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View Full Version : Stainless sissy bar - need tips



nerdsports
03-09-2012, 9:07 AM
Alright so this is the final step in my long overdue hardtail project. I bought 10' of 1/2" stainless rod to make a sissy ~2.5' above the fender. I went stainless because I want to leave it bare (no paint, clearcoat, etc). I have bullet bungs for the fender and counterbored bungs for the axle plates. My friend keeps scaring me that this will be a nightmare. Can you guys give me some pointers on bending this crap?

vnygra
03-09-2012, 9:12 AM
Heat it up and bend it. Why does he think its gonna be a nightmare?

nerdsports
03-09-2012, 9:41 AM
Heat it up and bend it. Why does he think its gonna be a nightmare?

Won't heating up stainless change its properties where it'll rust/corrode on the hot spots?

He says it's going to be a nightmare because he didn't want to heat it up and it's 1/2".

Welderjosh
03-09-2012, 9:48 AM
Won't heating up stainless change its properties where it'll rust/corrode on the hot spots?

He says it's going to be a nightmare because he didn't want to heat it up and it's 1/2".

It will only rust after you heat it if you bought some oddball stainless. Most of what's sold if you just ask for stainless is 304. You won't have any problems with rust after heat if this is what you have. It's as easy to heat and bend as any other steel. You are going to need a real torch though. Just don't get it too hot and melt the surface of the metal.

nerdsports
03-09-2012, 10:21 AM
So MAPP gas is out of the question, huh? I'll have to borrow an oxy/ace torch.

CRACK
03-09-2012, 10:53 AM
Often you can rent them pretty cheap, HF has em usually for around $300 for bottles, torch, hoses, cutting tip, welding tip, and carrying handle thing. I know its HF but the torch works exceptionally well.

nerdsports
03-09-2012, 10:57 AM
I know someone I can borrow it from. If I had a use for it regularly, I'd look into buying a set but I don't.

Welderjosh
03-09-2012, 11:03 AM
So MAPP gas is out of the question, huh? I'll have to borrow an oxy/ace torch.

I don't think the MAPP will get it hot enough. If it will, you will be there forever getting it that way. With an oxy/fuel torch you can make the heat zone real small too, so you can get a tight bend.

Deckard43
03-09-2012, 3:49 PM
Dude, we just built mine and you have to get that shit red hot! Take your time and draw out your design on a fab table first. Trust me, "take your time". Only heat up like 2 inches at a time for the bends. Heres a pic of mine. <a href="http://s1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/deckardsr/?action=view&current=ebce5723.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/deckardsr/ebce5723.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

SquashThatFly
03-10-2012, 7:58 AM
I don't think the MAPP will get it hot enough. If it will, you will be there forever getting it that way. With an oxy/fuel torch you can make the heat zone real small too, so you can get a tight bend.


MAPP gas will get it hot enough but it just takes longer to heat it and its not as localized. I just tweaked a set of 1" stainless handlears with MAPP.

Bo
03-10-2012, 11:51 AM
you better have a huge fuckin bottle of map gas, save yourself a headache and find an oxy-acetylene set up. as posted above you have to get it cherry red and bend little bit at a time, if you apply pressure too fast it will split. 304 is unforgiving compared to mild steel, it is for lack of a better term springy, but it kicks ass for a finished product. you might want to go ahead and get another ten feet for an ahh shit run.

Deckard43
03-10-2012, 12:24 PM
Yea that shit is definately springy. I split mine right on top of the bend, had to heliarc some stainless into the split and clean it up. Like i said before lay it out on a fab table and have some C clamps ready because as it cools it will reshape itself. You can literally watch it change shape as it cools, so clamp it down tight. It seems like alot of work, but its really not that bad. Post pics when your done. Good luck.

fng
03-11-2012, 9:28 AM
If you are worried that it might rusting after you heat it cut a half inch off torch it and spray it with som water and see if it rusts before you start.

cros36
03-11-2012, 10:37 AM
i just helped my buddy (and by helped i mean was in the shop doing other shit) make a sissy out of 1/2 stainless. they used oxy/acetylene. i used 5/8 mild steel, they used the same bend jig that i made for my bike here....no pictures of his sissy

