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billdozer
06-21-2011, 11:19 PM
One of the common questions I hear quite a bit is "How do I get rid of all the bullshit wiring on my Evo Sportster"?

It's really not rocket science, especially on earlier ones but it can be intimidating to hack up the bundle of perfectly operating wires just for the sake of getting the bare-bones aesthetic.

For this thread we are using BF Josh's 2002 Sportster "S" model with dual plug heads. Other models and years will vary, but the concept will be the same. If you asked ten people how to do it, you'd probably get twenty answers, this ain't gospel, it's just the way I did it. And it worked, has way less snarl of an unsightly harness, especially now that more of the bike is exposed with a flat bottomed tank, fiberglass tail section, etc.

On Josh's stock bike there were no fancy sensors or other "nanny" switches that needed to be looped or disabled. This may be the case on later model bikes. We ditched the VOES petcock for an old Pingle one, and capped any open vacuum connections on carb or manifold with high quality rubber caps.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858713451/" title="Factory 2002 Sporty Wiring Diagram by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2715/5858713451_fcc4f219fa_z.jpg" width="640" height="438" alt="Factory 2002 Sporty Wiring Diagram"></a>

An extremely helpful thing is a factory wiring diagram. I was lucky enough to get one from a guy in PDF form. I blew it up and printed it out onto eight pages, taped them together and hung it on the wall where I was working for reference. Once I thought I was sure about what was going where, I highlighted the wires I was keeping and you can see how many that left for the trash. I did my FXR the same way and a 90's era sporty without one and it was way easier to have a real diagram to reference.

Tools needed:

Test Light
Crimpers / wire cutters
Dialectric Grease
Heat Shrink tubing 3/16" and 1/4" and a little 1/2"
Electric heat gun
Basic hand tools for removing mechanical parts
Butt connectors
Spade connectors
Ring connectors
1,000 Zip Ties
Two-position Toggle Switch
2) 30 amp resettable circuit breakers
1) 15 amp resettable circuit breakers
Blue tape
Sharpie

Note: Remember how I said everyone does things differently? I use circuit breakers and solderless connections. Most people use solder and fuses and the factory uses auto-reset breakers. I don't care for those because I can't tell when one has popped and standing around waiting to see if one resets seems too passive. I wanna know, then I can chase the problem and try to figure out if there is a short somewhere. A lot of old desert racers swear that solder can make the wires brittle and prefer crimped type connectors (and resettable breakers, ever see the dash on an off-road race car?) Anyway, it's worked for me in the past, so why change? On the subject of solderless connections, I use the good ones, with no plastic insulation. I put a little dab of dialectric grease in each one, make sure it is crimped properly and use the smallest heat shrink possible for a tight fit. If you like solder, use it. Same with fuses, but put them somewhere you can get at on the road, not under a tank that takes twenty minutes to pull off. For switches and breakers, try to find the kind with screw-on connections, use your ring connectors in the proper size and put a dab of silicone or liquid electrical tape over the conection once you are sure everything is hooked up in the right place.

Continued...

billdozer
06-21-2011, 11:37 PM
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858763471/" title="old loom by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5858763471_ab48133a32_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="old loom"></a>

So the first we did was take off all of the wiring harness, without cutting anything. OK, maybe one or two wires, but that was after trying really hard to keep the whole thing intact. We left a few things in place so we could use factory cannon plugs to reconnect when we were ready. To do this, we removed all hand controls, gas tank, battery, battery box, seat and if it had a rear fender we would have taken that off too. The panel next to and behind the battery which housed fuses and circuit breakers was removed. If you have to cut a wire, make it in the middle if you can, so you have room to reconnect if need be, and strip back all the loom cover that you can before doing so, this way you can recreate the loom on the bench if you are trying to figure something out. Simply cutting wires you think you don't need, taping them up and stuffing them under the tank is not a great way to do this, though lots of people do it that way.

Things we unplugged and left in place:

Voltage regulator. No need to remove, just unplug the one wire that comes out and runs up towards the battery.

The ignition module. It the two little boxes bolted under the seat, one grey, one black. Remove the factory cannon plugs and just leave it in place.

Wires coming from the bottom of the engine with the triangular-shaped plug. This is coming from your stock ignition cam sensor plate.

Positive wire that goes from battery to starter. No need to remove from starter. It's just going to go back on.

Don't throw away anything from your stock loom, you are going to need lots of these little factory plugs. They work great, have the stock colored wire coming in and out of them, etc.

billdozer
06-21-2011, 11:57 PM
The next thing we did was figure out what physical things we needed and where they were going to go.

A two-position toggle switch for the headlight was mounted in the existing hole on the outside of the top motor mount. We removed the stock acorn nut and plastic triangle thingy and drilled out the hole to accept the switch. Josh uses a high beam-only off road light, hence the two-position switch. You might use a three-position if you want a high beam, or you may choose to run it hard wired so the light comes on with the key and no switch is needed. (I like to be able to turn off the light if the battery is weak, just to conserve juice.)

Obviously a headlight and tail light. Figure out where that tail light is gonna mount and how it will ground.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5859266158/" title="ignition switch by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3226/5859266158_d14a23473c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="ignition switch"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858236661/" title="Backside of Battery Tray by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5233/5858236661_aab5249ff5_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Backside of Battery Tray"></a>

Ignition switch. We chose to relocate Josh's on the side of his battery box. I welded a small tab that it could rest on and so it couldn't rotate when turning the key. We drilled through the battery box and used the stock, single small bolt to hold it in place. I ground off the other castings in the plastic so it looks fairly round.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858788382/" title="Panel Clips by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5147/5858788382_7f3e9af49a_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Panel Clips"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858713557/" title="circuit breakers by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5858713557_f35331ab8a_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="circuit breakers"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858788466/" title="Side Panel by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5268/5858788466_033eda489c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Side Panel"></a>

With all the stock breakers and whatnot out of the way rear of the battery, there is no way to hold on the metal cover. Clip-on nuts slide right over the tabs and give a good spot for SS 1/4x20 bolts to hold it all in place. We drilled this cover to accept the three resettable circuit breakers. This keeps them close to the battery and out of the way, but still accessible. We marked the breakers and held the panel in place with zip ties at first and then buttoned it all up at the end.

Update: On the breakers, they are not wired like a fuse, where either connection can be used. Power should go into the connector marked "Line" and out to your accessory or whatever needs power from the "Load" connection. Thanks to Brandon for that super useful bit of information!

Another thing we unlpugged but left in place was the stock, rear brake switch. No need to relocate it.

billdozer
06-22-2011, 12:32 AM
That's the fun stuff, figuring out where to put stuff, how to mount it all cleanly, etc. Next, the work comes-making function.

I looked at the factory wiring diagram and decided to highlight what we needed. The coil needs to get plugged in, so follow those wires to the ignition module. Note that one T's off and goes to the stock hand controls. This wire will need to be connected to the "IGN" side of the ignition switch. The wires we left hanging (with stock connector intact) coming from cam position sensor will need to end up connecting to the ignition module.

I started with the black wire coming out of the voltage regulator. I found the stock plug in the loom, and the black wire that comes out of it. I trimmed back enough of the protective covering to get a good length of the stock wire and clipped it off. I added a few feet of the same gauge, same black color wire to the end, and plugged it into the connection still hanging on the bike. Then, fed the wire up under the engine, but on top of the frame rails (always!) and made sure it was out of the way of exhaust and any moving parts. I pulled it out near the battery and made sure I had an extra couple of feet just in case. This wire will send juice from your VR to your battery, it is your charging system, so route it nicely. Eventually, I terminated mine on one of the 30 amp breakers and ran a hot from the battery to the other post on that breaker. This way if the VR starts freaking out, the breaker will pop.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858788236/" title="Stock Coil Plug by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2683/5858788236_25100e9851_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Stock Coil Plug"></a>
(Stock plug to coil)

Next, I figured the coil needed some juice. I found the stock connector on the harness (on the bench), grabbed as much wire as possible with it and clipped it off. I patched in as much wire as needed (all black, but labeled on the end with tape) so those wires could reach their home at the ignition module. Then, I cut the cannon plugs off the bench loom, again leaving plenty of wire to be able to work with. Note that the Black/White wire T's off and goes to the "IGN" circuit brreaker to send power to the coil. I used a little extra from the loom so that this wire is the factory color. (Who knows who's working on this thing in ten years, might as well make it easy on us and them.) I took the labeled ends of these three wires and connected them to the appropriate wires on the stock ignition module cannon plug. Using the same procedure for the wires coming out of the Cam Sensor, I used the stock plug under the engine, added wire and tied it into the appropriate wires on the cannon plug at the module. Once both of the cannon plugs were pushed into the ignition module, there were a few wires left over. Rather than just leave them hanging or an unsightly tangle, I cut them to about six inches long (just in case we need them later) bent them over neatly and zip tied them in a little bundle. Once I confirmed that they were not needed (bike started and ran) I put a little piece of small heat shrink on each and then bundled them together and slipped a large piece of heat shrink over the bundle and sealed them up. This way if we ever want to go back, we can get at them, but in the meantime they won't be shorting out or causing problems.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858236331/" title="Ignition Module Bundle by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2782/5858236331_3158053e9e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Ignition Module Bundle"></a>
All wrapped up. The unused wires on the gray module were: V/W, LT GN/R and V/R. The unused ones on the black module were: BK/Y, LTGN/GY and PK.

Two Black wires that come out of the Black module were grounded.

This is a lot of reading, so looking at a revised diagram might help. Here's the highlighted one:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858236779/" title="Diagram by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5858236779_eee9561de7_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Diagram"></a>

and a hand drawn one I made:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858670713/" title="2002_Sporty_Diagram_Reduced by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5106/5858670713_94236b43fb_z.jpg" width="549" height="640" alt="2002_Sporty_Diagram_Reduced"></a>

That's all for tonight, I'll do the ignition switch and lights tomorrow after I proof this stuff to make sure I've got it right for ya.

scottylook
06-22-2011, 7:55 AM
Just did my 02 as well. So nice without all them dam wires. Great idea on those clip on nuts for the side iggy cover. I know the S model has some more needed wiring, great job. So did you ditch the voes all together? What ignition are you guys running?

Wayland137
06-22-2011, 8:36 AM
This is a great how to. Love the look!

billdozer
06-22-2011, 8:56 AM
Just did my 02 as well. So nice without all them dam wires. Great idea on those clip on nuts for the side iggy cover. I know the S model has some more needed wiring, great job. So did you ditch the voes all together? What ignition are you guys running?

VOES is completely gone, stock ignition.

scottylook
06-22-2011, 1:18 PM
VOES is completely gone, stock ignition.

Nice, are you notacing any ill effects. I have heard allot of different opinions on this

billdozer
06-22-2011, 2:35 PM
Nice, are you notacing any ill effects. I have heard allot of different opinions on this

Not yet. Bike only has a few miles on it so far, so I'll let you know if it does but so far it runs fine. I did the same thing on a '97 a couple years ago and ran that bike several thousand miles in lots of conditions, altitudes, etc and didn't have any probs.

billdozer
06-22-2011, 2:48 PM
Once the coils, voltage regulator and ignition modules were all hooked up it was time for the simpler stuff; ignition switch and lights.

The stock ignition switch has three wires coming out the back. One is where power goes in, one is where power goes out in the "accessory" position, one is powered in the "ignition" position. Note, when the key is in the "ignition" position, power is also going to the "accessory" wire.

To figure out which wire is which, hook a jumper wire from the battery to one wire and then see which of the other two light up when the key is in various positions. Label these wires since they are all red.

We ran a power lead from the pos side of the battery to a 30 amp breaker and then over to the "Power in" wire on the back of the switch.

Then from the "accessory" wire, we ran a wire to a 15 amp breaker for the lights. Out of the other post on the breaker, a lead was connected to the headlight switch, the brake light switch and the tail light.

Check the hand drawn schematic to understand this better.

