PDA

View Full Version : Road King wheels on my Sporty



Flippy02
03-17-2012, 3:17 AM
I'm losing my mind on this, I've been searching for days, i'm trying to get a rear spoke roadking wheel onto my 97 sporty, the hubs seem to be about the same size, but the bearing on the spoke rim is 1' while my axle is 3/4" i'm thinking that i swap the bearings for 3/4' ones and reusing the spacers, can anyone tell me why this wouldn't work?

HotSnotRocket
03-17-2012, 7:25 AM
It will work. Changing to a 1" axle will be a PIA. Keep the 3/4" if there's a bearing.

To see if there's a bearing that will work. Go here. www.mcmaster.com Go to bearings and then put your Axle Size in the I.D. and you'll need your Outside Dia. for your existing bearing. McMaster-Carr is great for helping figure out if "it's" available and a price.

If there's no Bearing available, they probably have a bushing that will work.

punkrod
03-17-2012, 9:00 AM
I'm guessing your road king wheel has a 1" sealed bearing. You can refit it with a 3/4" wheel bearing kit. Harley part number 43854-08A. The kit includes 2 HD#9267 bearings, (52mm x 22mm x 3/4") and the center spacer and cost's about $70 at the stealership. There are aftermarket bearings available for around $20 each from all the usual suspects, (CCI, J&P, Drag, etc). Don't go cheap Chinese on wheel bearings, your life depends on them.
Take the wheel to a shop and have the old bearings removed, it's a real PITA if you don't have the tool.
There are also reducer adapters available that will allow the use of your 3/4 axle and the 1" bearings but I recommend changing the bearing.
http://www.bitterendchoppers.com/images/Wheel_Bearing_ID_Reducers2.JPG

Flippy02
03-17-2012, 11:32 AM
Who knew such a simple answer would be so hard to find, thanks for the heads up, i'm looking at the kit, and it says it fits 00-04 XL, as far as i know there wasn't much variation, but would there be enough to cause an issue?

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

bigdaddy
03-17-2012, 6:34 PM
the moco switched up the bearing sizes a lot. i have an 05 with an 03 road king wheel on the back. three dealerships told me it wouldn't work, but i talked to big mike on here, and he said it was the same hub. now, my 05 has a 1" axle. i think 05 was the only year that had 1". 06 went to 25 mm, and i can't remember what 00-04 is. i'm sure it will work. it's probably a 16x3 wheel. i was looking for a 16x3.5 wheel, and the guy on ebay told me it was. i should have paid closer attention. remember, road kings are left side drive, so you'll need to flip the tire around. it was a super easy swap for me. good luck with the bearing kit or bearing switch. the alignment should be dead on.

Flippy02
03-17-2012, 10:47 PM
don't know much about the rim like what year it came from, maybe i need to look around on it a little more, but the hub measured to be about 6.5" wide and was 16x3, and the bearings ID was around 1', and it didn't come with the rotor or sprocket, but hopefully everything just swaps over, if i'm lucky

Flippy02
03-31-2012, 1:57 AM
ok, one more questions, my old rim has tapered bearings and the new road king rims have sealed bearings, i'm at a loss for the spacers, anyone have any ideas on how this could be accomplished?

HotSnotRocket
03-31-2012, 6:07 AM
My guess is... You're going to need a 3/4" spacer (and not use the factory 1" spacer that was between the bearings (inside the hub). Spacer wise you can cut the inside spacer from black pipe.

Question. Did you get the sealed Roller Bearings in 3/4" or buy the bushings?

Flippy02
04-01-2012, 2:09 AM
sealed 3/4" bearings, but I meant the spacers on the outside of the hub

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

HandOverFist
04-01-2012, 2:20 AM
You should be able to go right back with the original spacers. These are '06 RK wheels on a '07 Sportster...