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/cros36/redo/DSCF8321.jpg

nerdsports
03-11-2012, 9:39 PM
That's exactly what I want to make. I didn't have a chance to work on it this weekend

scout41
03-19-2012, 9:39 AM
Will something like this work for forging stainless? It's pretty hillbilly but you can use anything like a hairdryer or shop vac for bellows:
http://www.timlivelyknives.com/images/forge1.jpg

I'm going to call up ALRO and order some 1/2" square rod. Also heard that you can weld Flux while using these forges. Looks really cheap, even cheaper than map gas. Map just seems like a waste to me. I want to make too many bends, twists, experiment, and I'll go through a LOT of map.

Here's the link:

http://www.timlivelyknives.com/washtubforge.htm

I'll get all my questions buttoned up, but I plan on making the tub, lining it with wood ash. Hammer out the bends and flatten it out using a stump, and tack it with MIG (flux).

rustrocket84
03-19-2012, 6:10 PM
That tub is cool, but I would get that whole thing hot or find a different steel to heat. Heating up anything galvanized is a bad idea, especially in an enclosed area. It puts off toxic vapors. A metal fire ring over blocks, or even a block fire ring is a much better option.

cros36
03-19-2012, 6:45 PM
That tub is cool, but I would get that whole thing hot or find a different steel to heat. Heating up anything galvanized is a bad idea, especially in an enclosed area. It puts off toxic vapors. A metal fire ring over blocks, or even a block fire ring is a much better option.

zinc poisoning.

scout41
03-20-2012, 7:52 AM
That tub is cool, but I would get that whole thing hot or find a different steel to heat. Heating up anything galvanized is a bad idea, especially in an enclosed area. It puts off toxic vapors. A metal fire ring over blocks, or even a block fire ring is a much better option.

You're both right and that does make me nervous. I'm going to line it with adobe and the pipe is black iron.
That SHOULD be the only metal to come in contact with heat. I cut down the side opening in excess and I'll line that adobe thick on the sides so that it doesn't heat up. Hopefully I have the pipe far enough off the bottom.
Of course I'm going to use it outside since my garage/bench are saturated with oil and gas, and I may cut that tub off later and line the outside with clay to make it look pretty.
I would've considered using cinder blocks instead but I rent, so digging up the yard (I assumed) is out of the question.

scout41
03-20-2012, 8:00 AM
OH one more thing: where do you get supplied sheet metal? I need 3/16" to fab up some motor/fwd mounts, and only need a 1x1 sheet at most. ALRO supplys them in 96"x48" sheets in 3/16" thick, that's WAY too big. ALRO would be good for rod and tubing, but sheet metal is too large.
I did find a recycler that goes around and picks up stuff on sunday. He had a piece of cast iron railing that would work, and might have some old bike frames that I could pull the tubing off for handlebars. That stuff is great for practice but I'd rather use stainless on the bike. I'd have to find a decent chrome shop, the good one I heard about word of mouth is 200 miles from here. If it's a PITA I'll just use that shop.

cros36
03-20-2012, 12:16 PM
OH one more thing: where do you get supplied sheet metal? I need 3/16" to fab up some motor/fwd mounts, and only need a 1x1 sheet at most. ALRO supplys them in 96"x48" sheets in 3/16" thick, that's WAY too big. ALRO would be good for rod and tubing, but sheet metal is too large.
I did find a recycler that goes around and picks up stuff on sunday. He had a piece of cast iron railing that would work, and might have some old bike frames that I could pull the tubing off for handlebars. That stuff is great for practice but I'd rather use stainless on the bike. I'd have to find a decent chrome shop, the good one I heard about word of mouth is 200 miles from here. If it's a PITA I'll just use that shop.

the alro by me sells drops for usally 89 cents a pound. besides tube thats all i buy. i guess im just bragging tho.

speedymetals.com sells pretty much anything you could ever want tho.

scout41
03-21-2012, 8:07 AM
Thanks, I'll call them up. I stopped by a metal fab shop yesterday and they mentioned drops and a shop north of me, I'll have to get to it.