Don't forget that you generally have to ground your headlight and tail light. For the headlight, I run a wire back to the front tank mount on the frame, rather than let it ground through the head tube bearings. (Not sure if that's an old wive's tale or not, but it seems logical.)

I went ahead and started the bike and tested the lights before going back over everything and making sure that everything was zip tied together and to the frame or other hard parts to avoid chaffing or other damage. Always run wires above the bottom of the frame rails so they don't get scraped and watch out for things like swingarms, belts, chains and pullies.

Good luck and have fun!

Incrediblah
06-22-2011, 3:15 PM
Thanks a bunch for this. I'm aaaaaaalmost ready to wire up my 99, and I was a little worried. This should help a lot.

doppleganger87
06-23-2011, 3:09 AM
yea i agree..its nice to see how others have done theirs!i gutted my loom while home on leave and had to come back to the stan with my bike not in running order!ive been told by removing the switches on the bar i have to find a new hot wire for my pink wire on the coil..also need to wire the headlight back up..i still have the orange and white wires from i believe the turn signals if i remember correctly?that are hot wires that i think ill connect the headlight to and maybe wire my coil to a power out off the ignition..just an idea i had but im not entirely sure it would be the safest route

TheSandman
06-26-2011, 7:29 PM
Thinking of doing this to my 02 if it doesn't sell.

Have you come up with anything for the horn or headlight switch location? That's the only problem I seem to be having before I dive into mine.

Curious to see other's ideas too.

Hedstrong
06-27-2011, 10:54 AM
Damn you Bill! I was just going to move my Coil and now "I am back into the wiring harness again.

Hedstrong
06-29-2011, 6:30 PM
Hey Bill or anyone really. I am redoing a 96 sportster with this guide and my main circuit breaker is a 50amp. I got 2 resettable 30's, can I get buy with the 30 amp breakers or is this thing really in need of the 50?

Hedstrong
06-29-2011, 6:41 PM
Hey guys found my answer and here is a link I found this guy has several well layed out wiring guides
http://home.roadrunner.com/~embedded/

billdozer
06-29-2011, 6:44 PM
Hey Bill or anyone really. I am redoing a 96 sportster with this guide and my main circuit breaker is a 50amp. I got 2 resettable 30's, can I get buy with the 30 amp breakers or is this thing really in need of the 50?

Hed, I'm no electrical engineer, but I've been getting by fine with 30amp breakers on the ignition circuit on several bikes with zero probs. None of those run an external starter switch though, they've all been HD's with a push-button on the end of the solenoid. If you keep some kind of other start button you will need the starter relay as far as I know.

Dopple- I'd find a real schematic if you can, it's way better than trying to remember something you did months ago.

Sandman, we ditched the horn, and put the headlight switch in the left side of the motormount, where there is a plastic v-shaped cover with an acorn nut. We removed the acorn, opened up that hole slightly and a toggle fit right in.

WOMPY
06-29-2011, 8:01 PM
A trick place for a headlight switch is the head gusset. I put a sealed 20A short toggle on my buddy's bike there. Came out perfectly unnoticeable!!

Hedstrong
06-29-2011, 8:09 PM
Thanks for the quick reply's guys. Yep made sure I kept the start button relay JIC ( didnt know what it was at the time)

WOMPY can you circle where you are talking about on a picture, or tell me no XD

weentron
06-29-2011, 8:33 PM
This is all stuff I have thought over but haven't personally done, so correct me if I am wrong.

If you get a start button that is rated for 30A or better you should be able to ditch the starter relay.

I currently have all the wiring on my '95 laying on my work bench so I've been geeking out on this thread and that one Jakemon wiring diagram.

Either way I was thinking about doing a 4 position ignition switch on my set up.

So I'd have12v Power coming in from the main 30A fuse/breaker to the key switch, OFF position, ACCESSORY position (power to a 15A fuse/breaker for lights), RUN position(power to a 15A fuse/breaker for the coil/electronic ignition), and momentary START (power to the starter.)

TheSandman
06-30-2011, 4:36 AM
WOMPY can you circle where you are talking about on a picture, or tell me no XD

I think he's talking about the upper, center motor mount.

Correct me if I'm wrong though.

WOMPY
06-30-2011, 10:48 PM
<a href="http://s581.photobucket.com/albums/ss255/wompy5000/?action=view&amp;current=timhdltswitch2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/ss255/wompy5000/timhdltswitch2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Hedstrong
06-30-2011, 11:01 PM
Thanks wompy, I may use that.

I decided to stick my key under battery box

wiseowl73
07-30-2011, 11:38 PM
Stupified, plain and simple.
I'm no electrical whiz. That being said, I have had my main mechanic buddy toil and sweat over this problem for a couple weeks until he threw up his hands and resigned. :( So I called up a buddy who wired up my old Ironhead Sporty, and he seemed really confident at first. Two trips to my garage later, and a complete rewire following the diagrams on this post, he is likewise stumped. :mad:
I'm freaking out here! The latest bit of speculation is that my ignition control module is bad. Is there some way of testing this, so I am not just blindly dropping loot on something that may or may not be the culprit? As far as I know, it's wired correctly. But still no spark. Coil gets hot, gas is getting into the carb, starter works, has a push button on the solenoid.
I mean jesus...it's only a 94 evo sporty... how fucking hard can it be to diagnose and get it going? I was gonna take this bike to Sturgis, and now it seems I might be up a shit creek.:banghead:
I wish I could give more details, but my level of tech ability is far outshadowed by the two pros who gave up on my shit.
Any input/ ideas appreciated.

imtheslime
07-31-2011, 1:09 AM
Great post. I'm about to take this on with a 95 I just got. The po went ape shit with dykes and wire nuts.

Hedstrong
07-31-2011, 7:23 AM
Stupified, plain and simple.
I'm no electrical whiz. That being said, I have had my main mechanic buddy toil and sweat over this problem for a couple weeks until he threw up his hands and resigned. :( So I called up a buddy who wired up my old Ironhead Sporty, and he seemed really confident at first. Two trips to my garage later, and a complete rewire following the diagrams on this post, he is likewise stumped. :mad:
I'm freaking out here! The latest bit of speculation is that my ignition control module is bad. Is there some way of testing this, so I am not just blindly dropping loot on something that may or may not be the culprit? As far as I know, it's wired correctly. But still no spark. Coil gets hot, gas is getting into the carb, starter works, has a push button on the solenoid.
I mean jesus...it's only a 94 evo sporty... how fucking hard can it be to diagnose and get it going? I was gonna take this bike to Sturgis, and now it seems I might be up a shit creek.:banghead:
I wish I could give more details, but my level of tech ability is far outshadowed by the two pros who gave up on my shit.
Any input/ ideas appreciated.

Hell man, if you can run a wire crimper and read, you'll be fine. I believe in you. Check for spark and pull A/C over and visually confirm you have a nice spray of fuel for us?
I "heard" mine shooting fuel but it was not at one time and point.
I will check back on my lunch break

tattoo2303
07-31-2011, 7:33 AM
Start a new thread on this and list as much as you can about what was done and try to include what wires were removed, spliced to what and so on- I worked on the wiring for my 93 (which I think is the same) and in the end feel really confident about it- ill help ya as much as I can

rus
07-31-2011, 9:39 AM
bill (or anyone else who can read better than me)

did you run a separate starter button, or are you running a car-like keyed starter?

and for those circuit breakers, you just cut all the wires to the fuse box and connected them to those little breakers? fucking genius. that box is taking up so much space on mine. gonna have to ape that shit.

tobiism
07-31-2011, 10:57 AM
bill (or anyone else who can read better than me)

did you run a separate starter button, or are you running a car-like keyed starter?

and for those circuit breakers, you just cut all the wires to the fuse box and connected them to those little breakers? fucking genius. that box is taking up so much space on mine. gonna have to ape that shit.

he's running a mechanical push button directly on the end of the starter solenoid.
like this-
http://www.debrix.com/Solenoid-Cover-Starter-Button-1991-up-Harley-Big-T-p/17762-m1.htm

billdozer
07-31-2011, 12:38 PM
bill (or anyone else who can read better than me)

did you run a separate starter button, or are you running a car-like keyed starter?

and for those circuit breakers, you just cut all the wires to the fuse box and connected them to those little breakers? fucking genius. that box is taking up so much space on mine. gonna have to ape that shit.

Rus, yeah I removed the fuse box and stock breakers and just replaced them with the three breakers shown. Once you get rid of all the blinkers and junk you don't really need all that stuff. Tobiism is right, it's just a push
Button starter, super simple.

tobiism
07-31-2011, 12:53 PM
Stupified, plain and simple.
I'm no electrical whiz. That being said, I have had my main mechanic buddy toil and sweat over this problem for a couple weeks until he threw up his hands and resigned. :( So I called up a buddy who wired up my old Ironhead Sporty, and he seemed really confident at first. Two trips to my garage later, and a complete rewire following the diagrams on this post, he is likewise stumped. :mad:
I'm freaking out here! The latest bit of speculation is that my ignition control module is bad. Is there some way of testing this, so I am not just blindly dropping loot on something that may or may not be the culprit? As far as I know, it's wired correctly. But still no spark. Coil gets hot, gas is getting into the carb, starter works, has a push button on the solenoid.
I mean jesus...it's only a 94 evo sporty... how fucking hard can it be to diagnose and get it going? I was gonna take this bike to Sturgis, and now it seems I might be up a shit creek.:banghead:
I wish I could give more details, but my level of tech ability is far outshadowed by the two pros who gave up on my shit.
Any input/ ideas appreciated.

How did you delete the bank angle sensor? The green/grey wire needs to be tied into ground.

That bank angle sensor gives a LOT of people grief when they rewire.

rus
07-31-2011, 2:12 PM
bank angle sensor...
bill can probably answer but from what i remember there are 3 wires. you tie two of them together, cap the other. can't remember which, but if you google it eventually you'll find it. i believe i got the info off xlforum

Bill,
if I'm keeping signals, can i still get rid of the fuse block and just add another circuit, or will it cause some unknown issues? i don't want signals, but i want tickets even less. plus, i like the challenge of trying to do them in a real tasteful way.

tattoo2303
07-31-2011, 8:33 PM
I don't think a 94 should have a bank angle sensor- the 2 wres that need to be tied together are the white and grey wires its essentially over riding or cancelling the kill switch

OneOfThem
08-01-2011, 2:40 PM
Great thread. I have to tackle this soon.

billdozer
08-16-2011, 12:00 AM
Stupified, plain and simple.
I'm no electrical whiz. That being said, I have had my main mechanic buddy toil and sweat over this problem for a couple weeks until he threw up his hands and resigned. :( So I called up a buddy who wired up my old Ironhead Sporty, and he seemed really confident at first. Two trips to my garage later, and a complete rewire following the diagrams on this post, he is likewise stumped. :mad:
I'm freaking out here! The latest bit of speculation is that my ignition control module is bad. Is there some way of testing this, so I am not just blindly dropping loot on something that may or may not be the culprit? As far as I know, it's wired correctly. But still no spark. Coil gets hot, gas is getting into the carb, starter works, has a push button on the solenoid.
I mean jesus...it's only a 94 evo sporty... how fucking hard can it be to diagnose and get it going? I was gonna take this bike to Sturgis, and now it seems I might be up a shit creek.:banghead:
I wish I could give more details, but my level of tech ability is far outshadowed by the two pros who gave up on my shit.
Any input/ ideas appreciated.

Did you get this resolved? If you truly have no spark but are getting power to the coil then it must be somewhere between your ignition in the cone and the module. Do you have a diagram for your year? The 94 is not going to be the same as the 2002 I showed. Retrace that portion, and don't tidy it all up until you know you are getting spark. Check that all grounds are grounded and not just snipped off. Make double sure its not a gas issue with the Voes petcock not flowing fuel.