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Turbo%20install/Turboinstall021.jpg

Flippy02
04-01-2012, 11:09 PM
I know somewhere they changed to sealed bearings, my sporty has the tapered style, and the road king had sealed bearings ,I'm not sure if the spacers would be the same, but I do know this is doable

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

punkrod
04-02-2012, 3:11 PM
I've run the sealed bearings on the older bikes with the tapered bearings many times. I usually figure out the spacers as I go. Start by installing the pulley/sprocket and brake rotor on the wheel, then slip it into the bike with the brake caliper, chain/belt with the axle adjusters and no spacers. Snug the axle nut up to the swingarm but not enough to squeeze it, (about finger tight). Place the caliper mount against the swing arm and center the brake rotor in the caliper, (I usually push the brake pedal down and hold it so the caliper locks onto the rotor. The axle adjusters should be set so the rear wheel is aligned properly, (axle perpendicular to the frame) It should end up with the tire being very close to center on the bike, (if it's off by a little don't worry, the moco doesn't even put it in the middle either). Also, check your belt alignment. Hopefully, everything should line up pretty good. I double check the center of the wheel by attaching a string to the neck and running it down the center of the backbone and over the rear wheel, (tins removed). Then bust out the ruler and measure the gap between the caliper mount and the bearing on the left side then measure the bearing to the swingarm space on the right side. I use a small metal one that works for getting into tight spots. When I measure a gap and come up with a measurement that's close, I might buy a couple sizes just in case if they have them in stock. The spacers usually cost around $4 at the dealership.
Here's some HD spacer lengths and part numbers. There are more too but round your measurements close to these sizes and you should be okay:
.375 43358-83A
.5 41607-83
.65 41594-73
.75 43654-86A
.83 41595-73
.887 40910-00
.927 43617-95
.986 43683-00
1 43657-89
1.165 41591-81
1.2 41592-79
1.245 40915-94
1.25 40910-84A
1.414 43674-95
1.88 41595-00

If that doesn't work, you can get a universal axle spacer that you can cut and lathe square or one of those chopper builders spacer kits with 17 different size spacers, (spendy way to go).

Flippy02
04-02-2012, 4:14 PM
thank you so much, this is exactly the info i needed to know

Flippy02
04-05-2012, 12:53 AM
I'm gonna try to simplify this a little more, the hubs from the Road King wheel and my sportster wheel, measured about the same width, i'm hoping there isn't too much variation from my 97 and a 2000 sportster, i'm gonna get the bearings adapter kit plus the spacers from a 00-04 sportster, and hope it all goes together smoothly. unless anyone can give me a reason why it wouldn't work

Nosebleed
04-05-2012, 11:12 AM
Didn't really read everything that everyone wrote, but here's my thoughts. I have an 05 with the 1 inch rear axle. If you don't want to mess with all of the bearing stuff you could always source an 05 swingarm and axle if you could find one cheap, methinks.

I've run into problems swapping out bearings for different sizes because of the inside diameter of the hub before. Ended up having to trade around until I found the right rear wheel to fit on my 05.

Good luck with the swap!

mpybkk
04-16-2014, 8:39 AM
Just wanted to tap into this discussion as well. I picked up some 9 oke mags off a 2000 road king that had 25mm bearings. I'm trying to put them on my 2011 sportster 48, but I've got one concern. The dude sold me 2 front wheels, not a front and a rear.

So, my concern...is the rear wheel any difference in hub width? I know the bolt areas for the pulley would be different, bit I think a quick stop by a machine shop should fix that, yeah? But otherwise are the front and rear wheels basically the same?

Clockwork444
04-17-2014, 9:47 AM
the hub should be the same BUT the thread size is different for front and rear. i have a 2005 road glide front spoke on the rear of my sporty. the hub is even the same part number as a rear sportster wheel, the sizing is all the same besides the bolt sizing. you need 3/8-14 for the rotor and 7/16-14 for the sprocket if i am not mistaken. i just had it brought to a local machinist with a big press and he drilled em out and i tapped them myself. to remove the old 1" bearings i tried everything and finally gave in and put a 1" re-bar in it and welded the end to the bearing, and pounded them out. worked ok just be nice to the wheel while doing that.