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CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 2:43 PM
Ok guys, bear with me. I've done some research and have now sufficiently confused myself.

I'm planning to relocate the switches off of my handlebars and have a couple questions about amperage and what-not. what I'm working with are the following:

2x Toggle switch, rated at 12v 20 amps, one for HI/LOW and one for kill ON/OFF.

2x Momentary push buttons, rated 12v 60 amps, one for horn one for starter.


Question is this, will I need a relay for the starter, or will those ratings be enough to handle the juice? Really, what am I missing/forgetting?

Thanks in advance...

Saltytonk
01-20-2012, 2:46 PM
I left the factory starter relay in mine, its pretty unobstrusive.

tattoo2303
01-20-2012, 2:49 PM
yeah unless your working with hardtail frame/aftermarket oil tank- the starter relay is just that little box tucked up behind the oil tank- why not just leave that one there?

REV
01-20-2012, 2:49 PM
efi or non efi?

helps to know,i have posted up diagrams of it all.

if it were me (and this is what i did) ditch the horn. if you added a solenoid push button, you wouldnt need a switch to start it or a relay.

but if you run it, you should still have the stock relay, just unhook the bar switch, move wires to new toggle. done

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 2:53 PM
Killer, thanks guys. I honestly haven't looked at it yet, just finally realized I have the perfect spot to move my switches so I can stop banging the tank and thought I'd make sure all the ratings I was looking at are up to snuff. Bike's an '01, so it's carbed.


Next question, for the toggles will I need single pole or dual? Like I said, there will be a seperate button for the starter, so I'm guessing single would be fine for a simple kill switch?

Rudehog
01-20-2012, 2:59 PM
The relay's job is to work as a reliable hi current switch that can be actuated by a smaller low amp pushbutton which allows you to hide a small switch wherever you want.

Rudehog
01-20-2012, 3:00 PM
Kill switch......single pole

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 3:05 PM
Swwwweeeeeeeet. Thanks guys.

punkrod
01-20-2012, 3:09 PM
The factory starter relay is rated at 30amps. You can replace it with a 30 amp or higher rated pushbutton. Done it many times.

Nosebleed
01-20-2012, 3:25 PM
This is making me nervous just reading it. Thankfully I'm no where near the wiring stage. I think that my plans are similar to yours though Coyote/Salty, move the switches off of the bars and simplify with toggles/pushbuttons on the side cover.

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 3:26 PM
Yeah I'm a little sketchy about wiring too, but hey, do it or don't, no in between. And in my case, it really needs to be done, or my tanks gonna get fucked.

Saltytonk
01-20-2012, 3:45 PM
It is intimidating , stareing at 9 miles of multi colored wire. BUT.... once you wrap your mind around it , it's not that hard. Study REV, Billdozer, NHMike and Tattoo2303 wire diagrams. Between those 4 wireing diagrams you should be able to get an idea for any late model Sporty.
Get a test light and a cheap HF multimeter various connectors and have at it.
When in doubt , put a fuseable linc in. Better to burn a fuse , than to let the smoke out of a
componant.

Trust me I was plenty nervous when I tore into mine. Which is running , but havent road tested yet because some other stuff isnt done yet. But anyway nothing has been more educational and confidence building than tackleing the wiring and pulling it off!

If I can do it anybody can. Nike up!:cheersmate:

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 3:51 PM
HA! Thanks for the vote of confidence Salty, I'll keep you guys posted once it's done.

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 4:12 PM
Ok last question, anyone know what the stock wiring guage is? I think it's 14, but not positive.

Rudehog
01-20-2012, 4:16 PM
The factory starter relay is rated at 30amps. You can replace it with a 30 amp or higher rated pushbutton. Done it many times.


Yea that can be done easily but the 30amp or higher pushbutton switch is huge compared to a "Micro pushbutton" switch and you would need to run at least a 10 or 12 ga wire to it and the micro switch would only need a 16 to 18 ga wire which is easier to hide.

Like I said before the use of a relay allows you to put a small switch and small ga wire anywhere you want.

The only time I eliminate the relay is when I am putting a pushbutton right on the starter solonoid.

Im not knocking a big switch in any way, this is just the way I like to do it :cheersmate:

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 4:19 PM
Ok Rudehog, how about if I'm using stock wiring straight into a new switch? As in, cut out the old switches, wire in new switches. Because that's the plan.

CoyoteUSP
01-20-2012, 4:29 PM
Here's the momentary in question, and yes, it's big as shit. Requires a .625" mounting hole.

http://www.k-four.net/Product.aspx?pid=52#


Thinking I might try something smaller, since apparently the stock starter relay will allow for it? If that's the case, do I just run the stock wire to a smaller guage wire, or what?

DAMNIT! Back to being corn-fused again!

punkrod
01-20-2012, 5:17 PM
I've used that switch. It's a good one. The factory wiring is 16 gage for most of the bike. In cases where I've used that switch instead of the relay, I use the stock green wire that comes off the solenoid and attch it to one of the leads of the switch. The other goes to the battery. It would be a good idea to use larger wire but I figure if the solenoid is wired with 16 gage from the factory then it's okay. Just keep the wiring as short as possible. I usually mount the switch somewhere near the starter like a panel under the seat area anyway.

brooklynbomber
01-20-2012, 7:02 PM
MIght be a stupid question, but why would you get rid of the horn (as the one member suggested)?

Saltytonk
01-20-2012, 7:25 PM
Well I've never used my horn on either bike. Dont really want one , but gotta have one to pass inspection in Texas.

brooklynbomber
01-20-2012, 7:44 PM
Yeah, I guess it makes sense in areas not densely populated or regulated by inspections. I live in Brooklyn, densely populated and fucked by inspections.

REV
01-21-2012, 12:29 AM
and i can yell louder than the fucking horn. and if that dont work, my steel toe dr martens in the door usually gets some reaction.

RoperDKC
09-30-2013, 10:25 AM
Ok Rudehog, how about if I'm using stock wiring straight into a new switch? As in, cut out the old switches, wire in new switches. Because that's the plan.



Maaan this is apparently a million dollar question, I can't seem to get an answer either. I'm planning on yanking the wires out of the stock switches and rerouting them down to my side covers and into some new switches. Easier said than done, I'm sure...
Have you found an answer to this, or did it work for you? Hacking into perfectly working wires is the most intimidating thing ever. Thanks a ton dude!

SOK
04-29-2014, 11:31 AM
Yo I'm currently working on clearing up the bars on my nightster and I was planning on using these momentary mini push buttons for my blinkers

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331090040203

Because the are momentary does that mean I will have to hold them down in order for the blinker to keep blinking? Or will it work like the stock controls push-on push-off?

Thanks!

BrokenSprocketGarage
04-30-2014, 6:01 AM
Wow, just saw this thread for the first time.
SOK - If you are using the stock turn signal canceller, those switches should work as stock.

Couple other things; Stock wire gauge is mostly 16ga. Solenoid switching (green) wire is 14ga. Generally speaking the higher the amperage required in the circuit, the larger the gauge of wire required. For a 30A push button I would use 12ga wire on both sides. I do not recommend making any additional connections directly to a battery post. I make auxilliary battery cables for that purpose. Multiple connections at a battery post always loosen up. As stated earlier a relay is a switch that uses low amperage switching to control a hi amperage function.47935

As a shameless self promotion. I custom make wire harnesses to your specific bike. Mostly plug and play, cloth or regular wire, single fire ignitions at a great price. Check out Broken Sprocket Garage in the Chopmarket.