OneOfThem
08-17-2011, 10:56 PM
Cut down the hand controls. Didn't touch the bulk of the wire bundle short of just cutting it back to where the coil/key switch are. Moved the hi/low switch to the top of the light. Installed a starter button on the solenoid. The pic I posted is huge. You can see it on http://www.visegripmc.com

KackAttack
08-25-2011, 7:19 AM
well my bro in law and i redid the wiring on my 01' 1200 , we kept the factory self reseting breakers and all , used a microswitch for the start button.
all seemed well untill after he left , i got the rest of the bike together and went to start it and its acting like the batt is dead. i just hear starter clicking.
(probably bad idea) but i tried to jump it with the car since i dont have a batt charger. it started once, while i was setting the the idle the choke snapped back in and killed it now i cant get it to start again.(even hooked to the car batt.)
the voltage on the battery is reading 12-13 and i dont see any reading at all when i jump from the ground terminal to a ground on the frame.
so as far as i can tell there is no draw there. do you all think i will be ok if i can just get my hands on a trickle charger?

EvilEvo
11-03-2011, 11:34 PM
I am in the middle of a re wire on my 96, but Im hung up on an Issue. I am not getting spark out of my coil either. My bike is stock without a bank angle sensor. I'm getting power to the coil and my voes and cam position sensor. Any ideas? Can a coil take shit like that, its been sitting for a week.

Tito
11-04-2011, 2:05 AM
^^^^^^^^^^Did you mess with the control pods on the bars? Mainly the kill switch?

EvilEvo
11-04-2011, 3:18 AM
Yes I eliminated them, I've been trying to gather info about that. Something about jumping or looping it? But the thing is, I don't have any wires left to use..

tattoo2303
11-04-2011, 7:05 AM
without really knowing what youve done id say locate your grey and your white wires they need to be connected, what the kill switch does is cut the juice to your coil via the white wire.

coils- not typically you can bench test a coil by having the hot wire attached and tapping a hot wire against the other post post, and watch for spark at the plug. **read up on this ive done it but it was about a year ago and im a little fuzzy on how i did it.

heres something i made up-
http://www.choppercreeps.blogspot.com/p/sportster-simplified-wiring.html

EvilEvo
11-04-2011, 10:42 AM
Ok what ive done Is eliminate any wire possible beside head light, rear tail/brake, and ign. I do not have a gray or white wire to spare lol. I'm thinking if there is a way to tap in to power from my ign breaker to my w/bk coil wire..ya or nay? Wire a kill switch in between you know.
And as far as the bench test goes, my manual even suggests that and I tried it but got no spark still. But I can't understand how my coil can take a shit by sitting.

doppleganger87
11-04-2011, 11:12 AM
i think i wired my white/black to a hot wire in my key ignition..like accessory maybe..anyways this works powering and killing power to the coil..ho0pe this helps??

tattoo2303
11-04-2011, 11:14 AM
^^bingo

what color are the 2 wires going to your coil? and were do they come from? your coil system works like this- one wire ONLY comes from your control module (pink in my case- and on the diagram) that is what is intermitent power controlled by your ignition basically switching on/off over and over. the other wire (white in the diagram) is a constant on when your bike is turned on.

if you look at the diagram the white lead goes from the key switch to a breaker, a grey wire comes out of the breaker and goes to where the kill switch used to be in the diagram i have it just connected to the white wire by a black bar

there is also a white wire from your control module, if you did away with all that stuff - you still need to get power to that wire some how.

you dont need to wire in a kill switch, just run a hot lead from your mean of turning on the bike to the white wire when you turn the bike off itll kill it by taking the power away from the coil

EvilEvo
11-04-2011, 1:21 PM
We must have conflicting modules because both my coil wires come out of my module and I don't have a solid white wire. Which wire provides power to the coil pink or w/bk?

tattoo2303
11-04-2011, 1:42 PM
We must have conflicting modules because both my coil wires come out of my module and I don't have a solid white wire. Which wire provides power to the coil pink or w/bk?

id guess the w/bk, chances are before you cut up your system you had 2 wires going to that post on your coil, one would have come direct from your control module the other would have ran all over the bike to tie into your kill switch. id run a lead from your ignition switch to the w/bk wire and see what happens

EvilEvo
11-04-2011, 2:05 PM
I'm already on it, I just got home with a switch. I'll post my findings. Thanks hombre.

rccycle
11-04-2011, 2:30 PM
building a rigid with a 2005 sportster motor. can this thing be wired without all the crap? just want the motor to run, the rest is easy!!!

tattoo2303
11-04-2011, 3:05 PM
building a rigid with a 2005 sportster motor. can this thing be wired without all the crap? just want the motor to run, the rest is easy!!!

what crap specifically? check this its pretty bare- still uses the 3 stock circuit breakers and a marine ignition switch

http://www.choppercreeps.blogspot.com/p/sportster-simplified-wiring.html

you basically can break your wiring down to 3 groups
-lights
-starting/running
-charging

EvilEvo
11-04-2011, 5:57 PM
Damn man now I'm really scratching my head. I've got It all hooked up, kill switch and alp and still no spark. Did I fry the coil, what am i missing. Fuck me.

Petesgarage
12-28-2011, 1:06 AM
Hi all,
I'm building a hardtail bike with a 1200S as a donor.
Is the electricity from a 2002 ( in this topic) the same as mine (1999 model)?
i need spark, lights ,stoplight, may speedometer and the dashlights: N oil,and high/low beam.
I read that you run stock ignition, is that the stock from the S ,or do i have to change some parts?
Do you still use the dual sparkplugs?

Saltytonk
12-28-2011, 8:04 AM
I'm useing this route on my 99 1200 s. it appears to be the same wireing. I'm not finished yet, as I'm waiting on my breakers to come in. Billdozer is running all 4 plugs. just go by his diagram and you should be fine.

Petesgarage
01-14-2012, 10:40 AM
do you guys have also a bank angle sensor? when the bike falls down the engine stops running.
If you have ,do you still use it or...?
if i do a completely new wiring ,do i need to do something special for the BAS and for the kill switch that is normally on the handlebar don't use one anymore.

Saltytonk
01-14-2012, 11:03 AM
Ditch it. Its wired into the kill switch. Just kills spark to coil if it falls beyond a certain angle. Mine was located on the side of the battery box. No need for it.:D

Petesgarage
01-14-2012, 11:18 AM
i'm pulling all new wires ,so that will be fine, thx.
what is the purpose of the MAP sensor ?
do you have power loss if you don't use it or?

Saltytonk
01-14-2012, 11:26 AM
Is your bike EFI? if so you may want to look at REV's thread . http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15746

I believe the map sensor is for the EFI. I didnt have one. I did keep the VOES , which some folks dont .

Petesgarage
01-14-2012, 11:41 AM
Is your bike EFI? if so you may want to look at REV's thread . http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15746

I believe the map sensor is for the EFI. I didnt have one. I did keep the VOES , which some folks dont .


My bike is 1999 and has a cv carb ,so i don't think the MAP sensor does a great thing to it.
The VOES is the system in the petcock and stuff? i have another tank and petcock so...

NHMike
01-14-2012, 2:16 PM
but I find it hard to believe it could be that easy.

I'm trying to cut down the wires and get rid of some shit on my '92 XLH. I've pulled off the dummy lights, speedo and tach. I'm also going to be changing out the headlight so I need to get rid of the harnesses within the bucket. Once I get rid of the wires I KNOW I won't need, is it as simple as cutting off the wires from the harnesses and then slicing the same colors together?

I've been looking at the schematic, and the bike, and it seems as though that's the case, but before I go and start clipping I'd like to know.

There are some strange splices in there from PO's, like the blinker relay they wired in because, I assume, the stock one stopped working.

I'm just having a hard time imagining that it could be as simple as splicing the same colors together.

Thanks! :cheersmate:

Saltytonk
01-14-2012, 8:43 PM
Well Lance and I started just like what your talking about Mike. We took the dummy lights off first and then started hacking crap apart. We would start it after each time we cut a wire to see if she would run. And she did for awhile but........... We blew some fuses . I basically printed out Billdozers hand drawn diagram and and figured out which wires were essential and sat down in front of the bike for HOURS until I got it back together. It really isnt hard once you wrap your mind around the basics. It just took me awhile. But now if something goes wrong electrically I will be able to fix it pretty quickly. Be patient and study. You'll be fine.

Saltytonk
01-14-2012, 8:44 PM
Yeah the VOES is the thing hooked up to the carb and tank via vacuum hoses. I'm running a tank and petcock without the vacuum lines ......but I kept it hooked up to the carb.

NHMike
01-15-2012, 12:11 AM
Well Lance and I started just like what your talking about Mike. We took the dummy lights off first and then started hacking crap apart. We would start it after each time we cut a wire to see if she would run. And she did for awhile but........... We blew some fuses . I basically printed out Billdozers hand drawn diagram and and figured out which wires were essential and sat down in front of the bike for HOURS until I got it back together. It really isnt hard once you wrap your mind around the basics. It just took me awhile. But now if something goes wrong electrically I will be able to fix it pretty quickly. Be patient and study. You'll be fine.

Thanks man. I'm going to break into it next week when I can take a day off from work and start this, AND finish it in one day...I hope.

miggidy85
01-15-2012, 1:20 AM
No help here at all, but my points shovel is a breeze to wire up. ;)

VonMisfit
01-15-2012, 4:24 AM
how/ how hard would it be to keep the stock speedo? could i make a new harness for the bike and wire it in?
02 883 sporty

Saltytonk
01-15-2012, 8:55 AM
I'm sure you could. The way mine was all the idiot lights were wired into the speedo/tach. I assume yours would be too. not sure on the internal wiring on the speedo tho. I bet it can be done.

NHMike
01-18-2012, 12:25 PM
I'm stumped on the ignition switch AT the controls. I'm using all stock wires, I've figured everything out EXCEPT the Ignition stuff.

Out of the RIGHT SIDE (Where the starter button is) I have the following:

RED - Out to Brake Light
GREY - ? (Power IN to the Emer. Stop Button??)
WHITE - ? (FROM Emer. Stop Button to WHITE on the "Main" harness going out to Coil??)
BLACK - ? (TO BLACK on MAIN Harness to Volt. Reg.??)
TAN - Out to Signal
ORANGE - Power to Brake Switch
GREEN - Power to Signal

I have the stock wiring diagram, from the manual, and just can't figure out what goes where on the harness coming FROM the back of the bike. I've clipped all of the harnesses off and these are the last of the wires I need to do. And I'm afraid the wrong connection will burn something out.

On the "MAIN" harness that comes from under the tank here's what I *think* I've figured out:

PINK - From the coil TO the Tach (Which I've deleted)
YELLOW - TO the horn FROM the switch on the bars
BLACK - ? (THINKING it might go to the Volt. Reg. as noted above)
GREY - ? (Power to Emerg. Stop Button?)
BLUE - To Taillight I think for "Running" Light
GREEN - From Oil Pressure switch to Dummy light which is deleted
WHITE - FROM white Emerg. Stop switch TO Ign. Coil
RED - To the brake light for BRAKE switch
PURPLE - To the Rear Signal (LEFT)
BROWN - To the Rear Signal (RIGHT)
ORANGE - Power FROM the Ign. Key

The ones that are BOLD are the ones I'm really worried about, I don't want to burn shit up!! LOL

HELP!!! Hahahaha, no, but seriously, HELP!!!

NHMike
01-18-2012, 12:52 PM
I've confirmed that the GREY wire supplies power TO the "Kill Switch" and that the WHITE wire runs to the coil and CUTS power to it when the Kill Switch is flipped.

NHMike
01-18-2012, 12:57 PM
After me doing away with self doubt, and a little more investigation of the diagrams, it seems as easy as splicing them together. I'll draw up and post a 92 Specific Diagram as I've wired it sometime tonight.

Saltytonk
01-18-2012, 1:12 PM
Yep. You got it . I did away with the grey wire and obviously the kill switch. But I may rewire a kill switch at my coil bracket. All that is needed is a simple toggle in the white wire supplying current to the coil. I think any way.

tattoo2303
01-18-2012, 1:49 PM
shit sorry i didnt see this before , but good on ya to figure it out!

heres one i did up
http://www.choppercreeps.blogspot.com/p/sportster-simplified-wiring.html

Petesgarage
01-23-2012, 12:18 PM
I finished the wiring of the engine following the drawing above ,but made some specific changes for my bike, startbutton ,is different...
And the bike runs again, thx to this forum :clap for you::killerjob:

Saltytonk
01-23-2012, 3:11 PM
Feels good , dont it.

