most bikes as a negative ground and use one of the standard 1157 LED replacement bulbs to cut down on demand) the first output gets priority on the power output and only after the charging system generates an excess in demand from the ignition circuit does it go to the lighting circuit.
And yes a switch to the headlight does the same thing except when the idle goes way down the whole bike shuts down, with the "light delay" system it should turn the lights off and keep the engine running.
In the past when I have done "no battery" wiring jobs I use the light switch as an anti theft device, you leave the switch on and the bike won't kick start.
Sparx makes one charge unit that has a cap inside it costs about $55 and as long as you remember about the light switch it works great.
I use both of these units to make intimations of the "ET" wiring systems for the type C and SC bikes when I cant get replacement parts.

Torch
12-30-2009, 11:34 AM
I haven't heard that about Sparx,..Interesting though,.. I've used them succesfully on the last two I built ,..

I remember hearing the same thing about Boyers back in the 90s,.I believe they were switching their tooling, I'm sure, like Torch mentioned, They've come a long way since then,..

Another thought comes to mind,.. How many of those "bad" ones were actually bad? How many were not wired in correctly? OR wired correctly but, with a flawed stator, rotor or tympanium? and then again, How many were wired in correctly, but had other problems not related to the electrical side at all, like misadjusted carbs,combined with under/over sized exhaust, misadjusted valves, air leaks, out of time, no compression or whatever the primary cause MIGHT have been,.. and then just simply blamed on the E/I?,...

Yes I remember Boyer had it's growing pains too, I still have a Sparx ignition in my bike, I had a customer that wanted it removed and switched to a boyer because of what he heard about the failure issues, so I put it in my bike and it works great. A lot of blame goes to the wrong things. We get customers that want the engine rebuilt because they are sure it couldn't be just a tuning or wiring issue. Low voltage to a electronic ignition sounds just like a blown head gasket.