Petesgarage
01-24-2012, 2:19 PM
:cheersmate:
Feels good , dont it.
ow yeah:cheersmate:

LivingCanvas
01-24-2012, 3:30 PM
Hey Bill or anyone in socal, where are you sourcing high quality automotive wire and those solderless connectors without the plastic on them? I can get the cheap wire with from autozone and the like all day, by I'd like some of the higher quality awg stuff. It lasts longer and is more flexible because it has more strands inside than the comparable cheap shit

rg916
01-24-2012, 5:08 PM
can I wire fuses instead of circuit breakers ? would it make a diffrence ?

sweetpotato650
01-24-2012, 6:44 PM
Only would make a difference of inconvenience. Breaker is nice, if something trips you just reset the breaker instead of having to replace a fuse which you may not have on you.

tattoo2303
01-24-2012, 6:48 PM
Typically breakers have a life of 1000 to 1500 cycles which unless you've done something really wrong should be plenty

There are also 2 types of breakers
Off the top of my head type one auto resets and type 2 you have to shut off the power to reset it

brooklynbomber
01-25-2012, 11:45 PM
Im going to be tacking this in the near future (YAY!) and have a question about this breaker configuration. Where are you guys putting the stock ignition module when you put the resets on that outer panel or does it fit as so?

I may get turned around a bit in my attempt at first but I am actually pretty pumped to re-do the wiring and make this bike really slick.

redbaron
01-26-2012, 12:08 AM
Hey Bill or anyone in socal, where are you sourcing high quality automotive wire and those solderless connectors without the plastic on them? I can get the cheap wire with from autozone and the like all day, by I'd like some of the higher quality awg stuff. It lasts longer and is more flexible because it has more strands inside than the comparable cheap shit

As much as I would rather not recommend this place...Fastenal can get it and you can probably talk them down on the price as well.

JohnnyWolf
02-13-2012, 10:11 PM
Can anyone point me in the direction of one of these:
http://www.choppercreeps.blogspot.com/p/sportster-simplified-wiring.html

...but for a 2005 NON EFI CARB'D ? Will the above work? My buddy just hard tailed his '05 and wants to get rid of as much as possible. No: BAS, blinkers, hi/low beam, horn etc...etc....etc. Looking to keep the bare minimum. Would he need to change his ign system to aftermarket? What all needs to be done. If there's already a thread, I couldn't find it...???

Mines a '95, I don't know dick about '04s and up.

mike1407
02-13-2012, 10:14 PM
ill p.m. u a link johnny

JohnnyWolf
02-13-2012, 10:19 PM
ill p.m. u a link johnny
Tnx man! :killerjob:

Twinkies
02-13-2012, 10:42 PM
Hey Bill or anyone in socal, where are you sourcing high quality automotive wire and those solderless connectors without the plastic on them? I can get the cheap wire with from autozone and the like all day, by I'd like some of the higher quality awg stuff. It lasts longer and is more flexible because it has more strands inside than the comparable cheap shit

at work, we use a lot of Phillips/Bee Wire and Cable stuff from the Lighthouse Inc
you can also contact a local Hi-Line rep, theyre like the snap-on of wiring stuff.
Your can also check with your local FleetPride / heavy truck place or Offroad Warehouse type places.
If you want cheap butt connectors without plastic, hit up Radio Shack.

billdozer
02-13-2012, 10:54 PM
Hey Bill or anyone in socal, where are you sourcing high quality automotive wire and those solderless connectors without the plastic on them? I can get the cheap wire with from autozone and the like all day, by I'd like some of the higher quality awg stuff. It lasts longer and is more flexible because it has more strands inside than the comparable cheap shit

There is a small family owned hardware store here in Temecula called Hank's. Not quite as good as McFadden Dale, but still awesome, especially in the land of Home Depot and Lowes. They have the connectors in small bags in the electrical isle, pretty sure they are US made too, they have a small batch feel to the packaging, etc. I gotta run down there tomorrow, I'll try to grab the manufacturer's info for you.

As Twinkies said, most off road shops have 'em. ORW by us has a pretty good selection of sealed switches, circuit breakers, etc. They probably have these too.

Anything I showed using circuit breakers could use fuses instead. I'm electrical engineer, but I don't know why anyone would choose one-shot fuses over resettable breakers. Maybe there is some good reason, but none that I know of.

As for the actual wire, I've been using the cloth stuff from Lowbrow. I doubt it is the best out there, but I like the way it looks so I use it. So far, I have three hard years with plenty of dirt and rain riding on my FXR and no failures due to wiring.

brooklynbomber
02-13-2012, 11:39 PM
There is a small family owned hardware store here in Temecula called Hank's. Not quite as good as McFadden Dale, but still awesome, especially in the land of Home Depot and Lowes. They have the connectors in small bags in the electrical isle, pretty sure they are US made too, they have a small batch feel to the packaging, etc. I gotta run down there tomorrow, I'll try to grab the manufacturer's info for you.

As Twinkies said, most off road shops have 'em. ORW by us has a pretty good selection of sealed switches, circuit breakers, etc. They probably have these too.

Anything I showed using circuit breakers could use fuses instead. I'm electrical engineer, but I don't know why anyone would choose one-shot fuses over resettable breakers. Maybe there is some good reason, but none that I know of.

As for the actual wire, I've been using the cloth stuff from Lowbrow. I doubt it is the best out there, but I like the way it looks so I use it. So far, I have three hard years with plenty of dirt and rain riding on my FXR and no failures due to wiring.

Bill, I like your approach to rewiring, just seems smart for reliability's sake. I've got a question for you about the resetable circuit breakers...

I will be running a few other items like turn signals, neutral light, kill switch (3 way position switch), remote start button, horn which will add a little to the wiring diagram you illustrated. Can you add multiple items to the back of these types of circuit breakers that you are using?
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Tyco%20Potter%20Brumfield%20Photos/W57-XB7A4A10%20SERIES.jpg

I would assume that I'd need to tie in the turn signals and other few small accessory lights I want to use to the 15 amp fuse that the headlight and tail light is hooked up to? Or would you add another separate 15amp breaker for those also hooked to the accessory terminal? What type of connectors are you using for this? Your hand drawings are great and make it simple to understand. In the end, I am not eliminating all that much but I am relocating a few things. I'd really like to simplify the harness overall and get rid of those white plastic connectors and bulk in the headlight. Thanks in advance.

P.S. - Do you have a preferred electronics website for switches, breakers, etc?

billdozer
02-14-2012, 12:09 AM
Brooklyn, I use K-4 Switches because that's what my local ORW stocks and they've been good for me. http://k-four.net/Default.aspx

I prefer the terminals on the back with screw on connections instead of push on. I put a little dab of liquid electrical tape or RTV silicone over them after buttoning them up. (Thanks Irish Rich and desert racing for that tip.)

Each circuit will only be able to handle a certain load, so you don't want a ton of stuff on one 15amp breaker. I like to use as many as I have room for. ie: a separate one for a cig lighter, one for lights, maybe even one for tail/brake and another for the headlight. All of my bikes have very little wiring so it's usually two or three. If I were doing signals, I'd put them on their own breaker and double check to see what the factory fuse size for that load was. (Did I mention I'm no electrical engineer?) If you know you have a lot of small draw stuff that you want to put on one breaker (that you know is sized for the load) I would recommend using a junction block so you don't have a bunch of wires piggy-backing off that breaker. Follow? Terminate several things that need power to the block, then run power to that in a single wire from the breaker. A lot of it depends on how much room you have to work with. One nice thing about multiples, if your tailight goes out and it's the only thing on that breaker, you only have a couple wires to chase to trouble shoot it. If you have a bunch of things tied in, figuring out what went wrong on the side of the road is more work.

Hand done illustrations for diagrams work way better with my brain, glad you like the one I did. I grew up on shitty VW's and there is an awesome book with those types of illustrations for everything on a VW, and they made more sense to me than any technical drawing ever did.

brooklynbomber
02-14-2012, 12:05 PM
@billdozer - Thanks! That makes sense for sure. Stock Sporties only have like 6 fuse blocks I think (maybe less?) so I'm sure if I ran the signals and other small idiot lights on a 15amp, it'd be good, while leaving the headlight and tail light on their own as well.

Thanks for the heads up with K4 - those screw post terminals look like the best way, they have nice stuff all together. The junction/terminal block idea makes sense, I'll see if thats what I need.

My bike is an 89 1200 for reference, can I completely eliminate those stock bulky white plastic connections that have multiple wires coming in and splitting into other directions? There is just a rats nest of wires in the headlight and would love to simplify it but dont know if thats what people are doing or is possible. Seems like from your diagram if I keep that same concept, it just uses wires going from the unit, to the fuse, to power and grounded. I'm slowly learning about wiring, so it's still alittle foreign to me still. But this thread has been super helpful already.

:cheersmate:

Saltytonk
02-14-2012, 12:53 PM
Hey Brooklyn. I got these from the maintenance dept of my day job.
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb459/LOUDNGREASY/DSC_1379.jpg

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb459/LOUDNGREASY/DSC_1377.jpg

They are a 4 way junction. I came out of the 15 amp breaker into this and then ran my headlight, tail light and brake light out of it. Wrapped it in elec tape to seal it up. But its tiny , you can fit it anywhere.

LivingCanvas
02-14-2012, 2:02 PM
Thanks a lot billdozer. I ended up finding a place up here in the high desert that carries the stuff. They are a nut n bolt warehouse, who'da thunk it...

rus
02-22-2012, 11:36 AM
Bill, 2 question for you....

can i run a neutral dummy light straight off the 'neutral signal wire' or whatever its called that comes out the tranny?

can i run an aftermarket speedo without using the stock flasher box? I'm assuming i can, but since the speedo power wires and shit come right out of it, i wasn't sure if it played some weird role. any ideas?

(this is on an 02 sporty btw)
for the millionth time, thanks for this thread.

billdozer
02-22-2012, 12:15 PM
Bill, 2 question for you....

can i run a neutral dummy light straight off the 'neutral signal wire' or whatever its called that comes out the tranny?

can i run an aftermarket speedo without using the stock flasher box? I'm assuming i can, but since the speedo power wires and shit come right out of it, i wasn't sure if it played some weird role. any ideas?

(this is on an 02 sporty btw)
for the millionth time, thanks for this thread.

Rus,

No idea on this since I've never done it but it seems like it'd be pretty easy to try it. I'd just use a test light and see if the neutral signal wire lights up, then wire it in if it does. Same with the speedo, unplug or snip the stuff you don't think you need. If it doesn't work, start plugging/patching until it does. Sorry I'm not more help, just haven't messed with these two devices.

rus
02-22-2012, 12:18 PM
no sweat. thanks for the guess.
i assumed it wouldn't be too hard, but while I'm sitting here ordering parts i figured id ask.

Saltytonk
02-22-2012, 12:51 PM
hey rus, I used this wireing method and I did run an aftermarket speedo. and you should see me at the beach (rimshot). anyway its no big deal , well I guess that depends on the speedo you go with. There are 3 wires from the sensor on top of your case , back by the starter. Splice those in and then a hot wire to power it and ground it and you should be good. I put an inline fuse in the hot wire to mine.

Not sure on the "N" light. but sounds like Bill is right .

rus
02-22-2012, 4:27 PM
i went with the same speedo you got, so we should team up and pull all the bitches.

the 3 wires that connect, are those the ones that come in the stock triangle shaped harness that plugs into the stock speedo? assuming they must be.

i could probably answer all this shit myself if my lazy ass would get my manual outa the garage.

also, this thread really needs to go into the greatest hits section.

Saltytonk
02-22-2012, 4:31 PM
Yep triangle connector thats them. And YEP ! greatest hits fo sho!

rus
02-22-2012, 5:07 PM
did you have the same problems other experienced with that speedo being way off? i can deal with doing the math in my head, I'm just hoping they're all off in roughly the same way.

Saltytonk
02-22-2012, 7:08 PM
I havent put alot miles on yet. But its pretty close in my case. maybe about 1/2 mile off over a 12 mile ride. So I would say its good enough in my case.

ajInMs
03-09-2012, 3:07 PM
Can someone tell me what the circled items are attached to the stock breakers? It's on a 96 Sportster 1200S

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1526a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/IMAG1526a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Petesgarage
03-09-2012, 3:20 PM
left one is the start relais i think, which colors are the wires from the right one?

ajInMs
03-09-2012, 3:52 PM
I canít remember off the top of my head and Iím and wonít be home for a couple of hours but hereís a few more shots from my phone that I took earlier.

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1520a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/IMAG1520a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1523a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/IMAG1523a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

ajInMs
03-09-2012, 3:57 PM
Here is one more that might help. They don't run to the ignition module connector that's loose in this one, but you can kind of see how they drop down from the breaker panel.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm trying to this do this from a blurry Haynes schematic.

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1518a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/IMAG1518a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

ajInMs
03-09-2012, 4:03 PM
I'm thinking the smaller one is the Starter Relay and the larger one is the Cam Position Timer. Can anyone confirm this?

ajInMs
03-09-2012, 6:16 PM
Alright, here's some better pics. Maybe someone can confirm what I think these are. It would be super stress relieving and helpful.

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1534.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/IMAG1534.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1531.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/IMAG1531.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

ajInMs
03-09-2012, 9:09 PM
The big one is the turn signal canceler.

brooklynbomber
03-13-2012, 8:27 AM
Can this be moved to the How To Section? This seems to be such a useful thread to so many, including myself.

shitbike
03-13-2012, 11:28 AM
Anyone have advice or info for minimum wiring for 04-06 sportys? There are at least a few rubbermount non-efi chops on here, so someone knows. I'm about to dig into mine tonight and any tips would be great. A diagram would be even better.

ajInMs
03-13-2012, 2:52 PM
Anyone have advice or info for minimum wiring for 04-06 sportys? There are at least a few rubbermount non-efi chops on here, so someone knows. I'm about to dig into mine tonight and any tips would be great. A diagram would be even better.

Here is a simplified version. I looked at the full version which is 9 pages in total and have it but it's blurry. Found this one on the interwebz though.

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=2006WiringDiagramSimplified.j pg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/2006WiringDiagramSimplified.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

shitbike
03-13-2012, 3:10 PM
Hell yeah man. This will help me out tremendously. :cheersmate:

ajInMs
03-13-2012, 4:34 PM
Hell yeah man. This will help me out tremendously. :cheersmate:

No sweat dude. Here's the stock one of the main harness page. Quality kind of sucks but it may be of some use. With all the shit going on those year bikes your probably going to want to end up getting a better quality one or score a service manual.

<a href="http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/?action=view&amp;current=2004thru2006Schematic.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g394/MotoPanic/2004thru2006Schematic.gif" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

SnakeArms
07-11-2012, 8:31 PM
Just about to wrap up this rewire on my '04 sporty (thanks Bill for the how-to) and just had a quick question.

I relocated my coil and going to move my ignition to the ground bolt on the primary side. Was wondering if there would be any ill effects from moving the 2 small ground wires from that bolt over to the negative battery ground?

It would clean it up a bit and also give me peace of mind that I wont have to check for corrosion on the bracket I made for the ignition, if I still was using it for the 2 small grounds.

Gutterrat
08-23-2012, 4:10 PM
Very informative Thanx!!!!

elcheapo
09-05-2012, 11:35 PM
Wow!!
Very helpful. - Just started cleaning up the harness on my '03 Sportster S

Mufucker
10-15-2012, 5:35 PM
Hey i was told that a bike only needs seven wires to run these all have alot more then seven so was that bull or what.

bobscogin
10-15-2012, 5:57 PM
Hey i was told that a bike only needs seven wires to run these all have alot more then seven so was that bull or what.

I have bikes that will run with no wires (magneto), some that run with 1 wire from the battery to the coil and one from the coil to the points, and one that takes about 7 miles of wire to run (an EFI Road King). So, the answer is yes, no, and maybe.

Bob

Mufucker
10-15-2012, 6:28 PM
I have bikes that will run with no wires (magneto), some that run with 1 wire from the battery to the coil and one from the coil to the points, and one that takes about 7 miles of wire to run (an EFI Road King). So, the answer is yes, no, and maybe.

Bob

hahahaha well damn i guess when i go to hardtail my bike and shit i am gonna have to study this hard

Mufucker
10-21-2012, 3:33 PM
i went to change my ugly factory headlight and i ended up haveing to do alot of rewiring cause i learned that all the damn wired wired into there that and the hilljack that had it before me used all black wires for everything talk bout a headache.

emmure
11-14-2012, 1:38 PM
im rewiring my 89 sporty and getting rid of the switch housings and swapping to toggle switchs for hi and low.i hookd up the toggle and its working as an on/off for the light and not a hi-lo switch

ajInMs
11-14-2012, 2:20 PM
Run the hot wire, orange white I believe, with the white together for low beam and the run the yellow wire to the other part I toggle for low beam. This is from memory but should be close to accurate.

Smallston
11-14-2012, 3:00 PM
Guys I'm pulling my hair out over this one, my bike is wired practically identically to this diagram but I am not getting spark. I have power going into the module and coming out of the coil, but when I push the started solenoid the bike cranks but doesn't spark. I have the cam sensor wired up to the stock cannon plug and it seems to be correct, the wires from the triangle plug on the bottom of the bike correspond to the wires going into the cannon plug at the ignition module. The other cannon plug at the ignition module has power, going to the coil, as well as two signal wires also going to the coil. The two black ground wires were retained and grounded to the frame. WHAT. THE. FUCK did I do wrong? Any ideas at this point are appreciated, I'm so close but so far right now.

Smallston
11-14-2012, 3:02 PM
Also, I am not running ANY accessories, no blinkers/horn/hand controls/speedo....NOTHING, but I have a toggle switch to wire my headlight HI/LOW/OFF and I am wiring up the stock brake light switch.

Saltytonk
11-15-2012, 10:59 AM
If youve got power comeing out of your coil ...then your plugs or wires are bad

Smallston
11-15-2012, 1:48 PM
Wires are new so I hope it's not them, I'll change the plugs out and see if that makes a difference. My buddy said it might just be a faulty ignition module that isn't sending signal to the coil regardless of it having power, any input on this?

Smallston
11-15-2012, 5:29 PM
It has spark just not when it should, if I wire up the accessory position wire coming from the switch to the breaker it sparks on contact, but nothing when the ON wire is wired from the switch to the breaker

shredzorv2
12-04-2012, 9:14 PM
Im really hoping someone will still look at this thread. I Just rewired my 1999 883 Sporty, and I have no spark.

I used this diagram. Im not sure what could be causing the lack of spark. I had 4 wires coming out of my ignition, White/BLK Pink which go to the coil, Black which I grounded, and Violet which I capped. I have no clue why Im not getting any spark. Any ideas of where to look would be much appreciated. Thanks

rus
12-05-2012, 11:34 AM
thats for an aftermarket ignition/coil. is that what you're running?

brooklynbomber
12-05-2012, 11:52 AM
Im really hoping someone will still look at this thread. I Just rewired my 1999 883 Sporty, and I have no spark.

I used this diagram. Im not sure what could be causing the lack of spark. I had 4 wires coming out of my ignition, White/BLK Pink which go to the coil, Black which I grounded, and Violet which I capped. I have no clue why Im not getting any spark. Any ideas of where to look would be much appreciated. Thanks

Did you cap your VOES?

JukeJointGypsy
12-05-2012, 12:18 PM
Unless we know the ignition type there's no way to give a correct answer. Also did you completely rewire the entire bike? meaning did you remove all wiring and then go back with new. Or did you only cut and patch certain parts of the wiring. Also is what you have in your nose cone a sensor or an actual ignition module?

1stgenxxx
01-03-2013, 7:15 AM
I'm about to wire up my 89 sportster with screaming eagle ignition and stock coil. The wire colors don't match most simplified wiring diagrams that Ive seen. Anyone have a simplified drawing for an 89 883?

Evidence
01-03-2013, 7:34 AM
I'm about to wire up my 89 sportster with screaming eagle ignition and stock coil. The wire colors don't match most simplified wiring diagrams that Ive seen. Anyone have a simplified drawing for an 89 883?

Your best bet is to take Billdozers diagram and use it as a basis for your specific bike. Find a stock wiring diagram (if you have a manual) and figure out what you need to keep, or just start over from scratch. If youre doing super basic, use the stock diagram to figure out where your Ignition Control Module wires are going, and its all downhill from there. Headlight, taillight, and all that little junk can all be followed verbatim off Bills diagram.

1stgenxxx
01-03-2013, 8:28 AM
Your best bet is to take Billdozers diagram and use it as a basis for your specific bike. Find a stock wiring diagram (if you have a manual) and figure out what you need to keep, or just start over from scratch. If youre doing super basic, use the stock diagram to figure out where your Ignition Control Module wires are going, and its all downhill from there. Headlight, taillight, and all that little junk can all be followed verbatim off Bills diagram.

Yea I'm looking at that right now. I have a single ignition module...The wiring colors are...Pink,Purple/white, White, Green,Black/White, and red.

DroppinDeuces
01-11-2013, 9:28 PM
Drink cases of BIG FLATS beer with your roomate and go after it. It takes a couple weeks longer to complete but it works. Also as soon as youre done, ride it. Especially if the oil tank is just tacked on. As soon as you see that hot girl in the sunfire, show off your mad skills. Thats when youll find yourseld hungover in this nice part of town tying your oil tank back on with your shoe strings and some dude in a range rover asking you for your number to put apes on his new triumph, while youre still stranded.

1stgenxxx
01-11-2013, 9:55 PM
Drink cases of BIG FLATS beer with your roomate and go after it. It takes a couple weeks longer to complete but it works. Also as soon as youre done, ride it. Especially if the oil tank is just tacked on. As soon as you see that hot girl in the sunfire, show off your mad skills. Thats when youll find yourseld hungover in this nice part of town tying your oil tank back on with your shoe strings and some dude in a range rover asking you for your number to put apes on his new triumph, while youre still stranded.


Fuck yes

lowlife32
01-13-2013, 11:38 AM
Im in the middile or rewiring an 89 sporty at the moment. I am running a car style key switch, do I still need the starter relay wired in or can I just run from the start lug of the switch directly to the starter? I have the relay wired in now, but itd be less to hide if I dont have to have it.

gonzoguilt
01-13-2013, 2:22 PM
I'm gunna lose it. I can't find any resettable curcuit breakers anywhere online, and every auto/hardware store I go to do not have em in stock. I could order some, but the closest place they'd be sent to is 2 fucking hours away!

Help....

bobbarooski
01-13-2013, 2:35 PM
go to the school bus garage in your county,ask if they have any old buses they are not gonna put on the road,they are full of those little breakers you desire

psychokat
01-13-2013, 6:29 PM
If you type 'manual reset circuit breaker' in any search engine, you should find what your'e looking for. I am in the middle of ordering my parts, also. There are cheapo breakers, or you could add 'marine grade' to your search. They are waterproof, salt proof, and corrosion resistant, but they are more expensive. Hope that is some help. And keeps you outta County for stealing breakers outta school buses!!

DGibsonOne
02-16-2013, 9:13 PM
Bill, I like your approach to rewiring, just seems smart for reliability's sake. I've got a question for you about the resetable circuit breakers...

I will be running a few other items like turn signals, neutral light, kill switch (3 way position switch), remote start button, horn which will add a little to the wiring diagram you illustrated. Can you add multiple items to the back of these types of circuit breakers that you are using?
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Tyco%20Potter%20Brumfield%20Photos/W57-XB7A4A10%20SERIES.jpg

I would assume that I'd need to tie in the turn signals and other few small accessory lights I want to use to the 15 amp fuse that the headlight and tail light is hooked up to? Or would you add another separate 15amp breaker for those also hooked to the accessory terminal? What type of connectors are you using for this? Your hand drawings are great and make it simple to understand. In the end, I am not eliminating all that much but I am relocating a few things. I'd really like to simplify the harness overall and get rid of those white plastic connectors and bulk in the headlight. Thanks in advance.

P.S. - Do you have a preferred electronics website for switches, breakers, etc?

Brooklyn, I am doing the same type of setup as your 89 build thread (Great Thread by the way!) and would love to see how you setup your wiring with the "other items" that you mention above. Maybe print out Bills hand drawn schematic and draw the additional connections on there if its not too much to ask? I am really no good at the electrical portion of the build so that would help me immensely!

bobbarooski
02-17-2013, 1:32 PM
If you type 'manual reset circuit breaker' in any search engine, you should find what your'e looking for. I am in the middle of ordering my parts, also. There are cheapo breakers, or you could add 'marine grade' to your search. They are waterproof, salt proof, and corrosion resistant, but they are more expensive. Hope that is some help. And keeps you outta County for stealing breakers outta school buses!!

I said ask.........not steal;)

precision25
02-17-2013, 1:50 PM
Im in the middile or rewiring an 89 sporty at the moment. I am running a car style key switch, do I still need the starter relay wired in or can I just run from the start lug of the switch directly to the starter? I have the relay wired in now, but itd be less to hide if I dont have to have it.
A relay is installed to help the switch from burning up. If the current draw from whatever is being energized is more than the switch can handle, a relay will absorb the current draw and protect the switch. So if your starter pulls 40 amps, but your switch is only rated for 25 amps, then you'll smoke that switch. Put a 50A continuous duty relay in and it will protect your switch. This page takes a minute to load, but it has all kinds of fun ways to wire up relays.

http://www.dlcparts.com/images/BoschGuide.pdf
http://www.tune-town.com/relays.pdf

rdrdave
03-13-2013, 10:33 PM
I picked mine up at the local marine shop. You can get the waterproof boots there also.

chris23
03-16-2013, 4:01 PM
This was really handy, just re-wired mine. Put the k-4 breakers in a panel under the seat, kept the starter relay and put a little button above the key. Dimmer on the headlight bracket.

Fun times with wires.

Ms54coupe
04-10-2013, 2:59 PM
Hey guys any direct links to the push button starter switches you used?

xbmxxx
05-04-2013, 4:46 PM
I cant find the breakers you used anywhere locally. are these the same?

http://www.amazon.com/NTE-R58-30A-Manual-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B002SR1WI2

famouschoparley
05-30-2013, 8:20 PM
im going to try this wish me luck:D

scout41
07-02-2013, 6:25 AM
I've got a question: I thought I had this handled, but I'm not getting spark. I've got the battery on charge right now, I'm stuck. :confused:
I've got a 98 sportster, here's the diagram:
http://i50.servimg.com/u/f50/11/00/68/87/1998-210.jpg

http://i50.servimg.com/u/f50/11/00/68/87/1998-110.jpg

Looking at the main circuit breaker (30A) it looks like a positive runs off the battery, through the breaker to power the reg, correct?
So I dedicated a 30A breaker to reg, then spliced a hot off the red line to power my ign. switch. No spark.
Then, I figured it was the black, since it had to be a positive running off the battery. No spark (well maybe initially, but just one stroke.)
BTW I did run both hots to a separate 30A breaker before the ign switch, I'm sure I didn't fry anything, and it did run before I tore it down.

Unless I'm missing something, do I have to run a dedicated hot off the starter relay, or the battery?

Evidence
07-02-2013, 6:43 AM
You might be having the same problem a lot of people have. What did you do with the wire on the Ignition Module that controls the Bank Angle Sensor? You have to ground that wire out, or it wont let any power be delivered to the ignition. Im assuming if you did a bare bones wiring, you got rid of the BAS?

As for your regulator, if I understand what you did you should be ok. Run a thicker gauge wire to from the battery to the regulator with a 30A in it. I ran another wire off my battery with a 30A for power to my key switch. You could technically splice into the regulator wire, but make sure you do it on the right side of the fuse.

scout41
07-02-2013, 8:33 AM
Thank you, that's got to be it. I think I left that plug attached, if not I'll just ground it. BTW is the copper side the "hot" on a breaker?
You've got it. The regulator and ignition are on separate 30A breakers, but running on the same common line. I spliced into the reg's power supply before the breaker, and tied into the ign's 30A with some thick gauge left over from the ignition switch.

Evidence
07-02-2013, 8:53 AM
Thank you, that's got to be it. I think I left that plug attached, if not I'll just ground it. BTW is the copper side the "hot" on a breaker?
You've got it. The regulator and ignition are on separate 30A breakers, but running on the same common line. I spliced into the reg's power supply before the breaker, and tied into the ign's 30A with some thick gauge left over from the ignition switch.

Im not sure about which side is hot, but if your power supply is on the right side of the fuse then you will be good to go... But the bank angle sensor gets a lot of people. I let my capped off and shrink wrapped in with the other wires hanging loose, and wasn't getting any spark. Someone told me to ground that thing out, and the bike started right up.

pedrodeleon
07-02-2013, 8:58 AM
By reg you're talking about the voltage regulator right? If so I don't think you'll get power to the ign switch from the regulator wire going to the battery. The regulator sends power back to the battery to charge it while running, the battery doesn't send power to it. So you need a second/separate wire off the battery to the ign switch. If I misunderstood you just ignore this though.

scout41
07-03-2013, 8:51 AM
Evidence: thanks for helping me out, I didn't get it started yesterday but I did get spark. I spent a couple hours dicking with it, and actually had the BAS grounded, I just gave up and went inside without testing it. Then just as I was dozing off it hit me that I probably wired it right, so I went back out and got spark! what a feeling.

what weirded me out though: does the starter ALWAYS have power running to it? I could live with that I guess. would it drain my battery? I guess some asshat could push it, but it's unlikely they'll even find the starter.
scott.

pedrodeleon
07-03-2013, 9:19 AM
There should be one heavy gauge wire (like the size of the ground wire from the battery's neg post) that bolts on to the side of the starter directly from the positive of the battery and then a smaller gauge wire from your ignition switch to the starter solenoid through the starter relay if you're using one.

Itsjustmetal
07-03-2013, 9:48 AM
I have used the ones from radio shack with great success.
Now I just have a push button directly on the starter!

scout41
07-03-2013, 1:59 PM
There should be one heavy gauge wire (like the size of the ground wire from the battery's neg post) that bolts on to the side of the starter directly from the positive of the battery and then a smaller gauge wire from your ignition switch to the starter solenoid through the starter relay if you're using one.

Not sure if I follow ya. Isn't this how it's wired all ready if I leave it stock ( I picked up a push button for the starter all ready).
scott.

Itsjustmetal
07-03-2013, 2:00 PM
One of the common questions I hear quite a bit is "How do I get rid of all the bullshit wiring on my Evo Sportster"?

It's really not rocket science, especially on earlier ones but it can be intimidating to hack up the bundle of perfectly operating wires just for the sake of getting the bare-bones aesthetic.

For this thread we are using BF Josh's 2002 Sportster "S" model with dual plug heads. Other models and years will vary, but the concept will be the same. If you asked ten people how to do it, you'd probably get twenty answers, this ain't gospel, it's just the way I did it. And it worked, has way less snarl of an unsightly harness, especially now that more of the bike is exposed with a flat bottomed tank, fiberglass tail section, etc.

On Josh's stock bike there were no fancy sensors or other "nanny" switches that needed to be looped or disabled. This may be the case on later model bikes. We ditched the VOES petcock for an old Pingle one, and capped any open vacuum connections on carb or manifold with high quality rubber caps.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858713451/" title="Factory 2002 Sporty Wiring Diagram by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2715/5858713451_fcc4f219fa_z.jpg" width="640" height="438" alt="Factory 2002 Sporty Wiring Diagram"></a>

An extremely helpful thing is a factory wiring diagram. I was lucky enough to get one from a guy in PDF form. I blew it up and printed it out onto eight pages, taped them together and hung it on the wall where I was working for reference. Once I thought I was sure about what was going where, I highlighted the wires I was keeping and you can see how many that left for the trash. I did my FXR the same way and a 90's era sporty without one and it was way easier to have a real diagram to reference.

Tools needed:

Test Light
Crimpers / wire cutters
Dialectric Grease
Heat Shrink tubing 3/16" and 1/4" and a little 1/2"
Electric heat gun
Basic hand tools for removing mechanical parts
Butt connectors
Spade connectors
Ring connectors
1,000 Zip Ties
Two-position Toggle Switch
2) 30 amp resettable circuit breakers
1) 15 amp resettable circuit breakers
Blue tape
Sharpie

Note: Remember how I said everyone does things differently? I use circuit breakers and solderless connections. Most people use solder and fuses and the factory uses auto-reset breakers. I don't care for those because I can't tell when one has popped and standing around waiting to see if one resets seems too passive. I wanna know, then I can chase the problem and try to figure out if there is a short somewhere. A lot of old desert racers swear that solder can make the wires brittle and prefer crimped type connectors (and resettable breakers, ever see the dash on an off-road race car?) Anyway, it's worked for me in the past, so why change? On the subject of solderless connections, I use the good ones, with no plastic insulation. I put a little dab of dialectric grease in each one, make sure it is crimped properly and use the smallest heat shrink possible for a tight fit. If you like solder, use it. Same with fuses, but put them somewhere you can get at on the road, not under a tank that takes twenty minutes to pull off. For switches and breakers, try to find the kind with screw-on connections, use your ring connectors in the proper size and put a dab of silicone or liquid electrical tape over the conection once you are sure everything is hooked up in the right place.

Continued...

Billdozer I have some questions for you. I'm finishing up my harness and I want to wire in the low oil light and neutral into my speedo. I can use the check engine light as it is ground activated just like the oil light. Question is how do I test it with out taking all the oil out lol.

Secondly are there any of the other indicator lights such as the key or "p" for the neutral light? Just not sure they are 12v activated or not. I assume they would be.

Thanks man
Ryan

pedrodeleon
07-03-2013, 5:42 PM
Not sure if I follow ya. Isn't this how it's wired all ready if I leave it stock ( I picked up a push button for the starter all ready).
scott.

Yeah, sorry, I thought you'd re-wired the whole thing? I may be confused with what you're wanting to do.

scout41
07-03-2013, 8:27 PM
Oh that's cool man, I appreciate the help! I just don't get why nobody's mentioned that once you put that solenoid starter button on, it's like you're halfway to hot wiring the bike. Is anyone else's like that?

baltimonster
07-07-2013, 6:34 AM
I cant find the breakers you used anywhere locally. are these the same?

http://www.amazon.com/NTE-R58-30A-Manual-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B002SR1WI2

Probably a little late, but anyone else looking for the specific breakers can find info on them here:
http://k-four.net/Product.aspx?pid=231

If you do a google search on the 15 and the 30 you can use these part numbers:
19-166-15
19-166-30

I'm buying them through sandparts.com and using those part numbers will bring you directly to the specific breakers.

Unfortunately, shipping from this site is pretty high. So, at 7.50 a pop and shipping to east coast my total for two 30amp and 1 15amp is $37.xx (might look around to find a better deal.

EDIT: mooresparts.com has them for $6 and they come out to 33.xx with shipping to east coast. I'm going to check a good electronics store tomorrow to see if they have them as I'm not too keen on 7-10 business days for shipping when it's already over $10.

Hope that helps somebody.

D

rick666
07-07-2013, 10:07 AM
So I'm having a problem with my bike, I used the diagram for the 96 sporty, the bike fired up and ran, soil left it after that, down the road I go to crank it over again but no fire this time, um getting power to the coil and its cranking over bit I'm getting zero spark from the coil, so I replace the coil and still nothing. What's the best way to determine if its my ignition module or the cam sensor?

seaking
07-19-2013, 8:45 PM
So I had this bike all running, went to finish up the rest of the bike and I had nothing. Figured charge the battery, next day, nothing. Bought an 89 starter, swapped it, nothing!

I have a solenoid button wired in, so it's either the starter or the battery. The 89 starter also has a screw out the top by the solenoid out? Dunno what the hell that is, a negative?

I'm stuck up shit creek w/o a paddle, n I really need help. I can't afford to wait another week, I've been hitting this thing hard since October! I wish I could post pics, but I have the gf,s iPhone , I'm fookign clueless. Btw I checked the grounds, the battery is new, starter is new, and I checked the bank angle sensor. Are there any other sensors that might throw a wrench In the mix?
I didn't run a relay, and pard all the wiring down according to this thread. It was running up until I fucked around with it n left the key on? I really have no idea. I'd love some input on it!
Scott.

demliag
09-13-2013, 11:56 AM
and a hand drawn one I made:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdozer/5858670713/" title="2002_Sporty_Diagram_Reduced by Biltwell Inc., on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5106/5858670713_94236b43fb_z.jpg" width="549" height="640" alt="2002_Sporty_Diagram_Reduced"></a>

That's all for tonight, I'll do the ignition switch and lights tomorrow after I proof this stuff to make sure I've got it right for ya.

I have a quick question about Billdozer's hand drawn diagram. Couldn't both the ignition switch and voltage regulator be run off the same 30A circuit breaker? The original wiring has both these running off the 30A main fuse. Just trying to figure out if there is a specific reason for having two 30A breakers instead of one. Also, shouldn't there be a 15A circuit breaker between the ignition switch and coil like in the factory wiring? Getting ready to pare down the wiring on my 99 XLH1200 and want to make sure I have everything in order.

seaking
09-13-2013, 2:14 PM
(Since this thread is a fucking cricket fest, I'm gonna chime in)

^^^^^^^^^^^^If I recall, there's all ready a stock dedicated automatic circuit breaker on the regulator. I'm guessing that the MOCO intended to keep these two circuits isolated from each other to prevent short circuiting the regulator.

So basically if you pulled all your shit out from behind the cover, you'd have the 30A fuse for your ignition circuit, then (I forget where) there's a 30A auto-breaker with a heavier gauge red and black only on that breaker that ties into the regulator. Hence the two 30A breakers.

I'd also assume that since both the IGN and REG are higher guage wires, they would both draw excessive amperage, you'd blow your breaker I'm sure.

BTW, oreilly's sells 30A auto breakers, I have had zero trouble with those. I bought my pushbutton 15A at marina supply, but I think oreilly's had them.

seaking
09-13-2013, 2:19 PM
OH and I'm not running a 15A breaker to the coil, I guess if it doesn't exceed 30A it's ok? If you wanna be on the safe side it's probably not a bad idea, you could always just bypass it if it keeps popping the breaker.

BocaJRS
09-22-2013, 3:21 PM
I rewired my 89 sporty. The lights work but it does not start. I followed the diagram and it won't start now. I used these little guys as a start and kill switch http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3700070.

I think I did something wrong but can't figure it out. If I touch the wire from the starter button th battery it turns over and starts but if once everything is connected nothing....

The lights still work. No power loss. New Battery, checked the Stator.

There is no oil pressure light, neutral, turn signals or horn. I kept the breakers but replaced them.

The last pic I am a little unsure.

<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172252_zps22f7ee9a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172252_zps22f7ee9a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172252_zps22f7ee9a.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg"/></a>

BrokenSprocketGarage
09-22-2013, 3:39 PM
I rewired my 89 sporty. The lights work but it does not start. I followed the diagram and it won't start now. I used these little guys as a start and kill switch http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3700070.

I think I did something wrong but can't figure it out. If I touch the wire from the starter button th battery it turns over and starts but if once everything is connected nothing....

The lights still work. No power loss. New Battery, checked the Stator.

I am taking pictures and will be posting in a few.

http://<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg"/></a>

http://<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172334_zps119adaa3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172334_zps119adaa3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172334_zps119adaa3.jpg"/></a>

http://<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg"/></a>

Sounds like you have no power to your start switch.

BocaJRS
09-22-2013, 3:50 PM
Thanks. Now do I wire a wire straight to that from the copper pole on breaker or the other one from the main breaker? Or straight from the battery?

Lazaruscycleworks
10-15-2013, 6:51 PM
rewiring an 06 rubbermount sportster ive got it all back together and it sparks for the first ten seconds of starting the bike then the spark gives out. Does it sound like the security system is armed? If anyone can help that would be great.

heyheyhey
05-08-2014, 7:17 PM
So I rewired my bike with minimal wiring, but now I'm wondering how I should route the wiring to the headlight, ignition switch, voes, and coil? I just zip tied it under the top tube with some wiring loom, but it looks kinda dumb. Has anybody routed wiring through their top tube?

McGrizzle
05-09-2014, 3:58 AM
I rewired my 89 sporty. The lights work but it does not start. I followed the diagram and it won't start now. I used these little guys as a start and kill switch http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3700070.

I think I did something wrong but can't figure it out. If I touch the wire from the starter button th battery it turns over and starts but if once everything is connected nothing....

The lights still work. No power loss. New Battery, checked the Stator.
There is no oil pressure light, neutral, turn signals or horn. I kept the breakers but replaced them.

The last pic I am a little unsure.

<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172342_zps98822501.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172252_zps22f7ee9a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172252_zps22f7ee9a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172252_zps22f7ee9a.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/ebarbon/media/Bike/20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae190/ebarbon/Bike/20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130922_172221_zps2c6cf0f7.jpg"/></a>
I could be wrong but that cam position sensor looks like it might have been fried. The potting is melted.

hillakilla
05-09-2014, 8:03 AM
So I rewired my bike with minimal wiring, but now I'm wondering how I should route the wiring to the headlight, ignition switch, voes, and coil? I just zip tied it under the top tube with some wiring loom, but it looks kinda dumb. Has anybody routed wiring through their top tube?
my down-sized wiring fits up under my tank. I wrapped it to be "flatter", more like beef jerky than a hotdog.

tattoo2303
06-16-2014, 11:22 PM
just need a quick verification, the voltage regulator has 3 wires 2 of which are part of a plug that traces back into the primary (stator) and the 3rd is much longer and has a female spade connector, is this lone wire a ground??

Saltytonk
06-17-2014, 7:12 AM
just need a quick verification, the voltage regulator has 3 wires 2 of which are part of a plug that traces back into the primary (stator) and the 3rd is much longer and has a female spade connector, is this lone wire a ground??

No , not a ground. It should run to the battery or to a breaker then the battery. The regulator itself is grounded to frame.

TB
06-17-2014, 10:20 AM
I think one is to ground (engine case) and the other hot to the battery, usually off the starter stud.

CoryAlexander
06-17-2014, 9:18 PM
Can I use this as a guide for a efi to carb conversion using a thunder heart as the ignition modue?

cabbott12321
07-30-2014, 12:02 PM
I'm trying to eliminate dummy lights, speedo, and signals on my 98 1200. I ditched the stock handle bar controls, added got one of those marine switches with the solenoid and everything so that I don't need a push button, ditched the dummy lights and the speedo. I originally wanted to keep my signals and was just going to put in my own switches and new smaller lights but after I did everything and the bike didn't start I decided to ditch the signals all together for now and worry about them later if I decide I want them. Anyway, during the wiring process, because I don't know a ton about bike wiring, I decided to test it before I finished it up. I turned the key it started, ran for a minute, then died. At the time I didn't have a throttle hooked up so I attributed its quick death to that and kept on wiring. Finished up went to start and it didn't start. Now I've pulled everything back and between what I see on my bike and the wiring diagram I'm very lost.
Things that confuse me:
-I have a green wire coming from the main harness that looks like it was once connected to a white/black wire. Pretty sure the green comes from the starter relay and the white/black goes into the main harness and I haven't been able to trace where it goes but it does look like it was once soldered to the green wire.
-There's a second white/black wire coming form the main harness, on the diagram the white wire connects to the solenoid that's only on CA models, I don't think I have a CA model considering I'm in MA. This second white/black wire splits of a couple times and I know it's supposed to connect to my coils.
-Essentially the amount of white/black wires is whats stumping me, along with the fact I started the bike once mid process, then somewhere in connecting new switches etc, I blew the ignition and accessory fuses and it won't start.

I know these answers are all over chopcult so if someone has link that answers this stuff that'd be great, if not some advice would be great. Should I just pull the whole harness out and start from scratch? I don't know what to do. Teaching myself seems only take me so far. I need some guidence.

garcia2389
02-22-2015, 7:42 PM
I know this is an old thread and might not get any answers but figured I'd try. I am completely redoing my wire harness on my 95 sporty based off of the hand drawn one, if I eliminate my VOES and cap the vacuum line, will I have performance problems under hard acceleration? Will this affect starting/idle at all?

Also just noticed on the stock wiring diagram one of the wires from the ign coil goes to the tachometer, If I run my setup according to Billdozer's than my coil will only have the main power and cam sensor going to it... will this cause issues?

detour380
03-23-2015, 8:46 AM
i know this is an older post but what the hell. i am currently balls deep in my first custom build. 97 XLH1200c in a rigid frame, springer front end. wasnt sure if the hand drawn would work for my 97? and if not any leads on a link that has a super simple stripped down wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated!

Saltytonk
03-23-2015, 11:58 AM
i know this is an older post but what the hell. i am currently balls deep in my first custom build. 97 XLH1200c in a rigid frame, springer front end. wasnt sure if the hand drawn would work for my 97? and if not any leads on a link that has a super simple stripped down wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated!


should work.

detour380
04-04-2015, 7:01 AM
i know this is an old post but what the hell, wanting to do this on my 97 xl1200c. the hand drawn should work correct? any tips are greatly appreciated as this is my first build

detour380
04-11-2015, 4:20 PM
awesome. thanks Saltytonk!

bludweiser
05-03-2015, 2:31 PM
One thing to remember, if you're ditching your control pods but keeping your front brake you'll have to do some extra work to add a switch in if you want the tail light to light up when you pull your brake lever

johngeorge
06-25-2015, 6:12 PM
Okay so I'm a noob here but wanted tie say this k's for the information for sure took me about 7 hours give or take all went well. Although I did leave the MAP sensor in on my 99 sportster 1200S.

Happy to have all the wires and mess gone for good anyway the diagram was solid and that's what I went with.

heyheyhey
09-11-2015, 8:00 PM
I have a hardtail project that I'm working on, and I'm not sure where to put the circuit breakers or the ignition control module. Do you guys have any good ideas for where to hide your electronics?

jsaz666
10-23-2015, 6:32 PM
If a guy needed to keep his turn signals, what would you use for a switch? I want to do this on my softail, but I have to keep them. Planning on running the switches onto the dash.....

7and7is
10-24-2015, 7:04 AM
If you are still using your "signal module" (for lack of a better word) i would think any kind of "momentary on" switch would work, they make a "momentary on/off/momentary on" you can get away with one switch, check the link.

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PC&Product_Code=k4s13-103&Category_Code=k-four

jmattsen
11-05-2015, 6:13 AM
is there anywhere i can buy OEM electrical connectors so i dont have to chop anything?

TurnerR
11-05-2015, 9:56 AM
is there anywhere i can buy OEM electrical connectors so i dont have to chop anything?

Amazon. My dealer has them too.

2-pin
http://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-2-pin-Connector-housing-Terminals/dp/B00B4F9EXY

4-pin
http://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-4-pin-Connector-housing-Terminals/dp/B00B4FCQCK/ref=pd_sim_263_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41ptr1I-ZPL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1J40FYYXZC1SNGP8MJ29

jmattsen
11-06-2015, 12:21 AM
hell yeah, thanks

jmattsen
12-09-2015, 2:31 AM
here is what i came up with for my 95 sporty. feel free to use it or tell me where its fucked up

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w137/buffaloclone/76F864D2-E180-46B1-825A-5EC621389EAD_zpsuzknacrm.jpg (http://s175.photobucket.com/user/buffaloclone/media/76F864D2-E180-46B1-825A-5EC621389EAD_zpsuzknacrm.jpg.html)

Dragstews
12-09-2015, 3:30 AM
These Guys got it going on ......

http://wire-plus.com/

tnichoson
01-02-2016, 10:25 AM
Hi I'm doing a full rewrite on a 2002 1200 and I'm using a few pieces out of the stoc harness (for the starter) and my manual doesn't go into color code detail if anyone could direct me as to which color slices into the power, ground, and and which color goes right to the ignition. I'm using a 2 circuit breaker diagram I got off the clock forum thank you in advance

tnichoson
01-02-2016, 10:27 AM
sorry xl forum

Rothbart
02-23-2016, 8:21 PM
Can anyone tell me what year the 'bank angle sensor' was introduced to the Sportster? I have a 95 harness that I'm about to clean up and don't see it on my wiring diagram. I'm just checking everything out just to make sure I'm not gonna screw this thing up. I have a read all 10 pages of this thread but my have a few more questions. I'm hopping to God that that 95 hand drawn diagram above is right. I'm building a hard tail and I thought about just welding up a box under the seat and stuffing all that wiring and control boxes in there and just extending all some for the headlamp, coils and such but that would be cheating. Here's a pic of my bike just cause. 67376

Rothbart
02-26-2016, 5:10 PM
here is what i came up with for my 95 sporty. feel free to use it or tell me where its fucked up

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w137/buffaloclone/76F864D2-E180-46B1-825A-5EC621389EAD_zpsuzknacrm.jpg (http://s175.photobucket.com/user/buffaloclone/media/76F864D2-E180-46B1-825A-5EC621389EAD_zpsuzknacrm.jpg.html)

I've been trying to get this wired up for the last few days but I keep blowing fuse 5. Anyone else have good results with this diagram yet? Not trying to ask a million questions here or rack anyone's brain too hard. Just want to know if this is gonna work or not the way it's laid out in this diagram.

Fruttolo
06-11-2016, 5:29 AM
Hi guys, I need a little explaination, on my 2000 sporty can I just ditch the manifold pressure sensor and bridge the two cables together, or is it a signal that the modules need in order to work properly? Thanks

7and7is
06-12-2016, 5:54 PM
Hi guys, I need a little explaination, on my 2000 sporty can I just ditch the manifold pressure sensor and bridge the two cables together, or is it a signal that the modules need in order to work properly? Thanks

When you say "manifold pressure sensor" are you talking about the vacuum line running from your carb to the VOES? If so click the link.
http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html

Fruttolo
06-12-2016, 11:42 PM
When you say "manifold pressure sensor" are you talking about the vacuum line running from your carb to the VOES? If so click the link.
http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html

Yep was talking about the VOES itself
Thanks for the link, very well explained, now I just don't get how people make their engines run good with no VOES :/

jmattsen
06-15-2016, 11:24 PM
Are there any minimum ratings for replacement bar controls? I have two 2-position toggles for the dimmer and kill switch and a momentary switch for the starter button. The momentary switch is only rated at 3A or 1.5A..... That's not high enough right?

And wear do people get the turnkey ignitions for bikes?

Borntwolose
08-10-2016, 6:49 PM
Billdozer, I noticed your wiring diagram spliced into the coil power from ignition do you or any one know would I splice into my pink wire or grey on a 1999 1200 sportster stock ignition control module/ coil? Any help would be great thanks

joe78
08-17-2016, 8:53 PM
Pretty sure grey wire

nickey
09-16-2016, 3:07 AM
Huge thanks to billdozer and all for this thread. It was invaluable when I redid my sportys wiring this past weekend. I didn't follow the exact setup described but it helped. Along with the stock wiring diagram it made the task doable.

Managed to get complete harness out without cutting anything and reused stock wires to wire up just what I needed. Really cleaned up my bars!

http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/ac127/nggarrett/5F4FA4B2-E913-4424-9E6F-BD6F7B2695CD.jpg (http://s892.photobucket.com/user/nggarrett/media/5F4FA4B2-E913-4424-9E6F-BD6F7B2695CD.jpg.html)

12bee
10-06-2016, 6:12 PM
sorry the little plug in clip on the starter is that a ground

ruperto36
10-06-2016, 7:48 PM
Have a new to me 1999 883 that I'm stripping down with some serious f^%$ed up wiring. Can someone tell me what this is. Triangle connector and goes all the way to the left of the sprocket and is bolted in7232172322 The 2nd picture shows where it connects with an allen bolt. It appears to have a red, black and white wire. I can find that combo in my wiring diagrams

bobscogin
10-06-2016, 8:00 PM
Have a new to me 1999 883 that I'm stripping down with some serious f^%$ed up wiring. Can someone tell me what this is. Triangle connector and goes all the way to the left of the sprocket and is bolted in

I don't have a wiring diagram handy, but maybe electronic speedo sensor.

Bob

nickey
10-07-2016, 1:47 AM
Yea I'm pretty sure it's speedo wires

nickey
10-07-2016, 1:48 AM
sorry the little plug in clip on the starter is that a ground
What clip are you referring to? Have a pic?

ruperto36
10-07-2016, 7:45 AM
Thanks Bob and Nicky that was it.

scootntoot
02-08-2017, 9:18 PM
hey i am in a similar boat, figured it is timing related but not sure. did you ever resolve this?

CarbFarts
10-15-2017, 9:37 PM
Figured I would post here rather than making a new thread, I'm helping a buddy work on his 2000 sportster and cleaning up the harness for a minimal amount of wiring. Headlamp, brake light, ignition, etc. but with the VEOS as well as he is afraid of it causing issues if it's removed. So we got it all back together this evening, bike turns over, all lights work, but now we're not getting spark. We removed the TSM, but other than that the only other wires were for turns, speedo, dummy lights, etc. Anything you guys think we may have missed in the process or common things to check while reconnecting the harness that may be causing the issue? Thanks.

afraziaaaa
10-26-2017, 12:22 PM
Figured I would post here rather than making a new thread, I'm helping a buddy work on his 2000 sportster and cleaning up the harness for a minimal amount of wiring. Headlamp, brake light, ignition, etc. but with the VEOS as well as he is afraid of it causing issues if it's removed. So we got it all back together this evening, bike turns over, all lights work, but now we're not getting spark. We removed the TSM, but other than that the only other wires were for turns, speedo, dummy lights, etc. Anything you guys think we may have missed in the process or common things to check while reconnecting the harness that may be causing the issue? Thanks.

Did you ground the white and green wire coming out of the ignition module?

ChopperChrash
11-29-2017, 10:31 AM
On my 93 I removed everything electrical (with the exception of a new brake light switch and an old swap meet chopper headlight) and ASSUMED all I needed from the front of that harness was the white wire going to the start button and I would just run it to the new start button location. After reading this thread over and over I guess that won't work. When I replaced the seat and battery I noticed about 2.4billion wires had been spliced into the end of the harness and there are no plugs resembling the black and grey ones posted in this thread. Instead all of these new spliced wires are the same color and bundled up in 2 balls of melted electrical tape shoved under the seat. Im about to light this ting on fire and walk away.

ChopperChrash
11-29-2017, 11:53 AM
I decided to let the mess under the seat go until I eliminate everything unused. I cut open the harness and noted each wire separating them into "GO" (wires to eliminate), "STAY" (wires to coil), and "STAY" (wires to carb etc.). Hopefully I can find a wiring diagram with the colors listed telling me exactly what all these wires are.

GO: 1.) white / purple tracer =
2.) white / brown tracer =
3.) green =
4.) tan =
5.) orange =
6.) red =
7.) grey =
8.) black / red tracer =
9.) white / green tracer =
10.) purple =
11.) blue =
12.) brown =
80087

ChopperChrash
11-29-2017, 11:59 AM
Stay:
1.) pink > run to coil then headlight
2.) white > run to coil then headlight
3.) black (goes into coil and then out to headlight as yellow)
80088


STAY:
1.) green
2.) red
3.) white
4.) purple / white tracer (appears to go to carb)
5.) black / red tracer (goes to empty plug)
80089

ChopperChrash
11-29-2017, 12:01 PM
Here's all 3 of my sectioned wire runs for reference 80090

afraziaaaa
11-30-2017, 3:34 PM
Before you cut anything out, find a harley davidson manual. It depicts the colors of each wire and breaks them down into individual circuits. I think (not 100%) that pre-94 sportys were wired a bit differently than the one used as an example in this thread.

Not sure what you mean by wires to carb...?

ChopperChrash
11-30-2017, 4:48 PM
Before you cut anything out, find a harley davidson manual. It depicts the colors of each wire and breaks them down into individual circuits. I think (not 100%) that pre-94 sportys were wired a bit differently than the one used as an example in this thread.

Not sure what you mean by wires to carb...?

Thanks for the reply. Im still on the hunt for a legible diagram with wire colors for a 93 (some of my issue trying to read a lot of them may be my laptop zoom clarity). I got wrapped up today. The wire to the carb is actually to the voes. Sorry if I was unclear about that one. Those wires were on my list of wires to keep anyhow. I'm gonna keep digging for a good wiring diagram

afraziaaaa
11-30-2017, 5:31 PM
Thanks for the reply. Im still on the hunt for a legible diagram with wire colors for a 93 (some of my issue trying to read a lot of them may be my laptop zoom clarity). I got wrapped up today. The wire to the carb is actually to the voes. Sorry if I was unclear about that one. Those wires were on my list of wires to keep anyhow. I'm gonna keep digging for a good wiring diagram

Best $70 bucks you'll ever invest in your bike.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davidson-1993-1994-XLH-Sportster-Models-Service-Manual-P-N-99484-94/222609119443?hash=item33d48998d3:g:XysAAOSw~vpaAUo 3&vxp=mtr

You have the bike running now?

ChopperChrash
11-30-2017, 10:13 PM
No. It was running when I got it but needed a lot of cosmetic work. I pulled it all apart and some of the connections had rotted and some of the wires are just twisted together with no insulation. After I pulled it apart and started putting it all back together I got really sick and wound up in the hospital. It's been over a month now so I don't remember what was what

FXDS1340
02-05-2018, 9:57 PM
97 XL1200 here. Planning on stripping the stock harness out of the bike completely, keeping deutsch connectors, and starting from scratch with a simplified diagram attached in this post. I am terrible at electrical work, but it really boils down to experience with me... just haven't done it a lot. How crazy am I? Stock harness is modified and a mess BTW.

81517

EDIT: Should add that I have an SE ignition module that I'd like to keep, as well as VOES, and will be running a twintec. Anything I need to add to this diagram to make the rest work? Ignition and VOES should be a separate circuit from the basics.

Mandirt
06-04-2018, 9:26 AM
Finished my '92 XLH this weekend. There were some minor differences in the ignition module wiring, and I ended up keeping the Voes, but all in all, took it apart and put it all back together pretty much exactly like the original post. Thanks so much!

84466

boneseauc
07-06-2018, 10:56 AM
First off, this thread is great. Answered a LOT of the questions I had, and cleared up some misinformation out there (specifically what to do with the bank angle sensor wire coming out of the ignition: ground it).

I do have a question I didn't see on here though: the wiring diagram calls out a butterfly valve solenoid, but notes that it is only on CA models.

From what I can tell, the connector for this is built into the stock harness. There are two green wires coming out of the starter relay. One goes to the starter motor, and the other goes to what I'm assuming is the connector for the butterfly valve solenoid.

My guess is that harley threw the butterfly valve solenoid connector on all the sportsters they produced, and just left it unplugged on non-CA models. Can anyone verify this? Do I need to ground that green wire coming out of the starter relay, or can I just snip it and cap it?

CodyPaycheck
09-24-2018, 6:04 PM
What is everyone running for hand controls? I need to ditch the stock controls with the buttons for just the basics and a whiskey throttle. Is there a good pair, clutch lever and master cylinder that isn't $300+ ?